DLA MIL-S-29429 B-1994 SKIRTS WOMEN-S《女裙》.pdf

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1、MIL-S-29429B 7799906 1980240 2Tl = IINCH POUNDI MIL-S-29429B O1 June 1994 SUPERSEDING MIL-S-29429A 21 December 1990 MILITARY SPECIFICATION SKIRTS, WOMENS This specification is approved for use by the U. S. Marine Corps, Department of the Navy, and is available for use by all departments and agencies

2、 of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1 Scope. polyester/wool skirts. 1.2 Classification. following classes, sizes and lengths (see 6.2): This specification covers the requirements for The skirts shall be of one type in the Class 1 - Polyester/Wool, Gabardine; Green 2212 Class 2 - Polyester/Wool

3、, Gabardine; Blue 2312 Schedule of Sizes and Lenqths Sizes OX, 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18 Lengths: Short, Regular and Long Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Defense Personnel S

4、upport Center, Clothing and Textiles Directorate, Attn: DPSC-FQSD, 2800 South 20th Street, Philadelphia, PA 19101-8419, by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. AMSC N/A FSC 8410 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved f

5、or public release; distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-29429B m 9999906 L98024L II38 m MIL-8-29429B _- 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 Government documents 2.1.1 SDecifications, standards and handbooks. The fo

6、llowing specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement t

7、hereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL A-A-5 O 19 8 A-A-5 O 19 9 A-A-52 O9 4 A-A-5 2 1 O 6 V-B-871 V-F-106 V-T-295 UU-P-268 DDD-L-2 O MILITARY MIL-C-368 MIL-B-37 1 MIL-T-5237 MIL-C-10176 MIL-B-17757 MIL-C-44296 STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-751 MILITARY MIL-STD-105 MIL-STD-1

8、29 -Thread, Gimp, Cotton -Thread, Polyester, Core, Cotton or Polyester -Thread, Cotton -Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and -Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple, -Fastener, Slide, Interlocking -Thread, Nylon -Paper, Kraft, Wrapping -Label; For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Use)

9、 Covered Polyester Blend (Plastic) -Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cloth, Twill Rayon -Braid, Textile, Tubular -Tape, Textile; Webbing, Textile; Rayon -Cloth, Gabardine, Wool, Polyester and Wool -BOX, Shipping, Fiberboard (Modular Sizes) -Cloth Fusible -Stitches, Seams and Stitchings -Sampling Procedures T

10、able II Body Dimensions for Marine Corps, Table III Height Ranges and Figure 2. Examples of labels are as follows: The size label shall conform to type VI, Hip Circ 36“ Waist Circ 25 1/2“ Height 63-1/2 - 67“ (R) (Size Code 6) 3.4 Desiun. The skirts shall be the U. S. Marine Corps design shown in Fig

11、ures 1, 2, 3 and 4, having a gore style skirt with three front panels and two back panels, full lining, an opening at the top of the center back seam with a slide fastener closure, and a one-piece set-on waistband with both ends to button at the center opening. The skirt shall have a center back ple

12、at and the bottom shall be pinked. 3.5 Patterns. Standard patterns will be furnished to the contractor by the Government (see 6.3). The standard patterns shall not be altered in any way and shall be used only as a guide for cutting the contractors working patterns. working patterns shall be identica

13、l to the standard patterns. Standard patterns show size, seam allowances, directional lines for cutting, and are marked or notched for proper placement and assembly of the component parts. allowance of 3 inches for hemming the bottom of the skirt. The contractors The patterns provide an 3.5.1 Patter

14、n Darts. The skirts shall be cut from the materials specified herein in accordance with the pattern parts indicated below: Item Pattern Nomenclature Cut Parts Material: Basic 1. Center front 1 2. Side front 2 3. Back 2 4. Waistband 1 5. Placket 1 6. Watch Pocket (Bottom Ply) 1 Material: Lining 7. Fr

15、ont 1 8. Left Back 1 9. Right Back 1 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-294298 = 9999906 19802V 656 MIL-S-29429B Item Pattern Nomenclature Cut Parts Material: Twill, Polyester and Cotton or Fusible 10. 11. Watch Pocket (Top Ply)

16、(twill) 1 Waistband interlining (twill or fusible) 1 3.6 Construction. The skirts shall be manufactured in accordance with the operation requirements as specified in Table I. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operation as listed in Table I, but all operations specified s

17、hall be used to manufacture the skirts. 3.6.1 Stitches. seams, and stitchinss. Stitch, seam, and stitching types specified in Table I shall conform to FED-STD-751. The minimum and maximum number of stitches per inch shall be as specified in Table I. 3.6.1.1 Thread breaks and ends of seams. The ends

18、of seams and stitching produced with 301 stitch type, when not caught in other seams or stitching, shall be backstitched not less than 1/4 inch. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of the break not less than 1/2 inch. Skipped stitches may be repaired by using 301 stit

19、ch type. The ends of a continuous line of stitching shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch. Thread ends of darts shall be trimmed to a length of 1/2 inch. When an automatic dart machine is used, the ends shall be backstitched not less than 3 Stitches. 3.6.2 Buttonhole. The buttonhole shall be ey

20、elet end, taper bar type. The finished cut length of buttonhole shall be 3/4 inch. 3.6.3 Pressinq. Pressing as required in Table I shall be accomplished with a heated pressing iron or machine. 3.6.4 Shade markinq. The component parts shall be marked to insure a uniform shade and size throughout the

21、skirt. of shade marking may be used except: Any method (a) Corrosive metal fastening devices (b) Sew-on shade tickets (c) Adhesive type tickets, which leave traces of paper or adhesive on material after removal of tickets 8 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without

22、 license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-29429B 9999706 L780248 592 MIL-8-29429B TABLE I. - Manufacturina reauirements NO. OPERATION 1. Cuttinq. a. Cut the skirt in strict accordance with patterns furnished by the Government. b. Cut all materials in the direction indicated by directional lines on pattern. The di

23、rectional line shall be placed in the warp direction of the cloth unless otherwise indicated on the pattern. c. Cut component parts of skirt from one piece of basic material, except placket, which may be cut from ends. d. Cut front and back lining parts of the skirt from one piece of lining material

24、. NOTE: The back lining may be cut on the selvage. e. Cut braid for skirt hangers in lengths of 4 1/8 inches. Each skirt shall be provided with two hangers. f. Cut hem tapes not less than 65 inches long (see operation 26) and 18 inches long for edges of the kick pleat. ITCH YPE SEAM/ 5TCH rYPE STCH

25、CN THREAD NDL BOB/ LPR 9 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-TABLE I. - Manufacturins reauirements STCH TYPE 101 NO. OPERATION STCH IN -2-14 2. ReDlacement of damaaed parts. a. Replace at time of cutting any part of the skirt containing h

26、oles or seriously weakening defect such as smashes, multiple floats, loose weakening slubs, etc., expected to develop into holes, shade bars and dye streaks or unsightly slubs, etc. b. Replace any part damaged during manufactur- ing process by needle chew: which may develop into a hole, scissor or k

27、nife cuts, tears, holes, mends or burns in the material. 3. Shade markinq. a. Mark, ticket or bundle all component parts (see 3.6.4) cut from one piece of basic material, except those parts cut fron ends, to ensure uniform shade and size throughout the skirt. 4. Join front and back skirt panels. a.

28、Join the side front panels to the center front panel with a 3/4 inch seam allowance and with notches matching. The ends of the seam shall start and finish evenly at the seam line. SM/ STCH TYPE Sa-1 THREAD NDL BOB/ LPR 50 50 10 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted wit

29、hout license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-294278 9999906 L980250 L40 D MIL-8-29429B TABLE I. - Manufacturinq reauirements NO. OPERATION 4. Join front and back skirt panels. - (contd.) b. From the bottom of the upper notch to the mark at the top of the kick pleat, join the back panels with a l-inch seam allowa

30、nce. The ends of the seams shall start and finish evenly at the seam line. 5. Talie edaes of kick pleat. a. The edges of the kick pleat shall be taped from the top of curve to bottom of unfinished hem. Place the left edge of tape to the top raw edge of pleat opening and stitch 1/8 inch from the edge

31、. Turn tape to underside of basic fabric and blindstitch other edge of tape to the underside of skirt. 6. Overedqe seams. a. The raw edges of the seam allowance on the front and back parts shall be neatly overedge stitched. b. The center back seam shall be overedged together from the bottom of zippe

32、r (at the right side notch) to the curve at the top of the kick pleat. NOTE: Care shall be exercised during the overedging operation to ensure that no seam allowance is reduced by more than 1/16 inch. ;TCH Y PE 101 )O1 501 3r 303 501 IEAM/ ITCH YPE :Sa-1 3Sa-1 EFd-1 EFd-1 STCH :N L2-14 12-14 8-10 8-

33、10 FHREAD JDL BOB/ LPR 50 50 70 70 50 50 70 70 11 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-flIL-S-29429B 9999906 1980251 087 MIL-S-29429B STCH TYPE 301 301 TABLE I. - Manufacturina reauirements SEAM/ STCH TYPE SSa-1 SSa-1 NO. OPERATION 7. 8. 9

34、. Tack the kick pleat. a. The pleat shall finish left over right and shall be tacked through all plies from the center seam to the edge of the width of the pleat (approximately 2 - 3/4 inches, slanted downward 1/2 inch over total length). Join front and back parts. a. Join the front and back parts o

35、f skirt at the side seams with a 1 inch seam allowance and with notches matching. Press seams. a. Spread open all seams and press smooth and flat with a heated iron or pressing machine. The edges of the back open- ing shall be folded back in a straight line with the back seam line and well creased.

36、STCH IN 12-14 12-14 THREAD NDL BOB/ LPR 50 50 50 50 12 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-29429B b 1980252 T13 MIL-8-29429B TABLE I. - Manufacturins reauirements NO. OPERATION 10. Pink bottom edae of skirt. a. The raw edge of the b

37、ottom of the front and back skirt shall be neatly and evenly pinked with the points of the pinking 1/8 inch in depth. NOTE: Care shall be exercised during the pink- ing operation to ensure that the length of skirt is not reduced by more than 1/16 inch. 11. Make watch Docket. a. The watch pocket shal

38、l be made of one ply of basic material and one ply of poly/cotton twill, and shall finish not less than 4 inches wide and 4 inches deep. b. Position both plies of watch pocket face up and with sides and bottom edges even. Join both plies together 3/8 inch from raw edges, 1/2 down from top raw edges

39、at each side. or c. The watch pocket may be joined by seaming and overedge stitching the raw edges together in one operation. STCH TYPE 301 51i SEAM/ STCH TYPE Sa-1 :Sa-2 STCH IN 12-14 12-14 THREAD NDL BOB/ LPR 50 50 70 70 13 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted witho

40、ut license from IHS-,-,-HIL-S-29429B m 999990b I1980253 95T m MIL-8-29129B TABLE I. - Manufacturina reauirements NO. OPERATION 12. 13. Attach watch Docket a. Position the top inside edge of the poly/cotton twill side of pocket to the top raw edge of the right front of the skirt waist. The notch of t

41、he pocket shall be 1 inch in from the side seam. Join the pocket to the skirt waist with a 3/8 inch seam from notch to notch forming a 4 inch wide opening at the top of the waist seam. Turn the pocket up and raise stitch 1/6 inch through twill cloth and front of skirt, catching all plies. b. Notch a

42、nd turn pocket to the inside and bartack each edge of opening. NOTE: Watch pocket shall be between basic fabric and lining. Join linina back parts. Finished appearance. The lining back parts shall be joined without gathers, puckers or pleats. a. Position the lining back parts face to face with edges

43、 even and join at the center with a 1 inch seam, from the bottom of zipper mark to bottom of lining. STCH TYPE 301 301 SEAM/ STCH TYPE Bar- tack Bartack CSa-1 STCH IN 12-14 21-28 12-14 THREAD NDL BOB/ LPR 50/3 50/3 O O 50 50 14 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted wit

44、hout license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-294298 = 9997906 1980254 896 = MIL-8-29429B TABLE I. - Manufacturina reauirements NO. OPERATION 14. Stitch darts in front and back lininq. Finished appearance. The darts shall be tapered to a point at the lower end and shall finish without gathers, puckers or pleats.

45、a. Fold and stitch front and back lining waist darts in accordance with marks and notches as indicated on the pattern. The lower ends of waist darts shall be well tapered to a flat point. b. Press the darts smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron, with the inside folded edge of waist darts towar

46、ds the center of the lining. 15. Join front and back Darts of lininq. a. Join the front and back parts of lining at the side seam with a 1 inch seam and with notches matching. The back seam shall be joined from the bottom edge of lining 7-1/2 inches from the top raw edge to provide for the center ba

47、ck opening. b. The back opening shall be edge stitched 1/8 - 1/4 inch on each side. STCH rY PE 301 301 301 OSf -1 SSa-1 EFa-1 STCH IN 12-14 12-14 12-14 PHREAD JDL BOB/ LPR 50 50 50 50 50 50 15 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-294

48、29B m 9999906 1i980255 722 m MIL-8-2942 9B TABLE I. - Manufacturina reuuirements NO. OPERATION 16. 17. 18. Press linina seams. a. Spread open the center back seam and the side seams and press smooth and flat with a heated iron or pressing machine. Pink seams and bottom edae of lininq. a. The raw edg

49、e of the seam allowance at the side seams, center back lining, and raw edges at the bottom of the front and back lining shall be neatly and evenly pinked with the points of the pinking 1/8 inch in depth. NOTE: Care shall be exercised during the pinking operation to assure that no seam allowance is reduced more than 1/16 inch. Make waistband. Finished appearance. On