DLA MIL-S-87056 A-1985 SHIRT WOMAN-S DRESS BLUE (LONG SLEEVE)《(长袖)蓝裙衫女用衬衫》.pdf

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1、I t I I f I t i I l l I t I I I I l i I I l l I I NIL-S-870CbA 84 m 777770b 0410541 7 m MIL-S-87056A(NU) 27 November 1985 SUPERSEDING MIL-S-87056(NU) 16 November 1978 MILITARY SPECIFICATION SHIRT, WOMANS DRESS BLUE (LONG SLEEVE) This specification is approved for use by the Navy Clothing and Textile

2、 Research Facility, Department of the Navy, and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. E s- 1. SCOPE 1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for a womans long sleeve dress shirt, made of a polyester/wool tropical material. 1.2 Classification.

3、 The shirt shall be of one type and class, and procured in the following sizes and sleeve lengths(see 6.2): Class 2 - Without shoulder epaulets Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Of

4、ficer in Charge, Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, 21 Strathmore Road, Natick, MA 01760-2490 by using the self-addressed Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. FSC 8410 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public

5、release; distribution is * unlimited. - r THIS DOCUMENT CONTAINS 37 PAGES Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-8705bA 84 77777Ob 0410542 7 W 1.2.1 Sizes. 1.2.1.1 Bust. 32, 34, 36, 38, 40 and 42. 1.2.1.2 Neck. 12, 13, 14, 15 and 16. 1

6、.2.1.3 Sleeve lengths: 29, 30, 32 and 34. 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 Government documents. 2.1.1 Specifications, standards, and. handbooks. Unless otherwise specified, the following specifications, standards, and handbooks of the issue listed in that issue of the Department of Defense Index of Spec

7、ifications and Standards (DoDISS) specified in the solicitation form a part of this specification to the extent specified. SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL NN-P-71 DDD-L-20 MILITARY MIL-P-15011 MIL-B-17143 MIL-B-17757 MIL-C-24910 MIL-T-43548 MIL-C-435% MIL-P-55010 STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-751 MILITARY MIL-ST

8、D-105 MIL-STD-129 MIL-STD-147 Pallet, Material Handling, Wood, Stringer Label; for Clothing, Equipage and Tentage (General Construction, 2 Way and 4 Way Use) Pallet, Material Handling, Wood, Post Construction, Button, Insignia (Anchor, Plastic, Black) Boxes, Shipping,Fiberboard (Modular Sizes) Cloth

9、, Tropical: Polyester/Wool Thread, Polyester, Cotton-Covered and Rayon-Covered Cloth, Interlining, Polyester Plastic, Sheet, Polyethylene Terephthalate 4 Way Entry Stitches, Seams, and Stitchngs Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes Marking for Shipment and Storage Palletized U

10、nit Load 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-I I t I I I I I I I l I I I l I I t I I I I i I I I c Ii L I L F I I I I l f MIL-S-8705bA 8q 777770b 04305q3 O (Copies of specifications, standards, drawings, and publications required by con

11、tractors in connection with specific procurement functions should be obtained from the procuring activity or as directed by the contracting officer.) 2.1.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this

12、 specification to the extent specified herein. LAWS AND REGULATIONS U. S. POSTAL SERVICE MANUAL (Copies of the Manual may be obtained from the Superintendent of Documents, U. S. Government Printing Office, Washington, D.C. 20402.) 2.2 Other publications. The following document(s) form a part of this

13、 specification to the extent specified herein. The issues of documents which are indicated as DoD adopted shall be the issue listed, in the current DoDISS and supplement thereto, if applicable. NATIONAL MOTOR FREIGHT TRAFFIC ASSOCIATION, INC., AGENT National Motor Freight Classification (Application

14、s for copies should be addressed to the American Trucking Association, ATTN: Traffic Department, 1616 P Street, N.W., Washington, DC 20036. ) UNIFORM CLASSIFICATION COMMITTEE, AGENT Uniform Freight Classification (Application for copies should be addressed to the Uniform Classification Committee, Ro

15、om 1106, 222 South Riverside Plaza, Chicago, Illinois 60606.) TiU COLOR ASSOCIATION OF THE UNITED STATES, INC. Standard Shades for Buttons - 1966 Standard Shades for Threads - 1968 (Application for copies of color cards should be addressed to The Color Association of the U.S., 24 E. 38th Street, New

16、 York, NY 10016.) 2.3 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this specification and the references cited herein, the text of this specification shall take precedence. 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-flIL

17、-S-8705bA B4 W 7797706 04105Li4 2 W MIL-S-87056A( NU) 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1 Guide sample. Samples, when furnished, are solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variations from , polyester. The material to be used for interlining the collarband, collar, pocket flaps, and cuffs s

18、hall be a polyester interlining conforming to MIL-C-43594. The color shall be Black. 3.3.6 Collar stay. The collar stay shall be of the special slotted type and shall be made from polyethylene terephthalate plastic sheet conforming to MIL-P-55010, except the thickness shall be 0.009 + 0.0015 inch, t

19、he color shall be natural (clear or opaque) and the transparency and optical properties shall not apply. The stay shall measure not less than 1/4 inch or more than 3/8 inch wide and 2 1/8 to 2 3/4 inches in length when tested as specified in 4.4.1. Both ends shall be round, pointed, cut on an angle

20、or any combination thereof. When other than round, points shall be rounded. The slotted portion shall be especially designed to accommodate collar insignia (see 6.4). The slot shall be towards the collar point in the finished shirt. i 9- * 3.4 Design. The long sleeve shirt shall be of a two-piece pr

21、incess style front and a one piece back, seven (7) button front closure, breast patch pockets with buttoned down flaps and convertible collar with collar band and collar stays. The sleeves shall have a placket at cuff opening, with two (2) buttons on each cuff for adjustment (see Figures 1 and 2). 3

22、4.1 Figures. Figures are furnished for information purposes only. To the extent of any inconsistencies between the specification and the figures, the specification shall govern. 3.5 Patterns. Standard patterns to be used to cut working patterns will be furnished by the Government (see 6.3). The work

23、ing patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns. Neither the Government patterns nor the working patterns shall be altered in any way. The patterns provide an allowance of 1/4 inch for all seams except for the front seam which shall be 3/8 inch Unless otherwise indicated in Table I, seams

24、 shall be in accordance with these seam allowances. * 3.5.1 Pattern parts. The component parts shall be cut from the material as specified and in accordance with the following list of pattern parts: F l. t 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IH

25、S-,-,-MIL-S-705bA 84 m 9997906 04LO546 b m MIL-S-87056A(NU) Material Pattern Parts Cut Parts Basic material Back 1 Center fronts 2 Side fronts 2 Sleeves 2 Collar 2 Collar band 2 Collar stay 2 Cuff i/ 2 Sleeve binding 2 Pocket (patch) 2 Pocket flap 4 Sleeve placket - i/ 2 Interlining, polyester Templ

26、ate s Cuff interlining Pocket flap interlining Collar interlining Collar band interlining Template, finished pocket Template, finished flap Template, buttonhole marker 2 2 1 1 - i/ Two piece construction is permitted, however, patterns must be adjusted to accommodate for seam allowances. 3.6 Constru

27、ction. 3.6.1 Stitches, seams and stitchings. Stitch, seam and stitching types, as specified in Table I shall conform to the requirements of FED-STD-751. Whenever two or more methods for seams or stitchings are given for the same operation, any one of them may be used. Seam allowance shall be maintai

28、ned with seams sewn so that no raw edges, riioffs, twists, pleats, puckers or open seam result. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there is no tight or loose stitching. Where stitch type 401 is used, the looper (underthread) shall be on the inside of

29、the shirt. Ends of all seams produced by stitch type 401 shall be caught in other seams or stitchings. The width of the safety stitch shall be 3/8 inch and the guide and knives on the machine shall be set to trim only the raveled ends of the fabric. 3.6.2 Stitches per inch. The minimum and maximum n

30、umber of stitches shall be as specified in Table I. 3.6.3 Thread breaks and ends of seams. Ends of all seams and stitchings when not caught in other seams or stitchings shall be backtacked not less than 3/8 inch. The ends of a continuous line of stitching shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch.

31、Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of break not less than 1/2 inch. Skipped stitches or thread breaks may be repaired by using 301 stitch type. When ends of overedge stitching are not caught in other seams or stitching, the ends shall be tacked. 3.6.4 Buttonholes. Th

32、e buttonholes shall be straight style with both ends securely barred. The finished cut length shall be 3/4 (+ - 1/16) inch. 6 c Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-f 0 3.7 Manufacturing operations requirements. The shirts shall be manufac

33、tured in accordance with operation requirements as specified in Table I. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations provided the finished shirts are identical to that produced by following the sequence listed in Table I. 3.7.1 Pressing operations. All pressing operatio

34、ns referenced in Table I shall be performed by using a heated pressing iron or steam pressing machine. 3.7.2 Abbreviations in table of operations. The abbreviations used in Table I are as follows: Steh - Stitch in Ndl - Needle Bob - Bobbin Lpr - Looper Mchne - Machine Brtck - Bart ack Comrcl - Comme

35、rcial smlr - similar Btnhl - Buttonhole incl - including dbl - double inch - 7 n Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-TABLE I - CONSTRUCTION OF SHIRTS Threa cm Stch Ndl Bob/ Op er at i on Stch Seam/ Type Stch type in Lpr Cutting a. All com

36、ponents of the basic cloth shall be cut in strict accordance with patterns furnished, which show size, shape, placement of pockets and flaps, directional lines for cutting and notches for proper assembly of all parts. b. Cut the components from one piece of material, except for the undercollar, slee

37、ve binding, and underply pieces for both pocket flaps which may be cut from ends. Parts cut from ends shall approximate the shade of the main assembly. C. The component parts cut from the basic cloth shall finish with the face side of the material on the outside. d. Cut the stripping (if alternate m

38、ethod is used) for the sleeve binding and sleeve placket of sufficient width to comply with operation 10 and 11. The stripping may be placed on rolls, however, there shall be no piecing visible on the shirt and stripping shall approximate the shade of the shirt. Replacement of defective components D

39、uring the spreading, cutting, and manufacturing process, components having material defects or damages that are classified as, defects in section 4,shall be removed from production and replaced with non-defective and properly matched material. Shade and size markings a. All parts shall be bundled, m

40、arked, or ticketed to insure proper shade and size identification, except parts cut from ends. b. The use of corrosive metal fastening devices or machine sewn-on tickets shall be prohibited. . 8 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-i I t l

41、 i I I i I I i I I I I I t t t t I I I I I I i I I I I I I I t I t I - NIL-S-8705bA 9 = 7777706 0430547 3 9 L O TABLE I - CONSTRUCTION OF SHIRTS Thread NO s Oper at ion Stch Seam/ Stch Ndl Bob/ Type Stch type in Lpr C. The use of ink pad numbering machine, rubber stamp, or pencil will be permitted p

42、rovided the numbers do not show through the outside of the garment and the numbers are covered by the seam allowance, when possible. *4 5. 6. Attach center fronts to side fronts a. Join center fronts to side fronts face to face. b. Overedge stitch the edges together. or C. Operations 4a and 4b may b

43、e performed in one operation by simultaneously stitching and overedging. d. Turn seam allowances towards center fronts and top stitch 3/16 inch from the folded edge. e. Overedge stitch outer raw edges of center fronts and shoulder edges which will form the facing as specified in operation 16a. Make

44、patch pockets a. Fold the top edge of pocket as indicated by pattern marks forming hem. Overedge stitch top raw edge of pockets. b. The pockets may be creased on an edge creasing machine to insure uniformity of size and shape before stitching to the shirt. Attach patch pockets a. Set pockets to shir

45、t according to marks on patterns, edgestitching 1/16 from folded edge along the bottom and sides. b. Backstitch 3/4 inch each end of pocket openings with the backstitching superimposed upon pocket stitching. 301 SSa-1 10-12 or 401 503 or SSa-1 8-10 504 or 602 515 or SSa-2 8-10 516 or 519 301 LSq-Z(b

46、) 10-12 502 or EFd-1 8-10 503 or 504 502 or EFd-1 8-10 503 or 504 301 LSd-1 10-12 301 Similar to 10-12 LSd-2 or 9 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-TABLE I - CONSTRUCTION OF SHIRTS Thread e No. , Operation Stch Seam/ Stch Ndl Bob/ Type

47、Stch type in Lpr C. The top corners of the pocket may be tacked with a triangle stitching. The base of the triangle (1/8 to 3/16 inches long), shall be at the top of the pocket with the apex 1/2 to 3/4 inches below the top of the pocket. d. The finished pocket for all sizes shall measure 4-1/4 (+ 1/

48、8 ) inches wide and 4-3/4 (+1/8) - inches deep at center front. Note: The finished pocket shall be checked for size and uniformity against the pocket template. *7. Make pocket flaps a. Superimpose interlining to backside of outer ply of pocket flap. With right sides together superimpose pocket flap

49、pieces and stitch along sides and pointed edge 1/4 inch from raw edges. b. Turn to finished position, working corners and seams out smooth and flat to edges. c. from turned edge. Topstitch sides and pointed edge 1/16 inch 8. Attach pocket flaps a. Position flaps on shirt 1/2 (+ 1/16) inch above top edge of finished pocketTand stitch 1/8 to 3/16 inch from the raw edge. b. Turn flaps down and topstitch 5/16 inch f