DLA MIL-S-87056 A INT AMENDMENT 1-1997 SHIRT WOMAN-S DRESS BLUE (LONG SLEEVE)《(长袖)蓝裙衫女用衬衫》.pdf

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1、278 I INCH-POUND 1 INTERIM AMENDMENT 1 OS December 1997 MILS-87056A MILITARY SPECIFICATION SHIRT, WOMANS DRESS BLUE (LONG SLEEVE) This interim amendment is approved for use within the Department of Defense, with MIL-S-87056A dated 27 November 1985. PAGE 2 Para. 2.1.1, under column for “SPECIFICATION

2、S, FEDERAL”, add : “A-A-501 99 - Thread Polyester Core, Cotton-or Polyester-Covered A-A-50135 - Cloth, Interlining, Polyester V-B-871 - Buttonhole, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple (Plastic)” under “SPECIFICATIONS, MILITARY”, delete: “MLT-43 548 - Thread, Polyester, Cotton-Covered and Rayon-Covered M

3、IL-C-43594 - Cloth, Interlining, Polyester MIL-P-55010 - Plastic, Sheet, Polyethylene Terephthalate”. PAGE 4 Para. 3.3.2.1, line 3, delete “MIL-T-43548” and substitute “A-A-50199, Type I”. Line 4 and 5, delete “or three”. Para. 3.3.2.2, lines 3 and 5, delete “MIL-T-43548” and substitute “A-A-50199”.

4、 Para. 3.3.3, at the end of paragraph, add “The polyester button to be under the finished collar shall be size 14 line, style 15, Black, Cable No. 62001 conforming to V-B-871, Type 2, Class D.” Para. 3.3.4.1, line 10, after “NAME OF CONTRACTOR:” add new line “NAME OF MANUFACTURER NOTE: WHEN OTHER TH

5、AN THE CONTRACTOR”. AMSC NIA FSC 8410 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-= 9999906 2057886 LO4 Initial After 25 launderings MILS-87056A INTERIM AMENDMENT 1

6、 Warp, 13.0 to 38.0 lbs. Filling, 6.0 to 22 lbs. Filling, 4.8 to 17.6 lbs. ASTM D 13 88, Option A Warp, 10.4 to 30.4 lbs. AATCC- 124- 1984 and ASTM D1388, Option A I/ PAGE 5 Initial After Para. 3.3.4.2, add new paragraph: No bubbling, delamination, Visual change, bleed through, or detrimental affect

7、 in the shade of the basic material “3.3.4.3 Barcode labehag. Each item shall be individually bar coded with a Type VIII, Class 17, labelhag of DDD-L-20. The labelhag shall be located so that it is completely visible on the item when it is folded and/or packaged as specified and shall cause no damag

8、e to the item.” Para. 3.3.5, delete in its entirety and substitute: “3.3.5 Underlvinn fabrics 3.3.5.1 Sew-in-interlining. The material used for interlining the collar shall be a polyester 3.3.5.2 Fusible interlining. The material used for interlining the top pockets flaps, top interlining conforming

9、 to A-A-50135, except the color shall be black. collarstand, and top cuffs shall be a dark Charcoal Gray or Black, nonwoven, polyester/nylon web with a minimum of 50 percent polyester which has been thermally bonded with a resin applied to the substrate. The weight of the fusible cloth including the

10、 adhesive shall be a 1.7 to 2.4 oz. sq./yd. cloth when tested in accordance with ASTM D3776, Option C. The breaking strength shall be a minimum 3.0 pounds in the warp direction and 2.0 pounds in the filling direction when tested in accordance with ASTM D5034. 3.3.5.3 Fused component conformance. A f

11、used sample consisting of the fusible and the basic material shall be tested against the requirements specified in Table IA. TABLE IA. In-process testing requirements I CHARACTERISTICS I REOUIREMENTS 1 TEST METHOD I After 25 laundering I 4.0 rating I AATCC-124-1984 and Visual I 2 Provided by IHSNot

12、for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-4 - 1/ 9999906 2057887 040 MIL-S-87056A INTERIM AMENDMENT 1 One 15 X 15 inch fused sample per 1000 fused pieces shall be laundered. Wash temperature shall be 140 (+/-5) degrees F, 60 (+/-3) degrees C. Drying shall be perf

13、ormed only &er the 25* washing. The evaluation portion of the AATCC test method is not applicable. Pressing of the sample prior to evaluation is prohibited. A fused sample will be tested for peel strength and appearance at the beginning of a contract, anytime the press is down, &er 1000 cut pieces h

14、ave been fused, and at the end of the contract. The fused sample shall be a 15 x 15 inch swatch. The fused sample shall be accepted if the fusible either splits from itself rather than separate from the outershell material or if it begins to separate fiom the outershell material higher than the mini

15、mum peel strength. and then splits fiom itself.”. Para. 3.3.6, delete in its entirety and substitute: “3.3.6 Collar stav. The plain collar stay shall be made fiom polyethylene terephthalate plastic sheet. The thickness shall be 0.009 (+/- 0,0015) inch and the color shall be natural (clear or opaque)

16、. The stay shall measure not less than 1/4 inch or more than 3/8 inch wide and 2-1/4 to 2- 1/2 inches in length when tested as specified in 4.4.1. Both ends shall be round, pointed, cut on an angle or any combination thereof. When other than round, points shall be rounded.”. After Para. 3.3.6, add:

17、“3.3.7 Elastic. The elastic cord to be used under the collar shail be black polyester fiber, flat, 1/8 to 3/16 inch wide, with a minimum stretch.”. Para. 3.4, delete in its entirety and substitute: “3.4 Desim. The long sleeve shirt shall be of a two-piece princess style front and a one piece back, f

18、ive (5) button front closure, breast patch pockets with buttoned down flaps, convertible collar with 112 collarstand and collar stays. The collar shall close with an elastic cord loop under right side of collar and loop around a button under the lee side of the collar. The sleeves shall have a plack

19、et at cuff opening, with two (2) buttons on each cuff for adjustment (see Figures 1 and 2). The top collarstand, top pocket flaps and top cuffs shall be fused.”. Para. 3.5, lines 5 and 6, after “seams” delete “except for the front seam which shall be 3/8 inch”. PAGE 6 Para. 3.5.1, delete pattern par

20、ts list in its entirety and substitute: MATERIAL PIECE NAME SPECIFICATION NAME CUT PIECES SIZES Basic material -FRONT_N12 CENTER FRONT 2 ALL S-FRON-Nl2 SIDE FRONT 2 ALL COLLAR-N12 COLLAR 2 ALL BACK 12 BACK 1 ALL 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license f

21、rom IHS-,-,-W 9999Ob 2057888 T87 MIL-S-87056A INTERIM AMENDMENT 1 CLRSTD-N12 FRONTNl3 B ACK-fl3 S-FRON N13 . COLLAR-N13 CLRSTD-N 13 COLLARSTAND CENTER FRONT SIDE FRONT BACK COLLAR COLLARSTAND ALL ALL ALL ALL ALL ALL FRONT N14 S-FROf-Nl4 BACK-N14 COLLAR-N14 CLRSTD-N14 CENTER FRONT SIDE FRONT BACK COL

22、LAR COLLARSTAND ALL ALL ALL ALL ALL FRONT-N15 BACK-Nl5 S-FRON-N 1 5 COLLAR-N15 CLRSTD-N15 CENTER FRONT SIDE FRONT BACK COLLAR COLLARSTAND ALL ALL ALL ALL ALL FRONT N16 S-FROC-N16 BACK-N16 COLLAR-N16 CLRSTD-NI 6 SLV-A-L29 CENTER FRONT SIDE FRONT BACK COLLAR COLLARSTAND SLEEVE ALL ALL ALL ALL ALL 32 t

23、o 38 32 to 38 32 to 38 32 to 38 40 to 42nly 40 to 42 40 to 42 32 to 38 32 to 36 38 to 42 Only OdY Only OdY OdY OdY OdY OdY OdY SLV-A - L30 SLEEVE 2 SLV-A-L32 SLEEVE 2 SLV-A-L34 SLV-BL29 SLEEVE SLEEVE 2 2 SLV_B-L30 SLEEVE 2 SLV-BL32 SLEEVE 2 SLV-BL34 SLEEVE 2 POCKET-X POCKET 2 POCKET-Y POCKET 2 4 Pro

24、vided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- m 9999906 2057889 913 m PKT - FLAP-X PKT - FLAP-Y CUFF-Q CUFF-R WIDEPLAKET NM-PLAKET WDPLKT-ALT NRPLKT-ALT Sew-in-Interlining CLR-IN-N 12 CLR-IN-N 13 CLR-IN-N 1 4 CLR-IN-NI 5 CLR-IN-N 16 Fusible P-FLP-IN-

25、x Interlining P-FLP-IN-Y C ST-IN-N 12 CST-IN-N13 CST-IN-N 14 CST-IN-N15 C ST-IN-NI 6 CUFF-INT-Q CUFF-INT-R MIL-S-87056A INTERIM AMENDMENT 1 POCKET FLAP POCKET-FLAP CUFF CUFF WIDE PLACKET NARROW PLACKET WIDE PLACKET (ALT) NARROW PLACKET (ALT) COLLAR INTERLINING COLLAR INTERLINING COLLAR INTERLINING C

26、OLLAR INTERLINING COLLAR INTERLINING POCKET FLAP INTERLINING POCKET FLAP INTERLrnG COLLARSTAND INTERLINING COLLARSTAND INTERLINING COLLARSTAND INTERLINING COLLARSTAND INTERLINING COLLARSTAND INTERLINING CUFF INTERLINING CUFF INTERLINING 4 4 2 2 2 2 2 2 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 32 to 36 OdY OdY Od

27、Y OdY 38 to 42 32 to 38 40 to 42 ALL ALL ALL ALL ALL ALL ALL ALL ALL 32 to 36 38 to 38 ALL ALL ALL ALL ALL 32 to 38 40 to 42 OdY OdY OdY OdY 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- = 9Ob 2057890 b35 MIL-S-87056A INTERIM AMENDMENT 1 FIN PKT

28、-X FINISHED POCKET - 32 to 36 Templates - OdY OdY FLAP OdY FLAP OdY FIN-PKT-Y FINISHED POCKET - 38 to 42 - . FN-P-FLP-X T FINISHED POCKET 32 to 36 FN-P-FLP-Y T FINISHED POCKET - 38 to 42 BTNHOL-MKR BUTTONHOLE MARKER - ALL Para. 3.6.1, line 10, delete “The width of the safety stitch shall be 3/8 inch

29、” and substitute “The width of the safety stitch seam shall be 114 inch, the bite shall be 3/16 inch,”. PAGE 9 Operation 4.d., delete in its entirety. PAGE 10 Operation 6.d., delete in its entirety and substitute: “6.d. The finished pocket X, sizes 32-36, shall measure 4-1/4 (+/-1/16) inches wide, 4

30、-3/4 (+/- 1/16) inches deep and for finished pocket Y, sizes 38-42, shall measure 4-3/4 (+/-1/16) inches wide and 5-1/2 (+/-1/16) inches deep. NOTE: The finished pocket shall be checked for size and uniformity against the pocket template. The depth measurement shall be taken at center front.”. Opera

31、tion 7.q line 1, delete “1/16” and substitute “1/4”. Operation 8.a., line 1, after “shirt” add “centered”. Operation 8.b., line 1 delete “5/16” and substitute “1/4”. Operation 8.c., delete in its entirety and substitute: “ 8.c. The finished pocket flap shall measure 2 (h 1/16) inches in vertical len

32、gth at center point, and 1-112 (h 1/16) inches at sides for all sizes. The finished pocket flap X (sizes 32-36) shall measure 4-3/8 (k 1/16) inches in width. The finished pocket flap Y (sizes 38-42) shall measure 4- 7/8 (k 1/16) inches in width”. PAGE 11 Operation 10.a., line 1, before “Bind”, add n

33、ew sentence, “Clip a V-notch at the end of placket opening.”. Line 4, after “bindings” add “(narrow placket)”. Line 7 after “binding” add “(narrow placket)”. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-m 9999906 2057893 573 m MIES-87056A INTERIM

34、AMENDMENT 1 Operation 1 O continued: Operation O.C., line 1 after “binding” add “narrow placket”. Operation 10, add 10.d.: “Operation 10.d. With end of binding (narrow placket) on outside of sleeve, fold “V” notch towards of sleeve and stitch through notch and binding (narrow placket) 1/32 inch fiom

35、 folded edge. 301 or 401 LSd-1 1O-1ZYy. PAGE 13 Operation 14.a., delete in its entirety and substitute “Center fusible on fold of top ply of cuff and press.”. Lines 1 and 3 delete “interlining” and substitute “fiising”. PAGE 14 Operation 14.c., line 3, delete “Y16 to 3/8 and substitute “1/4”, line 6

36、, after “cuff delete “3/16 to”. “Seam Type” delete “Sse-2” and substitute “Ssae-2”. “NOTE, line 2, delete “interlined” and substitute “fused”. Operation 14.d., line 2, delete “3/16 to”. Operation 14.e., line 1, delete “stitch” and substitute “topstitch”. Operation 14.f., after “inches” delete (.) an

37、d insert the following, “for ail sizes. The finished cuff Q length shall measure 9-1/8 (+/-1/8) inches. The finished cuff R length will measure 10-118 (+/- 1 /8) inches. ” . PAGES 15 & 16 Operation IS., delete in its entirety and substitute: “1 5. Collar assembly a. Place stay on collar interlining,

38、 according to marks on pattern, and tack through stay and interlining. 301 or 304, SSv-1, 10-12 b. Center fiisible interlining to one ply of collarstand. Press fusible interlining to back of collarstand in accordance with the directions of the fusible manufacturer. c. Join collar pieces together sti

39、tching 1/4 inch from raw edge, on top and sides. Trim corners and turn to finished position . 301 or 401, SSae-Z(a), 10-12 Topstitch around the top and side edges of collar, 114 inch fiom finished folded edge. 301, SSbe-2(b), 1 O- 12 - NOTE: Be sure collar stay is on underside of finished collar. d.

40、 Staystitch collarstand seam of collar 118 inch fiom raw edges, joining interlining and shell pieces together, in preparation for the attachment of the collarstand. 30 1, SSa- 1, 1 O- 12 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- = 9999906 20

41、57892 408 MILS-87056A INTERIM AMENDMENT 1 NOTE: This is an optional operation. e. Insert collar assembly between collarstands, and stitch according to notches, 1/4 inch from raw edge, easing the collarstand to the collar. 301 or 401, SSe-2(a), 10-12 NOTE: Fused collarstand piece shall be closest to

42、wearer. f Turn to finished position and edgestitch 1/16 inch from folded edge. 301, SSe-2(b), 10-12” PAGES 16 & 17 Operation 16., delete in its entirety and substitute. “16. Collar attachment a. Stay stitch outer collar assembly (unfsed) to neckline, only 112 inch past shoulder, matching center back

43、 notches. 301, SSa-1, 10-12 b. Cut a 4-1/2 (+1/8, -0) inches long piece of button elastic. Place 1-1/4 inch back from collar placement notch on lefi side of shirt. Form a closed loop finishing 2 (+/-1/8) inches, with elastic ends side by side when stitched. This loop shall be included when attaching

44、 collar to neckline of shirt. Place folded loop so fold shall be stitched in such a way that it will lay towards the center back neckline. Elastic shall be securely stitched or tacked so it shall not pull out of seam. c. Starting at one side of neckline, turn facing back onto collar, matching unfiis

45、ed collar assembly ends at notches, and stitch through all plies from center front, 1/4 inch from raw edge stopping 1/2 inch before shoulder seam, notch through all plies. At notch, flip or move the inner collarstand out of the way, and continue single needle stitching across and past center back, a

46、pproximately 1 inch. 301, SSa-1, 10-12 d. Turn shirt over to opposite center front and stitch in the same way as stated above, stopping at center back, overlapping approximately 1/2 inch. 30 1, SSa-1, 1 O- 12 e. Turn inner collarstand under 1/4 inch and edgestitch 1/16 inch from turned edge, across

47、fiom notch to notch. 301, BSq-2(b), 10-12 f. Distance from edgestitched seam of collarstand to outer edge of topcollar along neckline should measure 1-1/2 (+/-1/8) inches. g. Collar Finished Measurements: of collar. Points will be equal in length. 1. Collar points are 3-1/4 (+/-1/8) inches long. Mea

48、sure from base of collar at neckline to point 2. Collarstand height at center back measures 1-1/4 (+/-1/8) inches. 3. Collar at center back from collarstand seam measures 2(+/-1/8) inches to finished edge. 8 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IH

49、S-,-,-9Ob 2057893 344 m MIL-S-87056A INTERIM AMENDMENT 1 h. Stamp the size label inscription as specified in 3.3.6.1 inside back of collarstand. There shall be no evidence of the printing visible on outside of finished collar as worn. or Simultaneously center and catch the size label in the top collarstand stitching with operation 16.e. NOTE: There shall be no evidence of the collar stay or reinforcement p