DLA A-A-55210 A-2000 SLACKS FEMALE WORKING BLUE POLYESTER COTTON (CG)《女式聚酯 棉(CG)工作蓝家常裤》.pdf

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1、I INCHPOUND I A-A-552 1 OA MAY 4,2000 SUPERSEDING MAY 27,1993 A-A-552 1 O COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTION SLACKS, FEMALE, WORKING BLUE, POLYESTERKOTTON (CG) The General Services Administration has authorized the use of this commercial item description as a replacement for A-A-55210 for all Federal agenc

2、ies. 1. SCOPE. This commercial item description covers the requirements for womens slacks used by female military personnel of the Coast Guard as part of the undress and working blue uniform. 2. -CLASSIFICATION. The slacks shall be one type only, and shall be available in the following sizes: Sizes.

3、 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22 Lengths. Short, Regular, Long, X-Long 3. SALIENT CHARACTERISTICS. 3.1 Description. The slacks shall be a single needle construction except the seat seam shall be made with a double needle seat seamer. All seams shall be overedged and pressed open. The bottoms shall

4、be unhemmed and overedged. The waistband shall be two piece and shall finish Beneficial comments, recommendations, additions, deletions, clarifications, etc. and any data which may improve this document should be sent to: Defense Supply Center Philadelphia, Clothing and Textiles Directorate, ATIN: D

5、PSC-CRFD, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 6D, Philadelphia, PA 191 1 1-5096. AMSC NIA FSC 8410 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55210A 1-3/4 ( 2 US) inches wide utilizing a commercial type lining assembly and a hook and eye closure. T

6、he slack shall have two (2) uncut front waist darts and four (4) uncut back waist darts. The slack shall have five (5) belt loops for sizes up to and including size 12, and seven (7) for size 14 and above (see figure i); and shall measure 5/8 to 3/4 inches wide with a 1-3/4 c+ -US) inch opening (see

7、 figure 2); a “7 stitched right front slide fastener fly; two (2) quarter top side pockets with one row 1/16 inch edgestitch and shall have a 5-3/8 to 5-5/8 inch opening bartacked at both opening ends. The slack shall have two (2) double welt (1/8 to 3/16) hip pockets and shall measure 5-1/4 c+ US)

8、inches wide and bartacked vertically at both ends, and 6-1/4 (_+ 1/4) inches in depth, with a button and 5/8 to 3/4 inch vertical buttonhole worked over gimp centered 3/16 to 5/16 inch below the lower welt seam on left pocket. The slack shall be pressed smooth at the top including the fly and the le

9、gs shall be creased in the center with the seam matching at the bottom and in the crotch. 3.2 MATERIAL,. 3.2.1 Basic material. The basic material shall be a 65% polyester/35% cotton twill in accordance with CG-CDTO-T-0800. The color shall be Blue 3362. 3.2.2 Pocketing and lining. The cloth for the p

10、ockets, waistband lining, and left fly lining shall be polyester, polyestedcotton, or polyester/rayon twill. The color shall be Black . The cloth shall have a minimum weight of 4.3 odsq. yd and a minimum breaking strength of 72 pounds (warp) and 55 pounds (filling) when tested as specified in ASTM-D

11、-5034. 3.2.3 Interlining. The material for interlining the waistband shall be a polyester or polyester/cellulose blend non-woven with a minimum weight of 3.0 odsq yd and be equivalent to commercial industry standards. 3.2.4 Thread. The thread shall be a cotton-covered polyester thread conforming to

12、ticket number 50 or 70,2 or 3-ply for seaming and stitching, ticket number 50 for bartacks and buttonholes and ticket number 16 or 24 for button sewing. The color shall be black. The thread shall show “good” colorfastness to laundering and light when tested in accordance to AATCC 61, Test 3A and AAT

13、CC 16 Option A, respectively. 3.2.5 Gimp. The gimp for reinforcing the buttonholes shall conform to Type I or II, size No 8. The color shall be black. The gimp shall show “good” colorfastness to laundering and light when tested to AATCC 61, Test 3A and AATCC 16, Option A, respectively. 3.2.6 Button.

14、 The button for the left hip pocket shall be flat, 4 hole melamine plastic, 22-line. The color shall be Black BT, Cable No. 62001 with a glossy finish. 3.2.7 Slide fastener. The slide fastener shall be non-separating, non-reversible cam lock, size light medium, short tab pull. All metal components o

15、f the slide fastener shall be brass and the semi-automatic pin lock cover and spring shall be stainless steel. A staple bottom stop is 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55210A required. As an alternate, a continuous monofilament n

16、ylon or polyester coil chain with polyester or polyester/cotton blend tape and automatic lock may be used. The color of the tape shall approximate the shade of the basic material. The tape shall show “good” .colorfastness to laundering and light when tested in accordance with AATCC 61, Test 3A and A

17、ATCC 16 Option A, respectively. 3.2.8 Hook and eye. The hook and eye for the waistband shall be North and Judd (Hook flex H-49 and E-50), Universal Button Co. (Talon #3, #7,or #8 hook with #8 eye or #85 eye), Patwin Inc., (Slim-Slack with MB eye) or equal. The finish of both components shall be nick

18、el plate. 3.3 Labels. Each pair of slacks shall have a identification instruction label and shall be placed on the outside bottom of the right side pocket (facing wearer) stitched completely around label without stitching through the printing; and a size label and NSN shall be placed in waistband on

19、 right side above back pocket. The print characters shall be a minimum of 18-points (approximately 1/4 inch) and the print shall be black showing “good” color fastness to laundering when tested in accordance with AATCC 61, Test 3A. The inscription for the combination identification and instruction l

20、abel shall be as follows. NAME: Size: 12 Regular (Example) SLACKS, FEMALE, WORKING BLUE FIBER CONTENT: 65% POLYESTER 35% COTTON CONTRACT NO. : SP0100-000-0000 (Example) NAME OF CONTRACTOR: NAME OF MANFACTURER: (if other than contractor) NATIONAL STOCK NUMBER INSTRUCTION MACHINE WASH, WARM (120 F MAX

21、) USE MILD SOAP OR DETERGENT DO NOT BLEACH OR STARCH TUMBLE DRY, MEDIUM HEAT, REMOVE PROMPTLY If needed, touch up with iron - low setting An additional paper size label shall be tacked to the outside of the waistband near the right front pocket. The inscription for the size label shall be as follows

22、: 14R (EXAMPLE) 8410-00-0000-0000 (EXAMPLE) 3.3.1 Labeytag. Each item shall be individually bar-coded with a paper tag for personal clothing items. The paper tag shall be standard bleached sulfate having a basis weight of 100 pounds. 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permi

23、tted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55210A The paper used for the tags shall have a smooth finish to accept thermal transfer and direct printing. The tags shall have a hole and shall be attached to each item by a fastener, clearly legible and readable by a scanner. The bar coding element shall be

24、a 13 digit national stock number (NSN). There shall be a 12 digit UPC bar code number assigned for all NSNs by the procuring activity. The initials UPC must appear beneath the code. The bar code for NSNs and UPC type shall be a medium to high code density and shall be located so that it is completel

25、y visible on the item when it is folded andor packaged as specified and so that it causes no damage to the item. 3.4 Seams and stitches. Seaming shall be consistent and exhibit a uniform appearance and shall conform to ASTM-D-6193 stitch and seam types. All topstitching, and raise stitching shall be

26、 sewn with 12-14 stitches per inch with 301 stitch type. All other seams shall be sewn with 12-14 stitches per inch with 301 or 401 stitch type, except that the back seam shall be sewn with 8-10 stitches per inch with a double needle seat seamer 1/32 to 1/64 gage with 401 stitch type. All overedge s

27、titching shall be 6-8 stitches per inch. To maintain durability and functionality, bartacks 318 to 518 inch in length with approximately 27 stitches per inch are required at the reinforcement points, top and bottom of side pocket openings, at the ends of the welt pocket openings, bottom of fly, and

28、belt loops. Buttonholes shall be eyelet end, taper bar, 518 to 314 inch length and 52-56 stitches per inch with end securely tacked. All material edges shall be clean finished. Edges shall be turned-in, turned-under, or serged. 3.5 Sizes and measurements. The finished measurements of the slacks shal

29、l conform to Table I. All measurements and tolerance are expressed in inches, and shall be taken without pulling or stretching the slacks. TABLE I. Finished measurements Size Waist (A) Hips (B S 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 Tol. 23-112 24- 112 25-112 27 30 32 34 36 28-112 - + 112 36 37 38 41 39-112 42-

30、112 44- 112 46- 112 48-112 - + 112 Inseam - Unhemmed (C) 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 - + 112 R L XL 34 34 34 34 34 34 34 34 34 - + 112 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 i 112 38 38 38 38 38 38 38 38 38 - + 112 Knee (D) Leg Bottom 18-314 19 19-114 19-112 19-314 20 20-114 20-112 20-314 - + 112 18-314 19 19-11

31、4 19-112 19-314 20 20- 114 20- 112 20-314 - + 112 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55210A (A) With slide fastener closed and waistband hooked, measure along top edge of waistband from folded edge. Multiply by two (2). (B) With sl

32、ide fastener closed and waistband hooked, measure from edge to folded edge, one inch above fly bartack. Multiply by two (2). (C) Measure along inseam from crotch seam to (unhemmed) bottom edge of leg. (D) Twice the measurement from folded edge to folded edge across the width of slack leg at a point

33、up from bottom of leg as follows: Short - 16 inches Regular - 17 inches Long - 18 inches X-Long - 19inches (E) Measure across unhemmed bottom edge of leg. Multiply by two (2). 3.6 Patterns. The Government will furnish a set of standard patterns to be used to cut working patterns. The working pattern

34、s shall be identical to the Government patterns. Neither the Government patterns nor the working patterns shall be altered in any way, except that additional notches for use during construction are allowed on working patterns. Also, minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automa

35、tic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability, or appearance requirements. The standard patterns provide a seam allowance of 5/16 inch for all seams except for 1/2 inch allowance for the inseams and outseams. In addition, the back seam allowance shall be 7/8 inch

36、es at the top tapered to 1/2 inch at the crotch. 3.6.1 Pattern Parts. The component parts shall be cut from the materials specified in accordance with the following pattern parts: Material Pattern part cut parts Basic material Front 2 Back 2 Waistband 2 Side pocket bearer 2 Side pocket facing 2 Hip

37、pocket bearer 2 Hip pocket narrow facing 2 Left fly 1 Right fly facing 1 Right fly interlining 1 Pocketinghng Side pocket 5 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55210A Hip pocket Ift fly lining 2 1 4. REGULATORY REQU REMENTS. 4.1 Rec

38、ycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered or environmentally referable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cy

39、cle costs. 5. PRODUCT CONFORMANCE PROVISIONS 5.1 Product conformance. The products offered shall meet the salient characteristics of this commercial item description, conform to the producers own drawings, specifications, standards, and quality assurance practices, and be the same product that is of

40、fered for sale in the commercial market. The Government reserves the right to require proof of such conformance. 5.2 Defects. Any hole, cut or tear, or needle chew, burn; drill hole, multiple float, open place, knot dub, misweave, loose yarn, woven in waste, color not as specified; any variation bet

41、ween parts, poor dye penetration, or dyestreak. Any omitted or poor pressing, any double crease line, any burn or scorch, gloss or impressions not removed, legs not pressed seam to seam. Any spot or stain, raw edges, open seams, thread ends not removed, loose or tight tension; any component not as s

42、pecified, tight, twisted distorted, pleated, or full. Any component part or operation omitted. Buttonhole omitted, not as specified type, not finished as specified, or misplaced. Button omitted, broken, defective, misplaced, not as specified, or insecurely sewn. Hook and eye damaged, not securely at

43、tached causing a bulge, twist, distortion, or pucker. Bartacks missing, insecure, misplaced, not serving intended purpose, or loose stitch tension. Width of waistband or waistband lining not as specified, lining exposed on outside, waistband puckered pleated, or excess fullness. Belt loops omitted,

44、misplaced, not as specified width or length. Length of fly uneven at top, fly facing exposed beyond front edge, seam joining right fly to front exposed when fly is closed, right fly stitching irregular. Slide fastener not operable, stitching too close to edge of chain not permitting slider too pass

45、freely, any cut, tear, or hole in slide fastener tape. Top of pocketing not securely or evenly inserted under waistband, pocketing caught in unrelated stitching, unfinished seam on pocketing, hip pocket welt varies in width, dart incomplete or not extending into pocket opening. Outlet or lining outl

46、et at waistband omitted or less than specified amount. Any label missing, incorrect, or illegible; bar code label omitted or not readable by scanner; human-readable interpretation (HRI) omitted or illegible; bar code label not visible on folded, packaged item; bar code causes damage to the item; any

47、 items not packaged in accordance with the contract or order. 5.3 Acceptance criteria. Acceptance criteria shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order. 6. PACKAGING 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55210A 6.1 Preserva

48、tion, packing, and marking. The preservation, packing, and marking shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order. 7. NOTES 7.1 Source of Government documents. Copies of military and Federal documents are available from: Standardization Documents Order Desk Bldg. 4D 700 Robbins Avenue Phila

49、delphia, PA 19 1 1 1-5094 7.2 Source of non-Government documents. AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS (ASTM) ASTM-D-5034- ASTM-D-6197 Breaking Force and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test) Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams (Applications for copies should be addressed to American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM), 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959.) AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC) AATCC