BS 7269-2-1991 Drycleanability of leather garments - Method for assessing drycleanability《皮革服装耐干洗性 第2部分 耐干洗性的评定方法》.pdf

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1、BRITISH STANDARD BS7269-2: 1991 Drycleanability of leather garments Part2: Method for assessing drycleanabilityBS7269-2:1991 This BritishStandard, having been prepared under the directionof the Textiles and Clothing Standards Policy Committee, was published underthe authority of the Standards Board

2、and comes intoeffect on 28June1991 BSI11-1999 The following BSI references relate to the work on this standard: Committee reference TCM/17 Draft for comment88/39725DC ISBN 0 580 19260 1 Committees responsible for this BritishStandard The preparation of this BritishStandard was entrusted by the Texti

3、les and Clothing Standards Policy Committee (TCM/-) to Technical Committee TCM/17, upon which the following bodies were represented: British Clothing Industry Association British Footwear Manufacturers Federation British Leather Confederation Chief and Assistant Chief Fire Officers Association Consu

4、mer Policy Committee of BSI Footwear Distributors Federation Hides and Allied Trades Improvement Society Institute of Trading Standards Administration Ministry of Defence Overseas Development Natural Resources Institute SATRA Footwear Technology Centre Scottish Hide, Skin and Tallow Markets Limited

5、Society of Leather Technologists and Chemists Amendments issued since publication Amd. No. Date CommentsBS7269-2:1991 BSI 11-1999 i Contents Page Committees responsible Inside front cover Foreword ii 1 Scope 1 2 Definitions 1 3 Principle 1 4 Apparatus and reagents 1 5 Atmosphere for conditioning and

6、 testing 1 6 Test specimens 1 7 Procedure 2 8 Test report 4 Appendix A Layout of test report 5 Appendix B Information relating to minimal change in texture, handleandsurface appearance 6 Table 1 Correlation of extractable oil content, star rating andconcentrationoftriolein solution 2 Table 2 Procedu

7、re to be followed 3 Table 3 Example of recommended layout of test report 5 Publication(s) referred to Inside back coverBS7269-2:1991 ii BSI 11-1999 Foreword This Part of BS7269 has been prepared under the direction of the Textiles and Clothing Standards Policy Committee. It specifies a test method f

8、or assessing the drycleanability of leather garments using commercial drycleaning equipment. During the development of the method, agreement was reached on standard temperatures, process times and concentrations of oil in solvent. It was noted that various blended oils were used in commercial re-oil

9、ing processes. However, it was agreed to use triolein (glyceryl trioleate) as a reference oil since this oil was considered to be realistic and definable. It was also accepted that the centrifuging properties of drycleaning machines differ and if therefore two nominally identical garments were drycl

10、eaned and re-oiled in different machines, the two garments would have slightly different final oil contents. Guidance to drycleaners was therefore considered desirable, and is given as Appendix B of BS7269-1. BS7269-1 also specifies the requirements for the drycleanability of leather garments, toget

11、her with the symbols to be used on leather garment care labels, these indicating firstly which drycleaning solvents are suitable and secondly the degree of re-oiling that will be necessary. A British Standard does not purport to include all the necessary provisions of a contract. Users of British St

12、andards are responsible for their correct application. Compliance with a British Standard does not of itself confer immunity from legal obligations. Summary of pages This document comprises a front cover, an inside front cover, pagesi andii, pages1 to6, an inside back cover and a back cover. This st

13、andard has been updated (see copyright date) and may have had amendments incorporated. This will be indicated in the amendment table on the inside front cover.BS7269-2:1991 BSI 11-1999 1 1 Scope This Part of BS7269 describes a method of test for determining whether or not a leather garment is drycle

14、anable. It is applicable to all leather garments that are intended to be maintained by a leather drycleaning process. NOTEThe titles of the publications referred to in this standard are listed on the inside back cover. 2 Definitions For the purposes of this Part of BS7269, the definitions given in B

15、S2780 and BS7269-1 apply. 3 Principle Three nominally identical test specimens are obtained. The first test specimen is used as a control, and does not undergo any drycleaning treatment. It is retained to indicate the original colour and handle, together with the original appearance of the seams, tr

16、ims and lining. The second test specimen is subjected to a drycleaning process using commercial equipment involving a two-bath cleaning process with re-oiling in the second bath, centrifugal extraction, tumble drying, spray re-oiling (where necessary) and steam finishing. An assessment of dimensiona

17、l, colour and other changes is carried out after cleaning and after finishing, by comparing the second test specimen with the first test specimen. The assessment after finishing determines whether or not the garment is regarded as drycleanable. The third test specimen is retained for a retest in cas

18、e this is required. 4 Apparatus and reagents 4.1 Smooth, flat surface, of dimensions such that the test specimens can be laid flat for measurement. 4.2 Measuring device, graduated in millimetres, suitable for the measurement of the dimensions of the test specimens. 4.3 Grey scale, for assessing chan

19、ge in colour, as described in methods A01 and A02 of BS1006. 4.4 Make-weights, to provide the balance of the drycleaning load. These are to be undyed, but fat-liquored, mineral-tanned bovine suede butt splits of1.0mm to1.5mm substance, which are cleaned before each test and re-oiled using a solution

20、 of50g/L of triolein (glyceryl trioleate) in drycleaning solvent. They are to be used in not more than25 test runs. 4.5 Commercial drycleaning machine, with a rated capacity of9.0kg to22.5kg. 4.6 Drycleaning solvent, consisting of distilled tetrachloroethylene or distilled trichlorotrifluoroethane (

21、solvent113) or distilled trichlorofluoromethane (solvent11). 4.7 Triolein solution,50g/L,100g/L or150g/L of triolein (glyceryl trioleate), commercial grade, in drycleaning solvent(4.6) or0g/L (drycleaning solvent only). 4.8 Sulphated neats-foot oil, containing between4% and8% of combined sulphur tri

22、oxide and suspended as a10% by mass emulsion in water. 4.9 Spraying equipment, for spraying an emulsion of sulphated neats-foot oil on to the cleaned test specimen. 4.10 Free steam garment press 4.11 Suede brush, with wire or hair bristles. 5 Atmosphere for conditioning and testing The atmosphere fo

23、r conditioning and testing shall be20 2 C and65 2%r.h. 6 Test specimens 6.1 Selection of test specimens Obtain three nominally identical garments or, if these are not available, prepare three composite test specimens using the materials of the garment; if this is not possible, cut three composite te

24、st specimens from a single garment. Ensure that these composite test specimens include all relevant components such as leathers, stitching, textiles, linings, interlinings, adhesives, adhesive tapes, buttons, bindings, trims and other components that are in the garment, and that these are fixed in t

25、he same manner and in the same relative positions as in the garment. Ensure that composite test specimens have leather and textile seams corresponding to those in the garment and that these are at least250mm in length to enable dimensional changes and puckering to be assessed. Ensure that all these

26、components in each of the test specimens are undamaged, so that if at some later stage a test specimen is found to be damaged this can be correctly ascribed to the test. 6.2 Preparation and conditioning of test specimens and make-weights 6.2.1 Retain the first test specimen as a control, to indicate

27、 the original colour and handle, together with the original appearance of the seams, trims, lining and other components. Retain the third test specimen for a retest in case this is required.BS7269-2:1991 2 BSI 11-1999 6.2.2 Condition the second test specimen and make-weights(4.4) in the atmosphere d

28、escribed in clause5 for48h prior to the test. Ensure that air has free access to the second test specimen. 6.2.3 Lay the second test specimen on the smooth, flat surface(4.1). Using a suitable measuring device(4.2), measure and record the lengths of the various parts of the outer and the lining of t

29、he second test specimen as follows: a) for jackets and coats, measure and record the length, sleeve length and width at the shoulders; b) for trousers, measure and record the waist, length, and inside leg length; c) for skirts, measure and record the waist and length; d) for composite test specimens

30、, measure and record the lengths of the seams. Record these as lengths before cleaning. 6.2.4 Assess the second test specimen for panel-to-panel variation in colour using the grey scale(4.3). If the test specimen contains leathers oftwo or more types and/or colours, assess the panel-to-panel variati

31、on in colour of each type of leather of each colour. Record these assessments as assessments of panel-to-panel colour variation before cleaning. NOTEFor example, if the second test specimen contains a light brown suede and a dark brown grain leather, two assessments are to be carried out. The first

32、assessment is the variation in colour of the panels of light brown suede, which is then recorded; the second assessment is the variation in colour of the panels of dark brown grain leather, which is then recorded. Similarly, if the second test specimen contains a light brown suede, a dark brown sued

33、e and a dark brown grain leather, three assessments are to be carried out and recorded. 7 Procedure 7.1 Cleaning 7.1.1 Weigh the second test specimen, and add tothis test specimen a sufficient amount of make-weights(4.4) so that the total mass of the second test specimen plus these make-weights is b

34、etween50% and75% of the maximum load recommended by the manufacturer of the drycleaning machine(4.5). Place these in the drycleaning machine. Add6.0 0.5L of drycleaning solvent(4.6) per kilogram of machine rated capacity, using the drycleaning solvent recommended by the leather supplier. Record the

35、drycleaning solvent used. Run for8.0 0.5min at25.0 2.5 C. Drain the drycleaning machine and centrifugally extract for3.0 0.2min. 7.1.2 Retain the second test specimen and the make-weights in the drycleaning machine. Add3.0 0.5L of the triolein solution(4.7) per kilogram of machine rated capacity, us

36、ing the concentration of triolein solution corresponding to the extractable oil content of the leather or the star rating of the garment and selected from the values0g/L,50g/L,100g/L,150g/L of triolein in drycleaning solvent (seeTable 1). Record this concentration of triolein solution. Table 1 Corre

37、lation of extractable oil content, star rating and concentration of triolein solution a Run for8.0 0.5min at25.0 2.5 C. Drain the bath and centrifugally extract for605s. Evaporate the drycleaning solvent from the load at an outlet temperature of45 C to55 C. Ensure that the drycleaning solvent has be

38、en removed from the load. NOTEWhere tetrachloroethylene is used as the drycleaning solvent, the time taken to ensure drycleaning solvent evaporation is normally45min for shearlings and30min for other leathers. Where trichlorotrifluoroethane or trichlorofluoromethane is used, the time taken to ensure

39、 drycleaning solvent evaporation is normally20min. 7.1.3 Recondition the second test specimen in the atmosphere described in clause5 for48h, ensuring free air circulation round the test specimen. 7.1.4 Measure and record the lengths of the various parts of the outer and the lining of the second test

40、 specimen as described in6.2.3. Compare these values with those obtained in6.2.3. Record the percentage change in these lengths as the percentage change after cleaning. 7.1.5 Repeat the procedure given in6.2.4. Record these assessments as assessments of panel-to-panel colour variation after cleaning

41、. Extractable oil content Star rating Concentration of triolein solution % (m/m) 0 1 to5 6 to10 Above10 No star One star (i.e.*) Two stars (i.e.*) Three stars (i.e.*) g/L 0 50 100 150 NOTEDifferent drycleaning machines have different centrifugal actions. Accordingly, seeAppendix B of BS7269-1:1991 f

42、or guidance on determining the correct concentration of triolein solution to be used when drycleaning garments labelled in accordance with BS7269-1. a See clause 4 of BS7269-1:1991.BS7269-2:1991 BSI 11-1999 3 7.1.6 Compare material of one colour and type on the second test specimen with material of

43、the same colour and type on the first test specimen (which was retained for control purposes in accordance with6.2.1). Firstly, assess the colour difference using the grey scale(4.3). Secondly, assess the loss in material of the base coat and the change in colour of the top coat using the grey scale

44、(4.3). Record these assessments as the colour change after cleaning, the loss in material of the base coat of the finish after cleaning and the change in colour of the top coat of the finish after cleaning. Repeat the above for each combination of material, type and colour. 7.1.7 By visual compariso

45、n with the first test specimen, assess the second test specimen for the following: a) mechanical damage to the following: 1) the outer; 2) the trim; 3) the lining; 4) the stitching; b) loss of adhesion of seams and interlining; c) migration of adhesive; d) puckering of seams. Where no visual change

46、has taken place, record this as “no visual change”. Where a visual change has taken place, record a description of this change. Compare the texture, handle and surface appearance of the second test specimen with the texture, handle and surface appearance of the first test specimen. If the changes ar

47、e minimal, record this as “minimal change”. If the changes are too significant to be considered minimal, record this as “substantial change” and describe these changes. Record the assessments as “after cleaning” (and not as “after finishing” as in7.2.5). NOTEFor information relating to the term “min

48、imal change”, see Appendix B. 7.1.8 Depending on the colour change of all leather types and colours as determined in7.1.6, proceed in accordance with Table 2 in order to determine the best combination of bath and spray re-oiling (see7.1.2 and7.2.1 respectively) such that all leather components fall

49、between34 lighter and34 darker when examined in accordance with7.1.6. Table 2 Procedure to be followed Where the colour change of all leather types and colours is such that all do not fall into the same category in Table 2, decide which of the procedures in Table 2 is most likely to result in all of the leathercomponents lying between34 lighter and34 darker. Carry out this procedure using the third test specimen. 7.1.9 Record which test specimen (i.e.the second test specimen or the third test specimen) is to be tested further. Refer to this t