NAVY MIL-C-29124 D-1988 COAT WOMAN-S BLUE DRESS《女式夏季蓝色制服》.pdf

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1、MIL-C-29 124D(NU) 8 January 1988 SUPERSEDING MIL-C-29124C( NU) 1 October 1982 MILITARY SPECIFICATION COAT, WOMANS, BLUE, DRESS This specification is approved for use by the Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, Department of the Navy, and is available .for use by all Departments and Agencies

2、of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE O I 1 I l l l l 1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for a blue single breasted dress coat fabricated from a 10 ounce polyester/wool fabric. 1.2 Classification. The coat shall be of one type only and in the following sizes and lengths as specif

3、ied (see 6.2): Sizes : 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 18, 20 and 22 Lengths: Short, Regular, and Long 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 Government documents. 2.1.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this specification to

4、 the extent specified herein, Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto, cited i n the s 01 i ci t at i on. Beneficial comments (recommendations, addi

5、tions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Officer in Charge, Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, 21 Strathmore Road, Natick, MA O760-2490 by using the self-addressed Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form

6、1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. mc N/A FSC 8410 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release, distribution is un1 imi t ed . A THIS DOCUMENT CONTAINS 37 PAGES. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-SPECIFI

7、CATIONS FEDERAL V-T-276 V-T-280 V-T-295 V-T-301 NN-P-7 1 DDD-L-20 DDD-T-8 6 - Thread, Cotton - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole - Thread, Nylon - Thread, Silk - Pallet, Material Handling , Wood, Stringer - Label, For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General - Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose (

8、Unbleached, Construction, 2-Way and 4-Way (Partial) Use) Bleached or Dyed) *MILITARY MIL-C-2 97 MIL-C-368 MIL-B-371 MIL-B-3461 MIL-P-15011 MIL-P-15064 MIL-C-150 65 MIL-B-17757 MIL-(2-21115 MIL-T-4 3548 MIL-C-43718 MIL-C-44121 MIL-C-44192 ,MIL-C-16375 STAN DARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-751 *MI LI TARY . MIL-

9、STD-105 - MIL-STD-I29 - MIL-STD-147 - MIL-STD-160 8 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Marking for Shipment and Storage Pal 1 et i zed Uni t Loads Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Coats, Attributes Womens, Dress - Cloth, Interlining, Cotton Warp and Spun Hair Wool - Cloth, Satin,

10、 Rayon and Cloth, Twill, Rayon - Braid, Textile, Tubular - Button, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Cap - Pallet, Material Handling, Wood, Post Construction, - Pads, Shoulder and Sleeve-head - Coat Fronts - Cloth, Wigan, Cotton - Box, Chipping, Fiberboard (Modular Sizes) - Cloth, Tropical, Wool, Polyest

11、er/Wool - Thread, Polyester, Cotton Covered and Rayon Covered - Cloth, Twill, Polyester, Polyester and Cotton, - Cloth, Twill, Polyester - Container, Shipping and Storage, Coat (Hanger Pack) Fi 11 ing 4-Way Entry Polyester and Rayon - Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings (Copies of specifications, standa

12、rds, drawings, and publications required by contractors in connection with specific procurement functions should be obtained from the procuring activity or as directed by the contracting officer .) 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-I

13、l l I I l I t I l I 1 l I I l l l i i I l t I I 1 i I t 1 i i I I I MIL-C-29124D 2.1.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise speci

14、fied, the issues shall be those in effect on the date of the solicitation. LAWS AND REGULATIONS U.S. POSTAL SERVICE HANUAL (Copies of the manual may be obtained from the Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402). F . * 2.2 Other publications. The following d

15、ocument(s) form a part of this D issue of the DODISS specified in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DOD adopted shall be those listed in the specified, the issues of documents not listed

16、in the DODISS shall be the issue of the nongovernment documents which is current on the date of the solicitation. NATIONAL MOTOR FREIGHT TRAFFIC ASSOCIATION, INC., AGENT National Motor Freight Classification (Applications for copies should be addressed to the American Trucking Association, ATTN: Tra

17、ffic Department, 1616 P Street, N.W., Washington, DC 20036). UNIFORM CLASSIFICATION COER-fITTEE, AGENT Uni f om Freight Classification (Applications for copies should be addressed to the Uniform Classification Committee, Room 1106, 222 South Riverside Plaza, Chicago, Illinois 60606). DEPARTMENT OF D

18、EFENSE STANDARD COLOR CARD OF OFFICIAL STANDARDIZED SHADES FOR SEWING THREADS (Applications for copies may be obtained from the Color Association of the United States, Inc., 343 Lexington Avenue, New York, NY 10016). * 2.3 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this spec

19、ification and the references cited herein. the text of this specification shall take precedence. Nothing in this specification, however , shall supersede applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1 Guide sample. Samples, when furnished, are sole

20、ly for- guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variations from this Specification may appear in the sample in which case this specification shall govern. 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-2 9 12 4D 3.2 First artic

21、le. When specified, the contractor shall furnish sample unit(s) for first article inspection and approval (see 4.3 and 6.2). 3.3 Material, 3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material for the coat shall be a 10 ounce polyester/wool blend tropical in shade Blue 3346, conforming to type III, class 3 of MI

22、L-C-21115. The piece number for the standard sample is 4001369. * 3.3,2 Lining. The material for lining the body and sleeves shall be a rayon twill, 3.7 ounce, shade Black 3202, conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-368. The piece number for the standard sample is 79221. As an alternate, the lining may be

23、polyester twill cloth, black 3202, conforming to MIL-C-44121. The piece number for the standard sample is 87034. 3.3.3 Coat front. The coat fronts shall conform to type XVI of MIL-C-15065. 3.3.4 Collar interlining. The material for interlining the collar shall conform to type III, class 1 or 2 of MI

24、L-C-297. 3.3.5 Wigan, The material for interlining the hem of the sleeves shall be cotton wigan, natural shade, conforming to type I of MIL-C-16375. * 3.3.6 Shoulder and sleeve-head pads. The shoulder pads shall conform to type III, class 1 and the sleeve-head pads shall conform to type IV of MIL-P-

25、15064, except that the length shall be 12 to 13 inches. 3.3.7 Tapes. * 3.3.7,l Woven tape. The tape for staying the coat shall be preshrunk cotton, dyed or undyed, conforming to type I and II, and class 1, 2, or 3 of DDD-T-86. The types and widths,of the tapes shall be as follows: Type I - 518 inch

26、wide stay for bridle at breakline of lapel Type II - 3/16 inch wide stay for staying armholes 3.3.7.2 Cross-cut tape. The tape for staying the front gorge, back neck, lapel, front, and bottom edges shall be dyed or undyed twill cloth conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-43718. The tape shall be cut across

27、 the width of the cloth in strips 112 (+ 1/16) inch wide. The raw edges of the cross-cut tape shall be treated with a synthetic resin to prevent ravelling (see 4.4.1). 3.3.7.3 Tape fusible. As an alternate to 3.3.7.2, the tape for joining the fronts and facing shall be a natural color woven or non-w

28、oven tape with a thermoplastic polyamide resin. The tape shall be 518 inch wide (see 4.4.1). 3.3,8 Hanger loop, The hanger loop shall be cotton tubular braid conforming to type III, class 1 of MIL-B-371, or shall be of the material specified in 3.3.2. The braid shall be dyed black and show good fast

29、ness to crocking and wet-dry cleaning (see 4.4.1). 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-29124D 4 = 7777906 037b74 3 ElIL-C-29124D * 3.3.9.1 Covered polyester thread. The thread used for seaming and stitching shall be dyed shade Bla

30、ck AA, Cable No. 66043 conforming to MIL-T-43548 in the following sizes except when the use of silk or nylon is indicated as an alternate in Table I. a Operation Ticket No. Pl Y Seaming, stitching and tacking of coat 50, 70 2 or 3 Overedging, blindstitching, and machine felling 70 2 or 3 Button sewi

31、ng (except automatic shank type - see 3.3.9.5) 30, 50 2 or 3 Buttonhole and bartack 30 2 or 3 sleeve-head and pads 30 (white) 2 or 3 . Tacking armhole and attaching 3.3.9.1.1 Cotton thread. As an alternate to 3.3.9.1, cotton thread, dyed black AA, Cable No. 66043 conforming to V-T-276 may be used. O

32、perat ion Type - Ticket No. Pl Y Seaming, stitching, tacking IC2 50 Overedging , blind- stitching, felling IC 2 70 But ton sewing IA3 or IB3 30 But ton ho 1 e and bar t a c k IC 2 30 Tacking armhole and sleeve head IA1 or IA2 30 3 2 or 3 3 3 3 3.3.9.2 Basting thread. The thread for basting and tacki

33、ng shall be a good commercial grade, bleached or unbleached cotton. As an alternate, the covered thread specified for seaming in 3.3.9.1 may be used or a soluble monofilament synthetic thread may be used only for those basting operations where the thread is required to be removed, providing the garm

34、ent is subsequently is given a treatment by a dry-cleaning agent in which the synthetic thread is soluble. When this soluble thread is used, any residue remaining on the garment after the dry-cleaning process shall be brushed off or removed. 3.3.9.3 Silk thread. The silk thread shall be dyed shade B

35、lack AA, Cable No. 66043 and shall conform to V-T-301 in the following types and sizes: Use Type Ticket No. Pl Y Machine stitching I O 3 Hand or machine felling III A, c 2 3.3.9.4 Nylon thread. Nylon threads may be used as alternates to silk threads or for the operations indicated below: 5 Provided

36、by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-29124D a. For machine blind stitching and felling - nylon thread conforming to type III, size Al1 or AA11 of V-T-295. b. For hand felling - nylon thread conforming to type IV, size A/2 or CI2 of V-T-295. C

37、. For padding lapels and collars - nylon thread conforming to type III, size O00 of V-T-295. 3.3.9.5 Automatic button sewing. If an automatic machine which sews shank buttons imitating hand sewing is used, the thread shall be nylon waxed monocord, special No. 4, having a breaking strength of 11 poun

38、ds and a minimum length per pound of 3,250 yards and shall be tested for these requirements in accordance with test methods outlined in V-T-295. 3.3.9.6 Colorfastness of threads. The dyed threads shall show colorfastness to wet-dry cleaning and light equal to or better than the standard sample when

39、tested as specified in V-T-276, V-T-295, V-T-301, and MIL-T-43548. When no standard sample is available, the dyed threads shall show good colorfastness to wet-dry cleaning and light when tested as specified in V-T-276, V-T-295, V-T-301, and MIL-T-43548. 3.3.10 Gimp, The gimp for reinforcing the butt

40、onholes shall be cotton gimp buttonhole thread conforming to type I or II, size No. 8 of V-T-280. The gimp shall be dyed black. 3.3.10.1 Colorfastness. The dyed gimp shall show fastness to wet-dry cleaning equal to or better than the standard sample when tested as specified in V-T-280. When no stand

41、ard sample is available, the dyed gimp shall show good fastness to wet-dry cleaning when tested as specified in V-T-280. 3.3.11 Buttons. The silver plated oxidized finish metal buttons for the front shall be type I, style 4, class C, 35-ligne, hopper back conforming to MIL-B-3461. * 3.3.12 Label. Ea

42、ch coat shall have a combination personal/size/ - identification instruction label conforming to type VI, classes 10 and 14 of DDD-L-20. The label shall measure not more than 1-718 inches in width by 3-114 inches in length. The printing shall show fastness to dry cleaning and shall bear the followin

43、g inscription: NAME : SERVICE NO: - SIZE: 14 REGULAR (EXAMPLE) STOCK NO: 8410-00-000-0000 (EXAMPLE) COAT, WOMANS, BLUE, DRESS CONTRACT NO: DLA-100-00-0-0000 (EXAMPLE) FIBER CONTENT: 55 POLYESTER145 WOOL NAME OF CONTRACTOR: NAME OF MANUFACTURER (If other than contractor) DRY CLEAN ONLY NOTE: The leng

44、th (Short, Regular, or Long) may be abbreviated S, R, or L. 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-27224D 89 W 0b 0387bb 7 MIL-C -2 91 2 4D 3.3.13 Size ticket. Each coat shall have a commercial type size ticket attached on the outsid

45、e of the lower left sleeve. The ticket shall be 1-1/2 inches long and 2 inches high, made of a suitable plain white cardboard. The corners of the ticket may be double perfoated for ease in tacking. The size (38R - Example) shall be printed or stamped on the upper left hand corner in black or blue in

46、k. The lettering for the size shall be 1/4 inch in height. Abbreviation for length shall be allowed iln accordance with 3.3.12. 3.4 Design. The fully lined single breasted (Princess style) coat has two outside breast pocket flaps, rounded collar ends overlapping half-peaked lapels, two piece set-in

47、sleeves, and is buttoned on the left side with four silver plated Navy eagle buttons (se Figure 1). Corrosive metal fastening devices. (2) Metal devices or sew-on type markings on lining pieces. (3) Adhesive type tickets which discolor or adhere to the material upon removal of tickets. NOTE: The use

48、 of ink pad numbering machine, rubber stamp or pencil is allowed, provided the numbering does not show on the outside of the garment and wherever possible, is covered by the seam allowance. * 3.7.3 Abbreviations in table of operations. The abbreviations used in table I are as follows: Steh - in - Nd

49、 1 Bob - LPr Mchne - Brtck - Comrcl - smlr - Btnhl - incl - dbl - chnstch - - - Stitch inch Needle Bobbin Looper Machine Bartack Commercial similar Buttonhole incl udi ng double chainstitch 9 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-2 9 124D (NU) TABLE I - CONSTRUCTION OF COAT THREAD O PERATI ON STCH SEAM/ STCH NDL BOB/ NO. TYPE STCH TYPE IN LPR 1. Cutting. *a. Spread