NAVY MIL-J-7823 E-1971 JACKETS FLYER-S INTERMEDIATE TYPE G-1《G-1类飞行夹克》.pdf

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1、MIL-J-7823E 8Li m 9779706 043b4b2 7 y (C ont hued) 3ML-STD- 129 Marking for Shipment and Storage MS27980 Fasteners, Snap, Style 2 (Regular Wire Spring Clamp TYP) MSB 30 3 3 Eyelets, Metallic, Rolled Deep Flange, With Washer, Style A When requesting any of the applicable documents, refer to both titl

2、e and num- b 580 1 Tabor Avenue, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania 19120, All other documents should be obtained from the procuring activity or as directed by the contracting officer.) 3, REQUIREMENTS 3.1 First article - Unless otherwise specified, the Type G-1 inter- mediate, flyers jackets furnished unde

3、r this Specification shall be a product which has been inspected and has passed the first article inspection specified in 4.3 through 4.3.2, 392 Materials and components - The materials and components shall conform to the applicable specifications and standards as listed or required herein. 3.2.1 Le

4、ather - 3.2.1.1 Outershell - The outershell, of the jacket, shall be fabricated from the leather conforming to KK-L-170, Type r, Class 2, 2/64 to 3/64 inch thick, The leather shall be dyed brown and the color shall match the following Munsell Color Notation, Hue 10R to 5YR, Value 2 to 3, Chroma O. 2

5、 to 2, when inspected as speci- fied in 4.5.1. 3.2,l.Z Packets, flaps, facings, belt, reinforcement, undercollar, and - The pockets, flaps, facings, belt, reinforcement, undercollar, and hanger shall.be fabricated from the outershell leather, 3.2.1.1. 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction o

6、r networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-I MIL-J-7823E 4 77777Ob 04364b5 4 3.2.2 Lining - 3.2.2.1 Jacket - The lining, for the jacket, shall be fabricated from the . nylon oxford cloth conforming to MIL-C-508, Type I, Class 2. The color of the cloth shall match the color of the leather ou

7、tershell, when inspected as specified in 4.5.1. 3.2.2: 2 Pockets - 3.2.2.2.1 c_ Outer - The outer pocket lining shall be fabricated from the silesia cloth conforming to MIL-C-326, Type I, color black. 3.2.2.2.2 lining cloth, 3.2.2.1. - Inner - The inner pocket shall be fabricated from the jacket 3.2

8、.2.3 fabricated from the buckram cloth conforming to CCC-C-438, Type TI, Class 2, color optional. Interlining - The collar and pocket flap interlining shall be 3.2.2.4 Hanger reinforcement - The hanger reinforcement shalI be fabricated from the interlining cloth, 3.2.2.3, and shall be located under

9、the hanger, between the lining and leather outershell. 3.2.3 Mouton - The mouton, for the top portion of the collar, shall con- form to MIL-M-5631, Type I, Class 1 or MIL-C-6590, Type EI. The mouton shall be dyed brown and shall match the following Munsell Color Notation, Hue 10R to 5YR, Value 2 to

10、3, Chroma O. 2 to 2, when inspected as specified in 4.5.1. The moth- proofing treatment of MIL-M-563 1 is not applicable. 3.2.4 Knit wrist cuffs and waistband - The knit wrist cuffs and waist- band shall conform to MIL-C-3735, Type I, Class 2, for the cuffs, and Class 3, for the waistband, except th

11、at the shrink resistant treatment is not applicable and that the width and length of the waistband shall conform to the patterns, The color of the knit wrist cuffs and waistband shall match the color of the leather outershell, 3.2.1.1, when inspected as specified in 4.5.1. 3.2.5 IT, Class 1 or 2, Si

12、ze E, except that the jacket lining parts may be joined together with Size B. The thread shall have at least Igood“ colorfastness to dry cleaning, perspiration, and light. The color of the thread shall match the color of the leather outershell, 3.2.1.1, when inspected as specified in 4.5.1. Thread -

13、 The sewing thread shall conform to V-T-295, Type I or 3.2.6 Gimp - The gimp thread, for reinforcing the buttonholes, shall conform to V-T-280, Type I or EI, Size Number 8, The color of the gimp thread shall approxiniately match the color of the leather outershell, 3,2.1,1, when inspected as specifi

14、ed in 4.5.1. The gimp thread shall have at least “good“ color- fastness to dr,y cleaning. 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-J-723E 84 = 77977Ob 0436466 b W 3.2.7 Buttons - The buttons shall conform to V-B-871, Type II, Class D, St

15、yle 20 or 21, Size 30 Line, Dull Finish. imately match the color of the leather outershell, 3.2.1.1, when inspected as specified in 4.5.1. The color of the buttons shall approx- 3.2.8 Elastic webbing - The elastic webbing shall conform to JJ-W-155 , Type I, Class 3, 3/4 inch wide, natural color. The

16、 length of the elastic webbing shall conform to the patterns. 3.2.9 Slide fastener - The slide fastener shall conform to V-F-106 and Tables I and 11. chain and all the other metal components shall be brass with a natural finish, except that the slider may be fabricated from a zinc alloy, brass plate

17、d, fastener tapes shall be nylon, dyed to approximately match the color of the leather outershell, 3.2.1.1, when inspected as specified in 4.5.1, and shall have at least Ifgood“ colorfastness to laundering and wet dry cleaning. A thong, fabricated from the leather outershell, 5/16 *l/lE inch wide, s

18、hall be looped through and securely knotted to the pull, approximately at the center of the thong length. finished length of the thong shall be 2-1/2 +1/4 inches. be cut on an angle of approximately 60 degrees. fastener in the upward direction. The chain endurance inspection of V-F-106 is applicable

19、. The The slide The free The ends of the thong shall The slider shall close the slide TABLE I SLIDE FASTENER PROPERTIES CHARACTER ISTICS REQUIREMENTS Type IV Style 8 Size MH Type of pull Wire stirrup, 1-1/4 inches long TABLE II SLIDE FASTENER LENGTHS JACKET SLIDE FASTENER LENGTH SIZE INCHES 36 and38

20、 21-1/4 40, 42, and 44 22 46 and 48 22-1/2 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-Style 2, Finish 2 or 5, and MS27980-1B, -2B or -3B, -6B, -7B, and -8B. 3.2.11 Eyelets - The eyelets shall conform to MIL-E-20652, Style A, and 111663033-3-15

21、63. 3.3 Design - The jacket shall consist essentially of a leather outer- shell, lined throughout the body and sleeves with the nylon cloth, and a top collar of mouton. The jacket shall conform in appearance to Figures 1 and 2. 3.4 Construction - The construction of the Type G-1 intermediate, flyers

22、 jacket shall conform to Figures 1 through 11. 3.4.1 Cutting - The leather and the lining shall be cut in strict accord- ance with the furnished patterns which show seam allowance, size, shape, and glace- ment of all the pockets and notches for the assembling of all the parts. The knitted material,

23、for the waistband, shall be cut so that the wales direction shall be in the nine inch dimension (see the patterns). The lining gussets may be cut from the ends. 3.4.2 Shade and size marking - Except for the lining gussets, cut from the ends (see 3.4.1); all the component parts of the leather outersh

24、ell and the jacket lining shall be marked or ticketed to insure a uniform shade, grain pattern, and proper assembly throughout the jacket. The bundling method may be used for the leather skins provided, they conform to 3.4.2. f. No metal fastening device or sewn-on ticket shall be used. The shade an

25、d size markings shall be accomplished by the use of an ink pad numbering machine, rubber stamp, or pencil, provided the markings do not show through to the outerside of the jacket or the jacket lining and are not deleterious to the leather or the cloth. The markings, which are placed on the seam all

26、owance, shall not be visible in the assembled garment. The adhesive type shade and size marking tickets may be used, for the shade and size markingst provided, they conform to 3.4.2.2. The assembled jacket shall not contain any shade or size marking tickets. 3.4.2.1 Bundling method - The skins shall

27、 be segregated, into groups of the various shades, to assure a uniform shade and grain pattern throughout the outer- shell of the jacket. The color of the skins shall conform to 3.2.1.1. Sufficient com- ponent parts shall be cut, from each group, for as many complete jacket outershells as possible.

28、The component parts, of each individual group, shall be assembled into a bundle and the top ply of each individual component part shall be marked with the bundle number and size of the jacket. The manner of the marking shall comply with 3.4.2. The component parts, cut from various groups, shall not

29、be joined together to construct a jacket outershell. 3.4.2.2 Adhesive shade and size marking tickets - The adhesive shade and size marking tickets shall be fabricated from paper with a thermo-activated 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-

30、,-MIL-J-7823E 811 W 9999906 04361168 T M MIL-J-7 823E(AS) adhesive applied on one side. The adhesive shall not discolor or damage the cloth or leather and the adhesive mass shall not adhere to the cloth or leather, upon removal of the ticket. The heat used to attach the thermo-activated adhesive tic

31、kets shall not stiffen, harden, scorch, or damage the leather or cloth, as applicable, in any manner. 3.4.3 Seams and stitching - All the seams used in the fabrication of the jacket shall conform to Figures 1 through 11 and unless otherwise specified, shall be accomplished with Stitch Type 301. All

32、the sections of the lining, when sewn to each other, shall be joined together with overege stitching, Stitch Type 602, 1/4 inch wide overcasting the edge, and Stitch Type 401, 1/2 inch from the edge, forming a seam similar to Seam Type SSa-2. The Stitch Types 602 and 401 may be accomplished simultan

33、eously or individually. The Stitch Type 401 looper thread shall not be visible in the assembled jacket. As an alternate, overedge Stitch Type 504, 505, or 506 may be substituted for Stitch Type 602 and Stitch Type 301 may be substituted for Stitch Type 401. The cut edges; of the lining sections, tha

34、t are not sewn to each other, shall be overedged stitched, individually, with Stitch Type 504, 505, or 506. In the formation of the armhole, shoulder, sleeve outseams, and side seams, of the jacket outershell, the top (outer) ply shall be turned back and stitched down (top stitched) with Stitch Type

35、 301 or 401, i/4 inch from the turned edge, forming Seam Type LSq-2. There shall be 8 to 10 stitches per inch for all the types of stitching. The types of the stitching and seams shall conform to FED-STD-751. Except for the collar closing tab, hanger, and the top edge of the pocket flaps, which are

36、turned under, no cut or raw edges shall be visible. All the seam edges shall be properly forced out and shall not contain any folds. No seam or component shall be twisted, puckered, or pleated and no part of the jacket shall be caught in an unrelated operation or seam. The construction of the jacket

37、 shall not interfere with the movement of the slider. 3.4.3.1 Sewinff - Each row of stitching shall be straight and parallel to the seam edge. The straightness of the stitching, in any row, shall be maintained within a tolerance of plus or minus 1/32 inch. The same tolerance for spacing and parallel

38、ism shall be applicable for the double rows of stitches All the double rows of stitching shall be 3/16 to 1/4 inch apart. The ends of all the Stich Type 301 stitching, that are not caught in other seams or stitching, shall be securely back- stitched, by overlapping on themselves, for at least 1/2 in

39、ch. The thread breaks, skips, and run-Offs shall be overstitched not less than one inch. The thread tension shall be maintained so that there shall not be any loose or tight stitching and the lock shall be embedded in the materials sewn together. All the thread ends shall be trimmed. 3.4.3.2 Attachi

40、ng of the buttons - The pocket buttons shall be sewn through the pocket patch and lining, The buttons, for the collar, shall be sewn through the undercollar and interlining only, The buttons shall be attached either by hand or machine sewing. 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or network

41、ing permitted without license from IHS-,-,-Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-J-7823E 84 777770b 0436470 8 MIL- 5-7823 E(AS) TABLE III (Continued) BACK SLEEVE LO CA TION B REA ST WAIST INSEAM LENGTH INCHES INCHES INCHES INCHES LENGTH

42、 . *1/2 +1, -1/2 +1, -1/4 TOLERANCE +1/2 42 23- 1/2 21- 1/2 22- 1/2 16-3/4 44 24- 1/2 22- 1/2 22-374 17-3/4 46 25- 1/2 23- 1/2 22-7/8 17-3/4 48 26-1/2 24-1/2 23 18-3/4 3,6 Property markings - The flap, which extends down the front of the jacket beneath the slide fastener, shall be perforatedwiththe

43、letters itUSNt, The letters shall be placed in the center, of the width, of the flap, and in the direction of the long axis of the flap. The perforations shall be in the upper portion, of the flap, above the horizontal seam, The letters shall be 1 inch high and 1 inch wide and shall be evenly spaced

44、 so that the total width is approximately 4 inches. The letters WSN“ shall be perforated through both thicknesses of the leather in the flap and so spaced that these perforations shall not propagate a tear in the leather, pull out, or cut any portion of any seam in the facing. 3.7 Label - The identi

45、fication label shall be .centered, witi;)in 1/2 inch, and sewn on a11 the four sides to only the lining, just below the hanger. The label shall conform to MIL-L-15040, Size A. The label shall contain the following informa- tion: JACKET, FLYERS, INTERMEDIATE, TYPE G-1 SIZE MIL- J- 7 8 23 E(A S) CONTR

46、ACTORORDERNUMBER NAME OF MANUFACTURER DATE OF MANUFACTURE (Month and Year) F SN Workmanshie - After completion of the final assembly, the jackets 3.8 shall be thoroughly cleaned and all loose thread, lint, and foreign matter shall be completely removed. The snap fasteners and the metal eyelets and w

47、ashers shall be securely clinched without distortion, cracking, splitting, or cutting of the leather. The smy fastenerstud and socket shall be properly aligned so that, when snapped together shall not cause a noticeable bulge or twist to the inner pocket. The jackets shall not contain any non-specif

48、ied hole, tear, cut, burn, needle chew, spot, stain, or weakening defect. The metal components shall not be misaligned or distorted nor contain any corrosion, scale, pit, dent, nick, burr, sliver, crack, or sharp edge. 9 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without li

49、cense from IHS-,-,-MIL-J-7823E 84 m 777770b 0436473 T MIL-J*7823E(A S) The jackets shall be uniforin in quality and shall be free from irregularities or defects which could adversely affect performance, reliability, or durability. The jackets shall conform to the quality and grade of product established by this speci- fication. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the acceptance criteria estab- lished herein. 4, QUALITY ASSURANCE P