NAVY MIL-DTL-82114 C-1997 COAT FRONT - FOR COATS MUSICIANS《音乐家外套》.pdf

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1、 MIL-DTL-82LL4C m 9999906 20557Lb 025 m I INCH-POUND I MIL-DTL-8 2 11 4C (MC) 9 October 1997 SUPERSEDING MIL-C-82114B (MC) 16 December 1994 DETAIL SPECIFICATION COAT FRONT - FOR COATS, MUSICIANS This specification is approved for use by U.S. Marine Corps, Department of the Navy, and is available for

2、 use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1. Scope. This specification covers requirements for coat fronts designed to be used.in the manufacture of coats worn by U.S. Marine Corps musicians. 1.2. Classification. Coat fronts will be of one type and will be furnish

3、ed in the following classes and sizes (see 6.2). Class 1 - For Coat, Mans, Musicians Class 2 - For Coat, Womans, Dress Blue (Ceremonial) Class 3 - For Coat, Womans, Full Dress (Musicians) Class 4 - For Jacket, Womans, Full Dress and Jacket, Womans Special Full Dress (Musicians) Beneficial comments (

4、recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to the Commander (PSE-D), Marine Corps Systems Command, Quantico, VA 22134-5010 by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the

5、end of this document or by letter. AMSC N/A FSC 8315 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-DTL-BZLL4C 99Ob 2055737 Tb3 MIL-DTL-82114C (MC) Schedule of si

6、zes (Short, Reqular, Lonq, Extra Lonq) Mens 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 44 46 Women s XO 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1. General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other se

7、ctions of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whet

8、her or not they are listed: 2.2. Government documents. 2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the

9、 issue of the Department, of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DoDISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2) . SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL A-A-50 12 9 A-A-520 94 A-A-52 105 A-A- 52 10 6 C-F-206 DDD-L-20 Cloth, Flannel, Lightweight Thread, Cotton Cloth, Interlining, Cott

10、on or Synthetic Warp, and Spun Hair-Wool or Rayon Filling Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and Polyester Blend Felt Sheet: Cloth, Felt, Wool, Pressed Labels: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Use) 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license

11、 from IHS-,-,- MIL-DTL-82LL4C W 999Ob 20557L 9TB MIL-DTL-82114C(MC) STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-191 - Textile Test Methods FED-STD-751 - Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of the above specifications, standards, handbooks are available from the Standardization Document

12、 Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094. ) 2.3. Non-Government publications. The following document(s) form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DoD adopted are those listed in the issue o

13、f the DoDISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DoDISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). Unless ANSI/ASQC 21.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes (Application for copies should

14、 be addressed to the American National Standards Institute, Inc., 11 West 42nd Street, New York, NY 10036.) 2.4. Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. however, supersedes applicab

15、le laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. Nothing in this document, 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1. Standard sample. Standard samples are furnished solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variation from this specification may appear in the sample, in which

16、case the specification shall govern. 3.2. First article. When specified (see 6.21, a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.3. 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- _ MIL-DTL-82334C 999990b 2055739 834

17、 MIL-DTL-82114C (MC) 3.3. Materials. 3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material for coat fronts shall be cotton warp and spun hair-wool filling interlining cloth conforming to type I of A-A-52105. 3.3.2 Haircloth. The chest piece and the reinforcement piece for the top front corner of the left and rig

18、ht coat fronts shall be haircloth made with natural color, 2-ply cotton yarn in the warp and natural horsehair in the filling. The finished cloth shall have a minimum thread count of 60 per inch in the warp and 40 per inch in the filling, shall weigh not less than 4.5 ounces per square yard, and sha

19、ll contain not more than 1.0 percent of non-fibrous material. The horsehair shall meet current quarantine laws and pertinent regulations of the U.S. Department of Agriculture as set forth in the Code of Federal Regulations. 3.3.3 Paddinq. The padding shall be flannel or felt conforming to the follow

20、ing. 3.3.3.1. Flannel. The material shall be cloth, cotton flannel, unbleached, double napped, conforming to A-A-50129. 3.3.3.2. Felt. The felt shall be pressed wool conforming to the requirements for type III (roll felt), classification llA2, 3.5 ounce of C-F-206. 3.3.4 Polvester twill. The pieces

21、to cover the exposed bottom edge of the haircloth chest piece and to cover the haircloth reinforcement piece at the top front corner of coat fronts and front edge of chest piece (see Figure 1) shall be cloth, twill, polyester and cotton, 2.9 ounce, lightweight conforming to class 2 of A-A-52106, in

22、natural shade. 3.3.5 Thread. The thread shall be cotton, soft finish, unbleached or white, ticket No. 70, 2-ply conforming to type I of A-A-52094. 3.3.6 Labels. Each coat front shall have an identification label (applicable only when coat fronts are purchased directly by the Government), and a size

23、marking conforming to the requirements of DDD-L-20. The label shall show fastness to dry cleaning. 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-DTL-82LL4C W 9999906 2055720 556 W MIL-DTL-82114C (MC) 3.3.6.1. Identification. The identificati

24、on label shall conform to type IV, class 1 of DDD-L-20, except that the characters of the inscription shall be not less than 1/4 inch in height, and shall be applied directly above the size label. 3.3.6.2. Size. The size label shall conform to type IV, class 2 of DDD-L-20, except that the characters

25、 of the inscription shall not be less than 1/2 inch in height and shall be applied to the bottom end of each front. The size marking shall include the numerical designation followed by S for Short, R for Regular, L for Long, and XL for Extra Long. Each coat front shall be marked to indicate the left

26、 front and the right front preceding the size designation with the letters LT for left and RT.for right as shown in the following examples: LT 37-38-39R RT 37-38-39L 3.4. Desiqn. The coat fronts shall be as shown in Figures 1 through 4. Classes 1, 2, 3 and 4 are designed for coats with stand-up coll

27、ars worn by the U.S. Marine Corps Band, and Drum and Bugle Corps and Ceremonial personnel. 3.5. Patterns. contractor by the Government. The standard patterns shall not be altered in any way and shall be used only as a guide for cutting the contractors working patterns. patterns shall be identical to

28、 the standard patterns. Standard patterns show size and directional lines for cutting, and are marked or notched for proper placement and assembly of component parts. Standard patterns will be furnished to the The contractors working 3.5.1 List of pattern parts. The coat fronts shall be cut from the

29、 specified materials in accordance with the number of pattern parts indicated. 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-82334C m 9999906 2055723 492 ITEM PATTERN NOMENCLATURE 1 NO. OF CUT PARTS I Body part Shoulder dart stay Waist da

30、rt stay r- 4 2 2 2 t“ Chest piece Top front corner reinforcement I 2 2 16 Chest padding 2 (Material: Cloth, twill, polyester/cotton 7 8 1 Top front corner reinforcement and 2 Chest piece bottom edge covering chest piece front edge covering 2 3.6. Construction. 3.6.1 Manufacturinq requirements. The c

31、oat fronts shall be manufactured in accordance with the operations and the stitch type specified in Table I. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations as listed in Table I but all operations specified shall be used to manufacture the coat fronts. 3.6.1.1. Stitches and

32、 stitchinqs. The stitch type specified in Table I shall conform to FED-STD-751. inch as specified in Table I indicates the minimum and maximum number permitted . The number of stitches per 3.6.1.2. Pressinq. Steam shrinkage and dry pressing operations specified in Table III shall be performed on ste

33、am pressing machines shaped for right and left fronts. 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- _ MIL-DTL-82LL4C 0b 2055722 329 MIL-DTL-82114C (MC) TABLE I. Manufacturinq requirements. NO 1 - 2 3 OPERATION uttinq. . Cut coat fronts in stric

34、t ccordance with patterns furnished. . Cut the material in the irections indicated by directional ines on pattern. .eplacement of damaued parts. . Replace at time of cutting any )art containing damages, such as roles or seriously weakening defects, uch as smashes, multiple floats, and Jubs likely to

35、 develop into holes. ). Replace any part damaged during .he manufacturing process by needle :hews which may be expected to levelop into a hole, scissors or mife cuts, tears, holes, mends, )urns and large exposed drill holes. lake coat fronts. i. Abut or overlap (1/8 inch) the sdges of the shoulder a

36、nd waist darts )n the front sections and stitch :ogether through the polyester/cotton iart stay. Che abutted or overlapped edges may )e stitched together prior to stitching through stay. . Abut or overlap (1/8 inch) the 2dges of the shoulder and waist darts )n the chest piece and stitch zogether . :

37、. Position the haircloth reinforce- nent piece at the top front corner of the coat front on the inner side of the body sections. Place the chest piece on top of the haircloth reinforcement; place the padding and the polyester/cotton covering for the front edge on top of the chest piece. Wilt all par

38、ts together with vertical rows of stitching 3/8 to 3/4 inch apart, and with curved rows toward the armhole, and the shoulder portion shall be left open to accommodate the shoulder pads. STCH TYPE 304 304 304 SEAM/ STCH TYPE FSa-1 or LSa-1 FSa-1 or LSa-1 FSa-1 or LSa-1 ICH/IN 4-8 4-8 4-8 NDL 70/2 70/

39、2 70/2 BOB/ LPR 70/2 70/2 70/2 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- NO 3 - 4 - SEAM/ STCH TYPE FSa- 1 or LSa-1 MIL-DTL-LLC m 9999906 2055723 265 m MIL-DTL-82114C (MC) STCH/IN 4-8 TABLE I. Manufacturinq requirements - Continued. OPERAT I

40、ON Make coat fronts. (contd) ci. Place the polyester/cotton covering over bottom edge of chest piece and stitch both edges of cover to fronts. e. to conform to shape of body. f. Pair one right front with one left front of the same size. Labels. a. Each finished coat front shall have the identificati

41、on and size labels applied as indicated (see 3.3.6) on the respective figures. Steam shrink fronts and press dry STCH TYPE 304 NDL 70/2 BOB/ LPR 70/2 3.7. Workmanship. The coat front shall conform to the quality and grade of product established by this specification. 3.8. Recycled, recovered, or env

42、ironmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and. maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs. 4. VERIFIC

43、ATION 4.1. Classification of inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows: a. First article inspection (see 4.3). b. Conformance inspection (see 4.4). 4.2. Inspection conditions. Unless otherwise specified, all inspections shall be performed in accordance with t

44、he provisions set forth in ANSI/ASQC 21.4. 8 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-82LL4C 9999906 2055724 LTL MIL-DTL-82114C (MC) 4.3. First article inspection. When first article is required, inspection shall be made of a completel

45、y fabricated coat front for conformance to all provisions of this specification. 4.4. Conformance inspection. 4.4.1 Testinq of components. Testing of components shall be made in accordance with subsidiary specifications and standards to the extent applicable, except that this specification shall gov

46、ern in the event of conflict. In addition to testing provisions contained in subsidiary specifications and standards, testing shall be performed on components in Table II for characteristics noted. When the data in the “Determinations per sample unit“ and the “Results reported as“ columns are not sp

47、ecified in Table II, they shall be as required by the referenced test method. The method of testing shall be as specified in FED-STD-191, wherever applicable. 4.4.1.1. Samplinq for testinq. Unless otherwise specified in subsidiary specifications, sampling shall be in accordance with the following. T

48、he lot shall be unacceptable if one or more sample units fail to meet any test requirements specified. The sample unit for testing the haircloth shall be 1 yard full width. The sample size shall be as follows: Lot size Sample size 800 or less 801 to 22,000 inclusive 22,001 and over 2 3 5 9 Provided

49、by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-BZLL4C 999990b 2055725 038 MIL-DTL-82114C (MC) Reqmt. para. 3.3.2 3.3.2 3.3.2 3.3.2 TABLE III. Test methods. Test No. det. method per S/unit 1200 1 Std com 1 Visual 1 5050 I 3.3.2 Components iaircloth 2611 Characteristics Mat er i al iden