BS 7141-3-1990 Narrow fabrics - Specification for wool tapes《窄幅织物 第3部分 羊毛织带规范》.pdf

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1、BRITISH STANDARD BS 7141-3: 1990 Narrow fabrics Part 3: Specification for wool tapes UDC 677.074.3.33:677.31:620.1:006.3/.8BS7141-3:1990 This British Standard, having been prepared underthe directionof theTextiles and ClothingStandards Policy Committee, was published underthe authorityof the Boardof

2、BSIand comes into effecton 31 May 1990 BSI 11-1999 The following BSI references relate to the work on this standard: Committee reference TCM/7 Draft for comment 87/42605 DC ISBN 0 580 18138 3 Committees responsible for this British Standard The preparation of this British Standard was entrusted by t

3、he Textiles and Clothing Standards Policy Committee (TCM/-) to Technical Committee TCM/7, upon which the following bodies were represented: British Narrow Fabrics Association British Polyolefin Textiles Association Consumer Policy Committee of BSI Home Laundering Consultative Council Man-made Fibres

4、 Producers Committee Ministry of Defence SATRA Footwear Technology Centre Society of Dyers and Colourists Textile Institute Amendments issued since publication Amd. No. Date of issue CommentsBS7141-3:1990 BSI 11-1999 i Contents Page Committees responsible Inside front cover Foreword ii 1 Scope 1 2 D

5、efinitions 1 3 Materials 1 4 Construction 1 5 Sampling 1 6 Marking 2 Appendix A Cross-references 7 Appendix B Supplementary information for MoD contracts 7 Figure 1 Weave diagram for items 1, 3 and 9 8 Figure 2 Weave diagram for items 2, 5, 6, 7 and 19 8 Figure 3 Weave diagram for item 4 8 Figure 4

6、Weave diagram for item 8 8 Figure 5 Weave diagram for items 10 and 11 9 Figure 6 Weave diagram for item 12 9 Figure 7 Weave diagram for items 13, 14, 17 and 18 9 Figure 8 Weave diagram for item 15 9 Figure 9 Weave diagram for item 16 10 Figure 10 Weave diagram for item 20 10 Figure 11 Weave diagram

7、for item 21 10 Figure 12 Weave diagram for item 22 10 Table 1 Requirements for tapes 3 Table 2 Colour fastness 6 Table 3 Cross-references 7 Table 4 MoD items no longer to be purchased 7 Publications referred to Inside back coverBS7141-3:1990 ii BSI 11-1999 Foreword This Part of BS7141 has been prepa

8、red under the direction of the Textiles and Clothing Standards Policy Committee. It includes requirements for narrow fabrics specified in Defence Standard 83-37, which has been withdrawn. Cross-references are given inAppendix A and information specifically requested by the Ministry of Defence, and w

9、hich was previously contained in Defence Standards, is given inAppendix B. Appendix C gives additional recommendations. Other Parts of this British Standard are as follows: Part 1: Specification for polyamide and polyolefin woven tapes and webbings 1) ; Part 2: Specification for cotton webbings for

10、personal load carrying purposes 1) ; Part 4: Specification for woven elastic webbings containing natural rubber 1) ; Part 5: Specification for elastic flat braids containing natural rubber; Part 6: Specification for laces for boots, shoes and other purposes. Product certification. Users of this Brit

11、ish Standard are advised to consider the desirability of third party certification of product conformity with this BritishStandard based on testing and continuing surveillance, which may be coupled with assessment of a suppliers quality systems against the appropriate Part of BS5750. Enquiries as to

12、 the availability of third party certification schemes will be forwarded by BSI to the Association of Certification Bodies. If a third party certification scheme does not already exist, users should consider approaching an appropriate body from the list of Association members. A British Standard doe

13、s not purport to include all the necessary provisions of a contract. Users of British Standards are responsible for their correct application. Compliance with a British Standard does not of itself confer immunity from legal obligations. In particular, attention is drawn to the Textile Products (Indi

14、cations of Fibre Content) Regulations S.I. 1986 No. 26. Summary of pages This document comprises a front cover, an inside front cover, pages i and ii, pages1 to 10, an inside back cover and a back cover. This standard has been updated (see copyright date) and may have had amendments incorporated. Th

15、is will be indicated in the amendment table on the inside front cover. 1) In preparationBS7141-3:1990 BSI 11-1999 1 1 Scope This Part of BS7141 specifies requirements including colour fastness ratings for wool tapes, used mainly in the manufacture of chevron stripes, flashes, etc., for the Ministry

16、of Defence (MoD). NOTEThe titles of the publications referred to in this standard are listed on the inside back cover. 2 Definitions For the purposes of this Part of BS7141, the following definitions apply. 2.1 narrow fabric any fabric made by interlacing fibres or yarns which (in the UK) does not e

17、xceed450mm in width. In the USA and for the purpose of the Combined Nomenclature of the European Community, for tariff purposes, the upper width limit is300mm. A characteristic of a narrow fabric is that its edges are an essential feature 2.2 pick a single operation of the weft insertion mechanism i

18、n weaving 2.3 selvedge when used without qualification, a longitudinal edge of a fabric formed during weaving, with the weft not only turning at the edges but also passing continuously across the width of the fabric from edge to edge 2.4 shuttleloom a term used to describe a weaving machine that use

19、s a shuttle to insert the weft 2.5 tape a woven narrow fabric, generally plain-weave, used in non-loadbearing applications and for the reinforcing of fabrics to resist wear and deformation 2.6 V draft in twill fabrics having alternate right and left twills forming a series of Vs, the number of V for

20、mations across the fabric width 2.7 weave the pattern of interlacing of warp yarns and weft yarns in a woven fabric 2.8 batch a definite quantity of some commodity produced under prescribed uniform conditions 3 Materials The fabric shall be manufactured from100% new wool, except for those items spec

21、ified otherwise inTable 1. NOTEWorsted yarn of R74/2 tex and cotton or viscose yarn of R30/2 tex may be suitable to produce these fabrics. 4 Construction 4.1 The construction of the tapes shall comply withTable 1. 4.2 The tape shall be woven by shuttleloom. 4.3 The finished tapes shall not contain m

22、ore than1% by mass of grease, soap, filling, or any admixture used to increase the mass per metre or to give substance or firmness. NOTEIn cases of dispute, the percentage should be determined in accordance withBS3582. 4.4 Sulphur black dyes shall not be used. 4.5 In finished tapes which are chrome

23、dyed, the amount of soluble hexavalent chromium shall not exceed0.01%, calculated as K 2 Cr 2 O 7when determined in accordance with BS6810. 4.6 The minimum colour fastness of the yarn or finished fabric shall comply withTable 2. NOTEIf the colour fastness of the yarn has been tested prior to manufac

24、ture, there is no need to carry out further tests after manufacture. 5 Sampling Samples shall not be taken from the first3m of textile manufactured. Sampling shall be as follows. a) Woven fabrics, loomstate. 1) For fabrics woven from beams, take one sample from one piece per beam. NOTEThe quantity o

25、f fabric produced from one weavers beam or from a creel contains the same warp yarns throughout and is woven in one particular form. As such, it constitutes a unique batch or unit of production, provided that weft yarn of substantially consistent quality has been used. If a fresh delivery of weft ya

26、rn of unproved quality is introduced during weaving the warp, a fresh batch has been created and further samples for complete fabric tests become necessary. Manufacturers should maintain continuous quality control of weft yarn in respect of the relevant properties, e.g. type of fibre, linear density

27、, strength. 2) For fabrics woven from creels, take one sample from one piece from each continuously woven length not exceeding5000m.BS7141-3:1990 2 BSI 11-1999 3) If several narrow fabrics are woven simultaneously in the same loom, take one sample from each continuously woven length not exceeding500

28、0m. b) Woven fabrics piece treated. 1) For woven fabrics already proved by test in loomstate, take one sample from one piece per finishers batch per fabric type and manufacturer. 2) For woven fabrics not subject to test in loomstate, take one sample from one piece per weavers beam or each continuous

29、ly woven length not exceeding 5000m per finishers batch. 3) If a finishers batch consists of further pieces from a weavers beam, or from continuously woven lengths previously proved by test in the finished condition, take one sample from one piece from the finishers batch. In the event of dispute, s

30、amples shall be pre-conditioned for4h at a relative humidity not exceeding10% and at a temperature not greater than50 C and subsequently exposed to the standard temperate atmosphere for testing textiles as defined in BS1051 for not less than24h, and then tested without removal from that atmosphere.

31、6 Marking The tapes shall be provided with a ticket or other means of marking attached to each container and carrying the following information: a) the number and date of this Part of BS 7141, i.e. BS7141-3:1990 2) ; b) the reference number of the product in accordance withTable 1; c) the name, trad

32、emark or other means of identification of the manufacturer. NOTEFor MoD contracts (seeAppendix B) additional information will also include, for example, the contract number, the NATO stock number (where appropriate, seeTable 3), the pattern number (seeTable 1) and the item name and description (seeT

33、able 1). 2) Marking BS7141-3:1990 on or in relation to a product represents a manufacturers declaration of conformity, i.e. a claim by or on behalf of the manufacturer that the product meets the requirements of the standard. The accuracy of the claim is therefore solely the responsibility of the per

34、son making the claim. Such a declaration is not to be confused with third party certification of conformity, which may also be desirable.BS 7141-3:1990 BSI 11-1999 3 Table 1 Requirements for tapes Reference number Item name Item description MoD pattern number Previous MoD pattern number replaced Nom

35、inal width a(determined in accordance with BS 1930) Total ends inwidth (determined in accordance with BS 2862) Minimum picks per 100mm (determined in accordance with BS 2862) Mass per 100m ( 3%) (determined in accordance with BS 2471) Weave Other details mm kg 1 Tape textile Wool, worsted, blue 9052

36、 A NF 1501 25 60 149 0.732 2/2 twill, 1.1/2 V draft as Figure 1 2 fold wool worsted yarn (weft) 2 Wool, worsted, black 9067 A NF 1506 16 34 141 0.441 2/2 twill, 1.1/2 V draft as Figure 2 2 fold wool worsted yarn (weft) 3 Wool, worsted, elcho(brown) for kilt binding 9068 A NF 1507 25 60 157 0.667 2/2

37、 twill, 1.1/2 V draft as Figure 1 2 fold wool worsted yarn (weft) 4 Wool, worsted, light blue 9359 A 17277 25 60 180 0.732 2/2 twill, 1.1/2 V draft as Figure 3 2 fold wool worsted yarn (weft) 5 Wool, worsted, blue 9399 A NF 1508 13 34 141 0.403 2/2 twill, V draft asFigure 2 2 fold wool worsted yarn

38、(weft) 6 Wool, worsted, scarlet 9399 B NF 1502 13 34 141 0.403 2/2 twill, V draft asFigure 2 2 fold wool worsted yarn (weft) 7 Wool, worsted, yellow 9399 C NF 1510 13 34 141 0.403 2/2 twill, V draft asFigure 2 2 fold wool worsted yarn (weft) 8 Wool, worsted, khaki 9400 A NF 1511 22 54 149 0.667 2/2

39、twill, 1.1/2 V draft as Figure 4 2 fold wool worsted yarn (weft) 9 Wool, worsted, green, Highlanders 9400 B NF 1509 22 60 149 0.667 2/2 twill, 1.1/2 V draft as Figure 1 2 fold wool worsted yarn (weft) 10 Wool, worsted, saffron 9401 A NF 1514 38 110 141 1.162 2/2 twill, 1.1/2 V draft as Figure 5 2 fo

40、ld wool worsted yarn (weft)BS 7141-3:1990 4 BSI 11-1999 Table 1 Requirements for tapes Reference number Item name Item description MoD pattern number Previous MoD pattern number replaced Nominal width a(determined in accordance with BS 1930) Total ends inwidth (determined in accordance with BS 2862)

41、 Minimum picks per 100mm (determined in accordance with BS 2862) Mass per 100m ( 3%) (determined in accordance with BS 2471) Weave Other details mm kg 11 Wool, worsted, scarlet 9402 A NF 1532 38 110 165 1.141 2/2 twill, V draft asFigure 5 2 fold wool worsted yarn (weft) 12 Wool, worsted, green 9422

42、A 3161 A 16 40 165 0.452 2/2 twill, V draft asFigure 6 2 fold wool worsted yarn (weft) 13 Webbing textile Wool, worsted, yellow, RM 9051 A NF 1533 13 55 141 0.602 2/2 twill, V draft asFigure 7 2 fold wool worsted yarn (weft) 14 Wool, worsted, scarlet, RM 9051 B NF 1504 13 55 141 0.602 2/2 twill, V d

43、raft asFigure 7 2 fold wool worsted yarn (weft) 15 Wool, worsted, chevron 9374 A NF 1512 13 Total ends 85, i.e. 36 ground worsted, 49(7 7) mercerized cotton. 13figure including 6ends worsted interwoven with 7 ends cotton 141 0.581 2/2 twill, V draft asFigure 8 Bleached cotton, white, for chevron fig

44、uring 16 Wool, worsted, khaki 9421 A S/2227 13 40 100 0.775 Twill, as Figure 9 2 fold wool worsted yarn (weft) 17 Wool, worsted, white 9427 A 3960 13 55 148 0.602 2/2 twill, V draft asFigure 7 2 fold wool worsted yarn (weft) 18 Wool, worsted, scarlet No: 2 9429 A S/4099 13 55 141 0.602 2/2 twill, V

45、draft asFigure 7 pattern 2 fold wool worsted yarn (weft)BS 7141-3:1990 BSI 11-1999 5 Table 1 Requirements for tapes Reference number Item name Item description MoD pattern number Previous MoD pattern number replaced Nominal width a(determined in accordance with BS 1930) Total ends inwidth (determine

46、d in accordance with BS 2862) Minimum picks per 100mm (determined in accordance with BS 2862) Mass per 100m ( 3%) (determined in accordance with BS 2471) Weave Other details mm kg 19 Wool, worsted, Footguards 9423 A 7581 13 34 140 0.354 2/2 twill, V draft as Figure 2 2 fold wool worsted yarn (weft)

47、20 Wool, worsted, Footguards and Drummer 9424 A 3957 16 40 140 0.462 2/2 twill, V draft as Figure 10 2 fold wool worsted yarn (weft) 21 Wool, worsted, Footguards 9425 A 3958 20 50 140 0.561 2/2 twill, V draft as Figure 11 2 fold wool worsted yarn (weft) 22 Wool, worsted, Footguards 9426 A 3959 25 10

48、8 140 1.16 2/2 twill, V draft as Figure 12 2 fold wool worsted yarn (weft) a Subject to a tolerance of 2.0mm.BS7141-3:1990 6 BSI 11-1999 Table 2 Colour fastness Agency Method of test Requirements Light using xenon lamp BS 1006-B02 5,6 Water-staining, wool BS 1006-E01 4,5 Water-staining, cotton BS 10

49、06-E01 4,5 Dry cleaning, change of colour BS 1006-D01 4,5 Perspiration, change in colour a BS 1006-E04 (both acid and alkaline) 4,5 Perspiration, staining wool and cotton a BS 1006-E04 (both acid and alkaline) 4,5 a This test is applicable to reference number 3 item only.BS7141-3:1990 BSI 11-1999 7 Appendix A Cross-references Cross-references between the reference numbers specified in this Part of BS 7141 and NATO stock numbers are shown inTable 3. Table 3 Cross-references Appendix B Supplementary info