NAVY MIL-R-82190 A-1973 RAINCOAT WOMAN-S NYLON RUBBER COATED GREEN《绿色橡胶覆盖女士尼龙雨衣》.pdf

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1、MIL-R-Z170A 84 7777906 040b57Y 2 W c. - gC/+ /a MIL - R- 8 2 190A( MC ) 29 May 1973 SUPERSEDING MIL-R-82190 (MC) 12 August 1968 MILITARY SPECIFICATION RAINCOAT, WOMAN S : NYLON, RUBBER COATED; GREEN This specification is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.

2、1. SCOPE *1.1 Sope. The specification covers requirements for a womans rubber coated nylon raincoat. k1.2 Classification. The raincoats shall be of one type in the following sizes as specified (see 6.21: Short 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 Schedule of sizes Regular 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 Lorzg 8 10 12

3、 14 16 18 20 22 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS *2.1 The following documents of the issue in effect on date of invitation for bids or request for proposal, form a part of the specification to the extend specified herein. SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL V-B-871 - Button, Sewing Hole, And Button, Staple, (Plastic). V-

4、T-276 - Thread, Cotton. V-T-280 uu-P-553 - Paper, Wrapping, Tissue. DDD- interlining for undercollar, undercollar stand shoulder straps and front fac- ings and buttonhole reinforce- ment, The strapping for shoulder seams shall be bias cut 7/8-inch wide. The raincoa REiQUIREM. Seam or Stitcbg me TS S

5、titches Per Inch THRI Jeedle D Bobbin or Looper Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-R-82L70A 84 7779706 0406582 L mi MIL-R-82190A (MC) TABLE III MANUFACTURING REQUIREME _- . OPERATION Cutting. (cont d) hanger shall be cut on the strai

6、ght (warp or filling di- rection), 1-inch wide, Parts cut from ends shall harmonize with the shade of the raincoat, f. The use of drill holes is prohibited except for marking the position of the underarm eyelets and at each end of pocket opening as indicated on pattern. g. Hanging pocket opening may

7、 be cut in the cutting room in- accordance with marks on pat- tern, h. Position for pocket welt opening may be cut in the cut- ting room with a die, provided the size of the opening is as indicated on patterns and cor- ners are not tongue notched. i. Each component part of the rayon lining in the to

8、p ply of the top lay shall be marked with the size of the garment. Cut the lining for the front, sleeves and yoke from one piece of rayon lining material or sleeve linings may be cut from ends. When pairs of slee7 linings are cut from ends, the shade of parts and pairs of sleeve linings shall match

9、eacl other . Replacement of damaged parts. a. Replace at time of cutting all parts containing holes or other basic fabric defects, such as smashes, slubs or multiple floats. ititch me 9 iepm or ititchg me C titches Per Inch THRE eedle Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permit

10、ted without license from IHS-,-,-_ MIL-R-82190A 84 m 7997906 0406583 3 li MIL-R-82190A (MC) DPN NO. 2. - 3. TABLE III MANU1 PERATION Replacement of damaged parts. (cont d) b. Discard and replace prior to joining to the finished raincoat all component parts which are damaged by needle chews, scissor

11、or knife cuts, tears or holes. c. There shall be no replace- ment of parts or removal or replacement.of stitching after assembly of the finished rain- coat except as specified in 2.d. d. Needle holes caused by run Offs, repairs or removal of thread or a distance not ex- ceeding 8 stitches (single or

12、 double row) will be acceptable providing the needle holes are sealed. Shade marking. STURIN( Stitch Type a. Mark all component parts cut from one piece of basic and lining materials, and pairs of sleeve linings when cut from ends, to insure uniform shade, size and proper assembly throughout the gar

13、ment. b. The use of shade tickets with metal fastening devices .or sew-on shade tickets is prohibited for shade marking both the coated nylon fabric and the rayon lining material. The use of shade tickets with a thermo-activ.iated adhesive i also prohibited for .shade marking the coated nylon fabric

14、, Fabric must not be cut or punctured. 10 QU IRE MI sep11 Of Etitcbg me :S Ct itches Per Inch THRI Yeedle 1 obbin or .ooper Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-R-8219 OA (MC) TABLE III MANU OPERATION Shade marking. (cont d) c. chine,

15、ink stamp or pencil is allowed on the coated nylon fabric and rayon lining, pro- vided the numbering does ,not show on the outside of the garment and wherever possible is covered by the seam allow- ance, de Paper shadetickets with a thermo-activated adhesive ap- plied on one side may be used for sha

16、de marking the rayon lining material, The tickets shall be of a type that will withstand moderate steam pressing operations. The ad- hesive shall not discolor the material and the adhesive mass shall not adhere to the materiu al upon removal of the ticket. The use of numbering ma- Attach eyelet rein

17、forcement piece, Finished appearance. The coated side of the reinforce- ment piece shall be smoothly and securely adhered to the raincoat without pleats or puckers, The reinforcement pieces shall be rolled to in- sure good adhesion. a. A coat of the adhesive specified in 3.3.4 shall be applied to. t

18、he coated side of the reinforcement piece and to the raincoat directly under the reinforcement piece. The edge of the adhesive on the raincoat shall not extend over 1/4 inch beyond eyelet reinforcement piece, 11 EQUIREM 5t itch g ma Sem or S ititches Per Inch THRI leedle obbin or ooper Provided by I

19、HSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-R- 82 190A (MC) TABLE III MANUFACTURING REQUIREKENTS OPN NO 4 - 5 6, - OPERAT ION Attach eyelet reinforcement piece, (cont d) b. Securely adhere eyelet re- inforcement piece to the undei arm of the raincoat on t

20、he in- side fronts. The notch in reinforcement piece shall be in line with notch in lower edge ofarmhole and the upper edge of reinforcemeqt piece shall be approximately 518 inch below lowef edge of ann- hole, -. Attach underarm eyelets 2 fronts. Finished appearance. The eye- lets shail be securely

21、clinched on the inside of the raincoat without distorting or cutting the qaterjal or split- ting the flange, of the eyelets a. Attach three eyelets to the fronts through the under- arm reinforcement piece, at the location indicated by the marks on pattern, Make raincoat hanger, Finished appearance.

22、The fin- ished hanger shall be uniform in width and gage, a. The raincoat hanger shall be made from a 1-inch wide strip of basic material. b. Fold the 1-inch-wide strip for the hanger in half length- wise with uncoated.side out, Turn. the raw edges to the in- side and seam 1/16 inch from the turned

23、edges, c. Cut the hanger 3 inches to 3-1/2 inches long, - Stitcl Type - 301 12 - Seam or Stitcbg me I EFp-2 Stitcher Per Inch 10-14 THF Yeedle O - D Bobbin or Looper O L Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-R-82170A BLJ M 7777706 04065

24、86 7 W v 3PN NO 7. - 8. - TABLE III MANUFACTURING REQUIREMENTS OPERATf ON Make pocket welt. Finished appearance. The welta shall be uniformly made and stitched, a. Fold welt inhalf length- wise with the coated side out and close each end Qf the welt with 114-inch seam. Tri1 corners. b. Turn welt, co

25、mpletely working out seamed edges and corners. c. Edgestitch the welt uni- formly 114 inch-from seamed and folded edges. Make shoulder straps. Finished appearance. The shoulder straps shall be uni- formly stitched and shall fin ish smooth and flat, without twists, gathers, puckers ,. pleats or raw e

26、dges and shall be uniform $n appearance. Th corners, point and seamed edg shall be neatly and complete1 worked out. a. The shoulder straps shall be made of three plies of basic material. b, Position the interlining (uncoated side out) on the shoulder strap plies (coated side out) with edges at front

27、 back.and pointed end even. Seam the ehoulder strap plies together 1/4 inch from.edges at front, back and pointed en kitch Type - 301 301 301 13 ieaa or kitcbg me - SSe-2 (a) (each end) SSe-2 (b) (seamed edges) OSf-1 (folded edges) SCe-2 (a) ititches Per Inch 10-14 10-14 10-14 THRE ieele obbin or oo

28、per - O O O Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-R-82270A 84 779770b 0406587 O TABLE III MANUFACTURING REQUIREMENTS OPN NO. 8, - 9. 10. OPERATION Make shoulder straps. c. proper turning. Turn straps completely, working out cor- ners, p

29、oint and seamed edges. Edgestitch straps uniformly 1/8 inch from seamed edges. Trim corners and point for d. On the finished raincoat, the shoulder straps shall ueasure 2-1/4 51/8 inches wide at the armhole seam and shall taper to 2-1/8 +1/8 inches wide.at the eyelet end of the buttonhole. Make butt

30、onholes in shoulder straps. Finished appearance. The but- tonholes shall be clean cut, well made and correctly posi- tioned. The buttonholes shall be well worked over gimp to . fit a 30-line sewing hole but- ton. the outside of -the strap. a. Make one horizontal eyelet, end taper-bar type buttonhole

31、, cut 3/4-inch long, in each strap, midway between the back and front edges. The purled edge of eyelet end of the but- tonhole shall be 3/4 inch from the pointed end of straps, The purling shall be on Make right facing buttonhole tab. - Finished appearance. The right facing buttonhole tab shall be u

32、niformly stitched and shall finish smooth and f lati without twists, gathers, puckers, pleats or raw edges. The corners, point and seamed edges shall be neatly and com- pletely worked out. Stitch Type 301 Button. iole 14 Seam or Stitchg me SSe-2 (b 1 St itches Per nch 10-14 54 per tutton- iole in- :

33、 lud ing ,ar THRE Needle O A 1 )obbin or Looper O. A Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- OPN NO. 10 11 12 MIL-R-82L90A 84 m 9999906 040b5 2 m MIL-R-82190A (MC) TABLE III MANUFACTURING REQUImNTS OPERATION Make right facing buttonhole tab.

34、 (cont d) - a. The tab shall be made of two plies of the basic material. b Seam the two plies of the tab together with coated side out 114 inch from the edges at top, bottom and pointed end. c. Turn tab, completely work- ing out corners, point and seamed edges. Topstitch the tab uniformly 3/16 inch

35、from seamed edges. Make buttonhole in tab. Finished appearance. The but- tonhole shall be clean cut, well made and correctly posi- tioned. The buttonhole shall be well worked over gimp to fit a 30-line sewing hole but- ton. the outside of the tab. The purling shall be on a. Make one horizontal eyele

36、t-end taper-bar type but- tonhole, cut 314-inch long, midway betQeen top and bottom edges of tab with the purled edge of eyelet end of the but- tonhole 518 2118 inch from pointed end. Make sleeves. Finished appearance. -The sleeves shall be uniform in appearance and width. The double lapped, double

37、stitched seams shall finish smooth and flat without twists, gathers, puckers, pleats or raw edges. The seams shall start and fin- ish evenly. The top sleeve shall be over the under sleeve Stitch Type 301 301 Button hole 15 Seam or Stitckg me ititches Per Inch 10-14 10-14 i4 per lut ton- iole a in- :

38、luding I ar TnRf leedle 1 lobbin or .ooper O O A Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-R-BZLSOA 1.I W 7777706 0406587 4 - OPN NO. 12 4 13 I TABLE III MANU OPERAT TON Make sleeves. (contd) a, Position the top and under sleeves in accord

39、ance with notches as indicated by marks on pattern and join together at the forearm and backarm, respectively, with a double lapped and double stitched seam. The double row of stitches shall be 3116-inch gage with the outer row 1/16 Inch from the finished edge, Make hanging pocket. Finished appearan

40、ce. The pockets shall finish flat and smooth without twists, puckers or raw edges. The stitching shall be uniform in width, The tongue notch shall not be exposed. The finished pocket shall have the uncoated side of the material to the inside of the pocket, a. The hanging pocket shall be made of two

41、plies of the basic material, b. cut in cutting room) in back part of pocket as indicated by marks on pattern, Tongue notch bottom end of opening, Cut the opening (when not c. Position the identifica- tion and instruction labels (combined or separate) at the outside center of left hang- ing pocket, a

42、pproximately 1 inch above the bottom edge of the pocket. When separate labels are used, the labels shall be attached one above the otherlwith the identifica- tion label at bottom. The labels shall be positioned on back part of pocket. Seam labels to pocket 1/16 to 1/8 inch from each edge. CTURIN( St

43、itch TYP8 301 or 401 301 REOUIREMENTS Seam or Stitcbg me LSC-2 LSC-2 SSa-1 (each edge) Stitcher Por Inch 10-14 10-14 10-14 THRI Heed 1 e 1 3obbin or looper O000 O000 O 16 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- OPN NO - 13 14 - NIL-R-ZL90A 4

44、 7779906 0406570 O TABLE III MANUFACTURING REQUIREME OPERATION . Make hanging pocket d. Position the back and front parts of the hanging pocket together with the un- coated side out and with the back raw edge of the back part of,pocket in line with notches of the front part of pocket. Join the two p

45、lies together 1/4 inch from the top, side and bottom raw edges; the upper back edge of pocket opening shall be turned over, i*e., with the uncoated side face to face and caught in the stitching. (cont d) e. Turn pocket, completely working out seamed edges and corners. Corners may be trimmed for prop

46、er turning. f, Edgestitch pocket 118 inch from seamed edges. Continue stitching the back raw edge of the hanging pocket 114 inch from the raw edge. gl Turn under the back raw edge of pocket opening 3/16 inch and stitch 118 inch from folded edge, The stitching shall be through the pocket. The stitchi

47、ng shall extend the length of the opening. Make collar, Finished appearance. The points and edges of the collar shall be neatly and completely worked out. The points shall be uniforsr in length. The plies shall.lie smooth and . flat without distortion, The gage of stitching shall be uni form in widt

48、h. . Stitch -TYP 301 301 301 301 Sem or Stitcbg me SSe-2 (a) SSe-2 (b) (seamed edge) SSa-1 (back raIi edge of pocket) (back LSd-1 edge of opening) TS Stitches Per Inch 10-14 10-14 10-14 10-14 THRE leed le ) obbin or .ooper O O O O P Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitte

49、d without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-R-2370A 4 9 7777906 0406573 2 9 TABLE III MANUFACTURING REQUIREMENTS OPN NO. 14 - OPERATION Make collar. (cont d) a. The collar and collar stanc shall each be inade.of three plies of basic material. b. Seam interlining ahd under. collar together 1/8 inch from each edge, Trim excess inter- l