DLA MIL-PRF-3122 J-2000 LEATHER CATTLEHIDE FOR FOOTWEAR UPPERS AND GUSSET CHROME TANNED FATLIQUORED《鞋类鞋面和甲胄用加脂铬鞣牛皮皮革》.pdf

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1、MEASUREMENTNOT SENSITIVEMIL-PRF-3122J24 October 2000SUPERSEDINGMIL-PRF-3122H17 January 1996PERFORMANCE SPECIFICATIONLEATHER, CATTLEHIDE, FOR FOOTWEARUPPERS AND GUSSET, CHROME TANNED, FATLIQUOREDThis specification is suggested for use by all Departments and agencies of the Department ofDefense.1. SCO

2、PE.1.1 Scope. This specification covers smooth finish, full grain and corrected grain, chrometanned, fatliquored, cattlehide leather for footwear uppers and gusset.1.2 Classification. The leather will be of two types in the following treatments as specified(see paragraph 6.2):Type I Leather, Cattleh

3、ide, for Footwear Uppers, Chrome Tanned, FatliquoredType II Leather, Cattlehide, Gusset, Chrome Tanned, Fatliquored (see paragraph 6.3)Treatment A Treated for resistance to water absorptionTreatment B Treated for resistance to water penetrationTreatment C Not treated for resistance to waterTreatment

4、 A/B - Treated for resistance to water absorption and penetrationBeneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which maybe of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Defense Supply CenterPhiladelphia, Clothing and Textiles Directorate, Attn: DSCP-C

5、RFD, 700 Robbins Avenue,Bldg. 6D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5096, by using the Standardization Document ImprovementProposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter.AMSC N/A FSC 8330Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-

6、,-MIL-PRF-3122J22. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS.2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in Sections 3 and 4 of thisspecification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specificationor recommended for additional information or as examples. While every

7、 effort has been made toensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet allspecified requirements documents cited in Sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or notthey are listed.2.2 Government documents.2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. T

8、he following specifications, standards, andhandbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwisespecified, the issues of these documents will be those listed in the issue of the Department ofDefense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement there

9、to, cited in thesolicitation (see paragraph 6.2).2.3 Non-Government publications. The following document(s) form a part of this document tothe extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which areDOD adopted will be those listed in the issue of the DODISS cited i

10、n the solicitation. Unlessotherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DODISS are the issues of thedocuments cited in the solicitation (see paragraph 6.2).AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)Chromatic Transference Scale(Copies may be obtained from the Amer

11、ican Association Of Textile Chemists and Colorists,P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 22709.)AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS (ASTM)D1610 Standard Practice for Conditioning Leather and Leather Products for TestingD2098 Test Method for Dynamic Water Resistance of ShoeUpper Leather b

12、y the Dow Corning Leather TesterD2099 Test Method for Dynamic Water Resistance of ShoeUpper Leather by the Maeser Water Penetration TesterD2212 Test Method for Slit Tear Resistance of LeatherD2617 Test Method for Total Ash in LeatherD2807 Test Method for Chromic Oxide in Leather(Perchloric Acid Oxid

13、ation)Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-PRF-3122J3D2810 Test Method for pH of Leather Chemical TestsD2868 Test Method for Nitrogen Content (Kjedahl) and Hide SubstanceContent of LeatherD3495 Test Method for Hexane Extraction of Leat

14、herD3790 Test Method for Volatile Matter (Moisture) of Leather by Oven DryingD4705 Test Method for Stitch Tear Strength of Leather, Double HoleD6012 Test Method for Determination of Resistance of Leather to Color Stain TransferD6014 Test for determination of Dynamic Water Absorption (Leather surface

15、s)D6015 Test Method for Static Water Absorption of Leather Surfaces(Copies may be obtained from the American Society for Testing and Materials, 100 BarrHarbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428.)(Non-Government standards and other publications are normally available from theorganizations that prepar

16、e and distribute the documents. These documents also may be availablein or through libraries or other informational services.2.4 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and thereferences cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in th

17、is documenthowever, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has beenobtained.3. REQUIREMENTS.3.1 Material. The leather shall be full grain or corrected grain, chrome tanned cattlehide sides.3.2 Staining. Except as noted below, the flesh side of the leather shall be tes

18、ted for staining(Bleeding) in accordance with paragraph 4.3. The stain on the test pad shall have an expandedAATCC value of not less than 3.Note: Leather which has a natural colored flesh side that has been subject to small amounts ofdye added to the drum in order to level the shade of the natural c

19、olor need not be tested forstaining.3.3 Finish. Corrected grain leather shall be buffed or snuffed only to the extent that isnecessary to remove superficial blemishes. The grain side of the leather shall have a lightapplication of finish containing only sufficient pigment to assist in making the col

20、or uniform.The finish of the grain side shall be smooth.Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-PRF-3122J4Note: A fine hair cell embossed pattern may be applied to the grain surface of the side. Printedleather shall not be permitted. If e

21、mbossed, the leather shall match the standard sample for finehair cell pattern. Leather previously dyed or finished in a color not specified and then redyed orrefinished a specified color shall not be acceptable.3.4 Fungicide. Unless otherwise specified (paragraph 6.2), one of the following leatherf

22、ungicides is required.3.4.1 TCMTB. The leather shall contain not less than 100ppm and not more than 400ppm ofactive ingredient 2- (thiocyanomethylthio) benzothiazole (TCMTB), (see paragraph 4.4.1).3.4.2 Ortho- Phenyl Phenol. The leather shall not contain less than 540 ppm and not more than2580 ppm.

23、(see paragraph 4.4.2)3.4.3 Diiodomethyl para Tolylsulfone. The leather shall contain not less than 300 ppm and notmore than 2000 ppm. (see paragraph 4.4.3)3.5 Water resistant treatment. When treatment A, B or A/B is specified, the leather shall meetthe following requirements as applicable.3.5.1 Trea

24、tment A (water absorption). When treatment A is specified, specimens of the leathershall gain not more than 30 percent of their weight by water absorption when tested as specifiedin paragraph 4.3.3.5.2 Treatment B (water penetration). When treatment B is specified, at least 80 percent of thespecimen

25、s tested shall withstand not less than 15,000 cycles by ASTM D2099 or not less than4,000 cycles by ASTM D2098 without water penetration, when tested as specified in paragraph4.3.3.5.3 Treatment A/B (water absorption/penetration). When treatment A/B is specified,paragraphs 3.5.1 and 3.5.2 shall apply

26、.3.6 Tearing strength (slit tear) Type I. At least 80 percent of the specimens tested shall havetearing strength values not less than 28 pounds and none below 20 pounds when tested asspecified in paragraph 4.3.3.7 Stitch tear strength Type II. At least 80% of the specimens tested shall have stitch t

27、earingstrength values not less than 30 pounds when tested as specified in paragraph 4.3.3.8 Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, orenvironmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible providedthat the material meets or excee

28、ds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promoteseconomically advantageous life cycle costs.3.9 Chemical requirements. The leather shall conform to the chemical requirements in Table Iwhen tested as specified in paragraph 4.3.Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking per

29、mitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-PRF-3122J5TABLE I. Chemical requirementsCHARACTERISTICS MINIMUM MAXIMUMHexane Soluble material, percent 1/ 4.0 16.0Chromic oxide (1/) shall be calculated on ahide substance basis (1/), percent4.0 7.5Non-determined material, percent (Type I)1/ - 20.0pH value 3.

30、0 4.0Total ash, percent (Type I) 1/ - 10.01/ Calculated on a moisture-free basis.4. VERIFICATION4.1 Classification of inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified asfollows:Quality conformance inspection (see paragraph 4.2)4.2 Quality conformance inspection. Unless otherwi

31、se specified, sampling for inspection shallbe performed in accordance with the referenced documents.4.2.1 Component and material inspection. The above, components and materials shall betested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced specifications, drawings, andstandards unless otherwis

32、e excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this specification orapplicable procurement documents.4.3 End item testing. The methods of testing specified in ASTM, and as listed in Table II, shallbe followed. All test reports shall contain the individual values utilized in expressing the finalresul

33、t. The lot shall be rejected if any one of the following conditions exists:More than three specimens fail requirements for water penetration or slit or stitch tearingstrength.Any specimen fails requirements for water absorption, or staining.Any composite test result fails to meet the specified requi

34、rements.Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-PRF-3122J6TABLE II. End item testsCHARACTERISTICS REQUIREMENTPARAGRAPHTESTMETHODSAMPLEUNITCOMPOSI-TIONMaterial identification 3.1 Visual - -Tannage 3.1 Visual - -Staining 3.2 D6012 1/ 3/ X -

35、Fungicide 3.4 4.4 - XWater absorption(treatment A)3.5.1 D6015or D6014 2/ 3/XWater penetration(treatment B)3.5.2 D2098 orD2099 2/ 3/X -TABLE II. End item tests (continued)CHARACTERISTICS REQUIREMENTPARAGRAPHTESTMETHODSAMPLEUNITCOMPOSI- TIONSlit tearing strength(Type I)3.6 D2212 3/ X -Stitch tearing s

36、trengthType II3.7 D4705 3/ X -Hexane SolubleMaterial3.9 D3495 3/ - XChromic oxide 3.9 D2807 3/ - XNon- determined material(Type I )3.9 4.5.1 - XpH value 3.9 D2810 3/ - XTotal ash (Type I) 3.9 D2617 3/ - X1/ Except that the flesh side of the leather shall be in contact with the color transfer pad.2/

37、The test method used shall be referenced in the test report.3/ Refers to ASTM standards.4.3.1 Sampling Plan. The sampling plan for the required tests shall be as follows:Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-PRF-3122J7LOT SIZE (SQFT) SA

38、MPLE SIZEUp to 25,000 sq. ft. 154.4 Fungicide.4.4.1 TCMTB. Testing to determine the concentration of Busan 30 L in the leather shall beconducted by using Buckman Laboratories standard test method for 2- (Thiocyanomethylthio)Benzothiazole Analysis of Leather by HPLC. This method may be obtained by co

39、ntactingBuckman Laboratories at 1256 North McLean Blvd., Memphis, TN 38108 (800) 282-5626.4.4.2 Ortho-phenyl phenol. Testing to determine chemical concentration in leather shall beconducted in accordance with Test I, Type I of the MIL-L-8067 specification.4.4.3 Diiodomethyl para Tolylsulfone. The ch

40、emical concentration in the leather shall beconducted using the High Pressure Liquid Chromatography (HPLC) test method as follows:4.4.3.1 Grinding. Grind the leather according to paragraph 6.3.7 of ASTM Method D2813Standard Practice for Sampling Leather for Physical and Chemical Tests.4.4.3.2 Stock

41、Standard Preparation. Weigh accurately approximately 100mg of Diiodomethyl-para-tolylsulfone Internal Reference Standard (IRS), into a 100ml volumetric flask. Addapproximately 50ml of acetonitrile, stopper and sonicate to aid dissollution (about 1 minute).Dilute to volume with acetonitrile.4.4.3.3 W

42、orking Standards Preparation. Transfer 3ml aliquots of the Stock StandardPreparation in to 25, 50, 100, and 250ml volumetric flasks. Dilute to volume with acetonitrile.These standards contain approximately 12, 30, 60 and 120ppm of Diiodomethyl-para-tolylsulfone.NOTE:(1) A lower standard may be requi

43、red for samples containing very low levels ofDiiodomethyl para tolylsulfone.(2) Solutions must be stored in darkness to prevent degradation. Minimize exposure tolight during preparation and use. The Standard Preparations may be retained one month.(3) Internal Reference Sample (IRS) is available from

44、 Chemtan Company, Inc.,P.O. Box C, Exeter, NH 03833 Tel.: 603-772-3741.4.4.3.4 Sample preparation. Accurately weigh approximately 3 to 5g of sample into a 150mlbeaker. Add 75-100ml of acetonitrile. Cover samples with parafilm; mix 16 to 24 hours onmagnetic stir plate. The following day, allow sample

45、s to settle; remove necessary amount ofacetonitrile and inject Note: Samples may have to be diluted further to fall within standardcurve.Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-PRF-3122J84.4.3.5 Testing equipment:HPLC System with variable

46、 UV detector and integrating computer. Suitable syringe andglassware.A micro-Bondapak C18 column (Waters Associates P/N 2734) or equivalent.0.45-micron polycarbonate filters (Nuclepore Corporation, Catalog No. 111107) or equivalent.Calculator capable of doing linear regression.Reagents: Acetonitrile

47、 (Chromatographic grade).4.4.3.5.1 Typical mobile phase. Mix 550ml of distilled water and 450ml of acetonitrile. Filterand degas the solution. The concentration may be varied to meet system suitability requirementswithin range 40% to 50% acetonitrile.4.4.3.5.2 Typical chromatographic conditions:Inje

48、ction Volume 20 MicrolitersFlow 2.5 ml/minuteDetector 235 nm4.4.3.6 System suitability. Inject the highest working standard until 2 percent agreement isreached between two successive injections. Chromatograph for approximately 15 minutes.Determine that, after the solvent front, one impurity peak elutes before the major peak. Elutionfor monoiodomethyl-para-tolylsulfone is about 6 minutes and for Diiodomethyl-para-tolylsulfone is about 8.5 minutes.4.4.3.7 Procedure. Inject each standard and sample preparation in