BS 4973-4-1990 Interlinings - Specification for woven sew-in interlinings《衬里 第4部分 织造缝入衬里规范》.pdf

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1、BRITISH STANDARD BS 4973-4: 1990 Interlinings Part 4: Specification for woven sew-in interliningsBS4973-4:1990 This British Standard, having been prepared under the directionof the Textiles and Clothing Standards Policy Committee, was published underthe authority of the BoardofBSI and comes into eff

2、ecton 31December1990 BSI 12-1999 First published October 1981 Second edition December 1990 The following BSI references relate to the work on this standard: Committee referenceTCM/5 Draft announced inBSI News September1990 ISBN 0 580 19052 8 Committees responsible for this British Standard The prepa

3、ration of this British Standard was entrusted by the Textiles and Clothing Standards Policy Committee (TCM/-) to Technical Committee TCM/5, upon which the following bodies were represented: British Interlining Manufacturers Association British Nonwovens Manufacturers Association British Railways Boa

4、rd Council of British Cotton Textiles (CBCT) Home Office London Regional Transport Ministry of Defence Textile Finishers Association Textile Research Council (FCRA) Amendments issued since publication Amd. No. Date CommentsBS4973-4:1990 BSI 12-1999 i Contents Page Committees responsible Inside front

5、 cover Foreword ii 1 Scope 1 2 Definitions 1 3 Construction and performance 1 4 Sampling 1 5 Testing 1 6 Marking 1 Appendix A Recommended fabrics for various end uses 3 Appendix B Supplementary information for MOD contracts (fabricreferencecross-reference information) 3 Table 1 Construction and perf

6、ormance 2 Table 2 Recommended fabrics for various end uses 3 Table 3 Cross-references between fabric references usedin BS4973-4,MODpattern numbers and NATO stock numbers 3 Publication(s) referred to Inside back coverBS4973-4:1990 ii BSI 12-1999 Foreword This Part of BS4973 has been prepared under th

7、e direction of the Textiles and Clothing Standards Policy Committee and is a revision of BS4973-4:1981 which is withdrawn. BS4973 is published in four Parts as follows: Part 1: Nonwoven sew-in interlinings; Part 2: Nonwoven fusible interlinings; Part 3: Woven and knitted fusible interlinings; Part 4

8、: Specification for woven sew-in interlinings. When BS4560 was revised in1980, it was agreed to limit its scope to lining fabrics and to prepare this Part of this British Standard to specify requirements for a range of woven sew-in interlinings selected from those interlinings specified in BS4560. B

9、S4973 is intended to provide a range of interlinings which will meet public and private sector requirements. It is intended that the interlinings specified in this standard should be used in conjunction with the linings specified in BS4560 and the outer fabrics specified in BS1771. Garment suppliers

10、 and purchasers should take account of all the environmental conditions (such as exposure to heat and water) likely to be met during use, to ensure the most suitable fabric is specified. Many properties cannot be specified objectively and cannot therefore be included in this standard. Examples of su

11、ch properties include colour, handle, appearance and details of additional design features. Purchasing authorities should be able to supply standard patterns which cover these properties and which may thus serve to resolve any ambiguities of description. A British Standard does not purport to includ

12、e all the necessary provisions of a contract. Users of British Standards are responsible for their correct application. Compliance with a British Standard does not of itself confer immunity from legal obligations. In particular, attention is drawn to Statutory Instrument1986 No.26, the Textile produ

13、cts (Indications of Fibre Content) Regulations1986. Summary of pages This document comprises a front cover, an inside front cover, pages i and ii, pages1 to 4, an inside back cover and a back cover. This standard has been updated (see copyright date) and may have had amendments incorporated. This wi

14、ll be indicated in the amendment table on the inside front cover.BS4973-4:1990 BSI 12-1999 1 1 Scope This Part of BS4973 specifies requirements for woven sew-in interlinings which are suitable for uniform clothing for use in, for example, the public sector. Construction and performance requirements

15、are given inTable 1.Appendix A gives recommended fabrics for various end uses. Supplementary information for MOD contracts is given inAppendix B. NOTEThe titles of the publications referred to in this Part of this British Standard are listed on the inside back cover. 2 Definitions For the purposes o

16、f this Part of BS4973 the definitions given in BS1903, BS4815 and BS6189 apply. 3 Construction and performance Fabrics shall comply withTable 1. Linen interlinings shall be made from fibre spun from retted flax. NOTE 1Yarns should be evenly spun, fabrics should be uniformly woven, and selvedges shou

17、ld be firm, straight and not of excessive thickness such as may cause build-up during laying-up for garment cutting. The colour and finish should be uniform throughout the fabric. NOTE 2Interested parties may agree that a flame retardant treatment may be applied, and may agree on the flammability pe

18、rformance which should be met and on the garment cleaning procedures. NOTE 3Interlinings made from fabrics complying with this standard should be satisfactory under normal conditions of use. If they are to be used in garments which will be subjected to frequent cleansing,e.g.firemens uniforms, then

19、allowances should be made for the effects such frequent cleansing treatments may have on certain of the fabric properties. Garment suppliers and purchasers should take account of all the environmental conditions (such as exposure to heat and water) likely to be met during use, to ensure the most sui

20、table fabric is specified. If dyed, interlinings shall, when tested in accordance with section DO1 of BS1006:1990 have a minimum rating for change in colour of4 and a minimum rating for staining of34. 4 Sampling A sample shall be taken either from each batch, or from at least every5000m of fabric, w

21、hichever is the more frequent. Each sample shall be large enough to provide test specimens for all of the tests indicated inTable 1. 5 Testing Tests shall be carried out on every sample. 6 Marking Fabrics shall bear the following information, for example on an invoice, or swing ticket on the piece o

22、r roll: a) the name, trade mark or other means of identification of the manufacturer; b) the number and date of this British Standard,i.e. BS4973-4:1990 1) ; c) instructions, for care and cleansing, in accordance with the recommendations and terminology of BS2747. NOTEIn addition the fabric should b

23、ear any other marking the contract or order may direct. 1) Marking BS4973-4:1990 on or in relation to a product represents a manufacturers declaration of conformity,i.e.a claim by or on behalf of the manufacturer that the product meets the requirements of the standard. The accuracy of the claim is t

24、herefore solely the responsibility of the person making the claim. Such a declaration is not to be confused with third party certification of conformity which may also be desirable.BS 4973-4:1990 2 BSI 12-1999 Table 1 Construction and performance Fabric reference Fibre type Weave Mass per unit area

25、a Minimum threads per centimetre Minimum breaking strength Maximum dimensional change Maximum total filling by mass Finish and other details Warp Weft Warp Weft Warp Weft g/m 2 N N % % % WS1 Linen Plain 140 19 21 600 460 2 2 10 Calendered WS2 Linen Plain 210 14 13 660 660 4 2 12.5 Crease-resistant f

26、inish WS3 Linen Plain 180 12 12 530 460 2 2 12.5 Crease-resistant finish WS4 Linen warp/jute weft 3 1 twill to left warp face 800 12 9 1780 2220 600 g/m 2before stiffening WS5 Cotton/hair Plain 310 17 11 600 380 2 2 Composition of finished fabric: warp, 46% cotton and12% filling weft,31% hair and11%

27、 viscose WS6 Linen Plain 190 18 20 730 600 4 2 5 Mangled Test method BS 2471 BS 2862 BS 2576 BS 4736 BS 4032 a Subject to a tolerance of +10, 3% on the specified mass per unit area.BS4973-4:1990 BSI 12-1999 3 Appendix A Recommended fabrics forvarious end uses Table 2 gives a list of recommended fabr

28、ics for various end uses. Table 2 Recommended fabrics for various end uses Appendix B Supplementary information for MOD contracts (fabricreference cross-reference information) Table 3 contains cross-reference information between the fabric references used in BS4973-4, MOD pattern numbers and NATO st

29、ock numbers. Table 3 Cross-references between fabric references used in BS4973-4, MOD pattern numbers and NATO stock numbers End use Component Recommended fabric (reference number) Interlinings Collar WS2, WS3, WS4 Cuffs WS1 Fly WS1 Fronts WS3, WS5 Shoulder straps WS4 Welts WS1 Waistbands WS3 Stays

30、Buttons WS1, WS6 Cuffs Foreparts Pockets NOTEThese recommendations are for guidance only and do not prohibit the use of the various interlinings for other purposes if so desired. Fabric reference Pattern number NATO stock number WS1 T551, T8443A 8305-99-942-7523 WS2 T506, T8445A 8305-99-942-7527 WS3

31、 T599, T8446A 8305-99-942-7521 WS4 T502, T8320A 8305-99-942-8282 WS5 T622, T8343A 8305-99-942-7003 WS6 T552, T8063A 8305-99-942-75264 blankBS4973-4:1990 BSI 12-1999 Publication(s) referred to BS 1006, Methods of test for colour fastness of textiles and leather. BS 1771, Fabrics for uniforms and work

32、wear 2) . BS 1903, Glossary of terms used by the clothing industry. BS 2471, Methods of test for textilesWoven fabricsDetermination of mass per unit length and mass per unit area. BS 2576, Method for determination of breaking strength and elongation (strip method) of woven fabrics. BS 2747, Code of

33、practice for textile care labelling. BS 2862, Methods for determination of number of threads per unit length. BS 4032, Method of test for the determination of certain water- or alkali-soluble additives in cellulosic or synthetic fibres, yarns and fabrics or yarns and fabrics made from blends of such

34、 fibres. BS 4560, Specification for fabrics for linings in uniform clothing. BS 4736, Method for determination of dimensional changes of fabrics induced by cold-water immersion. BS 4815, Glossary of generic names for man-made fibres. BS 4973, Interlinings 2) . BS 4973-1, Nonwoven sew-in interlinings

35、. BS 4973-2, Nonwoven fusible interlinings. BS 4973-3, Woven and knitted fusible interlinings. BS 6189, Glossary of terms relating to fabrics and associated fibres, yarns and processes. Statutory Instrument1986 No.26, the Textile products (Indications of Fibre Content) Regulations1986. 2) Referred t

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