NAVY MIL-DTL-82161 C-1997 TROUSERS MEN-S - EVENING DRESS (OFFICER-S)《男士夜礼服长裤(官员的)》.pdf

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1、 flIL-DTL-82161C m 90b 2054338 175 m I INCH-POUND I MIL-DTL-82161C (MC) 28 July 1997 SUPERSEDING MIL-T-82161B (MC) 28 March 1994 DETAIL SPECIFICATION TROUSERS, MENS - EVENING DRESS (OFFICERS) This specification is approved for use by U.S. Marine Corps, Department of the Navy, and is available for us

2、e by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1. Scope. This specification covers requirements for officers evening dress trousers. 1.2. Classification. The trousers will be of one type in the following sizes, as specified (see 6.2). Beneficial comments (recommendations,

3、 additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to the Commander (PSE-D), Marine Corps Systems Command, Quantico, VA 22134-5010 by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this docu

4、ment or by letter. FSC 8405 AMSC N/A DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-82161C = 999990b 2054339 001 - MIL-DTL-82161C (MC) Schedule of sizes Waist

5、26 28 30 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 (inches) 29 29 29 29 29 29 29 Inseam lengths 31 31 31 31 31 31 31 31 31 31 (inches) 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 35 35 35 35 35 35 35 1.3. Individual orders. When trousers are custom tailored to an individual order, this specification shall govern, except the detail requirement

6、s of Section 3, Table I may be modified to the extent necessary for good custom tailoring practice. 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1. General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of t

7、his specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must-meet all specified requirements documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not

8、they are listed. 2.2. Government documents. 2-2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of

9、Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DoDISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2) Unless otherwise SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL A-A-5 O 18 6 - Cloth, Buckram, Woven and Nonwoven A-A-50196 - Thread, Silk A-A-5 O 198 - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole A-A-5 2 O7 1 - Tape, Te

10、xtile, Cotton, General Purpose, (Unbleached, Bleached or Dyed) 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-82LbLC m b 2054340 823 m MIL-DTL- 82 161C (MC) A-A-52 O 9 4 - A-A- 5 2 1 O 6 DDD-L-20 - V-B-871 - V-F-106 - - Thread, Cotton Clot

11、h, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and Polyester Blend Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Use) Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple, (Plastic) Fastener, Slide, Interlocking DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE MIL-C-368 - Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cloth, Twill, Rayon MIL-DTL-20271 - Lace, Gold -

12、 Ornamental MIL-C-29405 - Cloth, Broadcloth: Wool and Wool/Nylon STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-751 - Stitches, Seams and Stitchings DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE MIL-STD-1488 - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Trousers (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of the above specifications, standards, handbooks are

13、 available from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094. ) 2.3. Non-Government publications. The following document(s) form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents wh

14、ich are DoD adopted are those listed in the issue of the DoDISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DoDISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Color Card of Official Sta

15、ndardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968 Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Shades for Buttons 1966 (Application for copies should be addressed to the Color Association of the United States, Inc., 409 W. 44th Street, New York, NY 10016-0927). 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or netwo

16、rking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-FlIL-DTL-82LbLC 9999906 20543YL 7bT MIL-DTL-82161C (MC) 2.4. Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however,

17、supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1. Standard sample. Standard samples are furnished solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variations from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case t

18、he specification shall govern. 3.2. First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.3. 3.3. “Materials. 3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material and reinforcement patches for the leg bottoms shall be cloth, wool, broadcloth, dark

19、blue, shade 2307, conforming to type I of MIL-C-29405. 3.3.2 Lininq. The material for lining the waistband and right fly shall be cloth, rayon, twill, black, 3.7 ounce, conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-368. 3.3.3 Pocketinq, lininq, and interlininq. The material for lining the pockets, waistband, right

20、 fly, pocket flaps, crotch, left fly interlining, and pocket stay shall be black polyester, polyester and cotton or polyester and rayon conforming to class 1 of A-A-52106. 3.3.4 Buckram. The material for interlining waistbands shall be cloth, buckram, cotton, natural shade, conforming to type I of A

21、-A-50186. 3.3.5 Stav tape. The tape for the front edge of the side pocket shall be cotton, 1/4 inch wide, conforming to type II, class 1 of A-A-52071. 3.3.6 Hook and eye. The hook and eye shall be North and Judd (Hook Flex H-49, K-50, H-89 and E-90); Universal Button Co. (Talon #3, #7 and #8 hook wi

22、th #8 eye or #85 eye); Akim Co. or Patwin, Inc., Junior Series, type JB; Stimpson (P-536, D-4086, D-4457, D-4288); Rau (OA50, OX 1256, 0804161, Patwin, Inc. 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-VIL-DTL-82LbLC 9999906 2054342 bTb MIL-DTL-

23、82161C (MC) I (Slim-Slak with MB eye, and Slik-Slak) or equal. The finish shall be nickel plate. the supplier shall submit the item with supporting data to the contracting officer for approval. Prior to the use of an “or equal“ item, 3.3.7 Lace. The lace for the outseams of the trousers shall be lac

24、e, gold, ornamental, conforming to class 3 of MIL-DTL-20271. 3.3.8 Slide fastener. The slide fastener for the fly shall conform to type I, style 1, brass, natural finish, size LS, with the short tab pull as specified in V-F-106. The tape shall show good fastness to wet (dry) cleaning. The color of t

25、he tape shall be black, shade G, cable No. 66507. 3.3.9 Thread and uimp. 3.3.9.1. Thread. performed with silk thread conforming to type I of A-A-50196 and all other seaming and stitching with cotton thread conforming to All outside seaming and stitching shall be A-A-52094. Operation Topst itching In

26、seaming, outseaming, seat seaming Bartacks, inside Bartacks, outside Serging Buttonholes Buttons All other seaming and stitching - III III II II III II I - - Ficket No. A A A 40 A 70 A A 24 40 Ply - 3 3 3 3 3 2 3 3 4 3 Material Silk Cotton Cotton Cotton Silk Cotton Silk Cotton Cotton Cotton Jeedle o

27、r Bobbin Needle Bobbin Both Bobbin Needle Both Bobbin Needle Both Both 3.3.9.2. Gimp. The buttonhole gimp shall be cotton, ticket No. 8, soft or glazed finish, conforming to type I or II of A-A-50198. 3.3.9.3. Color. The color of thread and gimp shall be black, shade AA, cable No. 66043 and the colo

28、r of the top thread of the bartacks .at the ends of side pocket openings and the thread used for stitching the ornamentation to the trousers shall be yellow 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-82LbLC 0b 2054343 532 - MIL-DTL-821

29、61C (MC) e (goldenlite), shade AJ, cable No. 66051 for the gold lace (see DoD Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968). 3.3.9.4. Colorfastness. The thread and gimp shall show good fastness to wet (dry) cleaning and, in addition, the silk thread shall show good fas

30、tness to light when tested as specified in applicable thread specifications. 3.3.10 Buttons. Buttons shall conform to type II, class D, glossy finish, style 4, 22 line and 27 line of V-B-871. The color of the buttons shall be black, shade BT (see DoD Standard Shades for Buttons 1966). 3.3.11 Labels.

31、 Each pair of trousers shall have a combination personal-identification-size-instruction label. The combination label shall conform to type VI, class 14 of DDD-L-20. The label shall conform to the colorfastness and writing test requirements of DDD-L-20. The content (inscription) and format of the co

32、mbination label shall be as follows: Nomenclature: Fiber Content: Size: Contract number: Name of contractor: DRY CLEAN ONLY 3.4. Desiqn. The trousers shall be the U.S. Marine Corps design as shown on Figures 1 and 2, having a two-piece lined waistband with outlet at center back, button french-type f

33、ly with slide fastener closure, hip darts, two watch pockets and finished leg bottoms. The trousers shall have ornamental gold lace, attached at the outseams. 3.5. Patterns. Standard patterns will be furnished to the contractor by the Government. The standard patterns shall not be altered in any way

34、 and shall be used only as a guide for cutting the suppliers working patterns. patterns shall be identical to the standard patterns. standard patterns provide a 1/2 inch allowance for crotch seam and 3/8 inch allowance for all other seams, except as otherwise specified herein, and seat seam outlet a

35、t waist in accordance with patterns. The patterns provide a three inch allowance for The contractors working The 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-821bLC m 99999Ob 2054344 479 m PATTERN NOMENCLATURE bottom turnup of legs. The

36、standard patterns show size, directional lines for cutting, and are marked and notched for proper placement and assembly of the component parts. NO. OF CUT PARTS 3.5.1 List of pattern parts. The component parts for the trousers shall be cut from the specified materials in accordance with the pattern

37、 parts indicated below: Front Back Right fly Left fly Reinforcement patch Facing, watch pocket Waistband Buttonhole tab ITEM 2 2 1 1 4 2 2 2 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. Watch pocket Crotch lining Left fly interlining 9. 10. 11. 4 2 1 12. 13. Waistband interlining 14. 2 15. Right fly lining Waistband lin

38、ing 1 2 Bottom turnup marker 3.6. Construction 3.6.1 Manufacturinq requirements. The trousers shall be manufactured in strict accordance with the operations and the stitch, seam, and stitching types specified in Table I. The supplier is not required to follow the exact sequence of the operations lis

39、ted in Table I, but all operations specified shall be used to manufacture the trousers. 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-82IIbIIC 9 999990b 2054345 305 MIL-DTL-8 2 161C (MC ) 3.6.1.1. Stitches, seams and stitchinas. The stitc

40、h, seam, and stitching types specified in Table I shall conform to FED-STD-751. 3.6.1.2. Overedqe stitchinq. be done on serging machines with knife attachment properly set to trim the raw edge when overedged without cutting the material. Overedge or serge stitching shall 3.6.1.3. Tackinu and backsti

41、tchinq. Ends of seams and stitching produced with stitch type 301, when not caught in other seams or stitching, shall be backtacked not less than 1/4 inch. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of break not less than 1/2 inch. When stitch type 401 is used, ends of seams

42、 and stitching shall be caught in other seams or stitching, and skipped stitches and thread breaks may be repaired using stitch type 301 backstitched not less than 1/2 inch on each side of the skip or break. 3.6.2 Shade markinq. The component parts of the trousers shall be shade marked to ensure a u

43、niform shade and size throughout the garment. Any method of shade marking may be used except: a. Corrosive metal fastening devices. b. Sew-on shade tickets. c. Adhesive type tickets which show discolorations or leave traces of paper or adhesive mass on the material upon the removal of the tickets. 8

44、 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-82LbLC = 999990h 2054346 241 MIL-DTL-82161C (MC) TABLE I. Manufacturinq requirements. NO - 1 2 OPERATION :ut t inq. i. Cut the trousers in strict iccordance with the patterns hrnished by the Go

45、vernment. 3. Cut the material in the lirection indicated by directional lines on the patterns. Lay fronts and backs so that the directional lines are in the warp direction. rhe directional lines may deviate from the warp direction by not more than 1 inch on both fronts and oacks. Measurements shall

46、be taken from the top and bottom of the directional line on patterns to the selvage edge of the fabric and the difference between the two measurements shall not exceeds the tolerance specified. c. Cut the component parts for the trousers from one piece of the basic material, except the following par

47、ts may be cut from ends but when so cut, the parts shall harmonize with the shade of the trousers: left and right flies, and fly buttonhole tab. d. Cut the ornamental stripes to the required length. Replacement of damased Darts. a. Replace any part containing damages at time of cutting, such as hole

48、s or serious weakening defects such as smashes, multiple floats and slubs likely to develop into holes. b. Replace any part damaged during the manufacturing process by needle chews which may be expected to develop into a hole, scissors or knife cuts, tears, holes, mends or burns, and large exposed d

49、rill holes. STCH TYPE SEAM/ STCH TYPE STCH/I N NDL BOB/ LPR 9 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-82161C (MC) TABLE I. Manufacturina requirements - Continued. OPERATION Shade markinq. a. Mark or ticket the component parts to ensure a uniform shade and proper assembly throughout the trousers, except those p