SANS 304-2008 Linen threads for footwear《鞋类用麻线》.pdf

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1、 Collection of SANS standards in electronic format (PDF) 1. Copyright This standard is available to staff members of companies that have subscribed to the complete collection of SANS standards in accordance with a formal copyright agreement. This document may reside on a CENTRAL FILE SERVER or INTRA

2、NET SYSTEM only. Unless specific permission has been granted, this document MAY NOT be sent or given to staff members from other companies or organizations. Doing so would constitute a VIOLATION of SABS copyright rules. 2. Indemnity The South African Bureau of Standards accepts no liability for any

3、damage whatsoever than may result from the use of this material or the information contain therein, irrespective of the cause and quantum thereof. ISBN 978-0-626-21094-6 SANS 304:2008Edition 3.1Any reference to SABS 304 is deemedto be a reference to this standard(Government Notice No. 1373 of 8 Nove

4、mber 2002)SOUTH AFRICAN NATIONAL STANDARD Linen threads for footwear Published by Standards South Africa 1 dr lategan road groenkloof private bag x191 pretoria 0001 tel: 012 428 7911 fax: 012 344 1568 international code + 27 12 www.stansa.co.za Standards South Africa SANS 304:2008 Edition 3.1 Table

5、of changes Change No. Date Scope Amdt 1 2008 Amended to change the designation from SABS to SANS, with no technical changes. Foreword This South African standard was approved by National Committee StanSA SC 5110.01R, Textile Threads, ropes, cordage and netting, in accordance with procedures of Stand

6、ards South Africa, in compliance with annex 3 of the WTO/TBT agreement. This document was published in April 2008. This document supersedes SABS 304:2002 (edition 3). SANS 304:2008 Edition 3.1 1 Contents Page Foreword 1 Scope . 3 2 Normative references . 3 3 Definitions 4 4 Requirements . 4 5 Sampli

7、ng, inspection and methods of test . 5 5.1 Sampling and compliance with the standard . 5 5.2 Inspection 6 5.3 Test specimens . 6 5.4 Fibre composition 6 5.5 Thread twist . 6 5.6 Yarn tenacity and extension at break 6 5.7 Loop tenacity . 7 5.8 Rotproofing 7 5.9 Weathering 7 6 Packing and marking. 8 A

8、nnex A (normative) Notes to purchasers 9 Annex B (informative) Equivalent values in gram-force per tex . 9 Annex C (informative) Quality verification of linen threads for footwear . 9 Bibliography 10 SANS 304:2008 Edition 3.1 2 This page is intentionally left blank SANS 304:2008 Edition 3.1 3 Linen

9、threads for footwear 1 Scope This standard covers linen threads suitable for use in the manufacture of footwear. 2 Normative references The following standards contain provisions which, through reference in this text, constitute provisions of this standard. All standards are subject to revision and,

10、 since any reference to a standard is deemed to be a reference to the latest edition of that standard, parties to agreements based on this standard are encouraged to take steps to ensure the use of the most recent editions of the standards indicated below. Information on currently valid national and

11、 international standards can be obtained from the South African Bureau of Standards. AATCC method 20, Fiber analysis: Qualitative. Available from World Wide Web SANS 70, Conditioning of textiles and standard temperate atmosphere for determining their physical and mechanical properties. SANS 481, Acc

12、elerated weathering of textiles: artificial light and water spray exposure method. SANS 2061/ISO 2061, Textiles Determination of twist in yarns Direct counting method. SANS 2062/ISO 2062, Textiles Yarns from packages Determination of single-end breaking force and elongation at break. SANS 5117, Form

13、ulae used in statistical analysis. SANS 5277 (SABS SM 277), Resistance to attack by chaetomium globosum. SANS 5326, Skein strength and tenacity, and linear density of spun textile yarns on packages. SANS 5469 (SABS SM 469), Soil burial. SANS 6007, Balance of twist of textile threads. SANS 10004, Ter

14、ms and definitions for textiles and textile merchandise. SANS 304:2008 Edition 3.1 4 3 Definitions For the purposes of this standard, the definitions given in SANS 10004 and the following definitions apply: 3.1 acceptable acceptable to the authority administering this standard or to the parties conc

15、luding the purchase contract, as relevant 3.2 package unit a spool, cone, or cheese carrying thread for footwear 4 Requirements 4.1 General Linen threads shall be a) of acceptable uniform make, width, colour and finish, b) delivered in a clean and commercially dry condition, and c) free from defects

16、 that can impair the appearance or serviceability (or both). 4.2 Composition When tested in accordance with 5.4, threads for footwear shall be made from 100 % linen. 4.3 Twist 4.3.1 Balance of twist The balance of twist of the thread, determined in accordance with 5.5.1, shall not exceed 2,0 turns i

17、n the loop. 4.3.2 Twist variation The coefficient of variation of the turns per metre, determined in accordance with 5.5.2, shall not exceed 6 % for plied threads and 3 % for cable-type threads. 4.3.3 Direction of twist The direction of twist shall be as specified by the purchaser (see annex A). 4.4

18、 Yarn tenacity and loop tenacity When determined in accordance with 5.6 and 5.7 respectively, the yarn tenacity shall be at least 2,6 cN/dtex, and the loop tenacity shall be at least 3,3 cN/dtex. SANS 304:2008 Edition 3.1 5 4.5 Extension at break The extension at break of the thread, determined in a

19、ccordance with 5.6.1, shall not exceed 9 %. 4.6 Colour The colour of the thread shall be as specified by the purchaser (see annex A). 4.7 Rotproofing When so specified by the purchaser (see annex A), linen threads shall be rotproof. Rotproof threads shall comply with the following requirements: a) A

20、fter weathering: When tested in accordance with 5.8.1, the breaking strength of the exposed rotproof thread shall be not less than the breaking strength of the unexposed rotproof thread as determined in accordance with 5.6.1. b) After weathering and fungal attack (Chaetomium globosum): When tested i

21、n accordance with 5.8.2, the breaking strength of the rotproof thread shall be at least 80 % of the breaking strength of the rotproof thread after weathering (see 4.7(a). c) After weathering and soil burial: When tested in accordance with 5.8.3, the breaking strength of the rotproof thread shall be

22、at least 80 % of the breaking strength of the rotproof thread after weathering (see 4.7(a). 5 Sampling, inspection and methods of test 5.1 Sampling and compliance with the standard 5.1.1 Sampling The following sampling procedure shall be applied in determining whether a lot complies with the relevan

23、t requirements of this standard. The samples so taken shall be deemed to represent the lot for the respective properties. After inspection for compliance with the requirements of clause 6, draw at random from the lot as indicated in table 1. Table 1 Sampling 1 2 Lot size Number of samples From lots

24、of size not exceeding 10 000 package units 1 package from each 500 package units (or part thereof) but take at least 2 package units From lots of size exceeding 10 000 package units 20 package units plus 1 package unit for each 1 000 package units (or part thereof) by which the lot size exceeds 10 0

25、00 package units 5.1.2 Compliance with the standard The lot shall be deemed to comply with the requirements of the standard if, after inspection and testing of the samples taken in accordance with 5.1.1, no defective is found. SANS 304:2008 Edition 3.1 6 5.2 Inspection Visually inspect the linen thr

26、eads in the sample for compliance with the appropriate requirements given in 4.1, 4.3.3 and 4.6. 5.3 Test specimens Condition the test samples in accordance with SANS 70, and then cut from them the test specimens for the tests given in 5.4 to 5.9 (inclusive). 5.4 Fibre composition Use AATCC method 2

27、0. 5.5 Thread twist 5.5.1 Balance of twist Use SANS 6007. 5.5.2 Twist variation Use SANS 2061 to determine the number of turns per metre of final folding twist in each of the specimens used in 5.5.1, and use SANS 5117 to calculate from the 20 results so obtained, the coefficient of variation of the

28、turns per metre for the thread on each package unit. 5.6 Yarn tenacity and extension at break 5.6.1 Breaking strength and extension at break Use SANS 2062. Determine the extension at break to the nearest 2 mm. 5.6.2 Linear density Use SANS 5326 and express the result in dtex. 5.6.3 Calculation of ya

29、rn tenacity Calculate the yarn tenacity as follows: Yarn tenacity = CBwhere B is the breaking strength, in centinewtons; C is the linear density, in decitex. SANS 304:2008 Edition 3.1 7 5.7 Loop tenacity 5.7.1 Loop strength Use SANS 2062 except that a) a pair of specimens shall be used for each test

30、, b) the ends of one specimen shall be brought together to form a loop and then fastened in the top jaw so that the loop hangs approximately half way between the top and bottom jaws, c) the second specimen shall be passed through the loop, the ends shall be fastened in the bottom jaw, and d) the ini

31、tial tension shall be 2,2 N. 5.7.2 Calculation of loop tenacity Calculate the loop tenacity as follows: Loop tenacity = CBwhere B is the loop breaking strength, in centinewtons; C is the linear density, in decitex. 5.8 Rotproofing 5.8.1 After weathering From each test sample taken, cut 20 specimens

32、as described in SANS 2062, weather them in accordance with 5.9, and then determine the breaking strengths, using SANS 2062. 5.8.2 After weathering and fungal attack (Chaetomium globosum) From each test sample taken, cut 20 specimens as described in SANS 2062. Weather them in accordance with 5.9, and

33、 then test them in accordance with SANS 5277 except that SANS 2062 shall be used to determine the breaking strengths. 5.8.3 After weathering and soil burial From each test sample taken, cut 20 specimens as described in SANS 2062. Weather them in accordance with 5.9, and then test them in accordance

34、with SANS 5469 except that SANS 2062 shall be used to determine the breaking strengths. 5.9 Weathering Use SANS 481 but expose for 100 h. SANS 304:2008 Edition 3.1 8 6 Packing and marking 6.1 Packing Threads for footwear shall be supplied in package units of the type specified by the purchaser (see

35、annex A). The package units shall be packed in containers. Only thread of the same linear density, ply, colour, direction of twist, finish, and type of package unit shall be packed together in one container. 6.2 Marking 6.2.1 Marking on package units The following information shall appear in legible

36、 and indelible marking on a label securely attached to each package unit: a) the manufacturers name or trademark (or both); b) the composition; c) the ticket number, ply, and direction of twist; d) the colour; and e) the length of thread in metres. 6.2.2 Marking on containers The following informati

37、on shall appear in legible and indelible marking on the outside of each container: a) the manufacturers name or trademark (or both); b) the composition; c) the ticket number, ply, and direction of twist; d) the colour; e) the total net mass or total length; f) the total number of package units and l

38、ength of thread on each unit; and g) the type of package unit. 6.3 Additional marking When so required (see annex A), packages or bulk containers (or both) shall bear information additional to that specified in 6.2.1 and 6.2.2. SANS 304:2008 Edition 3.1 9 Annex A (normative) Notes to purchasers The

39、following requirements shall be specified in tender invitations and in each order or contract: a) the direction of twist (see 4.3.3); b) the colour (see 4.6); c) when relevant, that rotproof thread is required (see 4.7); d) the method of packing (see 6.1); and e) additional marking, if required (see

40、 6.3). Annex B (informative) Equivalent values in gram-force per tex 1 cN = 1,0197 gram-force The requirement for yarn tenacity is 26,51 gram-force/tex, and that for loop tenacity is 33,65 gram-force/tex. Annex C (informative) Quality verification of linen threads for footwear When a purchaser requi

41、res ongoing verification of the quality of linen threads for footwear, it is suggested that, instead of concentrating solely on evaluation of the final product, he also direct his attention to the manufacturers quality system. In this connection it should be noted that SANS 9001 covers the provisions of an integrated quality system. SANS 304:2008 Edition 3.1 10 Bibliography SANS 9001/ISO 9001, Quality management systems Requirements. Standards South Africa