NAVY MIL-C-21088 D-1995 COAT MAN-S WHITE DRESS (OFFICER-S)《男士白色外套(官员的)》.pdf

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1、MIL-C-2 1088D (MC) Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to the Commander (PSE-C), Marine Corps Systems Command, Quantico, VA using the self addressed Standardization Document Improvement

2、Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. 22134-5010 by I SUPERSEDING MIL-c-2 108 8c (Mc) 3 May 1983 MILITARY SPECIFICATION COAT, MANS: WHITE; DRESS (OFFICERS) This specification is approved for use by the U. S. Marine Corps, Department of the Navy, and is available

3、 for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1 Scow. This specification covers the requirements for white dress coats for men. 1.2 Classification. The coats shall be of one type in the following sizes as specified (see 6.2): Schedule of Sizes Short Reuular Lonq E

4、xtra Lonq 36 36 36 36 38 38 38 38 40 40 40 40 42 42 42 42 44 44 44 46 46 AMSC N/A FSC 8405 DISTRIBZTTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1.

5、1 SRe cifications, standards. and handbooks. The following specifications, standards and handbooks form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Spec

6、ifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). SPECIFICATION FEDERAL A-A-5 O 19 8 V-T-285 CCC-C-446 DDD-L-2 O DDD-T-86 MILITARY MIL-B-3461 MIL-C-41820 STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-751 MILITARY MIL-STD-105 MIL-STD- 129 - Thread, GSap, Cotton Buttonhole - T

7、hread, Polyester - Cloth, Muslin, Cotton - Label; For Clothing. Equipage, and Tentage, - Tape, Textile; Cotton, General Purpose (General Use) (Unbleached, Bleached, or Dyed) - Buttons, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Cap - Cloth, Gabardine, Polyester and Rayon - Stitches, Seams and Stitchings - Samplin

8、g Procedures and Tables for - Marking for Shipment and Storage . Inspection By Attributes (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of federal and military specifications, standards, and handbooks are available from the Standardization Documents Order Desk, Building 4D, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia, P

9、A 19111-5094.) 2.1.2 Other Government nblications. The following other Government publications forms a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues shall be those in effect on the date of the solicitation. 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reprodu

10、ction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Color Card for Sewing Threads 1968 Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Shades for Buttons 1966 (Application for copies should be addressed to the Color Association of the United States, Inc., 200 Lexingt

11、on Avenue, New York, NY 10016.) (Copies of specifications, standards and publications required by contractors in connection with specific acquisition functions should be obtained form the contracting activity or as directed by the contracting officer.) 2.2 Non-Government publications. The following

12、document (8) form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents which are DOD adopted shall be those listed in the issue of the DODISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the D

13、ODISS shall be the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). AMERICAN SOCIETY OF TESTING MATERIALS ASTM D 3951 - Standard Practice for Commercial Packaging (Application for copies should be addressed to American Society for Testing and Materials, 1916 Race Street, Philadelphia, PA

14、 19103.) (Non-Government standards and other publications are normally available from the organizations that prepare or distribute the documents. These documents also may be available in or through libraries or other informational services.) 2.3 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict betwee

15、n the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document shall take precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption had been obtained. 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1 Guide sample. Guide samples, when furnished,

16、are solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variation from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case this specification shall govern. 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-Z1088D(MC) 3.2 Fir

17、st article approval. Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), before production is commenced, a first article consisting of the number of finished coats specified by the procuring activity (see 6.2) shall be submitted or made available to the contracting officer or his authorized representative for app

18、roval. The approval of the first article authorizes the commencement of production, but does not relieve the contractor of the responsibility for compliance with all provisions of the specification. The first article shall be manufactured by the contractor in the same facilities to be used for the m

19、anufacture of the production items. 3.3 Materials. 3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material shall be cloth, gabardine, polyester and rayon conforming to MIL-C-41820, type III, class 1, 8.0 ounce, white shade 2400 (see 6.3). 3.3.2 Bias bindinq. The binding for raw edges of seams, armholes, bottom tur

20、nup, top edge of pockets, and for making the coat hanger shall be bias cut, 1-1/8 inches wide, from bleached and stiffened cotton muslin cloth conforming to type III class 3 of CCC-C-446, except the total non-fibrous material shall be between 5 and 10 percent. The bias binding shall have sized edges

21、 to prevent raveling. 3.3.3 Stay tape. The stay tape for the front edges shall be cotton, unbleached, 1/4 inch wide, conforming to type III, class 1 Of DDD-T-86. 3.3-4 Thread. 3,3.4.1 Thread Polvester. The polyester thread for seaming and stitching buttonholes, eyelets, hand felling and bartacks sha

22、ll be white, size A, 3-ply, conforming to type I class 1 of V-T-285. The thread for basting shall be a good comercial grade. 3.3.4.2 Thread cotton. 3.3-5 Gimp. The buttonhole gimp shall be cotton thread, white (bleached), soft or glazed finish, conforming to type I or II, size 8 of A-A-50198, 3.3.6

23、Buttons, When specified (see 6.2), buttons shall be furnished with the coat. The buttons shall be metal, gold plated, officer design, 40- and 27-line, regular shank, conforming to type I, style 3, class A, subclass 1 of MIL-B-3461. 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitt

24、ed without license from IHS-,-,-flIL-C-2LOBD 9999906 1997218 074 MIL-C-2 10 8 8D ( MC) 3.3.6.1 Rinu toaales. When buttons are furnished, ring toggles for securing insignia buttons to the coat shall conform to MIL-E-3461. 3.3.7 Hook and eves. Hooks and eyes for closing the collar shall be No. 10 comm

25、ercial type, brass, nickel plated (see Section 4, Table IV). 3,3.8 Labels. Each coat shall have combination identification- instruction label and a size label. The labels shall show good fastness to laundering. Identification-instruction label (combined)_. The identification-instruction label shall

26、conform to type IV, class 1 and 3 (combined) of DDD-L-20 and shall measure not less than 5-1/2 by 2-1/2 inches. The content and format shall be as follows: Nomenclature (item description) Contract number Name of contractor Fiber Contents Acts information 3.3.8.1 LAUNDERING AND PRESSING INSTRUCTIONS

27、Remove buttons. 1. Hand laundering. a. Launder in warm water using mild soap* b. Scrub soiled areas. c. d. Dry without wringing. Rinse thoroughly in clear wann water. 2. Machine laundering. a. Use a mild detergent. b. Complete washing cycle for 30 minutes in 120“ to 140F water. c. Rinse thoroughly i

28、n clear water. d. Set automatic dryer for regular fabrics and dry for 15 minutes. Remove while slightly damp and let hang dry on plastic or wooden hanger. 3. Pressing. a. If pressing is required, use a cool iron. DO NOT USE SETTING ABOVE RAYON ON AUTOMATIC IRON DO NOT USE HOT IRON 5 Provided by IHSN

29、ot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-21088D = 9999906 L9972L9 T20 3.3.8.2 Size label. The size label shall conform to type VI, class 2 of DDD-L-20. The label shall consist of the numerical size designation specified in 1.2 followed by the letters S,

30、 R, L or XI, for Short, Regular, Long and Extra Long and the stock number as shown by the following example: 40R Stock Number 3.4 Desian. The coat shall be the unlined, single breasted, formfitting design shown in Figures 1 through 4, having a five- button closure, stand-up collar with ends to faste

31、n in front with hooks and eyes, collar with worked eyelet in each end for branch of service insignia, shoulder straps to button, box pleated patch pockets on upper fronts with pointed flaps to button, bellows type pockets on lower fronts with pointed flaps to button, worked eyelets for all buttons,

32、horizontal slit at waist, underarm and chesty, and center back vent and shall be without a belt. 3.5 Patterns. Standard patterns will be furnished to the contractor by the Government. The standard patterns shall not be altered in any way and shall be used only as a guide for cutting the contractors

33、working patterns. The contractors working patterns shall be identical to the standard patterns., The standard patterns provide 1/4 inch allowance for seams at top and front edges of coat, and for pocket flap and shoulder strap seams; l-inch allowance for side seams; 5/8-inch allowance for center bac

34、k seam; and 3/8-inch allowance for all other seams except as otherwise specified in Table I. Standard patterns show size, seam allowances, directional lines for cutting and aremarked or notched for placement and assembly of the component parts. 3.5.1 List of pattern Darts. Coats shall be cut from th

35、e materials specified herein in accordance with the number of pattern parts indicated below: Pattern nomenclature Item Material: Basic No. of cut parts 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. Front Front facing (right) Front facing (left) Side back Center back Tops leeve Undersleeve Sleeve cuff Collar Collar

36、 lining 2 1 1 2 2 2 2 2 1 1 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-2LOD m 9999906 1997220 742 m Pattern nomenclature Item Material: Basic No. of cut parts 11. Collar interlining 12. Shoulder strap 13. Pocket, upper 14. Pocket, lower

37、15. Pocket flap, upper 16. Pocket flap, lower 17. Front eyelet reinforcement 18. Sword slit tab * 19. Welt piece Shapers Finished pocket, upper Finished pocket, lower Finished pocket flap, upper Finished pocket flap, lower Finished cuff Finished collar shaper Marker Left vent marker 3.6 Construction

38、. 3.6.1 Manufacturinq reauirements. The coats shall be manufactured in strict accordance with the operations and the stitch, seam and stitching types specified in Table I. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of the operations listed in Table I but all operations specified sha

39、ll be used to manufacture the coat. 3.6.1.1 Stitches, seams and stitchinq. The stitch, seam and stitching types specified in Table I shall conform to FED-STD-751. The number of stitches per inch as specified in Table I indicates the minimum and maximum number permitted. The overedge machines shall h

40、ave a knife attachment properly set to trim off frayed thread ends along the raw edge without cutting the material. Ends of seas and stitching produced with 301 type stitch, when not caught in other seams or stitching, shall be backtacked not less than 1/4 inch. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shal

41、l be secured by stitching back of break not less than 1/2 inch. 3.6.1.2 Thread breaks and end of stitchinq. 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-21088D = 9997906 1997221 689 MIL-C-21088D(MC) 3.6.2 Shade markinq. The component parts

42、 of the coat cut from one piece of basic material shall be shade marked to insure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. Any method of shade marking may be used except: (a) Corrosive metal fastening devices. (b) Sew-on shade tickets. (c) (d) Adhesive-type tickets whose adhesive causes disc

43、oloration and whose adhesive mass adheres to the material upon removal of the tickets. Any marking medium which would tend to leave a permanent mark. 3.6.3 Pressinq. All pressing operations specified in Table I shall be done with a heated pressing iron or pressing machine set at medium (low) tempera

44、ture (285F maximum). 8 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-NO - 1 - 30B/ ;PR MIL-C-2LOBBD 999990b 1997222 515 IDL TABLE I MANUFAC OPERATION S ;TCH/ IN uttinq. . Cut coats in strict ccordance with patterns urnished. EAM/ ITCH WE . Cut all

45、materials in he direction indicated by he directional lines on he pattern. The straight dge of the sword slit tak hall be cut on the elvage. . Cut all component )arts of the coat from one liece of basic material, !xcept the following parts iay be cut from ends: iollar interlining, front !yelet reinf

46、orcement, ;word slit tabs, underply )f pocket flaps and ihoulder straps. The arts cut from ends shall iarmonize with the rest oj ;he coat. The sword slit relt piece shall be cut irith one edge (bottom) on ;he selvage. i. Cut the bias binding 1-1/8 inches wide for Dinding raw edges of seams, armholes

47、, bottom turnup, top edge of pockets, and for making the coat hanger from the material specified in 3.3.2. e. The use of drill hole is prohibited. tING RI CCH PE I 9 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-2LOD 9999906 1997223 451 TABLE

48、 I MANUFA1 OPERATION Cuttinq. (contd) f. Dress the left vent ii accordance with the shape: furnished. Replacement of damaaed parts. a. Replace at time of cutting any parts containing damages, such as holes or serious weakening defects, such as smashes, multiple floats and slubs likely to develop int

49、o holes. b. Replace any parts damaged during the manufacturing process by needle chews which may be expected to develop into i hole, scissor or knife cuts, tears, holes, mends, or burns. Shade markinq. a. Mark or ticket (see 3.6.2) all component parts cut from basic naterial, except those ?arts cut from ends (see l.c), in order to insure uniform shade and size throughout the coat. 3. Adhesive t