BS 6131-1982 Glossary of terms relating to household sewing machines《家用缝纫机的术语词汇》.pdf

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1、BRITISH STANDARD BS 6131:1982 Glossary of Terms relating to household sewing machines UDC 687.053:001.4BS6131:1982 This British Standard, having been prepared under the directionof the Textile MachineryStandards Committee,was published underthe authority of the BoardofBSI and comes intoeffecton 30 J

2、une 1982 BSI 12-1999 The following BSI references relate to the work on this standard: Committee reference TMM/71 Draft for comment 80/35245 DC ISBN 0 580 12605 6 Cooperating organizations The Textile Machinery Standards Committee, under whose direction this British Standard was prepared, consists o

3、f representatives from the following: British Textile Employers Association British Textile Machinery Association Clothing Manufacturers Federation of Great Britain Confederation of British Wool Textile Industries Health and Safety Executive Institution of Mechanical Engineers Institution of Product

4、ion Engineers Joint Standing Committee for the Wool Textile Industry Lambeg Industrial Research Association Society of Dyers and Colourists Textile Institute Textile Research Council* The organization marked with an asterisk in the above list, together with the following, were directly represented o

5、n the Technical Committee entrusted with the preparation of this British Standard: British Apparel Manufacturers Association Ltd. British Association of Clothing Machinery Manufacturers Clothing and Footwear Institute Consumer Standards Advisory Committee of BSI Consumers Association Mail Order Trad

6、ers Association of Great Britain Overall Manufacturers Association of Great Britain Coopted members Amendments issued since publication Amd. No. Date of issue CommentsBS6131:1982 BSI 12-1999 i Contents Page Cooperating organizations Inside front cover Foreword iii 0.1 Scope 1 0.2 Reference 1 Section

7、 1. Terms and definitions 1 Section 2. Illustrations of machine parts and accessories 9 Appendix A Alternative terms 31 Figure 1 Illustration of lower straight thread 5 Figure 2 Illustration of upper straight thread 9 Figure 3 General view illustrating machine bed and extension table 10 Figure 4 Bob

8、bin 10 Figure 5 Bobbin and bobbin case 11 Figure 6 Bobbin case position plate 11 Figure 7 Bobbin case positioning stud and bobbin latch 11 Figure 8 Bobbin winder spindle and winder stop 12 Figure 9 Bobbin winder tension 12 Figure 10 Buttonhole foot 13 Figure 11 Button sewing foot 13 Figure 12 Cloth

9、guide 13 Figure 13 Cording presser foot 14 Figure 14 Edge stitcher 14 Figure 15 Extension table 14 Figure 16 General view of sewing head illustrating face plate 15 Figure 17 Feed dogs 15 Figure 18 Feeding foot 16 Figure 19 Illustration of free arm of a free arm machine 16 Figure 20 Hand wheel 17 Fig

10、ure 21 Presser foot parts 17 Figure 22 Hemmer 18 Figure 23 Looper 19 Figure 24 Needle plate and slide plate 20 Figure 25 Needle position dial and needle position lever 20 Figure 26 Needle threader 21 Figure 27 General view of sewing head illustrating take-up lever 22 Figure 28 General view illustrat

11、ing needle thread tensioner 23 Figure 29 Pattern disc and pattern disc holder 24 Figure 30 Presser bar and presser bar lifting lever 24 Figure 31 General illustration of presser foot 25 Figure 32 Button sewing presser foot 25 Figure 33 Gathering presser foot 25 Figure 34 Darning and embroidery press

12、er foot 26 Figure 35 General purpose presser foot 26 Figure 36 Straight stitch presser foot 26 Figure 37 Zipper or cording presser foot 27 Figure 38 Detachable plate type presser foot 27 Figure 39 Quilter 28 Figure 40 Rotary hook 29BS6131:1982 ii BSI 12-1999 Page Figure 41 Shuttle 29 Figure 42 Sprea

13、der 29 Figure 43 Types of zipper feet 30 Publication referred to Inside back coverBS6131:1982 BSI 12-1999 iii Foreword This British Standard, which is published under the direction of the Textile Machinery Standards Committee, is based essentially on the work of ISO Technical Committee148 “Sewing ma

14、chines” of the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) but as the discussions within that ISO Technical Committee in respect of terminology also concern industrial type sewing machines it has been decided that a British Standard for terminology of domesticor household machines should be

15、 published without awaiting the conclusion of the deliberations in ISO/TC148. Account has also been taken of thework of ISO/TC38/SC10 “Stitches, seams and stitchings”. This glossary is divided into 2 sections. Section1 consists of the terms and their definitions in alphabetical order. Section2 inclu

16、des illustrations of machine parts and accessories. Appendix A lists alternative terms, not listed separately in section1, with a cross-reference to the numbers of the more usual terms which are listed alphabetically in section1. A British Standard does not purport to include all the necessary provi

17、sions of a contract. Users of British Standards are responsible for their correct application. Compliance with a British Standard does not of itself confer immunity from legal obligations. Summary of pages This document comprises a front cover, an inside front cover, pagesi toiv, pages1to32, an insi

18、de back cover and a back cover. This standard has been updated (see copyright date) and may have had amendments incorporated. This will be indicated in the amendment table on the inside front cover.iv blankBS6131:1982 BSI 12-1999 1 0.1 Scope This British Standard lists terms and definitions and prov

19、ides a selected illustrated nomenclature of the principal features of household sewing machines, their accessories and ancillary equipment and includes a basic vocabulary of sewing terms and techniques relevant to the use of domestic or household sewing machines. 0.2 Reference The title of the publi

20、cation referred to in this British Standard is given on the inside back cover. Section 1. Terms and definitions NOTESee Appendix A for alternative terms which are not listed separately but appear in this glossary with the more usual terms which are numbered and listed alphabetically. No. Term Defini

21、tion 1 appliqu A motif affixed to a garment for ornamentation. 2 automatic A machine that can complete an operation, e.g. buttonholing, without the need for the operator to intervene or control the movement of the cloth. 3 back stitch A reverse stitch used in a bar tack or at the beginning and end o

22、f the seam for reinforcement. 4 bar tack A series (or bar) of closely spaced zig-zag stitches used to reinforce the ends of buttonholes, flies, pockets, belt hoops and other similar openings and junctures to prevent tearing. 5 basting Tacking with temporary stitches to hold garment parts in the corr

23、ect position for a subsequent permanent sewing operation. Sometimes the garment is basted together for a first try-on. 6 bed The sewing platform that supports the needle plate and slide plate. It contains the lower sewing mechanisms. NOTESee Figure 3. 7 bight The distance between the extreme positio

24、ns of the traverse movement of the needle (e.g.width of a zig-zag type stitch). 8 binding Covering the edge of a seam with an additional piece of material (seealso cording, 34 and piping, 93). A special presser foot may be required. 9 blind stitch A stitch that does not go right through the cloth. 1

25、0 blind stitch hemming A seam in which the stitch is not easily discerned on the material. It is made by presenting the material to the needle in a particular way. A special presser foot may be required. 11 bobbin A spool containing the lower thread. NOTESee Figure 4. 12 bobbin case The container fo

26、r the bobbin allowing the lower thread to be unwound as required and at an even tension. The case usually includes a tension spring that controls the tension of the lower thread as it is unwound. With some types of shuttle and hook the function of the bobbin case is designed into the shuttle or hook

27、 body thus eliminating the need for a separate bobbin case or case holder. NOTESee Figure 5. 13 bobbin case holder That part of a shuttle or hook that holds the bobbin case in a stationary position allowing the bobbin to unwind within it and the shuttle or hook to revolve around it during stitch for

28、mation.BS6131:1982 2 BSI 12-1999 No. Term Definition 14 bobbin case holderlatch The lever or spring that holds the bobbin case in position. 15 bobbin case position plate A plate that holds the bobbin case in its correct position. NOTESee Figure 6. 16 bobbin case positioning stud A stud that locates

29、the bobbin case in its correct position. NOTESee Figure 7. 17 bobbin latch A device that allows changing from sewing to bobbin winding without removing the bobbin from the bobbin case. NOTESee Figure 7. 18 bobbin thread tensionscrew The screw for adjusting the tension applied to the lower thread. NO

30、TESee Figure 5. 19 bobbin winder A device for filling a bobbin with thread quickly and evenly. It may be located internally or externally on the machine. NOTESee Figure 8. 20 bobbin winder engaging latch/lever/switch The switch to engage the bobbin winder for winding. 21 bobbin winder pulley The whe

31、el that runs against the hand wheel to drive the bobbin winder spindle. 22 bobbin winder spindle The pin for holding the bobbin while it is being wound with thread. NOTESee Figure 8. 23 bobbin winder stop A device for stopping the bobbin winder when the bobbin has been filled with the correct amount

32、 of thread. NOTESee Figure 8. 24 bobbin winder tension A device that regulates the tension on the thread when the bobbin is being wound. NOTESee Figure 9. 25 braiding Affixing braid to a garment. A special presser foot may be required. 26 button sewing Affixing buttons. 27 button sewing foot A press

33、er foot designed to assist in affixing buttons to a garment. NOTESee Figure 11 andFigure 32. 28 buttonhole foot A presser foot designed specifically to assist in overedging the cut edges of a buttonhole. NOTESee Figure 10. 29 buttonholing Formation of a buttonhole. 30 chain stitch (using single thre

34、ad) A class of stitch formed with one needle thread and characterized by intralooping. A loop of thread is passed through the material and secured by intralooping with the succeeding loop after it has passed through the material to form a stitch. NOTESee stitch class100, BS3870. 31 chain stitch (usi

35、ngtwo or morethreads) A class of stitch formed with two or more groups of threads and characterized by the interlacing and interlooping of the loops of the two groups. Loops of one group of threads are passed through the material and are secured by interlacing and interlooping with loops of another

36、group to form a stitch. NOTESee stitch class400, BS3870.BS6131:1982 BSI 12-1999 3 No. Term Definition 32 cloth guide An attachment to aid in attaining uniformity of seam width. NOTESee Figure 12. 33 convertible bed machine A machine that may be used as either a flat bed or free arm machine without a

37、ddition or subtraction of parts. 34 cording Sewing a braided or raised edge on a garment (see also binding, 8 and piping, 93). A special presser foot may be required. NOTESee Figure 13. 35 darning Mending a tear, hole or worn part of the material. 36 decorative stitch A stitch produced by a machine-

38、controlled sequence forming a decorative pattern. It may be of lock stitch or chain stitch type. 37 direct lubrication Lubrication by means of open oil holes located to deliver lubricant directly to the bearing surface. The lubricant is applied manually. 38 edge stitcher An attachment, in the form o

39、f a presser foot, to enable stitching to be kept accurately on the extreme edge of the material. NOTESee Figure 14. 39 embroidery A sequence of stitch types produced by manual control of the material to produce an ornamental pattern. 40 extension table An extension to the working surface of a free a

40、rm machine or a flat bed machine. NOTESee Figure 15. 41 face plate The cover on the sewing head end of the machine arm. NOTESee Figure 16. 42 fagotting stitch A modified zig-zag stitch for joining materials and allowing a narrow gap between the two edges. The machine performs a cycle of three stitch

41、es, the first through one piece of material, the second in the aperture and the third through the second piece of material. Applicable to lock stitch machines only. 43 feed dog A toothed (or flat) surface acting against the underside of the material being sewn and operating to move the material regu

42、larly and evenly under the sewing head. NOTESee Figure 17. 44 feed throw-out A mechanism enabling the operator to drop the lower feed so that it will not rise above the throat plate, thus rendering the lower feed inoperative. It is used during darning or embroidery operations. It is sometimes improp

43、erly referred to as “drop feed”. 45 feeding foot A presser foot that alternately engages and disengages with the upper surface of the material and that is driven so that it feeds the material. NOTESee Figure 18. 46 felling Joining two thicknesses (or more) of material in which one edge of the materi

44、al is folded over to conceal the raw edge. 47 flagging The rising and falling of material caused by the needle movement. It may occur also when there is too large an opening for the needle in the needle plate, allowing the material to be dragged into the needle hole. 48 flat bed machine A machine wi

45、th a flat working surface. 49 folding Forming a fold in the material just before the material is fed under the needle to be sewn. 50 foot driven machine A machine driven by means of a treadle.BS6131:1982 4 BSI 12-1999 No. Term Definition 51 forced feed lubrication A system of lubrication that requir

46、es only the maintenance of the correct oil level in one control reservoir from which all necessary bearing surfaces are lubricated by means of some type of mechanical pump. 52 free arm machine A machine where the working surface consists only of an arm. NOTESee Figure 19. 53 gathering The drawing to

47、gether, and holding in place, of a succession of small folds of material by stitching. 54 gravity feed lubrication Lubrication in which the lubricant is delivered by gravity from a reservoir located at some high point in the sewing machine and is metered to the bearing surfaces. 55 guiding Assuring

48、regularity and direction of sewing, generally to the edge of the material. 56 gussetting Insertion of an angular piece of material into a garment to strengthen or enlarge some part of the garment. 57 hand driven machine A machine driven by means of a hand wheel or crank. 58 hand wheel A wheel locate

49、d at the end of the machine arm and controlling the movement of the take-up lever and needle bar. NOTESee Figure 20. 59 hand wheel stop motion screw A knob located on the hand wheel that engages or disengages the sewing mechanism. It prevents the sewing mechanisms from operating when winding a bobbin. NOTESee Figure 20. 60 heel That part of the presser foot furthest away from the oncoming material to be sewn. NOTESee Figure 21. 61 hem A smooth edge produced by turning over the raw edge a