DLA MIL-C-19516 G-1991 COAT MAN-S POLYESTER WOOL GABARDINE BLUE《男式蓝色华达呢涤纶 羊毛》.pdf

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1、NIL-C-L951bG 4 99999Ob O475094 3 MIL-C-l9516G(MC) . 6 March 1991 SUPERSEDING MIL-C-l9516F(MC) 8 June 1987 MILITARY SPECIFICATION COAT, MANS: POLYESTER/WOOL, GABARDINE; BLUE This specification is approved for use by U. S. Marine Corps, Department of the Navy, and is available for use by all Departmen

2、ts and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1 Scope. This specification covers requirements for a blue polyester/wool gabardine dress coat. 1.2 Classification. The coats shall be of one type in the following sizes, as specified (see 6.2): Schedule of Sizes Extra Short 30 32 33 34 35 36

3、37 38 Short Reqular 30 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 30 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 Lonq Extra Lonq 30 32 33 34 35 35 36 36 37 37 38 38 Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to the Commanding General (PSE

4、-C), Marine Corps Research, Development, and Acquisition Command, Washington, DC 20380, by using the self-addressed Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. AMSC-NA FSC 8405 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A: Approved for public release;

5、 distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-195LbG 84 m 999990b 0475095 5 m Schedule of Sizes - continued Extra Short 39 40 41 42 43 44 46 48 Short Resular Lonq 39 40 41 42 43 44 46 48 39 40 41 42 43 44 46 48 39

6、40 41 42 43 44 46 48 Extra Lonq 39 40 41 42 43 44 46 48 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 Government documents. 2.1.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specifie

7、d, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DoDISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation. SPECIFICATION FEDERAL V-B-871 V-T-276 V-T-280 V-T-301 NN-P-71 UU-P-268 DDD-L-20 DDD-T-86 MILITARY - Butto

8、n, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple, (Plastic) - Thread, Cotton - Thread, Ghp, Cotton, Buttonhole - Thread, Silk - Pallet, Material Handling, Wood, Stringer Construction, 2 Way and 4 Way (Partial) - Paper, Kraft, Wrapping - Label, For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Use) - Tape, Textile; Cot

9、ton, General Purpose (Unbleached, Bleached, or Dyed) MIL-C-368 - Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cloth, Twill, Rayon MIL-B-371 - Braid, Textile, Tubular MIL-F-495 - Finish Chemical, Black, for Copper Alloys MIL-B-3461 - Button, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Cap MIL-C-10176 - Cloth, Gabardine, Wool, Polyester

10、 and Wool 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-19516G 8i.I 7999906 Oi.175096 7 m MIL-P-15011 MIL-P-15064 MIL-C-15065 MIL-C-16375 MIL-B-17757 MIL-C-29365 MIL-C-43718 MIL-C-44192 MIL-C-82252 MIL-C-l9516G(MC) - Pallet, Material Handli

11、ng, wood, Post - Pad, Shoulder and Sleeve-head - Coat, Fronts - Cloth, Wigan, Cotton - Box, Shipping, Fiberboard (Modular Sizes) - Cloth, Nonwoven: Interlining, Fusible, Nylon - Cloth, Twill, Polyester, Polyester and - Container, Shipping and Storage Coat (Hanger - Cloth, Broadcloth, Wool, and Wool

12、Synthetic, Construction 4 Way Entry and Polyester, Polyamine Cotton, Polyester and Rayon Pack) (Mothproofed) STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-191 - Textile Test Methods FED-STD-751 - Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings MILITARY MIL-STD-105 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection MIL-STD-129 - Marking f

13、or Shipment and Storage MIL-STD-147 - Palletized Unit Load by Attributes (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of federal and military specifications, standards, and handbooks are available from the Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg 4D, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094). 2.1.2

14、Other Government documents, drawinss, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues shall be those in effect on the date of the solicitation. LAWS AND REG

15、ULATIONS U. S. Postal Service Manual (Copies of the Manual may be obtained from the Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, D.C. 20402). 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-1951bG 84 m 9999906 047

16、5097 9 m MIL-C-l9516G(MC) 2.2 Other publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DoD adopted shall be those listed in the issue of the DoDISS specified in the solicitation. Unless

17、otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DoDISS shall be the issue of the nongovernment documents which is current on the date of the solicitation. UNIFORM CLASSIFICATION COMMITTEE Uniform Freight Classification Rules (Application for copies should be addressed to the Uniform C

18、lassification Committee, Room 1106, 222 South Riverside Plaza, Chicago, Illinois 60606). NATIONAL MOTOR FREIGHT TRAFFIC ASSOCIATION, INC., AGENT National Motor Freight Classification (Application for copies should be addressed to the American Trucking Association Inc., Tariff Order Section, 1616 P.

19、Street, N.W., Washington, D.C. 20036). Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Shades for Buttons 1966 Department of Defense (DOD) Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades For Sewing Threads 1968 (Copies may be obtained from the Color Association of ,he United States Inc., 200 Madison Avenue

20、, New York, New York 10016). (Nongovernment standards are generally available for reference from libraries. They are also distributed among technical groups and using Federal agencies). 2.3 Order of precedence, In the event of a conflict between the text of this specification and the references cite

21、d herein, (except for associated detail specifications, specification sheets or MS standards), the text of this specification shall take precedence. Nothing in this specification, however, shall supersede applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 4 Provided by IH

22、SNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-1951bG 4 H 9999906 0475098 O MIL-C-l9516G(MC) 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1 Guide samples. Guide samples are furnished solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variation from this specification ma

23、y appear in the sample, in which case the specification shall govern. 3.2 First article. When specified (see 6.2), the contractor shall furnish sample unit(s) for first article inspection and approval (see 4.4 and 6.4). 3.3 Materials, 3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material shall be cloth, gabardin

24、e, polyester/wool, dark blue shade 2312 (see 6.3), 10.6 ounce, conforming to type II, class 12, of MIL-C-10176. 3.3.2 Lininq. The material for lining the coat, pocket flaps, collar, vent, and collar eyelet covers, shall be cloth, rayon, twill, black shade 3202 (see 6.3), 3.7 ounce, conforming to cla

25、ss I of MIL-C-368. 3.3.3 Polvester and cotton. The material for making the stay pieces for the front pockets, stays for armhole and shoulder seams, binding for the lower edge of collar interlining, and reinforcement pieces for collar eyelets shall be cloth, polyester and cotton conforming to type I

26、of MIL-C-43718 and shall be black. The requirements for nonfibrous material and seam efficiency shall not apply. 3.3.4 Interlininss. 3.3.4.1 Collar Interlininq. The material for interlining the collar shall be cloth, cotton, buckram, double texture, laminated, starch finish, natural color, conformin

27、g to the following when tested as specified in Section 4, Table IV. As an alternate, a 2 ply herringbone (buckram), 86 yarns in warp and 48 yarns in fill, 20-24 ounce weight on 48 inch width produced by Twiss Association, Inc. is acceptable for use in dress coat collars. Additionally, a 3 ply bonded

28、 “Bandstand“ fabric from Pellon; 2 ply cotton style OC125 from Philadelphia Haircloth and a 2 ply cotton from Eagle Buchram are acceptable. cotton of suitable staple length and grade to meet the requirements of this specification, thoroughly cleaned, well carded, drawn and evenly spun. 3.3.4.2 Buckr

29、am material. The buckram shall be made of 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-LqSLbG 84 m 7999906 0475099 2 m MIL-C-l9516G(MC) 3.3.4.3 Weave. The weave of the single plies of the cloth shall be four harness, 2 up and 2 down herrin

30、gbone twill, 20 ends right and 20 ends left or the cloth shall be plain weave. 3,3.4.4 Yarns per inch. The two plies of the cloth shall each have a minimum thread count per inch of 68 in the warp and 48 in the filling. 3.3.4.5 Laminated cloth. The two plies of the cloth shall be thoroughly adhered t

31、ogether with a synthetic resin-type laminating material which shall not cause an objectionable odor in the finished cloth. The laminated cloth shall show no evidence of delamination after being subjected to the wet (dry) cleaning, accelerated aging, and perspiration tests specified in section 4, Tab

32、le IV. 3.3.4.5.1 Finish. The laminated cloth shall have a starch finish. The original stiffness of the finished cloth, and the stiffness of the cloth after being subjected to the wet (dry) cleaning, accelerated aging, and perspiration tests shall conform to the following when tested as specified in

33、section 4, Table IV. Stiffness, inch-pound Minimum Maximum original after accelerated aging after wet (dry) cleaning after perspiration 0.60 0.70 0.50 0.50 0.95 0.95 0.85 0.85 3.3.4.5.2 Weiuht. The weight of the finished laminated cloth shall be 21to 23 ounces per square yard (see section 4, Table I

34、V). 3.3.4.5.3 Breakinu strenath. The breaking strength of the finished laminated cloth shall be 100 pounds minimum in the warp direction and 80 pounds minimum in the filling direction when tested as specified in section 4, Table IV. After being subjected to the accelerated aging test (see section 4,

35、 Table IV), the breaking strength of the cloth shall be not less than the original breaking strength. 3.3.5 Coat Fronts. The coat fronts shall conform to type XI of MIL-C-15065, except that the cotton warp, hairwool filling cloth and the polyester and cotton cloth for the stays shall be dyed black.

36、The dyed polyester and cotton shall show fastness to wet (dry) cleaning only. The dyeing of the cotton warp, hair filling cloth shall be accomplished with a selected direct dye and the dyed cloth shall be after treated, preferably with copper sulfate to meet the requirements specified herein. The dy

37、ed cotton warp, hairwool filling cloth shall show fastness to wet 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-1951bG 84 99999Ob 0475100 5 MIL-C-l9516G(MC) (dry) cleaning, perspiration and steam pressing equal to or better than the standar

38、d sample. When no standard sample is available or has been established, the dyed cotton warp, hairwool filling cloth shall show good fastness to wet (dry) cleaning, perspiration and steam pressing. As an alternate, a 50 percent polyester, 50 percent rayon synthetic haircloth with a black nylon filli

39、ng with 42 picks per inch and 52 ends per inch may be used. The haircloth shall be equal to or better than Crown HC-4 synthetic haircloth. 3.3.5.1 Fusible for coat fronts and back vent (alternate). The coat front and vent may be fused using a woven twill cloth fusible conforming to 100 percent cotto

40、n warp, 75-90 percent rayon, 10-25 percent wool filling, minimum 3.5 to 4.0 ounces maximum weight, polyamide dot coating in a black or charcoal gray shade. 200 FL or Crown Style 241 or equal to or better. conditions shall be as directed by the supplier or as follows: The fusible shall be Kufner Styl

41、e G35 or National Style The following Temperature - 300“-310“F 15 0“- 15 5 “CE Time - 12-15 Seconds Pressure - 4-5 PSI 3.3.5.1.1 Chest Dieces. Construction and application of Components requiring haircloth are the chest chest piece and required components shall be the same as required in MIL-C-15065

42、J. pieces, top front reinforcement pieces and wedge pieces. The flannel felt shall be the same as stated in MIL-C-l5065J, paragraphs 3.3.4.1 and 3.3.4.2. The polyester and cotton cloth required for stays and coverings shall be the same as stated in MIL-C-l5065J, paragraph 3.3.3. 3.3.5.2 Fusible inte

43、rlininu for small parts. The fusible interlining for the facings, flaps, pockets, shoulder straps, collars and sleeve pieces shall be a nonwoven cloth 20 percent nylon, 80 percent polyester, polyamide dot, 1.25 to 1-75 ounces per square yard, shade black or charcoal grey. be Pellon Style 8313, Handl

44、er 7208 or equal to or better. conditions shall be as directed by the supplier or as follows: The fusible shall Fusing Temperature - 280“-290F 14 0“- 145“CE Time - 12-15 Seconds Pressure - 4-6 PSI 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL

45、-C-3953bG 84 m 999990b 0475303 7 3.3.6 Paddinq for collar. The material for padding the collar shall be a suitable cotton felt, white, weighing 4.25 to 4.75 ounces per square yard when tested as specified in section 4, Table IV. As an alternate, a 100 percent polyester needle punch felt, white, weig

46、hing 4.8 to 5.5 ounces per square yard shall be Penn Pad style 5015 or equal - or - a 100 percent polyester nonwoven fabric equal to or better than Pellon Style No. 954, in shade white may be used. 3.3.7 Sleevehead and shoulder pads. The sleevehead pads shall conform to type IV of MIL-P-15064 and th

47、e shoulder pads shall conform to type I, class 2 of MIL-P-15064. 3.3.8 Hanqer braid. The braid for the coat hanger shall be cotton or rayon tubular flat braid 1/8 to 3/16 inch wide, minimum breaking strength 50 pounds, color black conforming to type IX, class 1 of MIL-B-371. 3.3.9 Bias bindinq. The

48、binding for the upper edge of the front pockets, the back edge of the facings, and the raw edge of seam allowance shall be bias cut from the lining material specified in 3.3.2. The binding for the raw edge of seam allowances and back edge of facings shall be 3/4 inch wide, and for the upper edge of

49、the front pockets shall be 1-1/8 inches wide. The binding shall have sized edges. 3.3.10 Pipinq. The material for piping the shoulder straps, the upper and lower edges of the collar, the upper, lower and back edges of ornamental sleeve pieces, and the bottom and left front edges of the coat shall be cloth, broadcloth, wool, scarlet shade 2501 (see 6.3), 16 ounce, conforming to type I or II, of MIL-C-29405. The scarlet piping on the collar