DLA MIL-C-483 D-1974 CLOTH PILE ALPACA AND WOOL《羊驼和羊毛丝绒绒面布》.pdf

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1、MIL-C-Li3D 83 N 7777706 0372LLL 5 W MIL-C-48 3D 15 March 1974 SUPERSEDING MIL-C-483C 18 March 1969. MILITARY SPECIFICATION CLOTH, PILE; ALPACA AND WOOL This specification is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1 Scope, This specifdcation covers w

2、ool pile cloth, and alpaca pile cloth. 1.2 Classification. The cloth shall be of the following types as speci- fied (see 6.2): Type I - Cloth, wool, pile, double face, 5/16 inch. Type II - Cloth, wool, pile, double face, 1/2 inch. Type Vif - Cloth, alpaca, pile, single face, 1/2 incha Type IX - Clot

3、h, wool, pile, double face, 1/4 inch. 2. APPLIcABpE DOCUMENTS 2,l The following documents of the issue in effect on date of invitation for bids or request for proposal, form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein: SPECIFICA!IXONS FEDEU PPP-P-1132 - Packaging and Packing of Woole

4、n, Worsted and Wool Blend (Synthetic Fiber; Cotton) Fabrics STANDARDS mDERAL FED-STD-191 - Textile Test Methods FSC 8305 THIS DOCUMENT CONTAINS PAGES. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-483D 3 W 7777706 037LLL2 7 MIL-C-483D MILITAR

5、Y MIL-STD-105 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes (Copies of specifications, standards, drawings, and publications required by suppliers in connection with specific procurement functions should be obtained from the procuring activity or as directed by the contracting office

6、r . ) PUBLIC ATIONS U. S. Department of Amiculture Methods of Test for Grades of Wool Top (Application for copies should be addressed to the U. S. Department of Agriculture, Agricultural Marketing Service, Washington, DC 20402 .) Rules and Regulations Under the Wool Products Labeling Act of 1939 (Ap

7、plication for copies should be addressed to the Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402.) 3. HEQIREMENTS 3.1 Standard sample. The finished cloth shall match the standard sample for shade and shall be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to al

8、l characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced (see 6.3). 3.2 First article. When specified (see 6.2), the supplier shall furnish a sample for first article inspection and approval (see 4.3 and 6.6). 3.3 Materials. 3.3.1 Yarns. 3.3.1.1 Ground or backing yarns. The ground or backing ya

9、rns (warp and filling) shall be made from cotton, which has been carded, drawn and spun into yarn. For suggested yarn number see 6.5. 3.3.1.2 Pile yarns. 3.3.1.2.1 Tvpes I, II and IX. The pile yarn shall be two ply, drawn and spun on either the Bradford, French or American system from top combed fro

10、m fleece or pulled wool or any combfnation of both. The wool top shall be no lower in grade than 50s nor finer than 56s U. S. Standard. of noils, laps, or any other wool manufacturing by-products is prohibited. The use 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without li

11、cense from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-q3D 3 = 999790b 0373333 9 M MIL-C-483D 3.3.1.2.2 Tvpe VII. The pile yarn shall be 2 ply and made of alpaca fibers, spun on either the Bradford, French or American system from top. The alpaca shall be no less than 56s fineness. The use of noils, laps, or any other alpaca or w

12、ool manufacturing by-products is prohibited. 3.4 Color. The color shall be natural for type VI1 (see 6.4) and natural, or dyed, as specified (see 6.2), for types I, II and IX. shade is specified, the color of the finished cloth shall match the standard sample and shall be obtained by the use of chro

13、me or neutral premetallized dyestuffs by piece, stock or yam dye methods. When a 3.4.1 Matching. The color of the finished cloth shall match the standard sample under natural (north sky) daylight, or artificial daylight b.aving a color temperature of 7500 Kelvin and shall be a good approximation to

14、the standard sample under incandescent lamplight at 2800O Kelvin. 3.4.2 Colorfastness. The dyed and finished cloth shall show fastness to laundering, wet drycleaning, crocking and perspiration equal to or better than the standard sample. designated as applicable to colorfastness, the dyed and finish

15、ed cloth shall show “good“ fastness to laundering, wet drycleaning amd perspiration and shall show a Munsell Value for crocking not lower than 8.5. made as specified in 4.5. When no standard sample has been established or Tests shall be 3.5 Physical requirements. The finished cloth shall conform to

16、the requirements specified in table I when tested as specified in 4.5. TABLE I. Physical requirements (minimum) Weight Yarns per inch Breaking strength per square Backing Pile Pile Animal Tvpe yard warp warp Filling hei pht Warp Filling fiber Ounces Inch Pounds Pounds Percent I 15.0 38 19 32 5/16 i/

17、 65 50 60 II 20.5 38 19 36 112 a 60 70 60 IX 14.0 38 19 32 i14 21 65 50 60 VI1 19.0 54 18 46 112 60 90 55 I/ 2/ 3/ Approximately 5/32 inch on each face. Approximately 114 inch on each face. Approximately 118 inch on each face. 3,5.1 Width. Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), the finished width of

18、the cloth shall be no less than 54 inches, exclusive of selvages. 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-_ MIL-C-483D 3 M 7779706 0371114 O MIL-C-483D 3.5.2 Weave. 3.5.2.1 Tmes I, II and IX. The weave shall be a modified Wit weave, which r

19、epeats on six double picks. Every third double pick is pulled out of the cloth, thereby swinging half a pile tuft from one face to the other, producing the double pile surface, In the finished cloth, the backing is a plain weave repeating on two dents, the second dent being the reverse of the first

20、dent as shown on figure 1. 3.5.2.2 Tvpe ViI. The weave shall be that comercially known as fast pile. The pile shall be interwoven with the backing, each pile tuft being over one under two picks, to be bound into the body of the cloth in a “W“ construction. The backing cloth shall be that comnerciall

21、y known as a two and one binding, in which the backing warp threads weave in sets of three warp threads between the pile ends. on each side and adjacent to the pile thread, weave in pairs. at the back of the cloth, they will pass under two, over one, under two, and over one filling pick thread for e

22、ach repeat of the weave, and will be so arranged that they will be on the opposite side of the filling thread from the pile tuft at each binding. The third ground and end shall weave between the ground threads adjacent to the pile and weave in the opposite direction. A ful repeat of the weave is six

23、 filling picks, six backing warp ends, and two pile ends (see figure 2). Two of these backing warp threads, one When looking 3.6 Finish. The total sizing, finishing, and other nonfibrous materials content of the finished cloth shall not exceed 2.5 percent when tested as specified in 4.5. to within 1

24、/8 inch of the ground cloth and in an upright position. The pile shall be vacuumed to remove the loose fibers. The finished cloth shall show not more than a trace of loose fibers or compound (finishing agents, moth repellent treatment, etc.) when the cloth is shaken vigorously over a smooth black su

25、rface (see 4.5) . be no less than 3.3 nor more than 4,5 when tested as specified in 4.5. The pile shall be tigered, so that the pile tufts are open 3.6.1 pH. The pH value of the water extract of the finished cloth shall 3.6.2 Moth repellent treatment. The cloth shall have a properly applied silico-f

26、luoride moth repellent treatment so that the animal fiber will have a minimum of 0.4 percent and a maximim of 0.7 percent fluorine when tested as specified in 4.5. Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), the cloth The The 3.7 Lennth and put-up. shall be furnished in continuous lengths each not less th

27、an 30 yards. cloth shall be put up in full width rolls as specified in PPP-P-1132. cloth shall be carefully rolled so a8 to avoid permanent creasing or distortion of the pile. 3.8 Wool content label. Cloth manufactured under this specification shall be labeled in accordance with the Wool Products La

28、beling Act of 1939 (see 2.1). 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-93D 3 m 7777906 037LLL5 2 m MIL-C-483D 3.9 Workmanship. The finished cloth shall conform to the quality and grade The occurrence of defects shall of product establi

29、shed by this specification. not exceed the applicable acceptable quality levels. 4, QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS 4.1 Responsibility for inspection. Unless otherwise specified in the Except as otherwise contract or purchase order, the supplier is responsible for the performance of all inspection requ

30、irements as specified herein. specified in the contract or order, the supplier may use his own or any other facilities suitable for the performance of the inspection requirements speci- fied herein, unless disapproved by the Government. The Government reserves the right to perform any of the inspect

31、ions set forth in the specification where such inspections are deemed necessary to assure supplies and services conform to prescribed requirements 4.2 Classification of inspections. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows: a. b. First article inspection (see 4.3). Qual

32、ity conformance inspection (see 4.4). 4.3 First article inspection. When required (see 6.2), the preproduction sample submitted in accordance with 3.2 shall be visually inspected for appearance, color and finish, and shall be tested in accordance with the methods specified in 4.5. 4.4 Qualitv confor

33、mance inspection. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with MIL-STD-105, except where otherwise indicated hereinafter 4.4.1 Component and material inspection. In accordance with 4.1, above, components and materials shall be tested in accordance with all the require- ments of refe

34、renced specifications, drawings, and standards unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this specification or applicable purchase document. 4.4.1.1 Wool. The wool shall be examined for grade in top form by comparison with the applicable U. S. Standard (see 2.1). in the event of a

35、 dispute, the wool grade shall be determined by the width method (wedge). shall be 1 yard of undyed top. be as shown in table II. The result from each sample unit shall be reported separately. be unacceptable if a single sample unit fails to meet the required grade. The sample unit “he sample size (

36、number of sample units) shall The lot size shall be expressed in units of one pound, The lot shall 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-Lt3D 3 = 9999906 037LLLb i-I m KtL-C-483D TABLE II Lot size (pounds) Sample size 800 or less 2

37、801 up to and including 22,000 3 22,001 and over 5 4.4.1.2 Alpaca, The alpaca shall be examined for grade in the top form by comparison with the applicable equivalent U. S. Standard for wool top (see 2.1). In the event of a dispute, the grade of alpaca shall be determined by the width method (wedge)

38、, When the width method is used, the fineness computed as the average of 1,200 fiber measurements per sample unit shall con- form to the average diameter specified for the equivalent grade of wool top. The sample unit shall be 1 yard of undyed top. units) shall be as shown in table II. units of one

39、pound. separately. meet the required grade. The sample size (number of sample The lot size shall be expressed in The results from each sample unit shall be reported The lot shall be unacceptable if a single sample unit fails to 4,4.2 In-process inspection. Inspection shall be made at any point durin

40、g any phase of the manufacturing process to assure that only wools and alpaca that have been approved are being used in the specified proportions and that the dyeing requirements have been adhered to. right to exclude from consideration for acceptance any material for which in-process inspection has

41、 indicated nonconformance. The Government reserves the 4.4.3 Examination of the end item, Examination of the end item?shall be in accordance with 4.4.3.1 through 4.4.3.4. 4.4.3.1 Yard-by-yard examination. The required yardage for types I, II and IX cloths shall be examined for defects listed below o

42、n one side only; however, the side to be examined shall be alternated on successive rolls. The required yardage for type VI1 cloths shall be examined for defects listed below on the pile side and the back shall be examined for holes, cuts, tears and grease spots. observed both on the face and back.

43、The defects found shall be counted regardless of their proximity to each other, except where two or more defects represent a single local condition of the cloth, in which case only one defect shall be counted. A continuous defect shall be counted as one defect for each warpwise yard or fraction ther

44、eof in which it occurs. unit shall be 1 linear yard. The lot size shall be expressed in units of 1 yard each. The acceptable quality level (AQL) shall be 4.0 defects per 100 units (yards). of MIL-STD-105. The number of rolls selected shall be in accordance with table III, roll in the sample. In no e

45、vent shall the same defect be counted twice when The sample The sample size shall be based upon inspection level II An approximately equal number of yards shall be examined in each 6 - Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-Cut, hole, tear M

46、IL-C-483D Defect (one class) Single area, 3/4 inch or more in combined warp and filling directions. NOTE: Cuts, holes or tears on the selvages shall not be scored unless the body of the cloth is affected. Pile missing Areas exceeding 3/4 inch in combined length and width directions. Crushed pile Aff

47、ected area exceeding 3 inches in combined Permanent crease, distorted pile. length and width directions. Pile improperly formed Noticeably shorter than normal or cut unevenly. Uncut pile Six or more contiguous pile. Broken or missing yarns Ground warp or filling, resulting in missing or inadequately

48、 secured pile. Heavy or light filling bar Resulting in unevenly spaced pile. Spot, stain or streak Clearly visible at 3 feet and extending over 1/2 inch or more in combined directions. Narrow width Less than specified. 4.4.3.2 Overall examination. Each defect listed below shall be counted not more t

49、han once in each roll examined. examined on both sides. (number of rolls selected as sample) and the acceptance number (maximum number of defects acceptable) shall be as shown in table III. Types I, II and IX cloths shall be The sample unit shall be one roll. The sample size Defects Degree and character of finish not equal to standard. Pile tufts not opened to within 1/8 inch of ground cloth. Overall uncleanness. Color (when dyed), shaded or mo