NAVY MIL-DTL-82122 D-1997 JACKET WOMAN-S - EVENING DRESS (OFFICER-S)《女士夜礼服夹克(官员的)》.pdf

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1、I MIL-DTL-82122D 999990b 2059907 543 = MIL-DTL-82122D (MC) 8 October 1997 SUPERSEDING MIL- J-8 2 122C (MC) 20 September 1994 DETAIL SPECIFICATION JACKET, WOMANS - EVENING DRESS (OFFICERS) This specification is approved for use by U.S. Marine Corps, Department of the Navy, and is available for use by

2、 all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1. Scope. This specification covers the requirements for womens evening dress jackets. 1.2. Classification. following sizes as specified (see 6.2): The jacket will be of one type in the Schedule of sizes Short Regular Long 4 6 8

3、10 12 14 16 Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to the Commander (PSE-D), Marine Corps Systems Command, Quantico, VA 22134-5010 by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal

4、 (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. AMSC N/A FSC 8410 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. distribution is unlimited. Approved for public release; Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-flIL-DTL-82122D m 06 2059908 48T m

5、 MIL-DTL-82122D (MC) 1.3. Individual order. When the jacket is custom tailored to an individual order, this specification will govern, except that the detailed requirements of Table I may be modified to the extent necessary for good custom tailoring practices. 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1. General. T

6、he documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this l

7、ist, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed. While 2.2. Government documents. 2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and ha

8、ndbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DoDISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2) . SPECI

9、FICATIONS FEDERAL A-A-50 O 67 - A-A-50 196 - A-A- 52 07 1 - A-A- 5 2 O 94 A-A-52 105 - - A-A-52 10 6 - DDD-L-20 - Cloth, Flannel, Wool Thread, Silk Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose (Unbleached, Bleached, or Dyed) Thread, Cotton Cloth, Interlining, Cotton or Synthetic Warp, and Spun Hair-Wool o

10、n Rayon Filling Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and Polyester Blend Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Use) DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE MIL-C-368 - Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cloth, Twill, Rayon MIL-B-371 - Braid, Textile, Tubular MIL-DTL-3461 - Button, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Ca

11、p 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-e MIL-DTL-82L22D 9999906 2059909 31ib = MIL-DTL-82122D (MC) MIL-P-15064 - Pads, Shoulder and Sleeve-Head MIL-C-16375 - Cloth, Wigan, Cotton MIL-C-21115 - Cloth, Tropical: Wool, Polyester/Wool MIL-DT

12、L-82112 - Ornamentation - For Uniform, Womans; Evening Dress; Officers STAN DARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-191 - Textile Test Methods FED-STD-751 - Stitches, Seams and Stitchings (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of the above specifications, standards, handbooks are available from the Standardization Docum

13、ent Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.) 2.3. Non-Government Publications. The following document(s) form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DoD adopted are those listed in the issue

14、 of the DoDISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DoDISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). Unless ANSI/ASQC 21.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes (Application for copies shou

15、ld be addressed to The American National Standards Institute, 11 West 42nd Street, New York, NY 10036) Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968 (Application for copies should be addressed to the Color Association of the United States, In

16、c., 409 W. 44th Street, New York, NY 10016-0927. ) 2.4. Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has b

17、een obtained. Nothing in this document, 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-DTL-82122D 999990b 2059910 O38 MIL-DTL- 8 2 122 D (MC) 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1. Standard sample. Standard samples are furnished solely for guidance and informa

18、tion to the contractor (see 6.3). Variation from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case the specification shall govern. 3.2. First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.3. 3.3. Materials. 3.3.1 Basic materi

19、al. The basic material (except top and under collar) shall be cloth, tropical, polyester/wool blend, black, shade 2607 (see 6.3), 8.5 to 9.5 ounces, conforming to type III, class 1 of MIL-C-21115. 3.3.2 Top collar material. The material for the top collar shall be cloth, tropical, wool, scarlet, sha

20、de 2502 (see 6.3), 10.5 ounces, conforming to type I, class 1 of MIL-C-21115. 3.3.3 Lininq. The material for lining the jacket and for the top and bottom ply of underarm shields shall be cloth, twill, rayon, black, shade 2604 (see 6.3), 3.7 ounces, conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-368. 3.3.4 Polyester

21、 and cotton. The material for making the pocket stays for armhole and shoulder seams shall be cloth, twill or plain weave, polyester or polyester blend, black, conforming to class 2 of A-A-52106. 3.3.5 Under collar material. The under collar material shall be cloth, flannel, wool, conforming to A-A-

22、50067. The material shall be dyed black to approximately match the shade of the cloth, tropical wool specified in 3.3.1, and shall show good colorfastness to wet (dry) cleaning, perspiration, and crocking. 3.3.6 Collar interlininq. The material for interlining the collar shall be cloth, cotton warp

23、and spun hairwool filling, natural color conforming to type I of A-A-52105. 3.3.7 Interlinins for jacket fronts. The material for interlining the jacket fronts shall be cloth, cotton warp, spun hairwool filling, plain weave, conforming to type I of A-A-52105. 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reprod

24、uction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-DTL-82122D 999990b 2059911 T74 W MIL-DTL-82122D (MC) 3.3.8 Shoulder pads. The shoulder pads shall conform to type III, class 2 of MIL-P-15064. 3.3.9 Sleeve-head waddinu. The sleeve-head wadding shall conform to type IV of MIL-P-15064.

25、3.3.10 Hanuer braid. rayon tubular flat braid 1/8 to 3/16 inch wide, minimum breaking strength to 50 pounds, color black, conforming to type IX, ciass The braid for the hanger shall be cotton or 1 of MIL-B-371. 3.3.11 Tape, 3/8 inch. The tape for the armholes, front edges and bridle tape shall be 3/

26、8 inch wide cotton, unbleached or bleached white, conforming to type II, class 1 or class 2 of A-A-52071. 3.3.12 Wiqan. The material for reinforcing the bottom edge of the sleeve shall be cloth, wigan, cotton, 2.5 ounces, conforming to type I of MIL-C-16375. 3.3.13 Thread. 3.3.13.1.Silk thread. The

27、silk thread shall conform to A-A-50196. I, ticket No. A, 3-ply for all outside seaming and stitching, and ticket No. O, 3-ply for machine felling. The thread for hand sewing shall be type III, ticket No. C, 2-ply. The thread for machine sewing shall conform to type 3.3.13.2.Cotton thread. The cotton

28、 thread shall conform to A-A-52094, type III, mercerized finish, ticket No. A, 3-ply for all inside seaming and stitching; type II, glazed finish, ticket No. 16, 4-ply for sewing on buttons. Soft finish cotton thread, type I, ticket No. 70, 2-ply shall be used for seaming and stitching the interlini

29、ng for the coat fronts and ticket No. 30, 3-ply shall be used for machine tacking of the armholes. thread for basting shall be a good commercial grade. The 3.3.13.3.Color and colorfastness. The thread shall be black, cable No. 66043, except cotton thread for basting and for machine tacking armholes

30、may be white. The thread for making the eyelets on collar shall be scarlet, shade W, cable No. 66040. The colored threads, when tested as specified in the applicable thread specification, shall show good colorfastness to wet (dry) cleaning. In addition, the silk thread shall show good 5 Provided by

31、IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-82322D = 999990b 2059932 900 MIL-DTL- 8 2 12 2 D (MC) colorfastness to light (see DoD Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968). 3.3.14 Buttons. 3.3.14.1.Insisnia button.

32、The insignia button for fronts, shoulder straps and ornamental sleeve patches shall be metal, gold plated, officer design, 27-line, conforming to type I, style 3, class A, sub-class 1 of MIL-DTL-3461. 3.3.14.2.Rinq toqqles. Ring toggles for securing buttons to ornamental sleeve patches shall conform

33、 to MIL-DTL-3461. 3.3.15 Labels. Each jacket shall have a combination instruction/ identification label and a size label conforming to DDD-L-20 and the following. Colorfastness for a dry cleaning shall apply. 3.3.15.1.Combination instruction/identification label. The combination instruction/identifi

34、cation label shall conform to type VI, classes 1 and 10 (combined), of DDD-L-20 except all printing and the space between the lines of printing shall be minimum 10 point (approximately 1/8 inch). The content and format shall be as follows: Name : Service number: Nomenclature: (item description) Cont

35、ract number: Name of contractor: Wool Products Act information: 3.3.15.2.Size label. The size label shall conform to type VI, class 2 of DDD-L-20. The label shall consist of the numerical size designation specified in 1.2 followed by the letters S, or L for Short, Regular and Long as shown in the fo

36、llowing example : R, 14R 3.3.16 Sleeve patches. The sleeve patches shall be fabricated in accordance with MIL-DTL-82112. Sleeve patches shall be prefabricated with ornamentation for general, company and field grade officers, and may be obtained either finished or unfinished, with or without buttons

37、attached. Sleeve patches for b Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-DTL-82222D 999990b 2059933 847 PATTERN NOMENCLATURE MIL-DTL-82122D (MC) NO. OF CUT PARTS general, company and field grade officers are illustrated in Figure 1. Front

38、Side front Side back Back Top sleeve Shoulder straps 3.3.17 Collar ornamentation. the top ply of collar shall be fabricated in accordance with MIL-DTL-82112. The unfinished collar may be furnished prefabricated with ornamentation. The collar ornamentation is illustrated in Figure 2. The collar ornam

39、entation design for 2 2 2 1 2 2 2 4 3.4. Desiqn. The jacket shall be the Marine Corps design shown in Figures 1 through 3, a semi-formfitting, fully-lined jacket, designed to be worn open, with two buttons on each front, a front and side front; three-piece back; two-piece sleeves with sleeve ornamen

40、tation patch attached; roll collar with ornamentation; worked eyelets; notched collar and lapels; shoulder straps; and an inside pocket on the right side. 3.5. Patterns. The standard patterns furnished by the Government shall not be altered in any manner and shall be used only as a guide for cutting

41、 working patterns. provide 3/16 inch allowance for seams at the edges of lapels, front edges of jacket, and for shoulder straps; 3/4 inch allowance for side seams; and 3/8 inch for all other seams. These patterns show size, seam allowances, and warp directional lines for cutting. placement and assem

42、bly of component parts. The standard patterns They are marked or notched for proper 3.5.1 List of pattern parts. Jackets shall be cut from the specified materials in accordance with the pattern parts indicated below: F II I 8 I IMaterial: Cloth, wool, tropical I 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo rep

43、roduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-I ITEM Top collar I 9 1 I- Front Back Side back Top sleeve Under sleeve Underarm shield 26 2 1 2 2 2 4 MIL-DTL-82L22D D 9999906 205991iY 783 = MIL-DTL-82122D (MC) Front Side front Collar interlining PATTERN NOMENCLATURE I NO. OF CUT PART

44、S 2 2 2 Under collar 2 3.6. Construction. Reinforcement (bottom edge of sleeve) 3.6.1 Manufacturinq requirements. The jackets shall be manufactured in accordance with the operations and the stitch, seam, and stitching types specified in Table I. The contractor is not required to follow the exact seq

45、uence of operations as listed in Table I, but all operations specified shall be used to manufacture the jackets. 2 Pocket, inside 8 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-DTL-82L22D m 999970b 2059935 b3T m MIL-DTL-8 2 122D (MC) NO 1 3

46、.6.1.1. Stitches, seams and stitchinqs. The stitch, seam, and stitching types specified in Table I shall conform to FED-STD-751. The number of stitches per inch, as specified in Table I, indicates the minimum and maximum number permitted. OPERAT I ON Cutting. a. Cut jackets in strict accordance with

47、 the pattern furnished by the Government. b. Cut parts in the warp direction indicated by directional lines on the pat tern. c. Cut all wool parts from one piece of basic material, except under ply of shoulder straps, which may be cut from ends. d. The top collar shall be cut from the material speci

48、fied in 3.3.2. 3.6.1.2. End of seams and stitchinq. Ends of seams and stitching, except ends of a continuous line of stitching produced with 301 stitch type, when not caught in other seams or stitchings, shall be backtacked not less than 1/4 inch. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured ba

49、ck of the break, and ends of a continuous line of stitching shall overlap not less than 1/2 inch. 3.6.2 Shade markinq. one piece of basic and lining materials, including pairs of sleeve lining when cut from ends, shall be marked to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. Parts cut from ends that are sized shall be identified for size. The use of tickets with metal fasten