NAVY MIL-C-87010 D-1991 COAT WOMAN-S DRESS (COAST GUARD)《女式制服外套(海岸巡逻队队员)》.pdf

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1、MIL-C-87OIOD(CG) 10 September 1991 SUPERSEDING 26 January 1989 MIL-C-87010C(CG) MILITARY SPECIFICATION COAT, wDMANrS, DRESS, (COAST GUARD) 2- This specification is approved for use by the United States Coast Guard, Department of Transportation, and is available for use by all Department and Agencies

2、 of the Department of Defense. ci: 1. SCOPE 1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for a polyester and wool dress coat. 1.2 Classification. The coats shall be of one type in the following sizes and lengths (see 6.2): 1.2.1 Sizes. 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 18, 20, and 22.

3、 1.2.2 Lengths. Short, regular and long. 2. APPLICABLE DOCUEIENTS 2.1 Government documents. 2.1.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of th

4、ese documents shall be those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improvin

5、g this document should be addressed to: Officer in Charge, Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, P. O. Box, Natick, MA 01760-0001 by using the self-addressed Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. I WC N/A FSC 8410 DIST

6、RIBUTION STA- A. Approved for public release, distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-87010D 84 W 999990b 0488600 2 W SPEC1 FICATIONS FEDERAL V-T-280 V-T-295 V-T-301 CCC-C-438 DDD-L-20 DDD-T-86 MILITARY MIL-C-

7、368 MIL-B-371 MIL-C-823 MIL-B-3461 MIL-C-15062 MIL-P-15064 MIL-C-15065 MIL-C-16375 MIL-C-29137 MIL-T-43548 MIL-C-43718 STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-191 FED-STD-7 51 MILITARY MIL-STD-105 MI L-STD-129 MIL-STD-2073-1 MIL-STD-2073-2 - Thread, Cotton Gimp, Buttonhole - Thread, Nylon - Thread, Silk - Cloth,

8、Buckram, Woven and Non-Wdven - Label; For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Use) - Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose (Unbleached, Bleached, or Dyed) - Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cloth, Twill, Rayon - Braid, Textile Tubular - Cloth, Serge; Wool, Wool and Nylon, Polyester and - Buttons, Insig

9、nia, Metal, Uniform and Cap - Cloth, Flannel, Wool, Undercollar Cloth - Pads, Shoulder and Sleeve Head - Coat Fronts - Cloth, Wigan, Cotton - Cloth, Felt-Fabric Composite, Undercollar - Thread, Polyester Core: Cotton-, Rayon-, or Polyester-Covered - Cloth, Polyester; Polyester and Cotton; Polyester

10、and Rayon for Pockets - Cloth, Twill, Polyester - Container, Shipping and Storage Coat (Hanger Pack) Wool - Textile Test Methods - Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by - Marking for Shipment and Storage - DD Materials Procedures for Development and - Pac

11、kaging Requirement Codes Attributes Applications of Packaging Requirements 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- - MIL-C-87OLOD 84 m 9997906 0488bOL 4 m 5 ,. (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of federal and military specification, stan

12、dards, and handbooks are available from the Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg 4D, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.) 2.2 Non-Government publications. The following document(s) form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the is

13、sue of documents which are DoD adopted shall be those listed in the issue of the DODISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DODISS are the issue of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). THE COLOR ASSOCIATION OF THE UNITED STAT

14、JIS + Department of Defense Standard Shades for Sewing Threads 4 L (Application for copies of color cards should be addressed to the Color I Association of the U.S., 343 Lexington Avenue, New York, Ny 10016-0927). “NICAL MANUAL OF THE AMESICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CMEMISTS AND COLORISTS , I AATCC

15、Photographic Comparative Rating of Single and Double Needle Seams (Method 888, Two photos) (Application of copies should be addressed to the AATCC National Headquarters, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709-2215). (Non-Government standards and other publications are normally available fr

16、om the organizations that prepare or distribute the documents. These documents also may be available in or through libraries or other informational services.) . 2.3 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this doc

17、ument takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. . 3. REQuItExaNTS 3.1 Tide samgle. Samples, when furnished, are solely for guidance and information to e contractor (see 6.3). Variations from this spe

18、cification may appear in the sample in which case this specification shall govern. 3.2 First article. When specified, the contractor shall furnish sample unit(s) for first article inspection and approval (see 4.3 and 6.2). 3.3 Materials. 3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material for the coat shall be

19、 a 11.3 The ounce polyestermo serge conforming to type III, class 3 of MIL-(2-823. color shall be shade Blue 3362 and the piece number shall be 80353. 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-70LOD 4 m 9999906 0488602 b m 3.3.2 Linin .

20、 The material for lining the coat, pockets and sleeves shall be rayondng, 3.7 ounce, shade Blue 3351, conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-368. The piece number for the standard sample is 1533. As an alternate, the lining material may be a polyester twill cloth, Blue 3351, conforming to MIL-C-44121. The m

21、aterial for the collar interlining shall be cotton buckram, natural or bleached, conforming to type I, class 2 of CCC-C-438, except that the test for shrinkage shall be in accordance with test method 5580 of FED-STD-191 and the minimum stiffness requirement (inch pounds) shall be 0.015 in the fillin

22、g. 3.3.4 Pocket reinforcement. The material for reinforcing the front pocket flaps ana inside pockets shall be cloth, twill, polyester and cotton conforming to type I of MIL-C-43718. 3.3.5 Undercollar cloth. The undercollar material shall be wool flannel conforming to MIL-C-15062 with an interlining

23、 of cotton buckram conforming to CCC-C-438, or a felt/fabric composite conforming to MIL-C-29137. The shade shall be black or a blue shade approximating the shade of the basic material and requirements for perspiration and crocking shall not apply. When felt/fabric composite is used the cotton buckr

24、am interlining is not required. 3.3.3 Collar interlining. The color shall be black. 3.3.6 Wi an. The material interlining the sleeve bottoms shall be cotton 3.3.7 Han er loo . The hanger loop for the coat shall be cotton tubular specified in 3.3.2. The braid shall be black or shall match the lining

25、or basic material and shall show good fastness to wet-dry cleaning and a crocking not lower than 3.0 when tested as specified in 4.4.1. 3.3.8 Coat front interlinings. The coat front interlinings shall conform to type XXI Of MIL-C-lSOGS . The interlinings shall be dyed black. 3.3.9 Shoulder and sleev

26、e-head pads, The shoulder pads shall conform to type III, class 1 and the sleeve-head pads shall conform to type IV of wigan, 2. + ounce, natural shade, conforming to type I of MIL-C-16375. braid con rg,-p orming to type III, class 1 of MIL-B-371 or shall be of the material MIL-P-15064. 3.3.10 Tapes

27、. 3.3.10.1 Woven ta . The tape shall be cotton, preshrunk, conforming to class 1 or 2 -aT-rF an s a be of the following types and widths of DDD-T-86: Type I - 5/8 inch wide stay tape for bridle at breakline of lapel Type II - 3/16 inch wide stay tape for front neck gorge, back armhole and 3.3.10.2 B

28、ias-cut. The stay tape for the shoulders, back neck, lapel, coat front, front and bottom edges and upper part of the front armhole shall be bias cut, 3/4 inch in width, twill cloth dyed or undyed, conforming to class 1 lower part of front armhole of MIL-C-43718. 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo rep

29、roduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-L I I 1 I l l I l I 1 I I I I I A MIL-C-87OlOD(CG) 3.3.10.3 Tape, fusible. The tape for joining the front and facing shall be woven or non-woven, natural color, with a thermoplastic polyamide resin applied to the tape. The tape shall be

30、5/8 inch in width. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.1. 3.3.11 Threads. 3.3.11.1 Thread, polyester core, covered. The polyester core, covered thread used for seaming and stitching shall be Ticket Nos. 50 and 70, 2 or 3 ply and Ticket No. 50, 2 or 3 ply for buttons and buttonholes conforming to MI

31、L-T-43548. The color shall be Black AA, C.A. 66043 in accordance with WD Standard Shade for Sewing Threads. The polyester core, polyester covered thread is not allowed. 3.3.11.2 Bastin thread. The thread for basting and tacking shall be a good commercia * gra e cotton, bleached or unbleached. A mono

32、filament synthetic thread may be used for only those basting noperations where the thread is required to be removed provided the garment is subsequently given a treatment by a cleaning agent in which the synthetic thread is soluble. When this thread is used, any residue remaining on the garment afte

33、r the dry cleaning process shall be brushed off or removed. 3.3.11.3 Silk thread. The silk thread for machine stitching shall conform to type I, Ticket No. O, 3-ply and for machine or hand felling shall conform to type III, Ticket Nos. A and C, 2-ply of V-T-301. The color shall be dyed Black AA, C.A

34、. 66043 in accordance with DD Standard Shade for Sewing Threads. 3.3.11.3.1 Silk thread alternates. The following nylon thread may be utilized as alternates for the operations indicated below: a. * b. c. For machine blind stitching and felling - nylon thread conforming to Forhand felling - nylon thr

35、ead conforming to type IV, size A/2 or For padding lapels and collars - nylon thread conforming to type III, typ III, size A/1 or AA/1 of V-T-295. C/2 of V-T-295. size O00 of V-T-295. 3.3.11.4 Colorfastness. The dyed thread shall show colorfastness to wet-dry cleaning and light equal to or better th

36、an the standard sample when tested as specified in V-T-295, V-T-301 or MIL-T-43548. As a limit of acceptability, or when no standard is available, the dyed thread shall show a minimum of llgoodll colorfastness to wet-dry cleaning and light when tested as specified in v-T-295, V-T-301 or MIL-T-43548.

37、 3.3.12 Giq. The gimp for reinforcing the buttonhole shall be dyed Shade Black AA, CA. 66043 conforming to DD Standard Shade for Sewing Threads and shall conform to typ I or type II, size No. 8 of V-T-280. 3.3.12.1 Colorfastness. The dyed gimp shall show fastness to wet-dry cleaning equal to or bett

38、er than the standard sample when tested as specified in V-T-280. As a limit of acceptability, or when no standard sample is available, the dyed gimp shall show a minimum of iigoodl fastness to wet-ry cleaning when tested as specified in V-T-280. 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or netw

39、orking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-3.3.13 Buttons, insignia, metal. The buttons for the coat front and belt shall be type I, style 5, class A, 28-line, conforming to MIL-B-3461. The buttons for the flaps shall be 22-line conforming to the above. The buttons for the belt and flaps shall be

40、 furnished with 15/16 inch long bodkin toggles. 3.4 Label. Each coat shall have a combination personal/size/identification- /instruction label conforming to typ VII classes 10 and 14 of DDD-L-20. The printing shall show fastness to dry cleaning and shall bear the following inscription: NAME: SERVICE

41、 No: COAT, WOEIA“S, DRESS (CG) FIBER CONTENT: POLYESTER (55%) AND FKXIL (45%) CONTRACT NO: DU-100-00-O-0000 (EXAMPLE) STOCK No: 8410-00-000-0000 (EXAMPLE) SIZE: 14 R (EXAMPLE) NAME OF CONTRACTOR: NAME OF MANWACTRER: (If other than contractor) DRY CLEAN ONLY NOTE: The length (Short, Regular, or Long)

42、 may be abbreviated as S, R or L. 3.4.1 Size ticket. A comercial type size ticket shall be attached on the outside of the right front sleeve 2 to 3 inches from the bottom edge. The ticket shall be tacked on four corners by machine or hand (6 to 8 stitches per tack by machine or 2 to 4 stitches per t

43、ack by hand). The corners my be double perforated for ease in tacking. The ticket shall be made of suitable commercial cardboard and shall be legibly printed with the following information: Size - 12 Regular (Example) The lengths may be abbreviated as stated above. 3.5 Desi . The coat shall be of co

44、nventional length, fully lined, princess two outside pocket flaps, shawl collar, set-in sleeves, two button waist belt and two horizontal inside pockets (see Figure 1). style, -5 sing e breasted with a four 28-line Coast Guard button closure, with 3.5.1 Fiyres. Figure 1 and 2 are furnished for infor

45、mation purposes only. Any inconsistencies between the specification and the figures, the specification shall govern. 3.6 Patterns. Standard patterns will be furnished by the Government to the contractor tor use in cutting working patterns (see 6.3). The patterns allow 5/8 inch for all seams except a

46、s otherwise indicated in Table I. The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns. Ne i the r the Government patterns nor the working patterns shall be altered in any way, except that additional notches for use during construction are permitted on the working patterns. Minor modif

47、ications are permitted where necessary when using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the appearance, serviceability, or dimensional requirements cited in the specification. 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C

48、-87OLOD 84 W 999990b 0488605 L W 3.6.1 List of pattern parts. The component parts of coat shall be cut from the materials as specified and in accordance with the number of parts required for the manufacturing process as follows: List of Pattern Parts Material Nomenclature of pattern parts Cut Parts

49、Cloth, Basic Front 2 Mate rial Side Back 2 Back (Center) 2 Facing (Front) 2 Top sleeve 2 under sleeve 2 Pocket flaps .4 Belt a Pocket facing (inside) 2 Inside lower pocket welt facing 2 Lining Front Side back Back (center) Top sleeve Under sleeve Pocket Cloth, FeltBabric Flannel and Cloth Buckram, Cotton - 1/ Undercollar Composite or cloth, wool Cloth, wigan Template Top sleeve ndersleeve Lapel/Collar finished shaper mpel shaper Undercollar stand