NAVY MIL-L-21635 D-1979 LAST FOOTWEAR (SHOE WOMEN-S OXFORD)《 鞋楦(女式 剑桥 鞋)》.pdf

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1、 MIL-L-ZLb35D 83 m 777770b 0382707 b _- MIL-L-21635D 30 November 1979 SUPERSEDING MIL-L-21635C 22 May 1973 MILITARY SPECIFICATION LAST, FOOTWEAR (SHOE, WOMENS, OXFORD) This specification is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1 Scope. This Specif

2、ication covers the requirements for plastic footwear lasts used in the manufacture of footwear for female personnel. *1.2 Classification. The lasts shall be of one type in the following sizes and widths as specified (see 6.2). Schedule of sizes and widths SIZES Widths 4 4% 5 5% 6 6% 7 7% 8 8% 9 9% 1

3、0 10% 11 11% AAAAA xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx AAAA xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx AAA xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx AA xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx A xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx B xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx C xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx D xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx E xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx EE xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx 2. APPLICABLE DO

4、CUMENTS k2.1 Issues of documents. . The following documents, of the issue in effect on date of invitation for bids or request for proposal, form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions,-deletions) and any pertinent data which may b

5、e of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Officer in Charge, Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, 21 Strathmore Road, Natick, MA 01760, or by using the self-addressed standardization Document Improvement Propose1 (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by le

6、tter. FSC 8335 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- - MIL-L-23b35D 83 9977706 0382930 2 U XIL-L-216359 SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL V-T-276 - Thread, Cotton CCC-C-467 - Cloth, Burlap, Jute (or Kenaf) STANDARDS FEDERAL - FED-STD-751 - Stitches,

7、Seams, and Stitchings MILITARY MIL-STD-105 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection MIL-STD-129 - Marking for Shipment and Storage MIL-STD-130 - Identification Marking of US Military Property by Attributes (Copies of specifications, standards, drawings and publications required by contractors

8、 in connection with specific procurement functions should be obtained from the procuring activity or as directed the the contracting officer . ) LAWS AND REGULATIONS US POSTAL SERVICE MANUAL (Copies of the manual may be obtained from the Superintendent of Documents, US Government Printing Office, Wa

9、shington, DC 20402). *2.2 Other publications. The following documents form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless a specific issue is identified, the.issue in effect on date of invitation for bids or request for proposal shall apply. AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATE

10、RIALS (ASTM) STANDARD D1248-74 - Polyethylene Plastics Molding and Extrusion Materials E18-74 - Rockwell Hardness and Rockwell Superficial Hardness of . Metallic Materials (Application for copies should be addressed to the American Society for Testing Materials, 1916 Race Street, Philadelphia, PA 19

11、103). Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-L-21635D NATIONAL MOTOR FREIGHT TRAFFIC ASSOCIATION, INC., AGENT National Motor Freight Classification (Application for copies should be addressed to the American Trucking Associations, Inc.,

12、Attn: Traffic Department, 1616 P Street, NW, Washington, DC 20036.) UNIFORM CLASSIFICATION COMMITTEE, AGENT Uniform Freight Classification (Application for copies should be addressed to the Uniform Classification Committee, Room 1106, 222 South Riverside Plaza, Chicago, ILL 60606.) 3 REQUIREMENTS 3.

13、1 Guide samples. Samples, when furnished, are solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variations from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case this specification shall govern. 3.2 First article. When specified (see 6.2), the contractor shall furnish sample

14、unit(s) for the first article inspection and approval (see 4.2). 3.3 Material. *3.3.1 Polyethylene blocks. The lasts shall be made from polyethylene blocks. The polyethylene blocks shall be made from solid high density polyethylene without fillers, conforming to types III or IV (except that the dens

15、ity of type IV shall not exceed 0.965), category 4 or 5 of ASTM D1248-74. be the standard color used by the contractor. virgin material or reground scrap material of the same composition produced by regrinding clean unburned scrap produced in the fabrication of last blocks, finished lasts, and imper

16、fect lasts. Scrap containing dirt or other foreign material shall not be used. The color shall The blocks shall be made from 3.3.2 Metal hinges. The metal hinges shall be a commercial type, made of steel, and zinc chromated to resist moisture, *3.3.3 Hinge pins. The hinge pins shall be made of steel

17、 wire and shall The pins shall be not less than 15/64 inch be heat treated to a hardness value.of 45 to 50 Rockwell C scale when tested as specified in 4.3.1. nor more than 19/64 inch in diameter. the surface of the sides of the lasts. The pins shall be zinc chromated to resist moisture and shall be

18、 mechanically peened. The pins shall be countersunk under 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-_ NIL-L-21635D 3 m 979990b 0382912 b m MIL-L-21635D 3.3.4 Thimbles The thimbles shall be manufac ired from steel sheet or tubing stock, and sh

19、all be heat treated to a hardness value of 55 to 88 Rockwell B scale when tested as specified in 4.31. The thimbles shall be either drawn, split, or swaged tubing types. All thimbles shall be full-flanged with a closed or a partially closed bottom, and shall be the lock-in type. Dimensions for last

20、thimbles shall correspond to the following when tested as specified in 4.3.1. Inside diameter - 0.500 (f. 0.046) inch Overall length - 1.625 (+ 0.063) inches Depth of hole - 1.500 (T O. 063) inches Wall thickness - 0.0475 to 0.950 inch Flange diameter - 0.750 (+ - 0.063) inch 3.3.5 Heelplates The he

21、elplates shall be not less than 2 9/16 inches long on size 4 1/2 B and shall measure proportionate to normal grade on other sizes, and shall have a 1/2 (+ 1/32) inch hole in the center for insole tacking and five countersunknail holes as specified in 3.5.3. The heelplates shall be made from either h

22、ot-galvanized or electrogalvanized sheet steel, 0.050 (+ 0.005) inch thick and shall be treated to a hardness value of 48 to 67 Rockwell B scale when tested as specified in 4.3.1. 3.3.6 Heelplate attaching nails. The nails for attaching the heelplate on lasts shall be 15 or 16 gage, 5/8 to 3/4 inch

23、long barbed, iron wire nails with 1/8 (+ 1/32) inch diameter flat heads; shall have a ringed chisel points; and shall not be cement coated when tested as specified in 4.3.1. 3.3.7 - Ink. Ink for marking the lasts shall be black, shall not blur, shall meet the marking adhesion requirements in 3.9.1,

24、and shall be set permanently into the plastic by heat. 3.4 Models, patterns, and templates. 3.4.1 Turning models. Turning models for each size and width required will be furnished by the Government (see 6.4). Turning models shall be in whole sizes and widths specified in the schedule of sizes, with

25、the final measurement for the last of that size plainly marked on each model. Sizes 4 to 5 1/2 shall be turned on size 4 model; sizes 6 to 8 1/2 shall be turned on size 7 model; sizes 9 to 11 1/2 shall be turned on size 10 model. last shall be turned from a model of a different width. No 3.4.2 Repla

26、cement of turning models. Models worn to the point of un- serviceability in the production of properly graded lasts will be replaced by the Government. All models shall be returned to the Government at the close of the contract. Worn models that need replacement shall be marked “Unserviceable“ . 4 P

27、rovided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-L-21635D 3 W 977990b 0382933 MIL-L-21635D *3.4.3 Last bottom patterns. Necessary turning bottom patterns and finished bottom patterns will be loaned to the contractor by the Government (see 6.4). . W

28、hen prehinging method is used, the turning bottom patterns do not apply. 3.4.4 Templates. Templates for use in checking the lasts will be loaned to the contractor by the Government. (see 6.4). 3.5 Constructfon. *3.5.1 Hinge cutting, slotting, and assembly. The hinge V-cut and circle sawcut shall cor

29、respond to the hinge pin holes CO that the last, with a correctly inserted hinge, will open and close in a satisfactory manner. inside sharp corners on the plastic lasts shall have a slight radius made by running over the edge with a hot wire to eliminate stress risers made by cutters during the hin

30、ge cutting operation. cutter to eliminate stress risers shall be permitted. As an alternate, the equipment and method used for prehinging is permitted. All The use of a radius ground 3.5.2 Thimble hole. The thimble hole shall be bored to such a size that when the thimble is inserted in the plastic l

31、ast, it shall be locked into the plastic. Thimbles shall be countersunk on plastic lasts. On sizes 7 1/2 through 11 1/2 (all widths), the thimble holes shall be centered 1 1/2 (+ 1/16) inches from the back of the last top. On sizes below 7 1/2 (all widths) the holes shall be centered 13/8 (+ - 1/16)

32、 inches from the back of the last top. 3.5.3 Heelplating, The heelplate on the finished last shall be flush with, but not overlaying, the outside edge of the last. A narrow margin of plastic, having a maximum width of not more than 1/16 inch in the curved area beginning 3/8 inchfrom the breast line

33、of the plate, is acceptable. plastic in the area 3/8 inch from the breast line on each side of the plate is not limited. The breast of the heelplate shall butt up to the plastic. The heelplate shall be attached with five nails of the type specified in 3.3.6. The position of the heel nails shall be a

34、ccording to industry practice with countersunk nail holes punched not less than 3/8 inch or more than 5/8 inch from the edge of the plate, except that the two front nail holes shall be not less than 3/16 inch nor more than 3/8 inch from the breast of the heelplate. The side nails shall be located eq

35、uidistant between the breast nails and the back nail. The heelplate shall be punched with a 1/2 (-i 1/32) inch tack hole located approximately in the center of the heelplate, measuring both from the breast to the end of the heelplate and from side to side. The heelplate shall be cupped to conform to

36、 the contour of the heel seat of the last. The margin of 3.5.4 Heel and toe making. heel and toe profile templates. The heel and toe shall be shaped following the 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-.- - flIL-L-ZLb35D 3 7779906 0382734

37、T M MIL-L-21635D =. 3.6 Measurements and grading. The contractor shall check the turning models but shall make no modifications except for slight adjustments to fit the turning model bottom to the paper last bottom patterns furnished by the Government. The finished lasts shall conform to the measure

38、ments .specified in Table I. Bottoms for size 4 lasts shall grade the same from width AAAAA to B; the length of C shall be 1/24 inch longer than B; the length of D shall be 1/12 inch longer than B; and the length of E to EE shall be 3/24 inch longer than B. There shall be a 114 inch size break on si

39、ze 10. waist and inst-ep girths shall grade 114 inch between whole sizes, 114 inch between widths AA to D, 3/16 inch between widths AAAAA to AA, and E to EE. Heel girths shall grade 118 inch between widths and 13/32 inch between whole sizes. inch between whole sizes. I. Ball, Thickness of the toes s

40、hall grade 1/64 inch between widths and 1/64 The stick lengths shall be as specified in Table The ball widths shall grade 1/16 inch between widths. Table I - Table of measurements L/ ize 4 - 7 O Width AAAAA AAAA AAA AA A B C D E EE AAAAA AAAA AAA AA A B C D E EE AAAAA AAAA AAA AA A Ball girth 6 9/16

41、 6 314 6 15/16 7 118 7 318 7 518 7 718 8 1/16 8 114 8 7/16 7 5/16 7 112 7 11/16 7 718 8 118 8 318 8 518 8 13/16 9 9 3/16 8 1/16 8 114 8 7/16 8 518 8 718 Waist girth 6 318 6 9/16 6 314 6 15/16 7 3/16 7 7/16 7 11/16 7 718 8 1/16 8 114 7 118 7 5/16 7 11/16 7 15/16 8 3/16 8 7/16 8 518 8 13/16 9 7 718 8

42、1/16 8 114 8 7/16 8 11/16 7 112 e Instep girth 6 15/16 7 118 7 5/16 7 112 7 314 8 8 114 8 7/16 8 518 8 13/16 7 11/16 7 718 8 1/16 8 114 8 112 8 314 9 9 3/16 9 318 9 9/16 8 7/16 8 518 8 13/16 9 9 114 Heel girth 11 1/16 11 3/16 11 5/16 11 7/16 11 9/16 11 11/16 11 13/16 11 15/16 12 1/16 12 3/16 12 114

43、12 318 12 112 12 518 12 314 12 718 13 13 118 13 114 13 318 13 112 13 518 13 314 13 718 14 Size stick length measurement 2 114 2 114 2 114 2 114 2 114 2 114 2 318 2 112 2 518 2 518 5 114 5 114 5 114 5 114 5 114 5 114 5 318 5 112 5 518 5 518 8 114 8 114 8 114 8 114 8 114 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleN

44、o reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-L-21635D Table I - Table of measurements L/ (contd) I I I I I Ball Waist Instep Heel Size Width girth girth girth girth 10 B 9 1/8 8 15/16 9 1f2 14 1/8 9 3/8 9 3/16 9 3/4 14 1/4 9 9/16 9 3/8 9 15/16 14 3/8 9 3/4 9 9/16 10 1/8 14

45、 1/2 9 15/16 9 3/4 10 5/16 14 5/8 Size stick length measurement 8 1/4 8 3/8 8 1/2 8 5/8 8 5/8 - i/ The tolerance for the finished stick length, ball, waist, instep and heel girth shall be (+ 1/32) inch. Finished last bottoms shall conform to measurements of finished last bottom patterns furnished by

46、 the Government with a tolerance of (+ - 1/32) inch in length and a (+ - 1/48) inch in width. 3.7 Marking. 3.7.1 Size and width stamping. The sawcut of the heel part shall be clearly and legibly rubber-stamped with the proper size of the last, using ink specified in 3.3.7. The numerical size shall b

47、e stamped on the left of the hinge cut and start no more than 3/16 inch from the bottom of the sawcut. The width shall be stamped on the heel part of the sawcut at the right side of the available space and placed so that bottoms of letters are within 1/16 inch of the top of last. On five-letter and

48、four-letter width, the stamping may be done using 5A and 48 in lieu of AAAAA and AAAA. stamping shall be not less than 1/2 inch nor more than 3/4 inch in height and not less than 1/4 inch nor more than 3/8 inch in width. All sawcut stamping shall be readable when viewed from directly above the thimb

49、le. addition to the stamping on the sawcut, the size and width designations shall be plainly rubber-stamped on the outside of the last, just ahead of the sawcut, 1 1/2 (Ifi 1/2) inches from the top of the cone, to read horizontally. Charrcters for this stamping shall be sane size as for sawcut staaping. The width designation shall be on a line with the size designation. width shall be clearly and legibly die stamped (incised) on the forepart of