DLA A-A-52112 B-1993 SHIRTS MAN-S《男式衬衫》.pdf

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1、 A-A-52332B 9999974 0344832 TTb A-A-5 2 112B June 16, 1993 SUPERSEDING A-A-52112A April 30, 1992 COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTION SHIRTS, MANS The General Services Administration has authorized the use of this Commercial Item Description in preference to MIL-S-44039 and MIL-S-44041. Abstract. This Commer

2、cial Item Description covers the requirements for long- and short-sleeve polyester/cotton broadcloth durable press shirts intended for wear by male military personnel of the Department of the Army. Classification. The shirt shall be in the following types, and sizes: Type 1 - Long Sleeve Type II - S

3、hort Sleeve Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Defense Personnel Support Center, Clothing and Textiles Directorate, Attn: DPSC-FSSD, 2800 South 20th Street, Philadelphia, PA 19101-8

4、419, by using the self-addressed Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. AMSC N/A FSC 8405 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networ

5、king permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-52312B = 9999974 0344833 932 A-A-52112B Schedule of sizes - inches Neck size (Types I and II) Sleeve lengths (Type I only) 29 30pi 32/33 34/35 36/37 3a 13 13-1/2 14 14-1/2 15 15-1/2 16 16-1/2 17 17-1/2 18 X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X

6、 X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X Salient Characteristics. The shirt shall be a long- or short- sleeve dress style with a standup collar and yoke. shall have a seven button front and two pleated breast pockets with button through flaps. It shall also have a pen pocket inside t

7、he left breast pocket, approximately 2-1/4 inches wide, hemmed at the top, open at the bottom, and vertically stitched at the center, forming two compartments. The shirt shall have tapered shoulder loops, cuffs (Type I), and a collar with collarstand. The collar shall contain collar stays. The top p

8、lies of the shoulder loops, pocket flaps, cuffs (Type II), collar and collarstand shall have a fusible interlining. The shirt shall be of a safety stitch construction (See Figures 1 and The shirt 2) Shoulder loos. The tapered shoulder loops shall be approximately 2 inches wide at the armhole and 1-1

9、/2 inches wide at the pointed end and shall be stitched 3/16 to 1/4 inch from the edge. Each shoulder loop shall have a buttonhole centered not more than 1/8 inch off center and 3/8 to 1/2 inch from point of loop. The shoulder loops shall be positioned so that the loop is 1 (+ 1/8) inch in front of

10、shoulder seam at the armhole, and 1/4 (2 1/8) inch in back of shoulder seam at the neck and so that it finishes 3/8 (+ 1/8) inch from the collar joining seam. Collar. The collar points shall finish 3-1/8 (+ 1/16) inches in length and shall have two unslotted, slotted or ultrasonically fused stays me

11、asuring 2-3/4 to 2-7/8 inches long and 3/8 to 1/2 inch wide. The collar ends shall be centered at equal distances from the center of the shirt front and shall open 5/8 inch to 7/8 inch when the collar is buttoned. 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license

12、 from IHS-,-,-A-A-52112B = 9999974 014434 879 A-A-52112B 0 Pocket and pocket flaps. The pocket flaps shall have one buttonhole. It shall be centered and 3/8 to 1/2 inch from bottom edge of flap. The flap shall be edge-stitched 3/16 to 1/4 inch from edges, and the tops of flap corners shall be tacked

13、. The pocket depth at center for all sizes shall finish 5-7/8 (+ 3/16) inches and the finished width shall be 5 (+ 3/16) inches wide with a 1-1/4 inch wide pleat (+ 1/16, - 1/8 inch tolerance) for all sizes. The pockets and flaps shall be in parallel alignment with each other and the front edge of s

14、hirt. The ends of pocket openings shall be covered by the flap. The distance between the top of pocket and the top folded flap edge on the finished shirt shall be 3/4 (+ 1/8) ,inch. The pocket shall be sewn on the fronts 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the edge with stitching continuing 1/4 to 3/8 inch across

15、 the top of pockets and 1/2 to 5/8 inch diagonally down to the line of pocket stitching. Sleeves. The Type II shirt sleeves shall have a 1 (+ 1/8) inch wide hem. The Type I and II shirt bottoms shall have a 1/8 to 5/16 inch wide hem. Material. The basic material shall be 65 the breaking strength.sha

16、l1 be a minimum of 2 pounds in the machine direction; and the bond strength, when fused to the shell material, shall be a minimum of 32 ounces. As an alternate, the collar may be fused with a plain weave cotton substrate coated with a polyester or polyethylene adhesive. Ttal weight of the fusible sh

17、all be a minimum of 1.4 ounces per square yard. The substrate shall have a minimum of 44 ends and 40 picks and have a breaking strength of 10 pounds per square inch in both the warp and filling direction. If automatic creasebanding collarstand equipment is used, the fusible material shall be on a no

18、nwoven, thermal bonded polyester substrate coated on both sides with a polyvinyl aetate co-polymer adhesive. The total weight of the fusible shall be a minimum of 1.4 ounces per square yard. As an alternate, a woven 100% cotton substrate coated on both sides with the polyvinyl acetate may be used. t

19、otal weight of the fusible shall be a minimum of 1.8 ounces per square yard. The coatings on both of the above materials shall be transitory in nature such that the adhesive shall wash out after two washings. The Collar stavs. The collar stays shall be made from polyethylene- terephthalate plastic s

20、heet, thickness 0.014 one stating the identification information and one stating the instruction information. The labels shall be yellow and the identification label shall be located on the outside left front bottom (as worn), and the instruction label shall be located on the outside right front bot

21、tom (as worn). The shirts shall also have a size label. The label shall be marked on the center of the collarstand by either direct printing, stamping, or stenciling, and shall not be less than 1/4 inch from the seam joining the collarstand to the neck. The label shall show “good“ colorfastness to l

22、aundering in accordance with AATCC Test Method 61. Label/taq. Each shirt shall be individually bar-coded with the Type VIII, Class 17 label/tag of DDD-L-20. This label/tag shall be located so that it is completely visible on the packaged garment and shall cause no damage to the garment. 5 Provided b

23、y IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-52112B = 9999974 0144837 588 A-A-52 112B Patterns. The government shall furnish a single size pattern. The contractor is responsible for grading patterns for additional sizes. The patterns provide for a seam

24、allowance of 114 inch for joining seams except 318 inch for setting the pen and breast pockets, collar setting, and seaming. The government patterns shall be used to make the contractors working patterns. The government patterns shall not be altered in any way. The working patterns may be modified t

25、o accommodate automation; however, if the working patterns are modified, the design and measurements must be maintained as intended by government patterns. Sizes and Measurements. The finished Types I and II shirts shall conform to the measurements below. Table I. Finished measurements (in inches) S

26、hirt Neck 112 Back Collar Size Size i/ Chest 21 Length 21 Opening 41 13 13-112 13-112 14 14 14-112 14-112 15 15 15-112 15-112 16 16 16-112 16-112 17 17-112 18 18 18-112 17 13-112 Tolerance: Plus: 118 Minus : 118 18-112 19-112 20-112 21-112 22-112 23-112 24-112 25-112 26-112 27-112 28-112 30-114 518

27、to 718 30-112 inch 30-314 (applicable 31 to all 31-1/4 sizes) 31-112 31-314 32 32-114 32-112 32-314 L/ Neck measurement shall be taken from center of button to front cut end of buttonhole, with collar in flat position. 2/ Chest measurement shall be taken from folded edge to folded edge at base of ar

28、mhole with shirt buttoned (see A of Figures 1 and 2). 21 Back length measurement shall be taken at center back from collar setting seam to bottom edge of shirt (see B of Figures 1 and 2). 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-52LLZB 9

29、999974 0194838 414 U ITolerance: Minus 1/4 Plus 1/2 A-A-52112B A/ Collar opening measurement shall be taken with the shirt buttoned and placed on a flat surface. Without distorting collar, measure across collar opening from ends of collar at joining seam. Table II. Finished sleeve measurements (in i

30、nches) (Type I only) Marked sleeve length Actual measurements thread color not as specified; shaded part or shade variation; spot, stain, or woven-in waste; permanent fold, pleat, or crease; thread ends not trimmed; any component part not as specified or omitted; seam puckered, distorted, pleated, i

31、rregular or open; loose or tight stitch tension; seam allowance not as specified; 8 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-52332B 9999974 0344840 072 A-A-52112B shoulder loop not positioned as specified or attached crookedly; breast pock

32、et or flap not uniform in size or shape; measurement varying from pocket to pocket or flap to flap by more than 3/8 inch; pocket/flap out of alignment at any point from pocket to pocket or flap to flap by 1/4 inch or more; fronts uneven in length at bottom when buttoned by more than 1/2 inch; button

33、 missing, broken, misplaced or not of the specified type or color; buttonhole missing, of improper size, misaligned, not clearly cut or formed, or not of the specified type; collar points uneven in length by more than 1/8 inch; collar ends opening less than 5/8 inch or more than 7/8 inch when collar

34、 is buttoned; collar stay missing, misplaced or loose; fusible twisted, causing puckers or pleats; any evidence of bleed- through; label omitted, incorrect or illegible; bar code label/tag omitted or not scannable, human-readable interpretation (HRI) omitted or illegible; measurement of item not as

35、specified. Dimensional Examination. The finished shirts shall conform to the dimensions specified. Any dimension that is not within the established tolerance shall be classified as a defect. The sample unit shall be one shirt; the inspection level shall be S-3 and the AQL, expressed in terms of defe

36、cts per hundred units, shall be 2.5. any Packaqinq Examination. shall be examined in accordance with defects listed below. The lot size shall be the number of shipping containers in the inspection lot. The inspection level shall be S-1 and the AQL, expressed in terms of defects per hundred units, sh

37、all be 4.0. The fully packaged shipping containers EXAMINE DEFECT Marking Omitted; incorrect; illegible; (exterior and interior) of improper size, location, or method of application Materials Workmanship Any component missing, damaged, Inadequate application of or not as specified components, such a

38、s: incomplete closure of container flaps, loose strapping, improper taping, or inadequate stapling 9 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-52112B m 9999974 0144841 TO9 m A-A-52112B EXAMINE DEFECT Content Palletization Number of items in

39、 container is more or less than required NSN shown on one or more items not as specified on shipping container Length, width, or height exceeds specified maximum requirements Pallet type not as specified Load not bonded as specified End Item Performance Testinq Seam appearance ratina. Seam appearanc

40、e rating shall be carried out according to AATCC test method 143. Prior to evaluation, the shirts shall be laundered 3 times using-the following conditions from Table I of the test method: Machine cycle 3 - permanent press Wash temperature IV - 120 & 5OF Drying procedure A III - tumble dry, permanen

41、t press After laundering, the buttons shall be fastened and the shirts hung on clothes hangers to condition for a minimum of 4 hours at 70F and 65% RH (standard conditions for textile testing). The buttoned shirts shall be hung on the viewing board in such a manner that the shirt lies flat on the su

42、rface of the board and shall then be evaluated according to 9.1, 9.2, 9.3 and 9.5 of the test method. Seams appearing to fall between the numerical values of the photographic standards may be rated 1.5, 2.5, 3.5 or 4.5. Reisortina of results. Each rating value assigned by each of the observers shall

43、 be recorded. The average of the rating values assigned by the 3 observers to the same area shall be the rating value for that area. If the rating of the same area by two observers differs by more than 1.0, the rating of all three observers made for that area shall be discarded and the area shall be

44、 re-evaluated by 3 different trained observers. Minimum seam appearance ratings for the different areas shall be as follows : 10 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-52132B W 9999974 0344842 945 A-A-52112B Reportins of results. Each ra

45、ting value assigned by each of the observers shall be recorded. The average of the rating values assigned by the 3 observers to the same area shall be the rating value for that area. If the rating of the same area by two observers differs by more than 1.0, the rating of all three observers made for

46、that area shall be discarded and the area shall be re-evaluated by 3 different trained observers. Minimum seam appearance ratings for the different areas shall be as follows: Parts Fused collar Fused shoulder loops Fused pocket flaps Pockets Armholes Sleeve hems Side seams Underarm seams Yoke Minimu

47、m Averase of 3 observations 3.8 3.8 3.8 2.8 2.8 2.8 2.8 2.8 2.8 Fusible resistance to launderinq. After the shirt has been laundered 3 times, using the same laundering conditions as for seam evaluation above, the shirt shall show no bubbling or delamination of the fused plies of material. There shal

48、l be no showing of !strike throught1 of the adhesive after fusing. Additionally, the shirt shall show no delamination or curling of the ultrasonically fused collar stays (when used). Durable press and crease-resistant treatment. Approval of the durable resin for utilization under this document is th

49、e responsibility of the US Army Natick Research, Development, and Engineering Center, Natick, MA 01760-5014 and is based on extensive tests, including those for toxicity which are not set forth in this document. Because of the time necessary to conduct a full evaluation (approximately 6 months), only those treatments approved and so listed in the invitation for bids or request for proposals shall be considered acceptable for related procu