NAVY MIL-S-87061 C-1988 SHIRTS UTILITY WOMEN-S CHAMBRAY《女式格纹效用衫》.pdf

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1、MILITARY SPECIFICATION SHIRTS , UTILITY , WMEN S CHAMBRAY MIL-S-87061C(NU) _._._ - 19 February 1988 SUPERSEDING MIL-S-87061B(NU). 10 September 1984 This specification is approved for use by the Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, Department of the Navy, and is available for use by all Depar

2、tments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for chambray work shirts. 1.2 Classification. The shirt shall be in the following types and sizes (see 6.2). . . 1.2.1 Types. Type I Type II - Long Sleeve, Polyester/Cotton . Type III - L

3、ong Sleeve, Cotton, Flame Resistant - Short Sleeve, Polyester/Cotton 1.2.2 Sizes. 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20 and 22 Schedule of sleeve lengths (Type II and III shirts). 1.2.3 The epe II and III shirts shall be furnished in sleeve lengths of 29, 32 and 34. Beneficial comments (recommendations, addi

4、tions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Officer in Charge, Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, 21 Stratbore Road, Natick, MA 01760-2490 by using the self-addressed Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form

5、1426) appearing _ at the end of this document or bv letter. AMSC N/A FSC 8410 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release, distribution is unlimited. d 1 THIS DOCUMENT CONTAINS aq PAGES. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S

6、-87061C(NU) 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 Government documents. * 2.1.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be

7、those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation. SPEC IF ICATIONS FEDERAL V-B-87 1 NN-P-7 1 DDD-L-20 MILITARY MIL-P-15011 MIL-B-17757 MIL-C-24916 MIL-T-43548 MIL-C-87065 STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-

8、751 MILITARY MIL-STD-105 MIL-STD-129 MIL-STD-147 MIL-STD-1492 i - Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple - Pallets, Material Handling, Wood, Stringer - Label; for Clothing, Equipage and Tentage (General Plastic) I Construction, 2 Way and 4 Way (Partial) Use) - Pallet, Material Handling, Wood Post C

9、onstruction, - Box, Shipping Fi berboard (Modular Sizes) - Cloth, Chambray, Cotton (Flame Retardant Treated) - Thread, Polyester, Core: Cotton-, Rayon-, or - Cloth, Chambray, Polyester and Cotton 4-Way Entry Polyester-Covered - Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Ins

10、pection by - Marking for Shipment and Storage - Palletized Unit Loads - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Shirts At tributes ( Copies of specifications, standards, drawings, and publications required by contractors in connection with specific procurement functions should be obtained from the proc

11、uring activity or as directed by the contracting officer). * 2.1.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-

12、of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues shall be those in effect on the date of the solicitation. LAWS AND REGULATIONS U.S. POSTAL SERVICE MANUAL (Copies of the manual may be obtained from the Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing

13、Office, Washington, D.C. 20402-0001.) 2.2 Other publications. The following document(s) form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which .are DOD adopted shall be those listed in the issue of the DODISS specified in the s

14、olicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DODISS shall be the issue of the nongovernment documents which is current on the date of the sol i ci t ati on. NATIONAL MOTOR FREIGHT TRAFFIC ASSOCIATION, INC., AGENT National Motor Freight Classification (Applicatio

15、ns for copies should be addressed to the American Trucking Association, ATTN: Traffic Department, 1616 P Street, N.W., Washington, DC 20036-1404 ) UNIFORM CLASSIFICATION COMMITTEE, AGENT Uniform Freight Classification (Applications for copies should be addressed to the Uniform Classification Committ

16、ee, Room 1106, 222 South Riverside Plaza, Chicago, Illinois 60606-5808.) THE COLOR ASSOCIATION OF THE UNITED STATES Standard Shades for Buttons Standard Shades for Threads (Applications for copies of color cards should be addressed to The Color Association of the U.S., 343 Lexington Ave., New York,

17、NY 10016). * 2.3 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this specification and the references cited herein, the text of this specification shall take precedence. Nothing in this specification, however, shall supersede applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exe

18、mption has been obtained. 3 c REQUIREMENTS 3.1 Guide sample. Samples, when furnished, are solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variations from this specification may appear in the sample in which case this specification shall govern. 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo repr

19、oduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-8706 lC( NU) 3.2 First article. When specified, the contractor shall furnish sample unit(s) for first article inspection and approval (see 4.3 and 6.2). 3.3 Material . 3.31 Basic material. 3.3.1.1 Type I and II. The basic material f

20、or the Type I and Type II shirt shall be a 50%/polyester/50%/cotton chambray material conforming to MIL-C-87065. The color-shall be shade Blue 3372. 3.3.1.2 Type III. The basic material for the Type III shirt shall be a flame retardant treated cotton chambray conforming to MIL-C-24916. The color sha

21、ll be shade Blue 3372. 3.3.2 Thread. * 3.3.2.1 Thread, polyester, core. The thread for all the shirts shall be a polyester core thread, shade Blue, C.A. 66091, in accordance with the Standard Shades for Threads, conforming to MIL-T-43548, except that the polyester covering shall not be used. Two or

22、3 ply thread may be used for all ticket numbers. * 3.3.2.2 Thread size. The following thread sizes shall be used with the appropriate stitch type: St itch type 30 1 40 1 503, 504, 602 515, 516, 519 Button sewing Bartack . Thread size Needle Bobbin/looper 50 50 50 70 70 70 50 70 (chain) 70 70 (overed

23、gin 50 50 50 - * 3.3.2.3 Colorfastness. The dyed thread of 3.3.2.1 shall show colorfastness to light and laundering equal to or better than the standard .sample when tested as specified in MIL-T-43548. As a limit of acceptability or when no standard sample is available, the dyed thread of 3.3.2.1 sh

24、all show a minimum of “good“ colorfastness to light and laundering when tested as specified in MIL-T-43548. 3.3.3 Buttons, The buttons shall be 20-line, conforming to Type II, Class D, Style 29 of V-B-871. The color of the button shall be Blue, C.A. 62037 in accordance with the Standard Shades for B

25、uttons. 3.3.4 Label. * 3.3.4.1 Combination label. Each shirt shall have a combination identification, instruction and personal label conforming to Type III, IV, or Type VI, Classes 10 and 15 of DDD-L-20. The marking shall show colorfastness to laundering. The inscription and format shall be as follo

26、ws: 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-. MIL-S-8706 lC(NU) * TvDe I and II Shirt Label NAME : SERVICE NO: SHIRTS, UTILITY, WOMEN S CHAMBRAY - TYPE II (Example) FIBER CONTENT: 50% Cotton/50% Polyester CONTRACT NO. DLA-100-00-0-0000 (Exa

27、mple) NAME OF CONTRACTOR: NAME OF MANUFACTURER: (If other than contractor) LAUNDERING INSTRUCTIONS Machine Wash, Hot Water, No Bleach Tumble Dry, Medium Heat Remove Promptly or Follow NAVEDTRA Manual 414-01-45-81, Formula -II * TvDe III Shirt Label NAME : SERVICE NO: SHIRTS, UTILITY, WOMENS CHAMBRAY

28、 - TYPE III FIBER CONTENT: 100% Cotton (Flame retardant treated) CONTRACT NO. DLA-100-00-0-0000 (Example) NAME OF CONTRACTOR: NAME OF MANUFACTURER: (If other than contractor) LAUNDERING INSTRUCTIONS Machine Wash, Hot Water NO STARCH, NO BLEACH Tumble Dry, Medium Heat Remove Prompt 1 y or Follow NAVE

29、DTRA Manual 414-01-45-81, Formula II The printed label should use uppercase letters, bold print and underlining as indicated above. 3.3.4.2 Size label. Each shirt shall have a size label conforming to Type III, IV or VI, Class 2 of DDD-L-20. The inscription shall be as follows: . Type I Shirt 8 - (E

30、xample) STOCK NO. 8410-00-000-0000 (Example) Type II or Type IIIShirts 8 - 29 SL (Example) STOCK NO. 8410-00-000-0000 (Example) The abbreviation for sleeve length shall be SL. 3.4 Design. The Type II and III long sleeve shirts shall be made with a .5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or n

31、etworking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-convertible collar and have a seven button front, shirt tails and two outside breast patch pockets with buttoned down flaps. The collar, pocket flaps and cuff shall be interlined with basic material. The squared-off sleeve cuffs shall have two buttons

32、 on each cuff and the sleeve openings shall have a continuous binding (see Figure 2). The Type I shirt shall be similar in design and construction features except that it shall have short sleeves (see Figure 1). 3.4.1 Figures. Figures are furnished for information purposes only. To the extent of any

33、 inconsistencies between the specification and the figures, the Specification shall govern. * 3.5 Patterns. Standard patterns to be used to cut working patterns will be furnished by the Government (see 6.3). The working piatterns shall be identical to the Government patterns. Neither the Government

34、patterns nor the working patterns shall be altered in any way, except that additional notches for use during construction are allowed on the working patterns. The patterns provide an allowance of 3/8 inch for safety stitched seams and 5/16 inch for collar assembly and joining to neck. Unless otherwi

35、se indicated in Table I, seams shall be in accordance with these seam allowances. * 3.5.1 Pattern Darts. The component Darts shall be cut from the material as specified and in accordance with ;he foliowing list of pattern parts: t Mat er i al Pattern Parts Cut Parts Basic material Back 1 Templates F

36、ront (left and right) S1 eeves Type I (short) Type II and III (long) Collar (top and under) CuffC(Type II and III) Sleeve binding (Type II and III) Pocket (patch) Pocket (patch) alternate Pocket flap Cuff interlining Pocket f 1 ap inter 1 i ni ng Col 1 ar int er1 ining Template finished pocket Templ

37、ate finished flap Template buttonhole marker 2 2 2 2 4 i/ 2 21 - 2 2 4 2 2 1 - - - 1/ When one piece cuff is utilized, delete seam allowance to meet requirements. - 21 See operation 9e when sleeve binding pattern is not used and sleeve binding is rolled. 3.6 Construction. 3.6.1 Stitches, seams and s

38、titchings. Stitch, seam and stitching types, as 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-specified in Table I shall conform to the requirements of PED-STD-751. Whenever two or more methods for seams or stitchings are given for the same opera

39、tion, any one of them may be used. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, runoffs, twists, pleats, puckers, or open seams result: Al1 seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there is no tight or loose stitching. Where stitch

40、type 401 is used, the looper (underthread) shall be on the inside of the shirt. Ends of all seams produced by stitch type 401 shall be caught in other seams or stitchings. The width of the safety stitch shall be 3/8 inch and the guides and knives on the safety stitch machine shall be set to trim onl

41、y the ravelled ends of the fabric. 3.6.2 Stitches per inch. The minimum and maximum number of stitches per inch shall be as specified in Table I. * 3.6.3 Thread breaks and ends of seams. Ends of all seams and stitchings when not caught in other seams or stitchings shall be backtacked not less than 3

42、/8 inch. The ends of a continuous line of stitching shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of break not less than 1/2 inch. The ends of type 401 stitching not caught in other stitching or seams shall have a 1/2 to 3/4 inch chai

43、n extending from it. Skipped stitches or thread breaks may be repaired by using 301 stitch type. The ends of type 401 stitching not caught in other stitching or seams shall have a 1/2 to 3/4 inch chain extending from it. When ends of overedge stitching are not caught in other seams or stitching, the

44、 ends shall be tacked. 3.6.4 Buttonholes. The buttonholes shall be straight style with both ends securely barred. The finished cut length shall be 5/8 (+ 1/16) inch. 3.7 Manufacturing operations requirements. The shirts shall be manufactured in accordance with operation requirements as specified in

45、Table I. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations provided the finished shirts are identical to that produced by following the sequence listed in Table I. 3.7.1 All pressing operations referenced in Table I shall be performed by using a heated pressing iron or steam

46、pressing machine. 3.7.2 Abbreviations in table of operations. The abbreviations used in Table I are as follows: Stch - in Nd 1 - Bob - LPr Mchne - Brtck - Comrcl - smlr - Btnhl - incl - dbl - - Stitch inch Needle Bobbin Looper Machi ne Bartack Commer c i al similar Buttonhole i nc 1 ud i ng double 7

47、 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-NO _- RIL-S-70bLC 4 m 777770b OqLOb52 5 I- MIL-S-8706 l C( NU) TABLE I - CONSTRUCTION OF SHIRTS Operati on Thread St ch Se am/ Stch Ndl Bob Type Stch type in LP r 1. * * 2. 3. Cutting a. All components

48、 of the basic cloth shall be cut in strict accordance with patterns furnished, which show size, shape, placement of pockets and flaps, directional lines for cutting and notches for proper assembly of all parts. The fronts may be cut to include the selvage with the grown-on facing. Note the direction

49、al litie .for cutting must be maintained, resulting in a straight facing. b. All component parts shall be cut from one piece of material except for undercollar, underply of pocket flaps, underply of cuffs, all interlinings and sleeve bindings which may be cut from ends. When parts are cut from ends, they must approximate the shade of the main assembly. C. The sleeve binding may be cut in strips and placed on rolls, however, there