DLA MIL-DTL-3738 L-2005 CLOTH ELASTIQUE WOOL《弹性羊毛布》.pdf

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1、 INCH-POUND MIL-DTL-3738L 14 April 2005 SUPERSEDING MIL-C378K 31 March 1987 DETAIL SPECIFICATION CLOTH, ELASTIQUE, WOOL This specification is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1 Scope. This document covers the requirements for wool elastique cl

2、oth. 1.2 Classification. The cloth should be of the following types and classes as specified (see 6.2). Type I - 19 ounce Type II - 18 ounce Class 1 - 64s grade wool Class 2- 70s grade wool Type III - 16 ounce Type IV - 19 ounce Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addresse

3、d to: Defense Supply Center Philadelphia, Clothing and Textiles Directorate, ATTN: DSCP-CRDD, 700 Robbins Avenue, Bldg. 6D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5092, or emailed to http:/ct.dscp.dla.mil. Since contact information can change, you may want to verify the currency of this address information using th

4、e ASSIST Online database at http:/assist.daps.dla.mil. AMSC N/A FSC 8305 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-3738L 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3, 4, or 5 of t

5、his specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all the specified

6、requirements documents cited in sections 3, 4, or 5 of this specification, whether or not they are listed. 2.2 Government documents. 2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unl

7、ess otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract. DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS MIL-C-43665 - Cloth, Wool: Mothproofing Treatment of DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE STANDARD MIL-STD-655 - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Cloth, Wool, Worsted and

8、 Wool Blends (Copies of these documents are available online at http:/assist.daps.dla.mil/quicksearch/ or from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.) 2.2.2 Other documents, drawings, and publications. The following other documents, dra

9、wings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issue of this document is that cited in the solicitation or contract. RULES AND REGULATIONS UNDER THE WOOL PRODUCTS LABELING ACT (Copies of this document may be obtained from the Supe

10、rintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402.) 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-3738L 2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent speci

11、fied herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the solicitation or contract. ASTM INTERNATIONAL ASTM D3775 - Fabric Count of Woven Fabric ASTM D3776 - Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric ASTM D5034 - Breaking Force and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab

12、 Test), G-E or G-T (Copies of these documents are available from http:/www.astm.org/ or ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959.) AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS AATCC 8 - Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method AATCC 15 - Colorfa

13、stness to Perspiration AATCC 16 - Colorfastness to Light AATCC 20 - Fiber Analysis: Quantitative AATCC 61 - Colorfastness to Laundering Home and Commercial, Accelerated AATCC 81 - pH of the Water-Extract from Bleached Textiles AATCC 99 - Dimensional Changes of Woven or Knitted Textiles: Relaxation,

14、Consolidation, and Felting AATCC 132 - Colorfastness to Drycleaning (Copies of these documents are available from www.aatcc.org/ or American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27705-2215.) 2.4 Order of precedence. In the event of a confl

15、ict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1 Standard sample. The finished cloth shal

16、l match the standard sample for shade and appearance. Unless otherwise specified (see 3.4.2), the cloth shall be equal to or better than the standard sample with respects to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced (see 6.3). 3.2 First article. When specified, a sample shall b

17、e subjected to first article inspection (see 4.2, 6.2, and 6.5). 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-3738L 3.3 Material. 3.3.1 Stock. The wool shall be fleece wool, pulled wool, or any combination thereof not lower in grade than

18、 the U.S. Standard grades specified below. The use of laps, noils, or any other wool manufacturing by-products shall be prohibited. Type I - 70s U.S. Standard Type II Class I - 64s U.S. Standard Class 2 - 70s U.S. Standard Type III - 70s U.S. Standard Type IV - 70s U.S. Standard 3.3.2 Yarn. The wool

19、 shall be spun from combed top on either the Bradford, French, or American system. The yarn for both warp and filling shall be 2 ply. (NOTE: Selvage yarn. To prevent edges of all types of cloth from building up when rolled, two ply yarns used in the selvage may be made of a finer count than those us

20、ed in the body of the cloth). 3.4 Color. The color of the finished cloth for Types I, II, and III shall be as specified (see 6.2 and 6.4). The color shall be obtained by stock or top dyeing. Piece dyeing will not be permitted. The color for Type IV shall be Cadet Gray 172. 3.4.1 Mothproofing. In the

21、 dyeing operation, the stock or top shall be mothproofed in accordance with MIL-C-43665. 3.4.2 Matching. The color and appearance of the dyed and finished cloth shall match the standard sample when viewed under filtered tungsten lamps which approximate artificial daylight having a correlated color t

22、emperature of 7500 + 200 Kelvin (K), with illumination of 100 + 20 foot candles, and shall be a good match to the sample under incandescent lamplight at 2300 + 200 K. 3.4.3 Colorfastness. The finished cloth shall show fastness to perspiration, wet-drycleaning and light and shall have an AATCC Chroma

23、tic Transference Scale rating of 3.0 when tested as specified in 4.3.4. The finished cloth shall show fastness to crocking and shall have an AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale rating of 3.5 when tested as specified in 4.3.4. 3.5 Physical requirements. The finished cloth shall conform to the requirem

24、ents specified in Table I and when tested as specified in 4.3.4. 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-3738L TABLE I. Physical requirements. Type Weight per linear yard 56 inch width basis (minimum) Yarns per inch (minimum) Warp F

25、illing Breaking strength (minimum) Warp Filling Dimensional stability (minimum) Warp Filling (Ounces) Pounds Pounds Percent Percent I II III IV 19.0 18.0 16.0 19.0 128 98 124 80 138 96 128 98 160 90 140 80 130 70 160 90 5.5 3.0 6.5 4.0 6.5 3.0 5.5 3.0 3.5.1 Width. The width of all types and classes

26、of finished cloth shall be a minimum of 60 inches exclusive of selvage or tuck-in when woven on shuttleless looms. 3.6 Weave. The weave for Type II shall be as shown on Figure 1. The weave for Types I , III, and IV shall be as shown on Figure 2 (see 4.3.4). 3.7 Finish. The face shall be clear and cl

27、osely sheared. The type and character of finish shall conform to that shown by the standard sample. 3.7.1 pH. The pH value of the water extract of the finished cloth shall be between 5.0 and 8.5 inclusive when tested as specified in 4.3.4. 3.8 Length and put-up. Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2),

28、 the cloth shall be finished in continous lengths, each not less than 50 yards. 3.9 Wool content. The finished cloth shall contain not less than 95 percent wool based on the dry weight of the specimen when tested as specified in 4.3.4. 3.10 Wool content label. Cloth manufactured under this document

29、shall be labeled in accordance with the Wool Products Labeling Act. 3.11 Marking. The back of the cloth shall be marked “BACK” at both ends of each roll with letters not less than 1/2 inch in height. The marking shall be clearly legible in any indelible marking used commercially. 3.12 Workmanship. T

30、he finished cloth shall conform to the quality established by this document. 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-3738L 4. VERIFICATION 4.1 Classification of inspections. The inspection requirements specified herein are classifie

31、d as follows: a. First article inspection (see 4.2). b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3). 4.2 First article inspection. When a first article is required (see 6.2), it shall be examined for appearance, color, and finished defects and shall be tested for the characteristics specified in Table II. The

32、presence of any defect or failure of any test shall be cause for rejection of the first article. 4.3 Conformance inspection. Unless otherwise specified, sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with MIL-STD-655. 4.3.1 Component and material inspection. In accordance with 4.1, compone

33、nts and materials shall be inspected in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this document or applicable purchase document. 4.3.2 In-process inspection. Inspection shall be made at any point during any phase of the

34、 manufacturing operation to assure that no laps, noils, or any other wool manufacturing by-products are used (see. 3.3.1), and that the dyeing requirements have been adhered to (see 3.4). The Government reserves the right to exclude from consideration for acceptance any material for which in-process

35、 inspection has indicated nonconformance. 4.3.3 End item examination 4.3.3.1 Point count examination. Examination of the end item shall be in accordance with the provisions of MIL-STD-655 for Fabric Quality Level 7. The demerit point per 100 square yards when calculated as specified in MIL-STD-655 s

36、hall not exceed the established maximum point value. Each defect shall be marked with a 1 to 1-1/2 inch long string. The string shall be sewn into the selvage near the defect. A red string shall represent a three- or four-point defect and a white string shall represent a one- or two-point defect. 6

37、Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-3738L 4.3.3.2 Limits of slubs and knots. Only slubs and knots which exceed the limits shown on Sears Fabric Defect Scales (see 6.6). “D” or “3-1/2” as applicable for slubs and “C” for knots shal

38、l be scored. 4.3.3.3 Shade match, appearance, and finish examination. A 4-inch by 20-inch swatch shall be drawn from each roll in the lot. Each swatch shall be examined visually for shade match and appearance (see 3.4.2) and examined for finish (see 3.7). Any swatch failing to meet the requirements

39、for shade match, appearance, or finish shall be cause for rejection of the roll from which it was drawn. 4.3.4 End item testing. The cloth shall be tested for the characteristics listed in Table II, and shall follow the methods of testing listed in Table II. The physical and chemical values specifie

40、d in Section 3 apply to the results of the determinations made on a sample unit for test purposes as specified in the applicable test methods. The sample unit shall be 4-1/2 continuous yards, full width, of the finished cloth. The lot shall be unacceptable if one or more sample units fail to meet an

41、y test requirement specified. All test reports shall contain the individual values utilized in expressing the final result. The sample size (number of sample units) shall be in accordance with the following: Lot size (yards) Sample size (sample units) 800 or less 2 801 up to and including 22,000 3 2

42、2,001 and over 5 TABLE II. End item tests Characteristics Requirement paragraph Test method Wool grade Yarn ply: Warp Filling Mothproofing Colorfastness to: Perspiration Wet-drycleaning Light Crocking 3.3.1 3.3.2 3.3.2 3.4.1 3.4.3 3.4.3 3.4.3 3.4.3 ASTM D2130 1/ Visual 2/ Visual 2/ 3/ AATCC 15 AATCC

43、 132 AATCC 16 AATCC 9 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-3738L TABLE II. End item tests - continued Characteristics Requirement paragraph Test method Weight Yarns per inch Breaking strength Dimensional stability Weave pH Wool c

44、ontent 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.6 3.7.1 3.9 ASTM D3776 ASTM D3775 ASTM D5034 AATCC 99 Visual 1/ AATCC 81 AATCC 20A 1/ Only one sample unit shall be subjected to this test regardless of lot size. Prior to wool grade determination, two 3 inch (filling direction) wide swatches shall be cut from the sample uni

45、t. Each swatch shall be sufficiently long to weight 5.0 + 0.5 grams. The swatches shall be taken from areas at least 2 inches from the selvages and shall not contain the same warp or filling yarns. Both swatches shall then be stripped of dye as specified in 4.4.1. One 2 by 2 inch specimen shall then

46、 be cut from each of the stripped swatches and tested for wool grade in accordance with ASTM D2130. If any specimen fails to meet the specified grade, the lot shall be rejected. 2/ One determination per sample unit and the results reported as “pass” or “fail”. 3/ As specified in MIL-C-43665 4.4 Meth

47、ods of inspection. 4.4.1 Stripping procedure. The swatches shall be stripped of dye in a launderometer or similar machine in accordance with AATCC 61, Test 1A. Place 1 gram of zinc or sodium sulfoxylated formadelhyde in each of the two machine canisters. Add 400 ml of distilled water shall be added

48、to each, and adjust pH to 3.0 to 3.5 with acetic acid. Place a 5-gram swatch shall in each canister, seal, and rotate in the machine until the temperature reaches 208oF. Then, while maintaining the temperature at 208 + 3oF, continue the rotation for an additional 30 minutes. Remove the swatches and rinse them with warm (120oF) water for 5 minutes, then with cold water for 5 minutes. Air dry on a flat surface under ambient conditions. 8 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-3738L 5. PACKAGING 5.1 Packaging. For acquisi