BS 1903-1981 Glossary of terms used by the clothing industry《服装工业用术语词汇》.pdf
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1、BRITISH STANDARD BS 1903:1981 Glossary of Terms used by the clothing industry UDC 001.4:687BS1903:1981 This British Standard, having been prepared under the direction of the Clothing Standards Committee, was published under the authority of the Executive Board and comes into effect on 30 October 198
2、1 BSI 10-1999 First published October 1952 First revision October 1981 The following BSI references relate to the work on this standard: Committee reference CLT/5 Draft for comment 80/35477 DC ISBN 0 580 12319 7 Cooperating organizations The Clothing Standards Committee, under whose direction this B
3、ritishStandard was prepared, consists of representatives from the following: British Apparel Manufacturers Association Ltd* British Footwear Manufacturers Federation British Man-made Fibres Federation* British Multiple Retailers Association* British Railways Board British Textile Employers Associati
4、on Clothing and Footwear Institute* Clothing Manufacturers Federation of Great Britain Consumer Standards Advisory Committee of BSI* Consumers Association Department of Industry, Chemicals and Textiles Drapers Chamber of Trade Independent Footwear Retailers Association Industrial Safety (Protective
5、Equipment) Manufacturers Association Institute of Purchasing and Supply Instock Footwear Suppliers Association Knitting Industries Federation Ltd* Mail Order Traders Association of Great Britain* Manchester Chamber of Commerce Testing House and Laboratories* Ministry of Defence* Multiple Shoe Retail
6、ers Association National Childrens Wear Association Shoe and Allied Trades Research Association Textile and Clothing Contractors Association Textile Research Council* The organizations marked with an asterisk in the above list, together with the following, were directly represented on the Technical
7、Committee entrusted with the preparation of this British Standard: British Interlining Manufacturers Association British Leather Manufacturers Research Association International Wool Secretariat Textile Institute Amendments issued since publication Amd. No. Date of issue CommentsBS1903:1981 BSI 10-1
8、999 i Contents Page Cooperating organizations Inside front cover Foreword ii 0.1 Scope 1 0.2 References 1 Section 1. General terms 1 Section 2. Materials 3 Section 3. Garments and garment parts 4 Section 4. Making up operations 7 Section 5. Stitches 10 Section 6. Seams and pleats 11 Section 7. Sewin
9、g machine parts 12 Section 8. Sewing machine feed mechanisms 13 Section 9. Equipment other than sewing machines 14 Alphabetical index 16 Publications referred to Inside back coverBS1903:1981 ii BSI 10-1999 Foreword This glossary has been prepared under the direction of the Clothing Standards Committ
10、ee. The first edition of this standard, published in 1952, and which is now withdrawn, contained a glossary of technical terms used in the then current British Standards for womens and childrens clothing. When the present revision was undertaken it was agreed that a more comprehensive glossary was n
11、eeded. Terms for inclusion were extracted and considered from a number of sources. The most notable source was the Clothing and Footwear Institutes publication “Clothing terms and definitions” which was used with the full cooperation of the Institute. Other sources were recently published British St
12、andard specifications for clothing, discussions within BSI committees and discussions within the International Organization for Standardization, this last being the prime source for much of the sewing machine terminology. All definitions have been developed through the usual consultative procedures
13、of BSI. The glossary has been divided into nine sections and within each section the terms are, as far as possible, in alphabetical order. An index of all terms has been provided for ease of reference. NOTETerms and their synonyms are printed in bold type. Where reference to another term, also defin
14、ed in the glossary, is necessary in the text that term is italicized and its number quoted. However, because of the repetition of many of the defined terms they have not been italicized every time they occur. A British Standard does not purport to include all the necessary provisions of a contract.
15、Users of British Standards are responsible for their correct application. Compliance with a British Standard does not of itself confer immunity from legal obligations. Summary of pages This document comprises a front cover, an inside front cover, pages i and ii, pages1 to 18, an inside back cover an
16、d a back cover. This standard has been updated (see copyright date) and may have had amendments incorporated. This will be indicated in the amendment table on the inside front cover.BS1903:1981 BSI 10-1999 1 0.1 Scope This British Standard glossary lists terms and definitions as used by the clothing
17、 industry. NOTEFurther details of fabric descriptions may be found in BS3257, of stitches and seams in BS3870 and of sewing machine parts in BS6131 1) . 0.2 References The titles of the publications referred to in this standard are listed on the inside back cover. Section 1. General terms 1) In cour
18、se of preparation. No. Term Definition 101 allowance body tolerance The extra dimensions allowed on garment measurements over body measurement (see also seam allowance, 132). 102 appliqu A cutout design or shape attached to the face of a material for ornamentation, frequently of a different type and
19、/or shade of material. 103 back rise The distance on a garment from the crotch to the centre back of the waistline. 104 balance The relation of one section of a garment to another, in harmony with the natural attitude of the figure, especially that of back and front lengths. 105 balance marks Notche
20、s or threads in garment parts, which help to preserve the balance of the garment by serving as guides during assembly. They are generally put at side seams, in the scye, shoulder seams, hind arm and forearm seams and elsewhere as necessary. 106 bespoke Clothes made to the order of an individual. 107
21、 bias Direction at an angle to warp and weft. True bias is at an angle of 45 to both warp and weft. Other usage includes bias cutting and cutting on the bias which is also known as cutting on the cross. 108 bight The distance between the stitching line and the adjacent edge of the material (see also
22、 seam allowance, 132). 109 bluff edges bluffed edges Edges finished without outside stitching (see also bluffing, 406). 110 break The point where the lapel starts to roll over on a coat, usually at the top buttonhole. 111 button stand buttonhole stand The distance from the finished edge of the garme
23、nt to the centre of the button. 112 clem A very small dart which is sewn and not cut. 113 dart A wedge or diamond shape removed from the surface of a garment part by stitching or by cutting and stitching to contribute to the shape of the garment. 114 double breasted (D.B.) A coat or other garment wi
24、th wrap over fronts having buttons and buttonholes on each forepart. 115 draft a) A constructed plan of a garment. b) The application of body or garment measurements to a flat plane. 116 drape The way the material in a garment hangs when worn. 117 dress a) Clothing, particularly outerwear. b) A type
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