DLA MIL-C-19516 G (1)-1992 COAT MAN-S POLYESTER WOOL GABARDINE BLUE《男式蓝色华达呢涤纶 羊毛》.pdf

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1、I INCH-POUND I MIL-C-l9516G(MC) AMENDMENT-1 ?-F.-. .-: ; a, . .+ i * S.6 . : . Sb. -. i,. MILITARY SPECIFICATION COAT, MANS: POLYESTER/WOOL, GABARDINE; BLUE This amendment forms a part of Military Specification MIL-C- 19516G(MC), dated 6 March 1991, and is available for use by all Departments and Ag

2、encies of the Department of Defense. PAGE 7 3.3.5.1.1 - At the end of operation add the following: “As an alternate, needle punch fabric in lieu of flannel is permitted“. PAGE 8 3.3.9, line 5 - after “3/4“, add “to 1 inch wide“. Line 6 after be“ delete 111-1/8“ and add “1 to 1 1/8“. PAGE 9 3.3.15.1.

3、2, line 4, - after “washer“ add II, composite undercollar cloth, needle punch or felt, may be used“. PAGE 13 Under Pattern Nomenclature, After “item 38“, add the following: “39. Left Front shaper“ . AMSC N/A FSC 8405 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. 1

4、 of 26 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-L95LbG (1) 84 9999906 0528430 7 MIL-C-19516G (MC ) AMENDMENT-1 PAGE 16 Operation 1, paragraph E, 4th line - After number “3/4“ acid “to 1 inch wide“. PAGE 40 Operation 18, last line - Delet

5、e “6“ and substitute “8“. PAGE 48 Operation 29a, line 2 - Delete “wool“. PAGE 69 At end of operation 46i, add the following: “or when the alternate fusible front is used the following operations for the floating chest piece are required: Make floatinq chest piece (see fiqure 10). a. stitch to wedge

6、piece with edges overlapped. piece pattern parts show spread of dart. Spread the shoulder dart on the haircloth chest piece and Notches on wedge 304 FSa-1 or LSa 4-8 70-2 70-2 b. Abut or overlap 1/8 inch of the edge of the neckline and lower armhole darts on the haircloth chest piece and stitch toge

7、ther. 304 FSa-1 or LSa-1 4-8 70-2 70-2 c. corner on the underside of the chest piece. Place the polyester/cotton cloth covering for the front edge on top of the haircloth chest piece with front and neckline edges even. Position the flannel/felt padding on the under side of chest piece and quilt toge

8、ther with vertical rows of stitching 3/8 to 3/4 inch apart and with curved rows toward the armhole. The padding shall extend beyond the armhole and the shoulder portion shall be left open to accommodate the shoulder pads, Position the haircloth reinforcement piece at the top front 304 4-8 70,/2 70/2

9、“ 2 of 26 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-l9516G(MC) AMENDMENT-1 PAGE 76 Operation 54b, line 16 - After “the“ add Iarmhole“. Line 17 , delete “bottom“ and substitute “armhole“. PAGE 79 Operation 59, line 15 - After “for“ delete

10、“size 35 to 46“ and substitute “all larger sizes“. PAGE 93 Operation 72d, line 7 - Delete “55“ and substitute t56. PAGE 109 Table IV, Test Methods under “Rqmt. Para.“ for “Material Identification“ , delete I 3.3.5“ and substitute Il3.3.6 II . “Rqmt. Para“ for “Weight - oz. per sq. yd. II , delete “3

11、.3.5“ and substitute “3.3.6“ . Under “Rqmt Para. II for “Color“ , delete “3.3.5“ and substitute “3.3.6“. Under PAGE 111 4.5.3, under “Coat Size (S)“ above “30 - 33“ add “30 - 31“. Second line delete “30 - 33“ and substitute “32 - 33“. under “Form Size“ above “30“ add “28“. PAGE 125 Defect C 6, Line

12、3. - After “Pleat:“ delete remainder of table and add the following new information: 3 of 26 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-l9516G(MC) AMENDMENT-1 Classification Examine Defect Maior (*) - more than 3/16 inch - more than 1/4 in

13、ch 7. Top edge of flap not positioned midway between second and third buttonholes it 3/16 inch. 129 130 17 Minor A B NOTE: Pockets must be in horizontal alignment with each other as required. 8. Staypiece not tacked or not securely tacked to interlining across top edge of front center 9. Polyester a

14、nd cotton staypiece omitted on underside of one or both pockets. 10. Top edge of pocket less than 3/8 inch or more than 5/8 inch below the top stitching of flap. crooked. 11. Top edge of flap i. Upper pockets. 1. Binding on top edge omitted or not securely caught to fabric, causing binding to pull a

15、way from fabric. 2. One or both pocket corners not securely tacked. 3. Pleat off center 1/4 inch or more at lower edge of flap. 4. Pleat formed crookedly, affecting appearance, 5. Poorly shaped, not in conformity with pocket shaper , -31 18 272 273 274 275 276 336 337 - 4 of 26 Provided by IHSNot fo

16、r ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-l9516G(MC) AMENDMENT-1 xarnine Defect Classification 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. Constructed with fold of pleat on the under- side. Pleat less than 1-1/8 inches or more than 1-3/8 inches wide (sizes Pleat less

17、 than i-3/8 inches or more than 1-5/8 inches wide (sizes Front edge of pleat below flap not parallel with front edge of pocket by more than 3/16 inch. Pleat not stitched closed. Bottoms of pockets out of horizontal alignment by : - 1/4 inch or more but not more than 3/8 inch. - more than 3/8 inch. F

18、ront edge of pocket not parallel with front edge of coat when buttoned by: O - 3/16 inch or more but not more than 1/4 inch. - niore than 1/4 inch. Excessive fullness or tightness at pocket opening, affecting appearance. Button and buttonhole not aligned, causing noticeable bulge or twist on pocket

19、or flap when buttoned, affecting appearance. lower corner of pocket not trimmed. 30-35). 36-46). Maior i32 133 134 Minor B A !77 278 279 280 281 281 - i38 139 340 5 of 26 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-Examine Defect Classitication M

20、ajor (*) Minor e. Upper pockets and flaps measurements: 1. Length of flap (at center point), length of flap (at sides), width of pocket (at top edge, side to side edge), width of pocket (at bottom edge, side to side edge), length of pocket (top to bottom edge). Any of the above dimensions and tolera

21、nces included in Table III: Exceeding the 2 1/8 incl tolerance E. Lower pocket flaps (position): 1. Out of horizontal alignment by 3/16 inch but not more than 3/8 inch, - more than 3/8 inch pocket opening: - Front corner of 1 or both pockets. - back corner of 1 pocket. - back corner of both pockets.

22、 3. Lower side edge of flap extending beyond or both edges of or both pockets by more than 3/16 inch. 2. Flap not covering 6 of 26 84 m 9999906 0528434 4 m MIL-C-19516G(MC) MENDMENT- L35 .36 .37 A - 18; 83 - B - 41 42 I Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without lic

23、ense from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-l9516G(MC) AMENDMENT-1 Cxamine 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. Defect Classification Front edge of flap out of vertical alignment with front edge of upper pocket 1/4 inch or more. Lower side edge of flap (excluding rounded corners) not covering side edge of pocket by 1/8 inch or more b

24、ut not more than 1/4 inch: - front edge of 1 or both pockets. - back edge of 1 or both pockets. More than 1/4 inch: - front edge of 1 or both pockets. - back edge of 1 or both pockets. Front edge of flaps not parallel with front edge of coat by 1/4 inch or more when coat is buttoned. Polyester and c

25、otton staypiece not tacked or not securely tacked interlining at front corner. Polyester and cotton staypiece omitted on underside of 1 or both pockets. Top edge of flap not parallel with the waist seam by 1/4 inch or more. g. Lower pockets: Maior 138 (*) Minor B A 184 285 286 287 288 289 290 - - 34

26、3 7 of 26 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-L95LbG (1) 84 W 999990b 0528436 8 W 39 41) A MIL-C-l9516G(MC) AMENDMENT-1 29 29 29: !9L 95 96 !97 Examine I - 14 i45 Defects 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. Binding on top edge omitted or not se

27、curely caught in fabric, causing binding to pull away from fabric. One or both pocket corners not securely stitched. Pockets poorly shaped, not in conformity with pocket shaper. Distance between bottom edge of lower pocket and bottom edge of coat: - less than 1 inch but not less than 3/4 inch. - les

28、s than 3/4 inch. Bottom edge of pocket not parallel with bottom edge of coat by: - 1/4 inch or more but not more than 3/8 inch. - more than 3/8 inch. Bottoms of pockets out of horizontal alignment by: - more than 1/4 inch but not more than 1/2 inch. - more t.han 112 inch. Excessive fullness or tight

29、ness at pocket opening, affecting appearance. Diagonal position of pocket (front edge from directly below flap to bottom edge) with front edge of coat. - parallel with front edge. - slanted more than 3/8 inch from front J 8 of 26 Classification Major (*) 19 Minor A Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo re

30、production or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-l9516G(MC) AMENDMENT-1 Sxamine Shoulder (construc- tion) Shoulder pads Defect edge (i.e., towards side seam). - slanted 1/8 inch or more towards front edge. 9. Button and buttonhole not aligned, causing noticeable bulge or twist o

31、n pocket or flap. h. Lower pockets and flaps measurements: 1. Length of flap (at center point), length of flap (at sides), width of flap (at top edge, side to side edge), width of pocket at bottom edge, (side edge to side edge) length of pocket (top to bottom edge) for Short, Regular Long and X-Long

32、. Any of the above dimen- sions varying from nom- inal dimensions and tol- erances included in Table III: Exceeding the - + 1/8 inch tolerance. Improper joined or set, causing shoulders or back to twist. a. Not completely caught in armhole tacking. b. Misplaced, not serving intended purpose, i.e., t

33、oo far back or too far forward. c. One or both pads omitted. Classification Maior (*) 141 142 143 20 Minor B A 298 299 300 9 of 26 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-L95LbG (1) 84 9999906 0528438 II MIL-C-l9516G(MC) AMENDMENT-1 Exa

34、mine Shoulder straps Defect Classification a. Misplaced, i.e., one strap further forward or back from position of other strap affecting appearance. b. Strap stitched to coat too full or twisted, or stitched to coat too tight, causing fullness or twist on front or back of coat. c. Poorly shaped. d. S

35、houlder seam exposed beyond back edge of shoulder strap (except rounded end). e. Width of shoulder strap at armhole seam (including piping j : - less than 2-1/4 inches but not less than 2-1/8 inches. - more than 2-1/2 inches but not more than 2-5/8 inches. - less than 2-1/8 inches or more than 2-5/8

36、 inches. f. Width of shoulder strap axoss center of insignia button (including piping): - less than 1-1/2 inches but not less than 1-3/8 inches. - more than 2 inches but not more than 2-1/8 inches. - less than 1-3/8 inches or more than 2-1/8 inches. Major (*) 144 145 10 of 26 Minor B A 201 202 203 1

37、04 346 347 348 349 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-l9516G(MC) AMENDMENT-1 Examine Armholes (construc- tion) Defect Classification 9. h. i. ja a. b. C. d. e. f. 9. Rounded end of shoulder strap positioned less than 1/4 inch or mo

38、re than 3/8 inch from collar edge. Piping irregular in width, affecting appearance. Buttons not uniformly set from collar edge by more than lk4 inch. Center of buttons less than 3/4 inch or more than 7/8 inch from rounded end of strap (including piping). Badly stretched. Taped too tight, causing puc

39、kering around armhole seam, affecting appearance. Crooked seam. Tape stitching exposed and visible on outside surface. Sleeve head pads not com- pletely tacked to armholes, or misplaced, not serving intended purpose. One or both sleeve head pads omitted. Armhole not tacked com- pletely or insecurely

40、 tacked. Maior 21 22 Minor A 205a 206a 207a 208a 209a B 350 351 352 353 11 of 26 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-l9516G(MC) AMENDMENT-1 3xamine Sleeves Defect Classification i. Setting and hang: 3 1. 2. 3. 4 5. Sleeve fullness m

41、is- placed, affecting appearance. Sleeve too far front, i.e., front edge of sleeve less than 1 inch more than 2-1/2 inches from center point of lower pocket flap button. Sleeve too far back, i.e., front edge of sleeve more than 1 to 2-1/2 inch back from center point of lower pocket flap button. Hang

42、 of sleeves in opposite directions, i.e., one sleeve too far forward and one sleeve too far back, tolerance of 1-1/2 inches. Sleeves tight in arm hole, i.e., roll effect not present at front or back of sleeve. Sleeve lining: 1. Twisted, tight or short, causing bulge, twist or puckering on outside of

43、 sleeves. 2. Sleeve lining too long, causing lining to sag at bottom more than 1/2 inch. Ma j or (*I 23 24 25 26 27 Minor B A 2lOa - 354 12of 26 e Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-LSLhG (1) 84 99Ob 052844L L = MIL-C-l9516G(MC) AM

44、ENDMENT-1 Zxamine Defects Classification 3. Sleeve lining seams out of alignment more than 3/8 inch with sleeve seams at arm holes or at bottom of sleeves. 2. Construction of sleeves: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Wigan twisted, tight, or pleated, causing ridges or puckering on outside of bottom of sleeves, affect

45、ing appearance. Tacking on bottom turn- up to wigan omitted or insecure. Sleeve bottom edge uneven by more than 1/4 inch. Tacking on 1 or both sleeve lining seams to sleeve seams omitted or insecure. Bottom edge of sleeve lining turnup less than 1 inch or more than 1-1/2 inches up from bottom edge o

46、f sleeve. d. Ornamental sleeve pieces: 1. Piping irregular, affecting appearance. 2. Ornamental piece stitched to sleeve too full or twisted, affecting appearance. 3. Length of ornamental piece (including piping) - less than 5-7/8 inches or more than 6-3/8 inches. Major 146 Minor AB 211a 212a 213a 2

47、14a - I55 356 357 358 - 13 of 26 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-l9516G(MC) AMENDMENT-1 Examine Defect 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. Width at top, center, and bottom points (including piping): - less than 2-3/8 inches or more than 2-7/8 inc

48、hes. Poorly shaped, affect- ing appearance. Set on crookedly, affecting appearance. Misplaced, i.e., one piece further forward or back from position of other piece, affecting appearance. Bottom edge not horizontal with bottom edge of sleeve by more than 1/8 inch or edge extends beyond bottom edge of sleeve. Ornamental piece stitch- ed to sleeve with pointed ends toward forearm seam of sleeve. 2. Position of buttons on ornamental pieces (measure- ments made from center of button) : 1. From top and bottom edges (including piped edge ) : - less than 3/4 inch but not less than 1/2 inch.