NAVY MIL-S-41825 F-1988 SLACKS WOMEN-S《女式便裤》.pdf

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1、MIL-S-41825F 84 W 9799706 037L450 b W C-8I- 18 80 AUG g98. MIL-S-41825F(NU) SUPERSEDING MIL-S-41825E 10 October 1984 MILITARY SPECIFICATION SLACKS, WOMENS This specification is approved for use by the Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, Department of the Navy and is available for use by all

2、 Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for womens slacks. 1.2 Classification. The slacks shall be of one type and class, in the following sizes, and lengths (see 6.2): Typ II - Flared leg Class 1 - Polyesterflool, Tropic

3、al, Blue 3346 (Navy, Officers and Enlisted ) 1.2.2 Sizes and lengths. Sizes: 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 18, 20, and 22 Lengths: Short, Regular, and Long Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document shou

4、ld be addressed to: Officer in Charge, Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, 21 Strathmore Road, Natick, MA 01760-2490 by using the self-addressed Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. AMSC N/A FSC 8410 DISTRIBUTION ST

5、ATEMENT A. Approved for public release, - distribution is unlimited. f 1 THIS DOCUMENT CONTAINS 23 PAGES. - e Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-41825F 4 = 799770b 0391452 _ - = ,. 2. APPLICABLE DEUMEWTS 2.1 Government documents. 2

6、.1.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this specification to the extent specified. Unless otherwise specified, the issue of these documents shall be those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Smcificat

7、ions and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the sli ci tat ion. SPEC1 FI CATIONS FEDERAL V-B-871 V-F-106 V-T-276 V-T-280 NN-P-71 . DDD-L-29 - Button, Sewing Hole, and Button Staple (Plastic) - Fasteners, Slide, Interlocking . - Thread, Cotton - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole - Pal

8、let, Material Handling, Wood, Stringer Construction, 2 Way and 4 Way (Partial) - Label; For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General use ) MILITARY MIL-B-17757 MIL-C-21115 MIL-T-43548 MIL-C-43718 MIL-P-15011 STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-7 51 MILITARY MIL-STP-105 MI L-STD-129 MI L-STD-147 MIL-STD-656 Bo

9、xes, Shipping, Fiberboard (Modular Sizes) Cloth, Tropical: Wool, Polyester/Wool Thread, Polyester, Core: Cotton, -Rayon, or Cloth, “Will, Polyester; Polyester and Cotton; Pallet, Material Handling, Wood, Post Construction, Polyester Covered Polyester and Rayon 4 Way Entry Stitches, Seams, and Stitch

10、ings Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Marking for Shipment and Storage Palletized Unit Loads Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Slacks, Womens Attributes (Copies of specifications, standards, drawings, and publications required by contractors in connection with specific procurement

11、 functions should be obtained from the procuring activity or as directed by the contracting officer.) 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-2.1.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government docum

12、ents, drawings, and pub1 ications form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein.Unless otherwise specified, the issues shall be those in effect on the date of solicitation. LAWS AND REGULATIONS U.S. POSTAL SERVICE MANU Polyester (55%) and Wool (45%)(Example) CONTRACMRS NAME: NAME

13、OF MANUFACTURER: (If other than contractor) CONTRACT NO: DLA-100-00-O-0000 (Exanple) DRY CLEAN ONLY 3.3.7.2 Removable size ticket. Each pair of slacks shall have a commercial type size ticket attached to the outside of the waistband, centered above the back waist darts. The ticket shall be approxima

14、tely 3 inches long and 1 inch high, made of a suitable plain white cardboard. The corners of the ticket may be double perforated for ease in tacking. The size (22R-Example) shall be printed or stamped on the upper left hand corner in black or blue ink. The lettering for the size shall be 1/4 inch in

15、 height. Abbreviations for lengths shall be allowed in accordance with 3.3.7.3. 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-43825F 84 m 7777906 0373455 5 m a. MIL-S-41825F(NU) 3.3.7.3 Size label. The size label for the slacks shall confor

16、m to type VI, class 2 and shall bear the following inscription: Size 1411 (Example) STOCK NO: 8410-00-000-0000 (Example) NOTE: The lengths (short, regular and long) may be abbreviated as S, R or L . and left side slide fastener closure with placket. and unhemmed (see Figure 1). The slacks shall have

17、 front and back waist darts, right hand The leg shall be flared pocket, two section waistband with buttonhole tab extension 3.4.1 Fi re. Figure 1 is furnished for information purposes only. To the extent o* inconsistencies between the written specification and the figure, the written specification s

18、hall govern. Standard patterns to be used to cut working patterns will be furnish-the Government (see 6.3). The patterns allow 1/2 inch seam allowance for all seams, except as otherwise indicated in Table I. The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns. Neither the Government p

19、atterns nor the working patterns shall be altered in any way except that additional notches for use during construction are allowed on the .working patterns. * 3.5.1 List of pattern parts. The component parts of the slacks shall be cut from material as specified. 3.5 Patterns. Nomenclature of Mate r

20、ial pattern parts Cut parts Basic material Front Back Wai s tband Waistband-back left side Pocket facing Placket 2 2 1 1 1 1 y Pockets 2 y mill Cloth - i/ when pocket is cut from basic material the facing may be included in the one piece pocket part. 2/ Pocket may be cut in one piece. Pocket may be

21、cut from basic material. - 3.6 Construction. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-4L25F L( m 7777706 0331956 7 = MIL-S-41825F(NU) c 3.6.1 Stitches, seams, and stitchinq. Stitch, seam, and stitching types specified in Table I shall co

22、nform to FED-STD-751. Whenever two or more methods for seam or stitch types are given for the same operation, any one of them may be used. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, runoffs, twists, pleats, puckers or open seams result. All seams shall start and finish

23、 evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there is no tight or loose stitching. Where stitch type 401 is used, the looper (underthread) shall be on the inside of the slacks. Ends of all seams produced by stitch type 401 shall be caught in other seams or stitchings. 3.6.1.1 Stitches per inc

24、h. The minimurn and maximum number of stitches per inch shall be as specified in Table I. 3.6.1.2 Thread breaks and ends oi seams. The ends of all seams and stitching, when not caught in other seams or stitching, shall be backstitched not less than 3/8 inch. The ends o the label stitching shall be o

25、verlapped not less than 3 stitches; or shall run past the label 1/2 inch. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of the break not less than 1/2 inch. Skipped stitches may be repaired by using 301 stitch type. The ends of a continuous line of stitching shall be overlapped

26、 not less than 1/2 inch. The seat seam must be completely resewn. Thread ends at lower ends of darts shall not be trimmed closer than 1/2 inch in length or when an automatic dart machine is used thr thread ends at lower end of dart shall be backstitched. A 1/2 inch chain shall extend from the end of

27、 401 stitching at the outseam and inseams. The bisht of the overedqe stitchinq shall be 3/16 inch. The guide and knife shall 6e set to trim onfy the ravefled ends of the faixic. 3.6.2 Bartacks. Unless otherwise specified, all bartacks shall be 1/4 (+ - 1/16) inch long and 1/8 (+ - 1/32) inch wide. 3

28、.7 Manufacturing operations requirements. The slacks shall be manufactured in accordance with all operation requirements specified in Table I. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations as specified, provided the finished slacks are identical to those produced by follo

29、wing the sequence of operations as specified in Table I. All pressing required in Table I shall be done with a heated pressing iron or machine. The abbeviations used in table I are as -follows: 3.7.1 Pressing. 3.7.2 Abbreviations in table of operations. Stch - stitch in - inch Ndl - Needle Bob - Bob

30、bin LPr - Looper Mchne - Machine Brtck - Bartack Comrcl - Commerical smlar - similar Btnhl - Buttonhole incl - including dbl - double 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-4125F 4 m 9979706 0371957 7 = WLE I - CONSTRUCTION OF SLACKS

31、 Thread 0 No. Operation Stch sew Stch Ndl Bob/ Type Stch type in Lpr 1. Cutting a. Cut the slacks in strict accordance with patterns furnished, which shall show size, placement of component parts, directional lines for cutting, drill marks (for finished assembly of parts. b. All component parts of t

32、he basic material shall be cut from one piece of material exkept pocket facings, and placket piece, which may be cut from ends. Parts cut from ends shall approximate the shade of the main assembly. c. Place fronts and backs so that the directional line is in the warp direction. The directional line

33、may vary from the warp direction by not more than 1 inch on fronts and backs. Measurement shall be taken from the top and bottom of the directional line on the pattern to the selvage edge of the fabric. The difference between the two measurements shall not exceed the tolerance specified. length of d

34、arts) and notches for proper 1 2. Replacement of defective components During the spreading, cutting and manufacturing process, components having material defects or damages that are classified as defects in MIL-STD-656 shall be removed from production and replaced with non-defective and properly mat

35、ched components. *3. Shade markin ds of the basic material shall be marked or ticketed to insure a uniform shade and proper assembly throughout the slacks except parts cut from ends. b. The use of corrosive metal fastening devices or sewn-on tickets for shade marking is prohibited. I 8 Provided by I

36、HSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-LI3825F 84 9999906 0393458 O MIGS-41825F TABLE I - coNcTRucTIoN OF SLACKS Thread No. Operation Stch Seam/ Stch Nil Bob/ Type Stch type in Lpr c. Adhesive tickets which discolor or adhere to the material upon r

37、emoval of the tickets are prohibited. d. The use of ink pad numbering machine, rubber stamp, or pencil is acceptable provided the numbers do not show on the outside of the slacks. Whenever possible, numbers shall be covered by the seam allowance. 4. veredge stitchin a, veredge stitch the raw edges o

38、f the inseams, outseams, center front seam and bottom of foreparts. b. veredge stitch the raw edges of the inseams, outseams, seat seam and bottom of back parts, Overedge ends of waistband at the outlet and the inside bottom edges of waistband. (When contractor exercises the option to turn waistband

39、 edge under (see operation lof), the bottom edge need not be ove redged ) . c. Fold placket piece in half lengthwise and overedge stitch side and bottom raw edges together. 5. Make darts The darts shall be tapered on the inside without twists or puckers. 503 or 504 or 602 503 or 504 or 602 503 or 50

40、4 or 602 t EFd-1 EFd-1 SSa-1 9 8-10 8-1 O 8-10 70 70 70 70 70 70 . , Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-43825F 84 7779706 0373457 2 MIL-S-41825F TABLE I - CONSTRUCTION OF SLACKS No. Ope rat ion Stch seam, Thread - Stch . Ndl Bob/ “

41、ype Stch type in Lpr a. Fold and stitch darts as indicated by notches and drill holes. Drill holes shall not be exposed on the outside of the slacks. When using drill holes, they should be 1/4 to 1/2 inch above bottom point of dart. b. and center back respectively. Press folded darts toward the cent

42、er front 6. Set pocket (right front .waist) and attach .I 1-1 a. Stitch the combination personal, identification, instruction label on all four sides to the bottom of pocketing on outside. The label shall face the slacks when worn. Pocket stitching shall not be through label. NOTE: When pocket is cu

43、t from basic material and no facing is used, allow for fold back and topstitching when placing the label. b. Superimpose facing on inner pocket piece, turn in lower raw edge of facing and stitch to pocket piece. When facing is cut on selvage, the edge need not be turned. When facing and pocketing ar

44、e cut in one piece from basic fabric, turn facing portion back over inner pocket, turn under raw edge and topstitch. or C. As an option, to facilitate assembly, sides and top edge of facing may be stitched to pocket piece. d. Stitch outer pocket piece to top edge of right front between notches, 3/8

45、inch from raw edge. e. Notch to seam at each end of pocket opening, turn and topstitch pocket piece to slacks, 1/16 inch from folded edge. 301 301 301 301 301 301 OSf-1 12-14 t LSb j-1 12-14 50 50 50 50 EFt-2 12-14- 50 50 9 SSa-1 12-14 SCe-2 ( a) 12-14 SSe-2 (b) 12-14 50 50 50 50 50 50 Provided by I

46、HSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-4L25F 4 m 7777706 037L1160 7 m MIL-S-41825F TABLE I - CONSTRUCTION OF SLACKS Thread No. Operation Stch sew Stch .Ndl Bob/ Type Stch type -in Lpr f. Stitch inner and outer pocket pieces together around sides an

47、d bottom, 1/4 to 5/16 inch from raw edge. g. Overedge stitch sides and bottom of pocket plies. or * h, As an alternate, operations f and g may be performed in one operation by simultaneously stitching and overedging. . 301 SSa-1 . 12-14 or 401 503 SSa-1 8-10 or t 504 . or 602 515 SSa-1 8-10 or 516 o

48、r 519 (b NOTE: The pocket may be cut in one piece. i. Tack or bartack pocket at each end of opening through all plies with a vertical tack or bartack visible below waistband. The tack or bartack shall be 1/4 inches in length. j. Finished pocket shall measure 3-1/2 (+ .1/4) inches wide at the opening

49、 and 4 (+ - 1/47 inches deep. a. Match notches of left front and back at outceam and join 1/2 inch from edge. Stitching shall terminate at bottom of side closure opening. 7. Join outseams and attach slide fastener Bartack 21-28 or 301 301 or 401 per brtck 10-14 SSa-1 12-14 50 50 50 70 70 70 50 70 (chain- stitch- ing ) 70 70 ( over- edge stitch- ing) 50 50 50 50 50 50 50 70 11 I Provided by IHSNo