NAVY MIL-C-29381 C-1990 COAT ALL-WEATHER WOMEN-S《女士全天候外衣》.pdf

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1、INCH-FOUND MIL-29381C O SEPTEMBER 1990 SUPERSEDING MIL-293 81 B 29 December MILITARY SPECIEICA!CIcN MC) 988 This specification is approved for use by U. S. Marine Corps, Department of the Navy, and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1.1 Scope. This spe

2、cification mers the requirement for a mans all-weather coat . 1.2 Classification. The all-ather coats shall be one type in the following classes and sizes, as specified (see 6.2). Class. Class 1 - Marine Curps Pewter 2246 Class 2 - Marine Corps Blue 2324 Cl- 3 - AIRY Blctck 385 I - Sizes. - Short (S

3、I Reqular (R) Long (L) 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 4 6 8 10 12 14 16- 18 20 22 Beneficial comnents (recomnendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of me in improving this document should be addressed tn the Corranand- ing General (PSE-C), Marine Cor

4、ps Research, Develqent and Acquisition Conunand, Washington, D. C. 20380-0001, by using the self-addressed Standardization Document improvement Proposal (Di3 Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. - , AMSC-N/A . - FSC 8410 Distribution Statement A. Approvd for public release;

5、 distribution is unlimit- ed. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-2938LC 84 m 7999706 0449q96 3 m MIL-29381C 2. APPLICABIE mms 2.1 Government documents 2.1.1 Specifications standards. The following specifications and standards form

6、a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless other- wise specified, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) md supplement thereto, cited in the solicitatiori (see 6.2). SPECIFI

7、CATION FEDERAL A-A-203 A-A-50 083 A-A-501 98 A-A-50 1 99 V-B-8 7 1 V-F-106 V-T -2 76 DDD-L-20 PPP-F-320 MILITARY MIL-B-3 7 1 MIL*-1 860 MIL4-3530 ME-P-15011 MIL+3-17757 MIL-21852 MIL-C-29363 MIL-L-35078 MIL-C-43525 MIL-43718 MIL-C-44192 MIL-C-44296 FED-STD-191 FEESlD-75 1 MILITARY MIL-STD-105 MIL-ST

8、D-129 - Paper, Kraft, Untreated - BXj, Plastic Folded Garment - Thread, Gillp, Cotton, Buttonhole -Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester Covered - Button, Sewing ole, and Button, Staple, (Plastic) - Fasteners, Slide, Interlocking - Thread, Cotton - Label: for Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (G

9、eneral Use) - Fiberboard: Corrugated and Solid, Sheet St,ock (Container Grafie), and Cut Shapes - Braid, Textile, Tubular , _ - Buckle, Slide, Plastic -Thread and Twine Mildew Resistant or Water Repellant Treated - Pallet Material Handling, wood Post Construction 4 Way Ehtry - Box, Shipping, Fiberbo

10、ard (Modular Sizes) - Cloth, Taffeta, Nylon - Cloth, Poplin, Polyester and Cotton (Water Repellent) - Loads, nit, preparation of Cemiperishable Substance Items; clothing, Personal Equiprent and Equipage; General Specif- ication for -Cloth, Satin, Acetate or Rayon Face and Rayon or Cbtton Back - clot

11、h, Twill, Polyester and Cotton, mlyester an Rayon - Container, Shipping and Storage, Coat (Hanger Pack) - cloth, Fusibles Textile Test Methods Stitches, Sems, an61 Stitching Sampling Procedures arid Tables for Inspection of Attributes Marking for Shipment and Storage 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleN

12、o reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-29381C MILeD-147 - Palletized nit Loads MIL-Sl!D-73 1 MIL-SID-1494 (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of federai anti military specifications, standards, and handbooks are mailable frm the Standardization Documents 3/8-inch all

13、owance for sleeves, sleeve linings, setting sleeves, shoulder seams, collar stand to neck an center front to side front; 5/8-inch allowance for side; 3/8-inch allowance for all seams in the liner, except as otherwise specified in Table I. Mditional notches for use during mnstruction me permitted on

14、the working patterns. Also, minor modifications are permitted here necessary when using atmatic equipnent. These modifications shall rnt alter the dimensional serviceability or appearance requirements cited in this specification. Standard patterns show size, seam allowances, directional lines for cu

15、tting, and are marked or notched jbr proper placement and assembly of the coPnponent parts. 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-293 8 1 C 3.5.1 Pattern Coats shall be cut from the material specified herein in amdance -itern wi parts

16、 iridicatd hiow. No. of *Item Pattern Nmenclature cut parts 1. Center front 2 Material-: Basic fabric 2. Side front 2 3. Back 2 4. Front sleeve 2 5. Back sleeve 2 * 6. Front facing 2 7. Collar 2 8. Collar stand 2 9. Belt 1 10. Back vent facing 1 11. Pocket welt 2 12. Sleeve strap 2 13. Shoulder stra

17、p 4 14. Neck facing 1 15. Pocket facing 2 17. Outside back yoke - class 3 1 18. Hanging Pocket (top ply) 2 19. Hanqing Pocket (under ply) 2 . 20. Front 2 16. Front flap (upper left gun patch) - Class 3 2 Material: Lining 21. Back 2 22 . Front Sleeve 2 Back .Sleeve 2 Material: Nonwoven Fusible Interl

18、ining 23 . Center front 2 Side front 2 24. 25. 26. Front facing 2 27. Belt 1 28. Shoulder strap 2 29 . Focket welt 2 30. Collar 1 31 . Collar stand 1 32. Sleeve strap 2 33 . Neck facing 1 34. Front sleeve bottan reinforcement 2 35. Back sleeve bottom reinforcement 2 36 . 37. Front flap (upper left -

19、 gun patch) Class 3 1 Material: Liner Front 2 t . 38. Back 2 39. Sleeve 2 40 . Lapel 41 . Button and Buttonhole 42 . Marker Button and Belt Fastener 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-273LC 84 m 977770b 0447502 5 MIL-C-29381C 3.6

20、 Construction. The coat shall be manufactured in accordance With the opera- tions and the stitch, seam, and stitching types specified in Table I. The manu- facturer will not be required to follow the exact sequence of operations as list- ed. The thread and the fabric shall not be lubricated by any m

21、eans prior to or during the seaming. The stitch, sem, and stitching type specified in Table I shall conform to FED-STD-751. The number of stitches per inch as specified in Table I indicates the minimum and maxhwn number permitted. If two or mre meth- ods or seam or stitch types are given for the sam

22、e part of an operation, any one of them may be used. Where stitch type 401 is sed, the looper (under thread) shall be on the inside of the outer shell of the coat and on the side of the liner that will face the outer shell in the finished mat. Seams shall be sewn so that no raw edges, run Offs, twis

23、ts, pleats, puckers, or open seams Will result. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained so that the stitching will not be tight or loose. Ikiless otherwise specified herein, raise stitching or edge stitching shall be 1/16 inch from the edge and 1/4 inch gage. The

24、stitching for safety stitch construction shall be 3/8-inch gage. The guides and hives on the safety _switch machine shall set to trim only the ra- velled ends of the fabric. Seams required to be mrked out having a depth between the fold of 1/16 inch or mre shall not be acceptable. The ends of all se

25、ams and stitchings not caught by other seams and stitching shall be backtacked not less than 1/2 inch. Thread breaks of stitch Type 301 shall be secured by stitching back of the break not less than 1/2 inch. Thread breaks or skipped stitches in stitch Type 401 shall be backstitched not less than 1 i

26、nch with the stitching superimpxed and anchoring the ends of the break when automatic equipnent is auth- orized for use. When automatic equipnent is authorized for use, minor mdifica- tions are permitted where necessary, These mdifications shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability or appearanc

27、e requirements cited in this specifica- tion. 3.6.1 Shade. marking. The mnponent parts of the coat cut frm one piece of basic material and lining material shall be shade marked tio insure a dform shade and size throughout the garment. Any method of shade marking may be used except: a. Corrosive meta

28、l fastening devices. b. Adhesive type tickets which show discoloration or the use of an adhesive mass hich adheres to the material upon remwal of the tickets . 3.6.2 Fusing operations. The fusing aperation for. fusing the fusible interlin- ins specified in 3.3.5 to the basic fabric of the outer shel

29、l specified in 3.3.1 should be performed on a fusing press. Specific settings (see 6.1) for the parti- cular fusible style and press to be used should be obtained frm the supplier of the fusible material so that the optimun results can be the inside edge of the eyelet shall be 5/8 to 3/4 inch from t

30、he pointed end. The buttonhole shall not be off centered by more than 1/8 inch. Make collar. a. Fuse the collar interlin- ing to the respective collar parts (see 3.6.2). b. Stitch the undercollar to the topcollar around the side and the top edges with 1/4- inch seam. c. Trim, turn, and force out the

31、. edges of the collar. Double s.titch the collar 1/16 inch from the turned edges -and 1/4 inch gage. Make collarstand and attach collar . a. Position collarstand interlining on both plies of collarstand and fuse (see 3.6.2). - I 12 STCH TYPE 301 or 40 1 and 301 503 or 504 But- ton- hole 301 or 40 1

32、30 1 - SEAM/ STCH TYPE - SSe-3 (a) SSe-3 (a) SSe-3 (b) EFd- 1 EFd- 1 SSe-3 (a) SSe-3 (a) SSe-3 STCH/ IN 10-12 10-12 10-12 6-12 6-12 50-54 Per button iole .nclud .ng :ack . it end 10-12 10-12 10-12 P NDL 50 50 50 70 70 30 50 50 50 BOB/ LPR 50 70 50 70 70 50 50 70 50 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo re

33、production or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-. MIL-C-29381C TABLE I MANVFACTRING REQUIREMENTS OPERATION Make cqllarstand and attach collar . (con t d 1 b. Position the collar between the top collarstand and the under collarstand, with the raw edges even and notches matching, and .

34、stitch along the top edge of the collarstand with 1/4-inch seam. c. Turn down collarstand and stitch 1/16 inch from raised edge. d. Stitch the bottom of the top collarstand: and the under collarstand. together. The finished collar shall be 2 5/8 - + 1/8 inches wide at the ten- ter back Make ,pocke.t

35、 welt. Finished appear ance . The welts shall be uniformly made and stitched. a. ,Position welt interlining to the inside of each welt and fuse (see. 3.6.2). b. Fold welt in half length- wise face to face and close each end of the welt with a 1/4-inch seam. c. Turn welt, completely working out seame

36、d edges and corners. d. Double edgestitch the welt uniformly 1/16 inch from the turned and folded edges and 1 /4-inch gage. e. On the finished coat, the length of the welt shall be 7 - + 3/16 inch for all sizes of cots. - STCH TYPE 301 or 40 1 301 301 301 . 30 1 SEAM/ STCH TYPE 7 ssq-2 (a) ssq-2 (b)

37、 LSq-2 (b) CSa-1 SSe-3 (a) SSe-3 (b) and OSf-1 STCH/ IN 10-12 10-1 2- 10-12 10-12 10-12 10-12 NDL 50 50 50 50 50 50 BOB/ LPR - 50 70 50 50 50 50 13 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-273LC 4 77797Ob 044950 b m MIL-C-29381C . TABLE

38、I MANUFACTURING mQUIREMENTI OPERATTON Make front upper flat (Gun-patch), Class 3 a. Position the fusible interlining on the underside of the top ply of the front flap and fuse (see 6.7.1). b. Position the top ply and the underply of front flag face to face with edges even. Seam the two -plies togeth

39、er along the front and botton edges with a 1/4 inch seam. The line of stitching shall be from the step at the gorge (neck edge) to the armhole edge. C. Turn the flap right side out, forcing the seam to the edge. Topstitch the flap with a doubl row of stitching 1/16 inch from the edge and l/a inch ga

40、ge. Ma,ke sl-eeve 1 ining . a. Position the back and front sleeve lining face to face with edges even and join together. the top arm seam, and under arm seam 3/8 inch from the raw edges. b. Overedge stitch the raw edges together. -0.r- c. As an alternate, operation 10a and 10b may be performed in on

41、e operation by simultane- ously stitching and over- edging. STCH TYPE 301 301 301 503 504 or ar 602 . 51 5 or - 51 6 or 51 9 - SEAM/ STCH TYPE 7 SSe-3 (a) SSe-3 (b) SSa-1 SSa-1 SSa-1 SSa-1 SSa-2 Chain stitc ing SSa-2 Over- edge stitc ing STCH/ IN 10-12 10-1 2 10-12 6-12 6-12 6-12 -. 6-12 6-12 6-12 N

42、DL 50 50 A A A A A A A 50 50 A A A A A A A Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-. MIL-C-29381C TABLE I MANUFACTURING REQUIREMENTS OPERATION Make sleeve lining. (contd) d. Press seams smooth arid flat with a heated pressing iron or-pressing

43、 machine. Assemble back lining. a. Position the back parts of lining with edges even, notch- es matched, and join at the center back with 3/8-inch seam from top edge (neck edge) of back to bottom edge. b. Overedge stitch the raw edges together. -or- c As an alternate, op ration 10a and 10b may be pe

44、rformed in one operation by simultane- ously stitching and over- edging. d. Fold the upp-r edge of the back in accordance with the notches . Stitch across the fold to form center back lining pleat. The pleat shall be toward the left wide as worn. e. Fold and stitch shoulder darts as indicated by mar

45、ks on the patterns. The darts shall be neatly formed and tapered to a flat point and securely tacked or backstitched. STCH TYPE 301 or 401 503 or 504 or 602 51 5 or 51 6 or 51 9 301 301 SEAM/ STCH TYPE CSa-1 Sa-1 SSa-1 SSa-1 SSa-1 SSa-2 (Chai stitc ing 1 SSa-2 (Over edge- stitc ing 1 SSa-2 SSa- 1 OS

46、f-1 STCH/ IN 10-12 10-1 2 6-12 6-12 6-1 2 6-12 6-1 2 6-1 2 10-1 2 10-12 M)L A A A A A R A A A 50 BOB/ LPR A A A A A A A A A 50 15 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-273LC 4 7777706 0447530 4 - NO - 1 1 12 13, MIL-C-2938 IC TABLE I

47、MANUFACTURING REQUIREMENTS OPERATION Assemble back lininq. (contd) f. Press the back seams and shoulder dart smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron or pressing machine. The shoul- der darts shall be pressed toward the center back. Assemble front lining. a. Fold and stitch bust darts in front li

48、ning as indicated by marks on the patterns. The darts shall be neatly formed and tapered to a flat point. The point shall be securely tacked or backstitched. b. Press the bust darts smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron or pressing machine. The bust darts shall be pressed toward the front. Joi

49、n back and front lininq. a. Position the back and fronts with edges even and join together at the sides with 3/8-inch seam. b. Position the back and fronts with edges even and join together at the shoulder with 3/8-inch seam, catching the back and bust darts in the stitching . c. Overedge stitch the raw edges together at the side and shoulder seams. -or- STCH TYPE 30 1 301 301 or 401 503 or