NAVY MIL-U-28946 B-1994 UNIFORM WOMEN-S WHITE DRESS (OFFICER-S)《白色外衣女士制服(官员的)》.pdf

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1、9999906 I1984806 198 = . UN I FOWL, MILITARY WOMANS: SPECIFICATION WHITE; DRESS (OFFICERS) KIL-U-S8946B(MC) 23 May 1994 SUPERSEDING KIL-U-28946A(MC) - 4 May 1981 This specification is approved for use by the U. S. Marine Corps, Department of the Navy, and is available for use by all Departments and

2、Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1- SCOPE 1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for a womans white dress uniform, consisting of coat and skirt. 1.2 Classification. The uniform shall be of one type in the following sizes, as specified (see 6.2): Scheuie of Sizes - Short xo 2 4 o

3、 8 10 12 14 16 18 Remlar xo 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 16 Lona xo 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 - Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to the Commander (PSE-C), Marine Corps Systems Command, Quantico,

4、VA 22134-5010 by using the self addressed Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appea, ring at the end of this docment or by letter. W-SC N/k FSC 8410 DISTRIBUTIOK STATE-XENT A. Appxovea for public release; distribution is unlimitea. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproductio

5、n or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-. MIL-U-28946B(MC) 1.3 Individual orders. Wnen uniforms are custom tailored to an individual order, this specification shall govern, except that the detail requirements of Section 3, Table I, may be modified to the extent necessary for good cust

6、om tailoring practice. 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 Government documents. 2.1.1 Specifications, standards and handbooks. The following specifications, standards and handbooks form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents sh

7、all be those listed ir, the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL A-A- 5 O 13 5 A-A-50 186 A-A-5 O 19 8 A-A-5 O 19 9 A-A-52 O 9 4 A-A-5 2 1 O 6 V-B-871 V-F-1 O 6 V-T-285 DD

8、D-L-2 O DDD-T-86 MILITARY MIL-C-36 8 MIL-B-3461 MIL-T-5237 MIL-C-15062 MIL-P-15064 MIL-C-17757 EIL-C-29137 MIL-C-4 182 O - Cloth, Interlining, Polyester - Cloth, Buckram, Woven and Nonwoven - Thread, Ginp, Cotton, Buttonhole - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester - Thread, Cotton - Cloth, Twi

9、ll, Polyester or Polyester Blend - Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple - Fastener, Slide, Interlocking - Thread, Polyester - Label; For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, - Tape, Textile Cotton, General Purpose Covered (Plastic ) (General Use) (Unbleached, Bleached or Dyed) - Cloth, Satin, Rayon a

10、nd Cloth, Twill, Rayon - Buttons, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Cap - Tape, Textile, Webbing, Rayon - Cloth, Flannel, Wool, Undercollzr Cloth - Pads, Shoulder and Sleeve-Head - Box, Shipping, Fiberboard, (Modular Sizes) - Cloth, Felt Fabric, Composite Undercollar - Cloth, Gabardine, Polyester and Ray

11、on 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- flIL-U-2894bB 9999906 1984808 TbO m STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-191 FED-STD-751 STANDARDS MILITARY MIL-STD-129 MIL-STD-984 MIL-STD-1608 MIL-STD-1609 - Textile Test - Stitches, Seams and Stitchings -

12、 Marking for Shipment and Storage - Provisions for Size Labeling of Womens - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Coats, - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Skirts, Uniform Clothing Womens, Dress Womens, Dress (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of federal and military specifications, standards a

13、nd handbooks are available from the Standardization Documents arder Desk, Bldg 4D, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094). 2.1.2 Other Government Dublications. The following other Government publication forms a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise spe

14、cified, the issues shall be those in effect on the date of the solicitation. Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Color Card for Sewing Threads 1968 Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Shades for Buttons 1966 (Application for copies should be addressed to the Color Association of the United States,

15、 Inc., 200 Madison Avenue, New York, NY 10016). (Copies of specifications, standards and publications required by contractors in connection with specific acquisition functions should be obtained from the contracting activity or as directed by the contracting officer). 2.2 Non-Government Dublications

16、. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DoD adopted shall be those listed in the issue of the DODISS specified in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not

17、 listed in the DODISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-U-2894bB 9999906 1984807 9T7 KIL-U-28946B(MC) LbXRICAK SOCIETY 3F TESTING A.“ KLTERIkLS ASTK D 3951 - Sta

18、ndard Practice for Commercial Packaging (Application for copies should be addressed to American Society for Testing and Materials, 1916 Race Street, Philadelphia, PA 19103). (Non-Government standards and other publications are normally available from the organizations that prepare or distribute the

19、documents. These documents may also be available in or through libraries or Dther informational services). 2.3 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, tne text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, howe

20、ver, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption had been obtained. 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1 Guide sample. Guide samples are furnished solely for guidance and Variation from this specification information to the contractor (see 6.3). may appear in the sample, in which case the

21、specification shall govern. When specified (see 6.2), the contractor shall furnish sample unit(s) for first article inspection and approval (see 4.4 and 6.4). 3.2 First article. 3.3 Materials. 3.3.1 Basic material. The basic materiel shzll Se cloth gabardine, polyester-rayon, 8 ounce, white shade 24

22、00 (see 6.4), confoming tc type III, class I of MIL-C-41820. 3.3.2 Lininq. The materisl for lining the coat and skirt shall be cloth, rayon twill, 3.7 ounce, white shade 2414 conforming to class i of MIL-C-368. 3.3.3 Interlininq. The material for interlining the coat fronts and shoulder straps shall

23、 be cloth, polyester, 3.4 ounce, white color conforming to A-A-50135. 3.3.4 Undercollar material. Tne undercollar material shall be cloth, wool flannel conforming to MIL-C-15062. The material shall be dyed a shade approximating the shade of the basic materials specified in 3.3.1, and shall show good

24、 colorfastness to wet (dry) cleaning. The acidity (pH) requirement and colorfastness to perspiration and crocking requirements shall not apply. As an alternate, a composite undercollar fabric confo-ming to MIL-C-29137 may be used in a shade approximating the shaae of the basic material specified in

25、3.3.1. 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-U-Z94bB m 99999Ob L9B4BLO bL m I MIL-U-28946B(MC) 3.3.5 Coller intelininq material. The collar interlining material for all classes shall be cloth, cotton buckram, natural or white shade co

26、nforming to type I, class 2 of A-A-50186, except that the test for shrinkage shall be in accordance with Method 5580 of FED-STD-191. 3.3.6 Polyester twill. The material for the simulated pocket stay, armhole seam and shoulder seam of the coat and the top ply of the watch pocket and waistband interli

27、ning of the skirt shall be cloth, polyester twill, shade white, conforming to class 1 of A-A-52106. Cloth shall be bias cut for shoulder and armhole stays. 3.3.7 Bias binding. The binding for the underarm shields, bottom turnup, and for making coat and skirt hangers shall be bias cut from the lining

28、 material specified in 3.3.2. The binding shall be cut 5/8 to 3/4 inch wide and shall have sized edges. 3.3.8 TaRe rayon. The material for finishing the bottom edge of the skirt and for reinforcing the folded edge of pocket welt shall be tape, textile, webbing, rayon, 1/2 inch wide, white, conformin

29、g to type I of MIL-T-5237. 3.3.9 Cotton tape. The cotton tape used for armholes, bridle tape and fronts shall co;iform to type III, class 1 of DDD-T-86, and shall be 1/4 inch wide. 3.3.10 Shoulder pads. Shoulder pads shall conform to type III, class 4 of MIL-P-15064 and they shall be white in color.

30、 3.3.11 Thread. 3.3.11.1 Polvester thread. The polyester thread for machine seaming and stitching and for hand felling shall be white, soft finish, size A, 3-ply, conforming to type I, class 1 of V-T-285. 3.3.11.2 Cotton thread. The cotton thread for making eyelets and buttonholes shall be white (bl

31、eached) mercerized finish ticket No. 36, 2-ply conforming to type III of A-A-52094. The thread for sewing on buttons shall be ticket No. 24, 4-ply conforming to type I or II of A-A-52094. Thread for basting shall be a good commercial grade. As an alternative for cotton thread, a polyester cotton cov

32、ered thread conforming to A-A-50199, ticket No. 50, 2 or 3 ply may be used. 3.3.12 GR. The buttonhole gimp shall be cotton thread, white (bleached) soft or glazed finish conforming to type I or II, size 8 of A-A-50198. 3.3. i3 Buttons. 3.3.13.1 Insiqnia buttons. The insignia buttons shall be metal,

33、gold plated, conforming to type I, style 3, class A, subclass 1 of MIL-B-3461. Buttons shall be 40-line for front closure of coat, and 27-line for shoulder straps, c.11 regular shank. 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-. MIL-U-28946B(M

34、C) 3.3.13.2 Sewinq hole buttons. The sewing buttons for the skirt shall be melamine formaldehyde composition, 27-line, conforming to type 11, class D, style 4 of V-B-871. The color of the buttons shall be white shade BA, Cable No. 62031 and shall have a glossy finish. 3.3.14 Slide fastener. The slid

35、e fastener for the skirt shall be brass, white metal finish, 7 inches in length, interlocking nonseparating automatic lock, open top stop, closed bottom stop, single slider with short tab pull conforming to type I, style 3, size 1, of V-F-106. The tape shall be cotton and the color shall be white. 3

36、.3.15 Labels. Each coat and skirt shall have a combination identification-instruction label, and a size label. The uniform is intended to be “Dry Cleaned Only“ and the labels shall show fastness to dry cleaning. 3.3.15.1 Identification-instruction label (combinedl. The identification- instruction la

37、bel shall conform to type VI, classes 1 and 3 (combined) of DDD-L-20 and shall measure not less than 5-1/2 by 2-1/2 inches. The content and format shall be as follows: Nomenclature (item description) Contract number Name of contractor Fiber Contents Act information where required NOTE: It is recomme

38、nded that the uniform be dry cleaned only. 3.3.15.2 Size label. The size label shall conform to type VI, class 2 of DDD-L-20 except the stock number is not required. The inscription on the size label shall conform to MIL-STD-984; Table II Body Dimensions for Marine Corps, Table III Height Ranges and

39、 Figure 2. Examples of labels are as follows: Hip Circ 36 I Waist Circ 25 1/2“ Height 63-1/2 to 67“ (R) (Size Code 6) 3.4 Decian. The uniform consisting of coat and skirt, shall be of the U. S. Marine Corps design shown in Figures 1 through 6 and as follows: 3.4.1 Coat. The coat shall be the U. S. M

40、arine Corps design shown in Figures 1, 2 and 3, four button, single breasted, semiformfitting, and fully lined; with four front panels and four back panels with center back vent; breast pocket with outside welt; worked eyelets in shoulders and left front for removable insignia buttons; shoulder stra

41、ps to button, ornamental sleeve cuffs; notched collar and lapel with worked eyelet in each end of collar for branch of service insignia. The coat shall have a sword slit cut in the left front panel at the waist, when required by the contract or purchase order. 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo repro

42、duction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-NIL-U-2894bB = 9999906 1984812 491 W HIL-U-S8946B(MC) 3.4.2 Skirt. The skirt shall be a gore style and fully lined, hTith three front panels and two back panels, having an opening at the top of the center back with slide fastener closure,

43、and one piece set-on waistband with both ends to button at tne center back opening. The skirt shall have a center back pleat and the bottom shall be pinked. Figures 4, 5 and 6 show design. 3.5 Patterns. Standard patterns will be furnished by the Government. The standard patterns shall not be altered

44、 in any way and shall be used as a guide only for cutting the contractors working patterns. The contractors working patterns shall be identical to the standard patterns. The standard patterns provide the following seam allowances: Coat L/ Seams at edges of lapels, shoulder straps, collar and 3/16 in

45、ch front edges of the coat. Front and back seams. 3/8 inch Side seams. 3/4 inch Center back seam. 5/8 inch Skirt Front and back seams. 3/4 inch Side seams, 1 inch Bottom turnup zllowance. 3 inches - i/ Table I. 3/8 inch allowance for all other seams except as otherwise specified in Standard patterns

46、 show size and seam allowances and are marked and notched for proper cutting, placement and assembly of component parts. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-HIL-U-2894bB 9999906 1984813 328 MIL-U-S8946B(MC) 3.5.1 List of pattern parts. Th

47、e uniforms shall be cut from the materials specified herein in accordance with the pattern parts indicated below: Pattern nomenclature No. of Item Material: Cloth, polyester rayon cut parts Coat 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. Front Side front Front facing (right) Front facing (left)

48、Center back Side back Top collar Topsleeve Undersleeve Sleeve cuff Shoulder straps Breast pocket welt Underarm shield Sword slit tab 2 2 1 1 2 2 1 2 2 2 4 1 2 1 Material: Cloth, polvester ravon Skirt 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. Center front Side front Back Waistband Placket piece Watch pocket (Bottom pl

49、y) Material: Cloth, twill, ravon Ilinins) Coat 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. 26. 27. 28. 29. Front Right center back Left center back Side back Top sleeve Under sleeve Front Left back Right back Skirt 1 1 1 8 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-U-2894bB m 9999906 1984814 264 m Material: Cloth, interlininc, p o1 yes ter Coat 30. 31. Front Shoulder strap 2 2