NAVY MIL-I-18496 F-1989 INSIGNIA EMBROIDERED (WOMEN)《装饰徽章(女式)》.pdf

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1、T Ir MIL-I-1847bF 84 m 79777Ob 03811267 9 m c -8 4-5-g INCH-POUND 21 November 1989 SUPERSEDING MIL-I-l8496E(NU) 23 June 1982 MILITARY SPECIFICATION INSIGNIA, EMBROIDERED (WOMEN) This specifica ion is approved for use by the Navy Clothing and Tex ile Research Facility, Department of the Navy, and is

2、available for use by all Departmens and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for Schiffli machine embroidered and metallic embroidered insignia worn by enlisted women of the Navy and Marine Corps. 1.2 Classification. Embroidered insign

3、ia shall be of the following types and classes (see 6.2). Type I - Badge, Rating Class 1 - Chief Petty Officer Class 2 - Petty Officer - First Class Class 5 - Senior Chief Petty Officer Class 6 - Master Chief Petty Officer Type II - Specialty Mark and Striker Mark (see Table IV) Type IV - Group Rate

4、 Mark Type V - Stripe, Service Type VI11 - Insignia, Grade 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Officer in Charge, Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility,

5、 21 Strathmore Road, Natick, MA 01760-2490 by using the self-addressed Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter, AMSC N/A DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release, unlimited. , . FSC 8455 distribution is THIS DOCUMEN

6、T CONTAINS PAGES. _ Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-I-L847bF 84 m 777790b 0383268 O m MIL-I-l8496F(NU) * 2.1.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following sDecifications. standards. and handbooks form a part of this do

7、cument to the eitent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL V-T-276

8、PPP-B-676 MILITARY MIL-C-823 MIL-C-10176 MIL-L-17507 MIL-E-17568 MIL-B-17757 MIL-C-21115 MIL-C-2188 1 MIL-C-24910 MIL-C-29127 MIL-C-87052 STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-191 FED-STD-751 MILITARY MIL-STD-105 MIL-STD-129 - Thread, Cotton - Boxes, Set-up Cloth, Serge, Wool, Wool and Nylon, Polyester Cloth, G

9、abardine, Wool, Polyester and Wod Lace, Ornamental Embroidery Materials, Metallic and Synthetic Box, Shipping, Fiberboard (Modular Sizes) Cloth, Tropical, Wool, Polyester/Wool Cloth, Poplin, Polyester and Cotton Cloth, Tropical: Polyester and Wool Cloth, Twill, Polyester/Cotton (Crease-Resistant Clo

10、th, Twill, Polyester, White and Wool Metallic Finish) Textile Test Methods Stitches, Seams and Stitchings Sampling Procedures and Tables for inspection by . Attributes Marking for Shipment and Storage (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of federal and military specifications, standards, and handbook

11、s are available from the Naval Publications and Forms Center, (ATTN: NPODS), 5801 Tabor Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19120-5099.) - * 2.1.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the ext

12、ent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation. 1 , 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-I-3847bF 8Li = 7979906 0383267 2 ml P MIL-I-l8496F(NU) DRAW1 NG S (Stitch enlargement drawing

13、 numbers are as indicated in Table IV. Figures 1 through 16 are illustrations of Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility stitch enlargement drawings, and are attached for information only.) LAWS AND REGULATIONS U.S. POSTAL SERVICE MANUAL (Copies of the manual may be obtained from the Superintend

14、ent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402-0001.) * 2.2 Non-Government publications. The following document(s) form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DOD adopted shall be those listed

15、 in the issue of the DODISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DODISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). NATIONAL MOTOR FREIGHT TRAFFIC ASSOCIATION, INC., AGENT National Motor Freight Classification (Appl

16、ications for copies should be addressed to the American Trucking Association, ATTN: Traffic Department, 1616 P Street, N.W., Washington, DC 20036-1404). UNIFORM CLASSIFICATION COMMITTEE, AGENT Uniform Freight Classification (Applications for copies should be addressed to the Uniform Classification C

17、ommittee, Room 1106, 222 South Riverside Plaza, Chicago, Illinois 60606-5808.) THE COLOR ASSOCIATION OF THE UNITED STATES Standard Shades for Heraldic Yarns for Embroidery and Ribbons (Applications for copies should be addressed to the Color Association of the United States, 343 Lexington Ave., New

18、York, NY 10016-0927.) (Non-Government standards and other publications are normally available from the organizations that prepare or distribute the documents. These documents also may be available in or through libraries or other informational services.) * 2.3 Order of precedence. In the event of a

19、conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or netwo

20、rking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-I-L849bF 84 949790b 0383270 9 = MIL-I-l8496F(NU) 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1 Guide sample. Samplps, when furnished, are solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variations from this specification may appear in the sample in which case

21、this specification shall govern. * 3.2 First article. When specified, (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.3. 3.3 Material. 3.3.1 Cloth, Poplin, Polyester and Cotton. The cloth shall conform to type II, class 2, of MIL-C-21881. The color shall be Wh

22、ite 3013. 3.3.2 Cloth, Twill, Polyester, White. The twill cloth shall conform to the requirements of NIL-C-87052. The color shall be White 3006. 3.3.3 Cloth, Tropical, Wool, Bolyester/Wool. The cloth, tropical shall conform to the requirements of type III, class 3, of MIL-C-21115. The color shall be

23、 Blue 3346 for Navy and Green 2241 for Marine Corps. * 3.3.4 Cloth, Tropical, Polyester and Wool. The cloth shall conform to the requirements of MIL-C-24910. The color shall be Blue 3346. 3.3.5 Cloth, Wool, Serge. The serge cloth shall conform to the requirements of type I, class 5, of MIL-C-823. Th

24、e color shall match Green 2234 (MC). * 3.3.6 Cloth, Twill, Polyester/Cotton (Crease-resistant Finish). The twill cloth shall conform to the requirements of class 1 of MIL-C-29127. The color shall be Khaki 2101 (MC). * 3.3.7 Cloth, Gabardine, Wool, Polyester and Wool. The gabardine cloth shall confor

25、m to the requirements of type II, class 12 of MIL-C-10176. The color shall be Green 2212 (MC). 3.3.8 Embroidery material, metallic and synthetic metallic. The metallic and synthetic metallic embroidery materials shall conform to the requirements for type I, II, or III of MIL-E-17568. * 3.3.9 Lace, o

26、rnamental. The lace shall conform to the requirements for type II, class 2, 3, 4, or 5, style A, 1/4 inch in width of MIL-L-17507. The color shall be Gold 3903. 3.3.10 Buckram. The cotton buckram shall be natural or bleached white, plain weave and shall conform to the following requirements when tes

27、ted as specified in 4.4.1. Type A - - - 50 (+3) ends and 50 (+3) picks per inch. The weight shall be 4.8 (+lO) - ounces per square yard. 4 - Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-I-1847bF 4 9799706 - 0381271 O MIL-I-l8496F(NU) Type B -

28、- - 20 (+2) ends and 15 (+2) picks per inch. The weight shall be 6.75 (+l.OO)ounces - per square yard. * 3.3.10.1 Buckram backing. Type A buckram shall be used to reinforce the gold lace chevrons, gold lace service stripes, and metallic embroidered grade insignia produced on -the prescribed backgrou

29、nd fabrics. Types A and B buckrams shall be used to reinforce the metallic embroidery materials used for the eagle, specialty mark, and grade insignia of the rating badge. One layer of type B bleached buckram is required as reinforcement when the white twill cloth conforming to MIL-C-87052 is used.

30、3.3.11 Schiffli - embroidery yarns. * 3.3.11.1 Rayon yarn, The rayon yarn shall be bright, continuous filament, regenerated cellulose type, 75/3 (+ 5) denier Schiffli yarn. The rayon yarn for the eagle tongue for Petty 0ff”lcer 3rd Class and above shall be bright, continuous filament, regenerated ce

31、llulose type, 100/2 (+ 5) denier or 75/3 (+ - 5) denier Schiffli yarn. Testing shall be as specified 64.4.1. * 3.3.11.1.1 Colors. Cable numbers for the colored yarns shall be as follows (see 2.2 and 6.2). The use of sulphur dyes is prohibited. O Bluebird - Cable No. 67117 Erne r ald - Cable No. 6712

32、8 Golden Yellow - Cable No. 67104 Dark Blue - Cable No. 67126 Scarlet - Cable No. 67111 White - Cable No. 67101 * 3.3.11.1.1 laundering, equal to or .l. Colorfastness. The yarn shall show fastness to light, wet-dry cleaning, bleaching and dry and wet heat (hot pressing), better than the standard sam

33、ple when tested as specified in 4.4.4. AS a limit of acceptability or when no standard sample is available, the yarn shall show good fastness to light, laundering, wet-dry cleaning, bleaching and dry and wet heat (hot pressing) when tested as specified in 4.4.4. * 3.3.11.1.2 Matching. The dyed yarns

34、 shall match the available standard shade sample when viewed under filtered tungsten lamps that approximate artificial daylight, having a correlated color temperature of 7500 (+ 200) K with illumination of 100 (+ 20) foot candles and shall be a good match to the standard shade sample under incandesc

35、ent lamplight at 2300 (+ - 200) K. 3.3.11.2 Bobbin thread. The thread used in Schiffli embroidery shall either be a good commercial grade of two-ply (minimum) undyed cotton thread or continuous filament undyed (white) nylon thread. * 3.3.12 Thread, cotton. The white or colored thread for cover stitc

36、hing and hemming shall conform to the requirements of V-T-276 and shall be as specified in Table I. Unless otherwise specified, the color of the thread shall match the color of the fabric used as the background cloth. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without licen

37、se from IHS-,-,-flIL-I-38YSbF BLJ W 777770b 0383272 2 W MIL-I-l8496F(NU) Table I - Threads TY Pe Ply Ticket Number 1Al 1c1 1c2 3 3 3 40 O0 O0 * 3.3.12.1 Colorfastness. The thread shall show fastness to dry and wet heat (hot pressing), equal to or better than the standard sample when tested as specif

38、ied in 4.4.1. As a limit of acceptability or when no standard sample is available, th yarn shall show good fastness to dry and wet heat (hot pressing) when tested as specified in 4.4.1. 3.3.12.2 Stitches, seams, and stitchings. Stitches, seams, and stitchings shall conform to FED-STD-751. Stitch typ

39、e 301 used for hemming shall be 1/8 (+ 1/32) inch from the edge. Stitch type 304 used for cover stitching shall be 1/8 (+ 1/32) inch wide. The threads and number of stitches used for various stitch types, shall be as indicated in Table II. Table II - Stitch types, thrads, and number of stitches Oper

40、ation Stitch Type Needle Lower Number of Stitches Sewing 301 Coverstitch 304 Metallic embroidery Hand 003/3 0013 12-14 per inch 003/3 00/3 45-48 per inch 40/3 1/ - - - - 1/ Thread used to sew the metallic embroidery material on rating badges. 3.3.13 Form, fiberboard. When used, the form used for han

41、d embroidered, synthetlc metallic insignia, shall be a commercial grade fiberboard 0.035 (+ 0.005) inch thick and shall be free of sulphur. The face side of the board shall be of a color to approximately match the color of the embroidery yarn used. 3.3.14 Stiffener. Hand embroidered insignia may be

42、treated on the reverse side with a stiffener, if required, to facilitate processing or to prevent raveling of the yarn. The finish shall not affect the color of the face of the insignia or the background fabric while in storage. 3.4 Description. The insignia specified in this specification shall be

43、either machine embroidered on Schiffli-type embroidery machines in accordance with the applicable government stitch enlargements (see 3.5.2.1), or hand-embroidered with metallic or synthetic, if required, to facilitate processing or to prevent raveling of the yarn. The finish shall not affect the co

44、lor of the face of the insignia or the background fabric while in storage. 3.4 Description. The insignia specified in this specification shall be 6 I l Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-I-l8496F(NU) either machine embroidered on Sch

45、iffli-type embroidery machines in accordance with the applicable government stitch enlargements (see 3.5.2.1.), or hand-embroidered with metallic or synthetic metallic embroidery materials in accordance with the applicable guide or reference sample (see 3.5.2.2). 3.4.1 Schiffli construction. 3.4.1.1

46、 Ground and overlay stitches. The ground and overlay stitches shall be executed in accordance with the applicable stitch enlargement (see 3.5.2.1), and shall completely cover the prescribed background-design area in a closely, densely, and tightly drawn manner to produce a clear sharp execution of t

47、he design with none of the background cloth or underlay stitches visible . 3.4.1.1.1 Rating badge (chevron) Group Rate Mark (bar) and Service stripe. Stitch execution shall be of the ground embroidery type. The number of visible rows shall be as indicated in the applicable stitch enlargement (see 3.

48、5.3). 3.4.1.2 Underlay stitches. Underlay stitches, where required, shall be inserted in the direction and manner most suitable for proper design execution and shall not be less than the number indicated on the applicable stitch enlargement. The raised areas of the design where underlay is required,

49、.shall be equal to the sample (see 3.1) in fullness and depth. 3.4.1.3 Stiele stitches. When required, Stiele border stitches shall be executed in accordance with the applicable stitch enlargement (see 3.5.2.1) and shall be tightly drawn and well executed to produce a clear, sharp border and shall completely cover the background embroidery and cloth. O 3.4.1.3.1 Rating badge (chevron) and Group-Rate mark (bar). Each chevron and