NAVY MIL-S-87060 B-1988 SHIRTS UTILITY MEN-S CHAMBRAY《男式格纹效用衫》.pdf

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1、MIL-S-87060B( NU) 19 February 1988 SUPERSEDING MIL-S-87060A(NU) 10 September 1984 MILITARY SPECIFICATION SHIRTS, UTILITY, MENS, CHAMBRAY This specification is approved for use by the Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, Department of the Navy, and is available for use by all Departments and

2、Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for chambray work shirts. 1.2 classification. The shirt shall be in the following types and sizes (see 6;2). i c c * 1.2.1 Types. Type I - Short Sleeve, Polyester/Cotton Type II - Long Sleeve, Polye

3、ster/Cotton - . # -.- _- . Type III - Long Sleeve, Cotton, Flame Resistant 1.2.2 Sizes. Extra Small (13 - 13 1/2) Small (14 - 14 1/2) Medium (15 - 15 1/2) Large (16 - 16 1/2) X-Large (17 - 17 1/2) 1.2.3 Schedule of sleeve lengths (Type I shir-s). The Type and III shirts shall be furnished in sleeve

4、lengths of 32, 34 and 36 (see 3.8). and Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Officer in Charge, Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, 21 Strathmore Road, Natick, MA 01760-2490

5、by using the self-addressed Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. FSC 8405 msc NIA DISTRIBUTION STATEbIENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is un1 imi t ed . THIS DOCUMENT CONTAINS 2r-l PAGES. Provided by IHSNot f

6、or ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-87060B( NU) 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 Government document s. * 2.1.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this specification to the extent

7、specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation. SPEC IF ICATIONS FEDERAL V-B-87 1 NN-P-7 1 DDD-L-20 MILITARY M

8、IL-P-15011 MIL-B-17 7 5 7 MIL-C-24916 MIL-T-43548 MIL-(2-87065 STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-751 MILITARY MIL-STD-105 MIL-STD-129 MIL-STD-147 MIL-STD-1492 - Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple (Plastic) - Pallets, Material Handling, Wood, Stringer - Label; for Clothing, Equipage and Tentage (General

9、 Construction, 2 Way and 4 Way (Partial) Use) - Pallet, Material Handling, Wood Post Construction, - Box, Shipping Fi berboard (Modular Sizes) - Cloth, Chambray, Cotton (Flame Retardant Treated) - Thread, Polyester Core: Cotton-, Rayon-, or - Cloth, Chambray, Polyester and Cotton 4-Way Entry Polyest

10、er-Covered - Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by - Marking for Shipment and Storage - Palletized Unit Loads - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Shirts Attributes (Copies of specifications, standards, drawings, and publications required by contractors

11、 in connection with specific procurement functions should be obtained from the procuring activity or as directed by the contracting officer). * 2.1.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part 2 Provided by

12、 IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues shall be those in effect on the date of the solicitation. LAWS AND REGULATIONS P U. S. POSTAL SERVICE MANUAL (Copies of

13、the manual may be obtained from the Superintendent OF Documents, U.S, Government Printing Office, Washington, D.C. 20402-0001.) * 2.2 Other publications. The following document(s) form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issue of the DODICS sp

14、ecified in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DODISS shall be the issue solicitation. issues of the documents which are DOD adopted shall be those listed in the a of the nongovernment documents which is current on the date of the NATIONAL MOTOR FR

15、EIGHT TRAFFIC ASCOCIATION, INC., AGENT National Motor Freight Classification (Applications or copies should be addressed to the American Trucking Association, ATTN: Traffic Department, 1616 P Street, N.W., Washington, DC 20036-1404.) UNIFORM CLASSIFICATION COMMITTEE, AGENT -_ . - -_ Uniform Freight

16、Classification (Applications for copies should be addressed to the Uniform Classif icatioa Committee, Room 1106, 222 South Riverside Plaza, Chicago, Illinois 60606-5808.) THE COLOR ASSOCIATION OF THE UNITED STATES Standard Shades for Buttons St andard Shades for Threads (Applications for copies of c

17、olor cards should be addressed to The Color Association of the U.S., 343 Lexington Ave. , New York, NY 10016.) * 2.3 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this specification and the references cited herein, the text of this specification shall take precedence. Nothing i

18、n this specification, however, shall supersede applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1 Guide sample. Samples, when furnished, are solely .for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variations from this specification may appear

19、 in the sample in which case this specification shall govern. 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-_I - - - NIL-S-7060B 4 9999906 0410624 O 3.2 First article. When specified, the contractor shall furnish sample unit(s) for first article

20、inspection and approval (see 4.3 and 6.2). 3.3 Material. 3.3.1 Basic material. 3.3.1.1 Type I and II. The basic material for the Type I and Type II shirt shall be a 50%/polyester/50%/cotton chambray material conforming to MIL-C-87065. The color shall be shade Blue 3372. 3.3.1.2 Type III. The basic m

21、aterial for the Type III shirt shall be a flame retardant treated cotton chambray conforming to MIL-C-24916. The color shall be shade Blue 3372. 3.3.2 Thread * 3.3.2.1 Thread, polyester core. The thread for all shirts shall be a polyester core thread, shade Blue, C.A. 66091, in accordance with the S

22、tandard Shades for Threads, conforming to MIL-T-43548, except that the polyester covering shall not be used. Two or 3 ply thread may be used for all ticket numbers. * 3.3.2.2 Thread size. The following thread sizes shall be used with the appropriate stitch type: Stitch type 30 1 40 1 503, 504, 602 5

23、15, 516, 519 Button sewing Bart ack Thread size Needle Bobbin/looper 50 50 50 70 70 70 50 70 (chain) 70 70 (overedging) 50 50 50 - * 3.3.2.3 Colorfastness. The dyed thread of 3.3.2.1 shall show colorfastness to light and laundering equal to or better than the .standard sample when tested as specifie

24、d in MIL-T-43548. As a limit of acceptability or when no standard sample is available, the dyed thread of 3.3.2.1 shall show a minimum of “good“ colorfastness to light and laundering when tested as specified in MIL-T-43548. 3.3.3 Buttons. The buttons shall be 20-line, conforming to Type II, Class Th

25、e color of the button shall be Blue, C.A. 62037, in D, style 29 of V-B-871. accordance with the Standard Shades for Buttons. 3.3.4 Label. * 3.3.4.1 Combination label. Each shirt shall have a combination identification, instruction and personal label conforming to Type III, IV, or Type VI, Classes 10

26、 and 15 of DDD-L-20. The marking shall show colorfastness to laundering. The inscr-iption and format shall be as follows: 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-* * MIL-S-870bOB 84 - 777770b 0430625 2 MIL-S-87060B(NU) TYDe I and II Shirt L

27、abel NAME : SERVICE NO: SHIRTS, UTILITY, MENS CHAMBRAY - TYPE II (Example) FIBER CONTENT: 50% Cotton/50% Polyester CONTRACT NO. DLA-100-00-0-0000 (Example) NAME OF CONTRACTOR: NAME OF MANUFACTURER: (If other than contractor) LAUNDERING INSTRUCTIONS Machine Wash, Hot Water, No Bleach Tumble Dry, Medi

28、um Heat Remove Promptly or Follow NAVEDTRA Manual 414-01-45-81, Formula II Type III Shirt Label NAME : SERVICE NO: SHIRTS, UTILITY, MENS CHAMBRAY - TYPE III FIBER CONTENT: 100% Cotton (Flame retardant treated) CONTRACT NO. DLA-100-00-0-0000 (Example) NAME OF CONTRACTOR: NAME OF MANUFACTURER: (If oth

29、er than contractor) LAUNDERING INSTRUCTIONS Machine Wash, Hot Water NO STARCH, NO BLEACH Tumble Dry, Medium Heat Remove Promptly or Follow NAVEDTRA Manual 414-01-45-81, Formula II The printed label should use uppercase letters, bold print and underlining as indicated above. 3.3,4.2 Size label. Each

30、shirt shall have a size label conforming to Type III, IV or VI, Class 2 of DDD-L-20: The inscription shall be as follows: Type I Shirt M - (Example) STOCK NO. 8405-00-000-0000 (Example) Type II or III shirts M - 34SL (Example) STOCK NO. 8405-00-000-0000(Example) Abbreviations for the applicable size

31、 shall be XS for Extra Small; S for Small; M for Medium; L for Large; XL for Extra Large; and SL for Sleev Length. E Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-870bOB 84 7777706 0420626 4 MIL-S-87060B(NU) 3.4 Design, The Type II and 11 lon

32、g sleeve shirts shall be made with a convertible collar and have a seven Button front (Extra Small and Small shall have a six button front), shir tails and two outside breast patch pockets with buttoned clown flaps. The collar, pocket flaps and cuffs shall be interlined with basic material. The cqua

33、red-off sleeve cuffs shall have two buttons on each cuff and the sleeve openings shall have a contfnuous binding (see Figure 2). The Type I shirt shall be similar in design and construction features except that it shall have short sleeves (see Figure i), 3.4.1 Figures. Figures are furnished or infor

34、mation purposes ony. To the extent of any inconsistencies between the specifietion and the figures, the specification shall govern. * 3.5 Patterns. Standard patterns to be used to cut working patterns will be furnished by the Government (see 6.31, The working patterns shall be identical to the Gover

35、nment patterns. Neither the Government patterns nor the working patterns shall be altered in any way, except that additional notches for use during construction are allowed on the working patterns. The patterns provide an allowance of 3/8 inch fol: safety stitched seams and 5/16 inch for Collarassem

36、bIy and joining to neck. Unless otherwise indicated in Table I, seams shall be in accordance with these seam allowances. * 3.5.1 Pattern parts, The component parts shall be cut from the material as specified and in accordance with the following list of pattern parts: Material Pattern Parts Cut Part

37、c Basic material Back 1 Front (left and right) 2 Type I (short) 2 Type II and III (long) 2 Collar (top and under) 2 Cuff (Type II and III) 4 i/ Sleeve binding (Type II and III) 2 a - Pocket (pat ch) 2 Pocket (patch) alternate 2 Pocket flap 4 Cuff interlining 2 Pocket flap interlining 2 Col 1 ar in t

38、 er1 ini ng Temp1 at es Template finished pocket - Template finished flap - S1 eeves 1 - i/ When one piece cuff is utilized, delete seam allowance to meet requirements . - 2/ See operation 9e when sleeve binding pattern is not used and sleeve binding is rolled. 3.6 Construction. 6 Provided by IHSNot

39、 for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-87060B(NU) 3.6.1 Stitches, seams and stitchings. Stitch, seam and stitching types, as specified in Table I shall conform to the requirements of FED-STD-751. Whenever two or more methods for seams or stitchings are

40、given or the same operation, any one of them may be used. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, runoffs, twists, pleats, puckers, or open seams result. Ai1 seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there is no tight or loose s

41、titching. Where stitch type 401 is used, the looper (underthread) shali be on the inside of the shirt. Ends of all seams produced by stitch type 401 shall be caught in other seams or stitchings. The width of the safety stitch shall be 3/8 inch and the guides and knives on the safety stitch machine s

42、hall be set to trim only the raveled ends of the fabric. 3.6.2 Stitches per inch. The minimum and maximum number of stitches per inch shall be as specified in Table I. * 3.6.3 Thread breaks and ends of seams. Ends of all seams and stitchings when not caught in other seams or stitchings shall be back

43、tacked not less than 3/8 inch. The ends of a continuous line of stitching shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of break not less than 1/2 inch. Skipped stitches or thread breaks may be repaired by using 301 stitch type. The e

44、nds of type 401 stitching not caught in other stitching or seams shall have a 1/2 to 3/4 inch chain extending from it. When ends of overedge stitching are not caught in other seams or stitching, the ends shall be tacked. 3.6.4 Buttonholes. The buttonholes shall be straight style with both ends secur

45、ely barred, The finished cut length shall be 5/8 -(+ 1/16) inch. - 3.7 Manufacturing operations requirements. The shirts shall . be manufactured in accordance with operation requirements as specified in Table I. The contractor is not required to followthe exact sequence of operations provided the fi

46、nished shirts are identical to that produced by following the sequence listed in Table I. 3.7.1 A11 pressing operations referenced in Table I shall be performed by using a heated pressing iron or steam pressing machine. 3.7.2 Abbreviations in table of operations. The abbreviations used in Table I ar

47、e as follows: St ch in Nd 1 Bob LPr Mchne Brtck Comrcl sml r Btnhl incl dbl Stitch inch Needle Bobbin Looper Machine Bartack Gommerci al similar Butt onho 1 e including double 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-TABLE -I - CONSTRUCTION

48、OF SHIRTS Thread NO Operat i on Stch Seam/ Stch Ndl Bob/ Type Stch type in Ler 1. Cutting * a. All components of the basic cloth shall be cut in strict accordance with patterns furnished, which show size, shape, placement of pockets and flaps, directional lines for cutting and notches for proper ass

49、embly of all parts. The fronts may be cut to include the selvage with the grown-on facing. Note the directional line for cutting must be maintained, resulting in a straight facing. * b. All component parts shall be cut from one piece of material except for undercollar, underply of pocket flaps, underply of cuffs, all interlinings and sleeve binding, which may be cut from ends. When parts are cut from ends, they