DLA MIL-S-29432 B-1994 SLACKS WOMEN-S《女式运动裤》.pdf

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1、I INCH POUND I MIL-S-29432B O1 June 1994 SUPERSEDING 14 November 1990 MIL-S-294 32A MILITARY SPECIFICATION SLACKS, WOMENS This specification is approved for use by all departments and agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for womens sla

2、cks. 1.2 Classification. The slacks shall be of one type in the following classes, sizes and lengths (see 6.2). CLASS Class 1 - Polyester/Wool, Gabardine: Green 2212 Class 2 - Polyester/Wool, Gabardine: Sky Blue 2319 Schedule of sizes and lenqths Sizes: OX, 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18 Lengths: Sh

3、ort, Regular and Long Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Defense Personnel Support Center, Clothing and Textiles Directorate, Attn: DPSC-FQSD, 2800 South 20th Street, Philadelphia,

4、PA 19101-8419, by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. msc N/A DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. FSC 8410 Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking p

5、ermitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-S-29432B 999990b L985L40 977 = MIL-S-29432B c 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 Government documents 2.1.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein

6、. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL A-A-5 O O 8 3 A-A-50 19 8 A-A- 5 O 19 9 A-A-5

7、 20 94 A-A-5 2 1 O 6 V-B-871 V-F-106 V-T-295 DDD-L-20 MI LI TARY MIL-C-10176 MIL-B-17757 MIL-C-44296 STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-191 FED-STD-751 MILITARY MIL-STD-105 MIL-STD-129 MIL-STD-147 MIL-STD-656 - Bag, Plastic, Folded Garment - Thread, Gimp, Cotton - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester

8、Covered - Thread, Cotton - Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester or Polyester Blend - Button, Sewing Hole and Button, Staple (Plastic) - Fastener, Slide, Interlocking - Thread, Nylon - Label; For Clothing, Equipage and Tentage (General Use) - Cloth, Gabardine, Wool, Polyester and Wool - Box, Shippi

9、ng, Fiberboard (Modular Sizes) - Cloth, Fusibles - Textile Test Methods - Stitches, Seams and Stitchings - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes - Marking for Shipment and Storage - Palletized Unit Loads - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Slacks, Womens 2 Provided by IHSNot

10、 for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-. MIL-S-2943SB MIL-STD-731 - Quality of Wood Members for MIL-STD-984 - Provisions for Size labeling of Containers and Pallets Womens Uniform Clothing (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of Federal and military specificat

11、ions, standards and handbooks are available from the Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 4D, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.) 2.1.2 Other Government documents, drawinqs, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of thi

12、s document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation. Federal Acquisition Regulation (FAR 52.209) (Copies of the manual may be obtained from the Superintendent of documents, US Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402-0001.) De

13、partment of Defense (DOD) Standard Color Card of Sewing Threads Department of Defense (DOD) Standard Shades for Buttons (Copies may be obtained from the Color Association of the United States, Inc., 200 Lexington Avenue, New York, New York 10016. ) 2.2 Non-Government publications. The following docu

14、ment forms a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DoD adopted shall be those listed in the issue of the DODISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DODISS ar

15、e the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS ASTM-D 3951 - Standard Practice for Commercial Packaging (Applications for copies should be addressed to the American Society for Testing and Materials, 1916 Race Street, Philadelphia, PA 19

16、103-1187.) (Non-Government standards and other publications are normally available from the organizations that prepare or distribute the documents. These documents also may be available in or through libraries or other informational services.) 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networ

17、king permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-29432B 999990b 1985142 74T 2.3 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable law

18、s and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1 Standard samples. Samples, when furnished, are solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.2). Variations from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case this specification shall gov

19、ern. 3.2 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection, in accordance with 4.4 and 6.4. 3.3 Materials 3.3.1 Basic materials. The basic material for each class of slacks shall be as follows: a. Class 1. Cloth, 10.6 ounce, polyester/wool gabardine Gre

20、en, shade 2212, conforming to type II, class 12 Of MIL-C-10176. b. Class 2. Cloth, 10.6 ounce, polyester/wool gabardine, Sky Blue, shade 2319, conforming to type II, class 12 of MIL-C-10176. 3.3.2 Linina and pocketinq. The material for the pockets, crotch lining and pocket stays shall be twill or pl

21、ain weave cloth, polyester or polyester blend cloth conforming to class 1 of A-A-52106. The color shall be black. 3.3.3 Thread. The thread for each class of slacks shall be as follows : a. Class 1 and 2. Cotton thread shall be used conforming to A-A-52094 as follows: Opera tion Type Ticket No. Ply B

22、uttonholes Seams, stitching Overedging Buttons III III I II O A 70 16 As an alternate to the cotton thread, a polyester, cotton-covered thread conforming to A-A-50199, ticket number 70, 2-ply, may be used. Caution: some automatic machines will not operate properly with this thread. 4 Provided by IHS

23、Not for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-29432B m 97999Ob 1785143 b8b D MIL-S-29432B 3.3.3.1 Automatic button sewinq. If an automatic machine which sews and shanks (wraps) the buttons in one operation is used, the thread shall be waxed nylon monocord s

24、pecial No. 5, having a minimum breaking strength of 16 pounds and a minimum length per pound of 2150 yards. This thread shall be tested for these requirements and for colorfastness (see 3.3.3.3) in accordance with test methods in V-T-295. 3.3.3.2 Color. The color of the thread for each class of slac

25、ks shall conform to the following: a. Class 1. Olive Drab, T-1, Cable No. 66023 b. Class 2. Blue, AT, Cable No. 66060 NOTE: See DoD Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads. 3.3.3.3 Colorfastness. The colored thread shall show fastness to light and wet dry cleaning equa

26、l to or better than the standard sample. When a standard sample is not available, the colored thread shall show “good“ fastness to light and wet dry cleaning. 3.3.4 Gimp. The gimp for reinforcing the buttonhole shall conform to type I or II, size No. 8 of A-A-50198. The color of the gimp shall be th

27、e same as indicated for thread in 3.3.3.2 with the same colorfastness requirements specified for thread in 3.3.3.3. 3.3.5 Button. The button for the waistband shall be 27 line, conforming to type II, class D, style 4 of V-B-871. The color of the buttons for each class of slacks shall be as follows:

28、(See DOD Standard Shades for Buttons.) a. Class 1. Green, Shade AF, Cable No. 62017 b. Class 2. Blue, Shade BV, Cable No. 62003 3.3.6 Slide fasteners. The slide fasteners shall conform to either 3.3.6.1 or 3.3.6.2. 3.3.6.1 Metal. The slide fasteners shall conform to type I, style 3, short tab pull,

29、cam lock, size LS (commercial No. 4), of V-F-106, except that the salt spray test shall not be required. All the metal components of the slide fastener shall be brass and from the same supplier (see 4.5.1). The tape shall be cotton or synthetic or a combination. The length of the slide fastener shal

30、l be 7 inches for all sizes. 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-29432B 999990b 1985144 512 t MIL-S-29432B 3.3.6.2 Plastic coil. The slide fastener shall be manufactured with a polyester or nylon chain, an automatic or cam lock sl

31、ider, and shall be equal to commercial size No. 2. The tape shall be polyester or a blend of nylon and cotton or polyester and cotton. The length of the slide fastener shall be 7 inches for all sizes. 3.3.6.3 Color. The color of the slide fastener tape shall be as follows : a. Class 1. Green, shade

32、AF, cable No. 66531 b. Class 2. Blue, shade AA, cable No. 66527 3.3.6.4 Colorfastness. The dyed slide fastener tape shall show colorfastness to wet-dry cleaning equal to or better than the guide sample when tested as specified in V-F-106. When a guide sample is not available, the tape shall show “go

33、od“ colorfastness when tested as specified in V-F-106. 3.3.7 Label. Each pair of slacks shall have a combination identification and instruction label conforming to type VI, classes 1 and 3 of DDD-L-20. The slacks are intended to be dry cleaned and the labels shall show fastness to dry cleaning. The

34、inscription shall be as follows: SLACKS, WOMENS STOCK NO.: 8410-00-000-0000 (Example) CONTRACT NO.: DLA-100-C-0000 (Example) FIBER CONTENT: NAME OF CONTRACTOR DRY CLEAN ONLY 3.3.7.1 Size labels. The size label shall conform to type VI, class 2 of DDD-L-20 except that the stock number is not required

35、. The inscription on the size label shall conform to MIL-STD-984; Table II, Body Measurements for Marine Corps, Table III Height Ranges and Figure 2. Examples of labels for womens slacks is as follows: (NOTE: The label on the bottom of Figure 2 shall be used for Marine Corps items.) Example : Hip Ci

36、rc 36“ Waist Circ 2 5 - 1 / 2 I Height 63-1/2“ to 67“ R (Size Code 6) 3.3.7.2 Label/taq. Each item shall be individually bar-coded with the type VIII, class 17 label/tag of DDD-L-20. This label/tag shall be located so that it is completely visible on the item when it is folded and/or packaged as spe

37、cified and so that it causes no damage to the item. 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-29Y32B 9999906 1985145 459 m MIL-S-29432B 3.3.8 Fusible interlininq. black. The fusible shall conform to type V, class 1, style B of MIL-C-442

38、96. The fusible shall be fused to the basic material as recommended by the supplier of the fusible. The waistband and left fly shall be 3.3.9 Hook and eve. The hook and eye shall be North and Judd (Hook Flex H-49. K-50, H-89 and E-90); Universal Button Co. (Talon #3, #7 and #8 hook with #8 eye); Aki

39、m Co or Patwin, Inc., Junior Series, type JB; Stimpson (P-536, D-4086, D04457, D-4288); Rau (OA50, OX 1256, 080415); Patwin, Inc. (Slim-Slak with MB eye, and Slik-Slax) or equal. The finish shall be nickel plated. Prior to use of an “or equal“ item, the supplier shall submit the item with supporting

40、 data to the contracting officer for approval (see 4.5.1). 3.4 Desiqn. The slacks shall be the Marine Corps design shown on Figures 1 and 2, having a two-piece waistband with button closure, hook and eye, 1/8 inch top side pockets, outlet at the seat seam, front fly with slide fastener, and slightly

41、 tapered legs with unhemmed overedge bottoms. 3.5 Patterns. Standard patterns to be used to cut working patterns will be furnished by the Government. The patterns allow 1/2 inch seam allowance for all seams, except as otherwise indicated herein. The working patterns shall be identical to the Governm

42、ent patterns. Neither the Government patterns nor the working patterns shall be altered in any way. 3.5.1 Pattern parts. The component parts of the slacks shall be cut from materials as specified herein accordance with the pattern parts indicated below: Pattern Nomenclature Item Basic material No. o

43、f cut parts 1. Front 2. Back 3. Left waistband 4. Right waistband 5. Left fly 6. Right fly 7. Front pocket bearer 8. Front pocket facing interlining (fusible) 9. 10. 11. Left fly Left waistband Right waistband 1 1 1 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without licen

44、se from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-29432B 999990b 1985146 395 MIL-S-29432B Pattern Nomenclature - contd. Lining (cloth twill) 12. 13. 14. Crotch lining Pocket stays pockets 1 2 2 3.6 Construction. The slacks shall be manufactured in accordance with operation requirements as specified in Table I. The contractor i

45、s not required to follow the exact sequence of operations as listed in Table I, but all operations specified shall be used to manufacture the slacks. 3.6.1 Stitches, seams, and stitches. Stitch, seam and stitching types specified in Table I shall conform to FED-STD-751. Whenever two or more methods

46、for seam or stitching types are given for the same part of the operation, any one of them may be used. Where stitch 401 is used, the looper (underthread) shall be on the inside of the slacks. The minimum and maximum number of stitches per inch shall be as specified in Table I. 3.6.1.1 Thread breaks

47、and ends of seams. The ends of all seams and stitching produced with 301 stitch type, when not caught in other seams or stitching, shall be secured by stitching back of the break not less than 1/2 inch. Skipped stitches may be repaired by using 301 stitch type. The ends of a continuous line of stitc

48、hing shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch. Thread ends of darts shall be trimmed to a length of 1/2 inch. When an automatic dart machine is used, the ends shall be backstitched not less than 3 stitches. 3.6.2 Buttonhole. The buttonhole shall be eyelet end, taper bar type. The finished cut leng

49、th of the buttonhole shall be 5/8 inch. 3.6.3 Pressinq. Pressing as required in Table I shall be accomplished with a heated pressing iron or machine. 3.6.4 Shade markinq. The component parts shall be marked to insure a uniform shade and size throughout the slacks. Any method of shade marking may be used except: a. Corrosive metal fastening devices. b. Sew-on shade tickets. c. Adhesive type tickets, which leave traces of paper or adhesive on