NAVY MIL-S-87005 D-1992 SKIRT WOMAN-S DRESS (CG)《女式制服衬衫(海岸巡逻队队员)》.pdf

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1、IINCH-POUNDSI 13 May 1992 SUPERSEDING MIL-S-87005C(CG) 3 August 1988 MILITARY SPECIFICATION SKIRT, WOMANS, DRESS (CG) ,e This specification is approved for use by the United States Coast Guard, Department of Transportation, and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department o

2、f Defense. ii 1. SCOPE 1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for a polyester and wool womans skirt. 1.2 Classification. The skirts shall be of one type and in the following sizes and lengths: 1.2.1 Sizes and lengths. - Sizes Lengths Short, regular and long 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13,

3、 14, 15, 16, 18, 20 and 22 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 Government documents Beneficial comments (recommendation, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Officer in Charge, Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, P. O. B

4、ox 59, Natick, MA 01760-2490 by using the self-addressed Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. AMSC N/A FSC 8410 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release, distribution is unlimited. D Provided by IHSNot for Resal

5、eNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-87005D 84 W 9999906 0528456 3 W MIL-S-87005D (CG) 2.1.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the eitent specified herein Unless othe

6、rwise specified, the issue of these documents shall be those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL A-A-50 186 A-A-50198 A-A-50199 A-A-52094 V-B-871 V-F-106 NN

7、-P-71 DDD-L-20 MILITARY MIL-C-823 MIL-P-15011 MIL-B-17757 MIL-C-43718 MIL-C-43920 STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-751 MILITARY MIL-STD-105 MIL-STD-129 MIL-STD-147 - Cloth, Buckram, Woven and Nonwoven - Thread, Gimp, Cotton Buttonhole a - Thread, Polyester Core: Cotton- or Polyester- - Thread, Cotton t - B

8、utton, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple - Fastener, Slide, Interlocking - Pallet, Material Handling, Wood, Stringer - Label, for Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage Covered (Plastic) Construction, 2 Way and 4 Way (Partial) (General Use) - Cloth, Serge, Wool, Wool and Nylon, Polyester and - Pallet, Materi

9、al Handling, Wood, Post Construction, - Boxes, Shipping, Fiberboard (Modular Sizes) - Cloth, Polyester; Polyester and Cotton; Polyester - Cloth, Interlining, Cotton or Synthetic, and Nylon Wool 4 Way Entry and Rayon for Pockets - Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings - Sampling Procedures and Tables for I

10、nspection - Marking for Shipment and Storage - Palletized Unit Loads by Attributes MIL-STD-2073-1 - DOD Materials Procedures for; Development and MIL-STD-2073-2 - Packaging Requirment Codes Application of Packaging Requirements 2 O Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted

11、 without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-87005D 84 9999906 0528457 5 l MIL-S-87005D (CG) (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of federal and military specification, standards, and handbooks are available from the Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 4D, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19111-50

12、94.) 2.1.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation. U.S. POSTAL MANUAL (Copies

13、of the manual may be obtained from the Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, D.C. 20402-0001.) 2.2 Non-Government publications. The following document(s) form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issue of doc

14、uments which are DoD adopted shall be those listed in the issue of the DODISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DODISS are the issue of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). NATIONAL MOTOR FREIGHT TRAFFIC ASSOCIATION, INC.,

15、AGENT National Motor Freight Classification (Applications for copies should be addressed to the American Trucking Association, ATTN: Traffic Department, 1616 P Street, N.W., Washington, DC 20036-1404). UNIFORM CLASSIFICATION COMMITTEE, AGENT Uniform Freight Classification (Application for copies sho

16、uld be addressed to the Uniform Classification Committee, Room 1106, 222 South Riverside Plaza, Chicago, Illinois 60606-5808). (Non-Government standards and other publications are normally available from the organizations that prepare or distribute the documents. These documents also may be availabl

17、e in or through libraries or other informational services.) 2.3 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations

18、 unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1 Guide sample. Samples, when furnished, are solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variations from this specification may appear in the sample in which case this specification shall govern. 3 Provided by IHS

19、Not for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-I MIL-S-87005D (CG) 3.2 First article. When specified, the contractor shall furnish sample unit(s) for first article inspection and approval (see 4.3 and 6.2). 3.3 Material. 3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material fo

20、r the skirt shall be 11.3 oz. polyester and wool serge cloth conforming to type III, class 3 of MIL-C-823. The shade shall match Blue 3362. The piece number for the standard sample is 80353. 3.3.2 Pocketing and lining. The material for the pockets and waistband lining shall be a twill cloth conformi

21、ng to class 1 of MIL-C-43718. The color shall be Black 423. 3.3.3 Waistband. The waistband shall be a commerical band using the material stated in 3.3.2 thru 3.3.6. 3.3.4 Buckram. The material for interlining the waistband shall be bleached oreached cotton buckram conforming to type II or type V of

22、A-A-50186. 3.3.5 Tape, waistband, non-slip. The woven non-slip tape for the waistband lining assembly shall be constructed of either polyester or polyester/nylon, natural or white in color, with two rows of chloroprene or nitrile rubber threads, woven or stitched to the tape. The width of the comple

23、ted tape shall be 7/8 inch and shall not shrink more than 2% in the length direction when subjected to the manufacturers standard procedures for determining dimensional stability to dry-cleaning as appropriate for the end item. 3.3.6 Waistband stabilizer. The material for the waistband stabilizer sh

24、all be interlining cloth conforming to type I of MIL-C-43920. * 3.3.7 Thread. The thread used for seaming and stitching the skirt shall be a polyester core thread conforming to type I of A-A-50199. The color of the thread shall be Black AA, Cable No. 66043 and in the following sizes: Operat ion Tick

25、et No. Ply Seaming, stitching and tacking 50, 70 2 or 3 Overedging 70 2 or 3 Buttons 50 2 or 3 3.3.7.1 Thread, cotton. As an alternate to the polyester-core thread, a cotton thread conforming to A-A-52094, type I; may be used. The color shall be the same as specified in 3.3.7 and in the following ty

26、pes and sizes: Operat ion Type Ticket No. Ply Seaming and stitching IA3 30,. 50 3 Tacking and buttonhole IC2 O 3 Overedging IA3 70 2 Buttons IB3 30 .3 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-87005D (CG) * 3.3.7,2 Colorfastness. The dy

27、ed thread shall show colorfastness to wet-dry cleaning and light equal to or better than the standard sample when tested as specified in V-T-276 or A-A-50199. As a limit of acceptability, or when no standard sample is available, the thread shall show a minimum of good“ colorfastness to wet-dry clean

28、ing and light when tested as specified in V-T-276 or A-A-50199. * 3.3.8 Gfmp. The gimp for reinforcing the buttonhole shall conform to type 1 or II, size No. 8 of A-A-50198. The color of the gimp shall be the same as indicated for thread in 3.3.7. * 3.3.8.1 Colorfastness. The gimp shall show fastnes

29、s to dry cleaning equal to or better than the standard sample. As a limit of acceptability, or when no standard sample is available, the colored gimp shall show a minimum of “good“ colorfastness to dry cleaning when tested as specified in A-A-50198, 3.3.9 Button, plastic. The button for the waistban

30、d closure shall conform to type II, class D, style 20 and 21, 24-line of V-B-871. The color of the button shall be shade Black BT, Cable No. 62001. 3.3.10 Plastic coil slide fastener. The slide fastener shall be manufactured of plastic, type I, style la (continuous chain) or 3 (pre-assembled), size

31、LS, automatic lock with bottom stop or bottom staple, with short tab pull conforming to V-F-106. The length of the style 3 slide fastener shall be 8 inches. The tape shall be a blend of nylon and cotton or polyester and cotton or 100% polyester. The complete slide fastener shall not shrink more than

32、 2% when tested as specified in V-F-106 (see 4.4.1). The style la (continuous chain) slide fastener requires the application of a slider and bottom stop during production of the skirt. 3.3.10.1 Color. The color of the slide fastener tape shall be black. The plastic coil slider shall be black. The pl

33、astic coil shall be black or colorless, 3.3.10.2 Colorfastness. The dyed slide fastener tape shall show colorfastness to dry cleaning equal to or better than the standard sample. As a limit of acceptability, or when no standard sample is available, the tape shall show a minimum of “good“ colorfastne

34、ss to dry cleaning when tested as specified in V-T-106. 3.3.11 Combination label, Each skirt shall have a combination identification, personal, and instruction label conforming to type VI, class 10 and 15 of DDD-L-20. The fastness to dry cleaning requirements of DDD-L-20 shall apply. The label shall

35、 bear the following inscription: 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-B7005D BY 999990b 0528Yb0 5 MIL-S-87005D (CG) NAME : SERVICE NO: SKIRT, WOMANS, DRESS (CG) FIBER CONTENT: CONTRACT NO: DLA 100-00-0-0000 (Example) NAME OF CONTRA

36、CTOR: NAME OF MANUFACTURER: Polyester (55)% and Wool (45%) (if other than contractor) DRY CLEAN ONLY 3.3.11.1 Size label. Each skirt have a size label conforming to type VI, class 2 of DDD-L-20 and bear the following inscription: SIZE 6R (EXAMPLE) STOCK NO: 8410-00-000-0000 (EXAMPLE) NOTE: 3.4 Desig

37、n. The skirt shall be A-line having four gores, one center front inverted kick pleat, a quarter top pocket on each hip, a left side slide fastener with a waistband button closure, and a two section waistband with seat seam outlet. The bottom of the skirt shall be unhemmed. The lengths: Short, Regula

38、r, and Long may be abbreviated as S, R, or L. (See Figure 1). 3.4.1 Figure. Figure 1 is furnished for information purposes only. When inconsistencies exist between the written specification and the figure, the written specification shall govern. 3.5 Pattern. Standard patterns will be furnished by th

39、e Government (see 6.3). The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns. Neither the Government patterns nor the working patterns shall be altered in any way, except that additional notches for use during construction are permitted on the working patterns. Also, minor modification

40、s are permitted where necessary when using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability, or appearance requirements cited in the specification. The patterns allow 1/2 inch for all seams, except as otherwise indicated in Table I. * 3.5.1 The component parts

41、 of the skirt shall be cut from the materials as specified and in accordance with the number of parts required for the manufacturing process as follows: List of pattern parts. Mat er ia1 Nomenclature of pattern parts Cut parts Basic material Front 2 Back 2 Pocket facing 2 Pocket bearer 2 Placket 1 F

42、ront and right back waistband 1 Left back waistband 1 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-87005D (CG) 3.6 Construction. 3.6.1 Stitches, seams and stitchings. Stitch, seam and stitching types specified in Table I shall conform to F

43、ED-STD-751. Whenever two or more methods for seam or stitch types are given for the same part of the operation, any one may be used. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, runoffs, twists, pleats, puckers or open seams result. All seams shall start and finish evenl

44、y. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there is no tight or loose stitching. Where stitch type 401 is used, the looper (underthread) shall be on the inside of the skirt. Ends of all seams produced by stitch type 401 shall be caught in other seams or stitching. Edge stitching shall be 1/16 to

45、1/8 inch from the edge, and topstitching shall be 1/4 inch from the edge. The bight of the overedge stitching shall be 3/16 inch. The guide and knife shall be set to trim only the ravelled ends of the fabric. Double needle stitching shall be 114 (+ 1/16) inch gauge, with the outer row of stitching 1

46、/16 to 118 inch from th more than 1 inch e. Woven in waste on outside, visible at 3 feet (longest dimension in any direction): 1. 1/4 inch up to 1 inch inclusive 2. More than 1 inch X in seaming or stitching) on outside X 1. Up to 1/2 inch inclusive X 2. More than 1/2 inch X f. Permanent fold, pleat

47、 or crease in cloth (when caught g. Needle chew on outside: II. SHADED PART a. Variation in shade within an outside part or between outside parts (except parts which may-be cut from ends) X b. Any part cut from ends which does not approximate shade of skirts X c. Any part required to be cut from one

48、 piece of material shaded X X V X - 1/ Knot and slub defects shall be in accordance with basic material requirements. 20 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-87005D (CG) Table III - Classification of Defects (contd) Defect Major Mino

49、r A B III. CLEANNESS a. Spot or stain on outside visible at 3 feet (largest - dimension in any direction): 1. Up to 3/8 inch inclusive 2. 3. More than 3/4 inch inch or less on outside inch or less on inside Any size or shade marking or residue on outside, score as spot or stain More than 3/8 inch up to 3/4 inch inclusive b. Three or more thread ends not trimmed to 1/4 c. Five or more thread ends not trimmed to 1/2 d, Two or more shade o