NAVY MIL-T-87062 B-1987 TROUSERS UTILITY MEN-S DENIM《男式粗斜纹棉布效用裤》.pdf

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1、MIL-T-87062B 4 m 7979906 0430667 O m MIL-T-87062B(NU) 22 September 1987 SUPERSEDING MIL-T-87062A 11 June 1984 MILITARY SPEC IF ICATION TROUSERS, UTILITY, MENS, DENIM 1 This specification is approved for use by the Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, Department of the Navy, and is available.

2、for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for utility trousers made from a denim material. 1.2 Classification. The trousers shall be in the following types, sizes, and lengths (see 6.2). 1.2.1 Types. Type i -

3、Cotton/Polyester Type II - Cotton, Flame Resistant 1.2.2 Sizes. 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48, and 50. 1.2.3 Lengths . Regular and X-Long . 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 Government documents. * 2.1.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following speci

4、fications standards, and handbooks form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto, cited

5、in the solicitation. Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Officer in Charge, Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, 21 Strathmore Road, Natick, MA 01760-2490 by using the self-a

6、ddressed Standardization Document Improvement Proposal, (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. msc N/A FSC 8405 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT. Approved for public release; distribution is un1 imi ted. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without l

7、icense from IHS-,-,-SPEC IF ICATIONS FEDERAL V-B-8 7 1 V -F - 1 O 6 V-T-280 NN-P-71 DDD -L- 20 MILITARY MIL-P-15011 MIL-B-17 7 5 7 MIL-C-24915 MIL-T-43548 MIL-C -8 7 O 64 STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-75 1 MILITARY MIL-STD-105 MIL-STD-129 MIL-STD-147 MIL-STD-1488 - Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Stapl

8、e, (Plastic) - Fasteners, Slide, Interlocking - Thread, Cotton Gimp, Buttonhole - Pallets, Material Handling, Wood, Stringer - Label; For Clothing, Equipage and Tentage, (General Construction, 2 Way and 4 Way (Partial) Use) - Pallet, Material Handling, Wood Post Construction, - Box, Shipping, Fiberb

9、oard (Modular Sizes) - Cloth, Denim, Cotton (Flame Retardant Treated) - Thread, Polyester Core: Cotton, Rayon or Polyester - Cloth, Denim, Cotton and Polyester 4-Way Entry Covered - Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by - Marking for Shipment and Storage

10、- Pal 1 et i zed Unit Loads - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Trousers At t ri but es (Copies of specifications, standards, drawings, and publications required by contractors in connection with specific procurement functions should be obtained from the procuring activity or as directed by the c

11、ontracting officer). * 2.1.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues shall be those in effect on the date of t

12、he solicitation. LAWS AND REGULATIONS US POSTAL SERVICE MANUAL (Copies of the manual may be obtained from the Superintendent of Documents, US Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402). 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-* 2.2 O

13、ther publications. The following document(s) form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DOD adopted shall be those listed in the issue of the DODISS specified in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the

14、 issues of documents not listed in the DODISS shall be the issue of the nongovernment documents which is current on the date of the solicitation. NATIONAL MOTOR FREIGHT TRAFFIC ASSOCIATION, INC., AGENT National Motor Freight Classification (Applications for copies should be addressed to the American

15、 Trucking Association, ATTN: Traffic Department, 1616 P Street, N.W., Washington, DC 20036). UNIFORM CLASSIFICATION COMMITTEE, AGENT Uniform Freight Classification (Applications for copies should be addressed to the Uniform Classification Committee, Room 1106, 222 South Riverside Plaza, Chicago, Ill

16、inois 60606). THE COLOR ASSOCIATION OF THE UNITED STATES Standard Shades for Buttons - 1966 Standard Shades for Threads - 1968 (Applications for copies shal be addressed to the Color Association of the United States, 343 Lexington Ave., New York, N.Y. 10016). * 2.3. Order of precedence. In the event

17、 of a conflict between the text of this specification and the references cited herein, the text of this specification shall take precedence. Nothing in this specification, however, shall supersede applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1 Guid

18、e sample. Samples, when furnished, are solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variations from this specification may appear in the sample in which case this specification shall govern. 3.2 First article. When specified, the contractor shall furnish sample unit(s) for first

19、article inspection and approval (see 4.3 and6.2). 3.3 Material . 3.3.1 Basic material. 3.3.1.1 Type I. The basic material for the Type I trousers shall be a cotton/polyester blended denim, conforming to MIL-C-87064. The material shall be dyed shade Blue 3371. 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reprod

20、uction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-3.3.1.2 Type II. The basic material for the Type II trousers shall be a flame resistant treated cotton denim, conforming to MIL-C-24915. The material shall be dyed shade Blue 3371. .3.3.2 Thread. * 3*3.2.1 Thread, polyester, core. The threa

21、d for all trousers shall be a polyester core thread, two or three ply, ticket No. 50 or 70 of MIL-T-43548, except that the polyester covering shall not be used. The thread shall be dyed shade Blue AT, Cable No. 66060, in accordance with the Standard Shades For Threads . 3.3.2.2 Colorfastness. The dy

22、ed thread of 3.3.2.1 shall show fastness to light and laundering equal to or better than the standard sample when tested as specified in MIL-T-43548. When no standard sample is available, the dyed thread in 3.3.2.1 shall show a minimum of “good“ fastness to light and laundering when tested as specif

23、ied in MIL-T-43548. 3.3.3 Gimp. The gimp for reinforcing the buttonholes shall be cotton, conforming to Type I or II, Size No. 8 of V-T-280. The gimp shall be dyed Blue AT, Cable No. 66060, in accordance with the Standard Shades For Threads. 3.3.3.1 Colorfastness. The dyed gimp shall show fastness t

24、o laundering equal to or better than the standard sample when tested as specified in V-T-280. When no standard sample is available, the dyed gimp shall show a minimum of “good“ fastness to laundering when tested as specified in V-T-280. * 3.3.4 Slide fastener. The slide fastener for closing the fly

25、shall conform to Type I, Style I, cam lock or semi automatic pin lock, size LMS, short tab pull of V-F-106. AL1 metal components of the slide fastener shall be fabricated of brass except for the semi automatic pin lock cover and spring, which shall be stainless steel. All components shall be from th

26、e same supplier. The slide fastener shall be furnished with a staple bottom stop (see 4.4.1). 3.3.4.1 Tape for slide fastener. 3.3.4.1.1 Type I trousers. The tape for the Type I trouser slide fastener shall be cotton or synthetic or a combination. The tape shall approximate the shade of the basic ma

27、terial and shall show good fastness to laundering as specified in V-F-106. 3.3.4.1.2 Type II trousers. The tape for the Type II trouser slide fastener shall be high temperature resistant aramid. The color of the tape shall be black, and shall meet commercially acceptable colorfastness requirements f

28、or aramid tapes . 3.3.5 Buttons, plastic. The buttons for the waistband and left hip pocket closure shall conform to Type II, Class D, Style 4, 22-line of V-B-871. The color shall be Black BT, Cable No. 62001, in accordance with the Standard Shades For Buttons. 3.3.6 Labels. 4 Provided by IHSNot for

29、 ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-* 3.3.6.1 Combination label. Each pair of trousers shall have a combination identification, personal and instruction label conforming to Type VI, Classes 10 and 15 of DDD-L-LO. The printing shall show fastness to laundering

30、and shall bear the following inscription and format: e I Type I trouser label. NAME : SERVICE NO: FIBER CONTENT: 65% Cotton/35% Polyester CONTRACT NO: DLA 100-00-0-0000 (Example) NAME OF CONTRACTOR: TROUSERS, UTILITY, MENS DENIM - TYPE I LAUNDERING INSTRUCTIONS FILL WASHER AND DRYER TO 2/3 CAPACITY

31、GARMENTS MUST ALWAYS BE TURNED INSIDE OUT Machine Wash, Hot Water, NO STARCH, NO BLEACH Tumble Dry, Medium Heat Remove Promptly or Follow NAVEDTRA 414-01-45-81, Formula II FILL WASHER AND DRYER GARMENTS MUST ALWAYS BE The printed label should use uppercase -. as indicated above. TO 2/3 CAPACITY TURN

32、ED INSIDE OUT letters, bold print and underlining Type II trouser label. NAME : SERVICE NO: TROUSERS, UTILITY, MENS, DENIM - TYPE II FIBER CONTENT: 100% Cotton (Flame retardant treated) CONTRACT NO. DLA-100-00-0-0000 (Example) NAME OF CONTRACTOR: LAUNDERING INSTRUCTIONS FILL WASHER AND DRYER TO 2/3

33、CAPACITY GARMENTS MUST ALWAYS BE TURNED INSIDE OUT Machine Wash, Hot Water, NO STARCH, NO BLEACH Tumble Dry, Medium Heat Remove Prompt 1 y or Follow NAVEDTRA 414-01-45-81, Formula II FILL WASHER ANQ DRYER TO 2/3 CAPACITY GARMENTS MUST ALWAYS BE TURNED INSIDE OUT 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo rep

34、roduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- - - _-_ MIL-T-87062B 4 7977706 0410674 4 - The printed label should use uppercase letters, bold print and underlining as indicated above. NOTE: The lengths (Regular and X-Long) may be abbreviated as R or XL * 3.3.6.2 Size label. The siz

35、e, label for the trousers shall conform to Type IV or VI, Class 2 of DDD-L-20 and shall bear the following inscription: 1 Size 38R (Example) STOCK NO: 8405-00-000-0000 (Example) * 3.3.6.3 Removable size ticket. Each pair of trousers shall have a commercial type size ticket attached to the outside of

36、 the waistband above the left back pocket. The ticket shall be approximately 3 inches long and 1 inch high, made of a suitable plain white cardboard. The corners of the ticket may be double perforated for ease in tacking. The size (38R - Example) shall be printed or stamped on the upper left hand co

37、rner in black or blue ink. The lettering for the size shall be 1/4 inch in height. Abbreviations for lengths shall be allowed in accordance with 3.3.6.1. * 3.4 Design. The trousers shall be of double needle construction, fabricated from denim fabric. The Type I trousers shall be made of a cotton/pol

38、yester denim fabric and the Type II trousers shall be made of a cotton flame retardant treated denim fabric. The trousers shall feature two front patch pockets, two back patch pockets, two back waist darts, button/buttonhole waistband, slide fastener fly closure, and separate one-piece waistband wit

39、h belt loops. .The. leg style shall be bell bottom and unhemmed (see Figure 1). 3.4.1 Figure. The figure is furnished for information purposes only. When inconsistencies exist between the written specification and the figure, the written specification shall govern. 3.5 Patterns. Standard patterns fo

40、r both types of trousers will be furnished by the Government to the contractor for use in cutting the working patterns (see 6.3). The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns. Neither the Government patterns nor the working patterns shall be altered in any way. The patterns all

41、ow 1/2 inch seam allowance for all seams, except as otherwise indicated in Table I. 3.5.1 Pattern parts. The component parts of both types of trousers shall be cut from material as specified and in accordance with the pattern parts required for the manufacturing process as follows: 6 Provided by IHS

42、Not for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-T-870bZB 84 M 779770h 0410675 h 9 Mat er i al Nomenclature of pattern parts Cut parts Basic material Temp1 at e Backs Fronts Waist band Y Fly lining (right) Front patch pockets Back patch pockets Pockets Fronts Ba

43、ck NOTE: - i/ - 2/ Pattern is not furnished for belt loops (see operation 6). Waistband may be banded (see operation 12). Slide fastener location is for left fly only. 3.6 Construct ion. * 3.6.1 Stitches, seams, and stitching. Stitch, seam, and stitching types specified in Table I shall conform to F

44、ED-STD-751. Whenever two or more methods for seam or stitch types are given for the same operation any one may be used. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, runoffs, twists, pleats, puckers or open seams result. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread ten

45、sion shall be maintained so that there is no tight or loose stitching. Where stitch type 401 is used, the looper (underthread) shall be on the inside of the trousers. Ends of all seams produced by stitch type 401 shall be caught in other seams or stitchings. The width of the safety stitch shall be 3

46、/8 inch and the guides and knives on the safety stitch machine shall be set to trim only the ravelled ends of the fabric. Unless otherwise specified, topstitching and edgestitching shall be 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the edge and all double needle stitching shall be 1/4 inch gauge with the row of stitchi

47、ng next to the folded edge not more than 1/16 inch from the edge. The use of a trimming knife in the overedging of the right fly in operations 8f and 8g is prohibited. 3.6.2 Stitches per inch. The minimum and maximum number of stitches per inch shall be as specified in Table I. * 3.6.3 Thread breaks

48、 and ends of seams. Ends of all seams and stitchings when not caught in other seams or stitchings shall be backtacked not less than 1/4 inch. The ends of a continuous line of stitching shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of

49、break not less than 1/2-inch. Skipped stitches or thread breaks (401 stitch type) may be repaired by using 301 stitch type. The ends of type 401 stitching not caught in other seams or stitching shall have a 1/2 to 3/4 inch chain extending from it. 3.7 Manufacturing operations requirements. The trousers shall be manufactured in accordance with operation requirements specified in Table I. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of op