DLA A-A-55265-1995 JACKET FLYER-S A-2 LEATHER《A-2飞行员皮革外套》.pdf

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1、4 - Beneficial comments, recommendations, additions, deletions, clarifications, etc. and any data which may improve this document should be sent to: Defense Personnel Support Center, Clothing and Textiles Directorate, Attn: DPSC-FQSD, 2800 South 20th Street, Philadelphia, PA 19145-5099. A-A-55 2 65

2、9999974 0366286 362 I INCH-POUND I A-A- 5 5 2 6 5 February 16, 1995 COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTION JACKET, FLYERS, A-2 LEATHER The General Services Administration has authorized the use of this commercial item description. 1. SCOPE. This comercial item description covers the requirements for a leather

3、jacket used by Air Force personnel. 2. CLASSIFICATION. The jacket shall be of one class and one type. 3. SALIENT CHARACTERISTICS 3.1 DescriDtion. The jacket shall be fabricated from garment grade goatskin leather with a rayon or a blend of polyester and cotton or polyester and rayon lining. patch po

4、ckets horizontally aligned with flaps that close with unexposed snap fasteners having reinforcement pieces inside the pockets and pocket flaps; a fly front with a slide fastener closure; a leather thong pull-knotted through a pull tab; hook and eye closure at neck; knitted cuffs and a knitted waistb

5、and; a leather hanger caught in the back neck seam; two shoulder loops with a four-inch opening with two rows of stitching, 3/16 inch apart, all-around anci box stitching on each end (Figure 1); It shall have two front FSC 8415 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is u

6、nlimited. Licensed by Information Handling Services A-A-55265 W 9999974 0366287 2T9 A-A- 5 5 2 6 5 a snap-down-flat collar (the collar does not contain a collarstand) of a one-piece topcollar and one or two piece undercollar with reinforcement pieces inside the collar at each snap location, and the

7、collar shall be stitched at the break, across the length of the undercollar, end to end; loop fastener tape for the command patch on right chest front (Figure 2); and loop fastener tape for the name plate on left chest front (Figure 3). The command patch and the name plate shall be attached to the j

8、acket prior to putting the lining in the jacket and shall be centered between the sleeve seam and the center of the overflap (Figure 4). The position for the placement of the top of the command patch and the name plate above the pocket flap shall be located by measuring the distance between the top

9、of the pocket flap and the collar joining seam, on the slide fastener over flap, then take one-half of this measurement and add two inches (- + 1/4 inch). The slide fastener shall be brass with a natural finish and the tape shall approximate the shade of the leather. fastener shall be positioned 1/2

10、 i 1/8 inch from the bottom of the jacket and 1/2 + O, - 1/8 inch from the top of the jacket. The slide fastener shall have a leather thong pull knotted through the pull tab. leather approximately 1/4 inch wide by 6-1/2 inches long. The goatskin leather hanger shall be approximately 3 inches long by

11、 1/4 inch wide. seam of the jacket with the ends at least 1 inch apart. The hanger shall not extend above the collar. The hook and eye fastener shall be brass with a black enamel finish. The hook shall be placed on the left front placket approximately 3/8 inch from the top and 3/4 inch in from the f

12、ront outeredge. The eye shall be placed on the right jacket front approximately 3/8 inch from collar joining seam and 5/8 inch from the front jacket edge. (Hook and eye shall be in alignment ) garment grade leather. The leather shall be a soft, pliable, full-grain, chrome-tanned with the flesh side

13、smooth and free from loose flesh. The leather shall be uniform in grade, texture, and shade. The finished thickness shall be 0.7 to 0.9 mm when tested in accordance with test method 1021.1 of FED-STD-311. The shade of the leather shall match Brown, Air Force shade number 1621. The leather shall have

14、 a minimum rating of 9 for colorfastness to crocking when tested in accordance with method 3031.1 of FED-STD-311. The slide The thong shall be a cut strip of goatskin The hanger shall be caught in the back neck 3.2 Basic material. The basic material for the jacket shall be t Licensed by Information

15、Handling ServicesA-A-5 5 26 5 3.3 Linina material. The lining material for the jacket shall be 100 percent rayon, or a blend of polyester and rayon or polyester and cotton. 4.5 ounces per square yard when tested in accordance with ASTM D-3776. The weave shall be 2/1 right hand twill or a plain weave

16、. goatskin leather. than 2 percent in the warp or filling when tested in accordance with AATCC 158. The cloth shall have a minimum rating of 4 for colorfastness to drycleaning when tested in accordance with AATCC 132 and a minimum rating of 2.5 for colorfastness to crocking when tested in accordance

17、 wAth AATCC 8. The cloth shall have a weight of 3.5 to The lining color shall approximate the shade of the The cloth shall not shrink or elongate more 3.4 Knitted cuffs and waistband. The cuffs and waistband shall be a 1 X 1 rib knit cloth, 2-ply, 100 percent cotton yarn, or a blend of cotton and po

18、lyester. They shall have a minimum of 13 wales per inch and a minimum of 17 courses per inch. The cuffs shall have a seamless construction, doubled to finish 4 to 4-1/4 inches in length (wale direction). The waistband shall be doubled to finish the ends of a tuck, or expand stitching approximately 2

19、 inches in length on each end of the 1 x 1 rib construction. The shade of the cuffs and waistband shall approximate the shade of the outershell material. alternate, a 100 percent acrylic, with elastic knitted on the bottom bands, ctr 100 percent polyester may be used as long as rubber is used in the

20、 bands t.0 enhance the shape retention. As an 3.5 Thread. The thread shall be a 3-ply bonded nylon. The color of the thread shall approximate the leather outershell. The thread shall have a minimum breaking strength of 9.0 pounds, and a maximum elongation of 26 percent when tested in accordance with

21、 ASTM D-204, Section 12. 3.6 Snap fastener. The snap fastener shall be a wire-spring, clamp-type in a brass color. of a 24-line size button and socket, and the male component shall consist of a stud and eyelet. The female component shall consist 3.7 LOOR fastener tapes. The loop fastener tape shall

22、be all nylon and shall approximate the shade of the goatskin leather. The tape shall be either or8 piece or with one seam. The tape shall conform to the requirements in Table I. 3 Licensed by Information Handling ServicesA-A-55265 i4 OLbb289 071 A-A-5 5 2 6 5 TABLE I. LOOP fastener tape reuuirements

23、 Characteristic Widths (inches) Picks/inch Ground ends/tape Loops/tape Grams/linear yard Breaking strength (pounds, minimum) - 4 51 590 120 18.0 350 Requirements - 2 51 298 65 11.2 205 L-1/2 51 228 47 8.6 150 - 1 51 149 28 5.6 95 3/4 51 110 19 4.3 65 5/8 51 94 15 3.5 60 7 Test method ASTM D 3774 AST

24、M D 3775 ASTM D 3775 ASTM D 3775 ASTM D 3776 ASTM D 5034 3.8 Sizes and measurements. The to the measurements in Table II. finished jacket shall conform TABLE II. Finished measurements fin inches) Size Short 36 38 40 42 44 46 40 Reaular 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 21-1/2 22-1/2 23-1/2 24-1/2 25-1/2 26-1/2 2

25、7-1/2 21-1/2 22-1/2 23-1/2 24-1/2 25-1/2 26-1/2 27-1/2 Back length 2/ 21 21-1/4 21-1/2 21-3/4 22 22-1/4 22-1/2 22 22-1/4 22-1/2 22-3/4 23 23-1/4 23-1/2 sleeve inseam a/ 18 18 18 18 18 18 18 19 19 19 19 19 19 19 4 Licensed by Information Handling ServicesA-A-55 26 5 Back length 2/ TABLE II. Finished

26、measurements (in inches) (contd.) Sleeve Inseam a/ Size Lonq 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 1/2 Chest I/ 21-1/2 22-1/2 23-1/2 24-1/2 25-1/2 26-1/2 27-1/2 23 23-1/4 23-1/2 23-3/4 24 24-1/4 24-1/2 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 - 1/ - 2/ - 3/ 1/2 chest - Measure with slide fastener closed from folded edge at base of armh

27、ole across chest. Back lenath - Measure at center back from collar setting seam to bottom edge of outershell. Sleeve inseam - Measure from base of armhole to end of sleeve outershell. 3.9 Labels. A commercial-type label is acceptable, provided that an additional printed cloth label containing the co

28、ntractors name, contract number, size and National Stock Number (NSN) is caught on the stitching of the commercial label. The commercial label shall include fiber and drycleaning information. 3.10 Label/taq. Each item shall be individually bar-coded with a paper tag for personal clothing items. The

29、paper tag shall be standard bleached sulfate having a basis weight of 100 pounds. The paper used for the tags shall have a smooth finish to accept thermal transfer and direct printing. The tags shall have a hole and shall be attached to each item by a fastener, clearly legible and readable by a scan

30、ner. The bar coding element shall be a 13 digit national stock number (NSN). The bar code type shall be a medium to high code density and shall be located so that it is completely visible on the item when it is folded and/or packaged as specified and so that it causes no damage to the item. 4. REGUL

31、ATORY REOUIREMENTS. The offeror/contractor is encouraged to use recovered materials to the maximum extent practicable, in accordance with paragraph 23.403 of the Federal Acquisition Regulation (FAR). 5 Licensed by Information Handling Services A-A-55265 M 9999974 OLbb29L 72T = A-A-5 5 2 6 5 5. QUALI

32、TY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS 5.1 Certification. The contractor shall certify and maintain substantiating evidence that the product offered meets the salient characteristics of this description; conforms to the producers own drawings, specifications, standards and quality assurance practices; and is the s

33、ame product offered for sale in the comercial marketplace. The Government reserves the right to require proof of such conformance prior to the first delivery and thereafter as may be otherwise provided for under the provisions of the contract. 5.2 Market acceotabilitv criteria. The item offered must

34、 have been sold to the comercial market or to the Government, and the contractor shall certify and provide supporting documentation as to its serviceability and the long term (five years) availability of all necessary maintenance and logistics support parts and materials. 5.3 Warrantv. The item offe

35、red shall include the standard warranty given to the comercial market beginning with the date of delivery of the individual items. 5.4 Visual examination. The jacket shall be examined for the defects listed below. 5.4.1 Defects. Any grain crack, loose flesh, brand, tick mark, vein, stretch, wrinkles

36、; thin or spongy areas, not uniform in grade texture or shade; any hole, cut, tear, blemish, needle chew; color not as specified or shaded parts when required to be cut from one piece of material; any spot or stain (outside); raw edges, open seams, thread ends not removed or loose tension resulting

37、in loose seams; any material defects, distorted parts or poor workmanship; any component part omitted or not as specified; shoulder loop opening greater than 4-1/4 2 1/2 inches or less than 4 2 1/2 inches; pockets horizontally misaligned; command patch or name plate not in horizontal alignment on th

38、e jacket; above collar; shaded parts, collar or undercollar edge exposed, open seams; label missing, incorrect, or illegible; measurement of itemnot as Specified; bar code omitted or not readable by scanner; human-readable interpretation (HRI) omitted or illegible; bar code not visible on folded, pa

39、ckaged item; bar code causes damage to the item; any item not packaged in accordance with the contract or purchase order. slide fastener operation not smooth; hanger extends 6. PACKAGING 6.1 Preservatlon, packina, and markinq. The jacket shall be packaged and packed in accordance with good commercia

40、l practice, and shipped on comercial 4-way pallets. 6 Licensed by Information Handling ServicesA-A-55 2 6 5 7. NOTES 7.1 Sources of sunlv for OOR fastener tapes A. Meyers Son and Corp. 325 West 38th Street New York, NY 10018 Velcro USA, Inc. P. O. Box 55216 406 Brown Avenue Manchester, NH 03106 Brow

41、n Pile #25 1, 2, 3 or 4-inch wide tape Brown Pile #250 1 or 2-inch wide tape 2-1/2 or 4-inch wide Lock velcro knit 7.2 Source of Government documents. Copies of military and Federal documents are available from: Standardization Documents Order Desk Bldg. 4D 700 Robbins Avenue Philadelphia, PA 19111-

42、5094 7.3 Source of non-Government documents ASTM Test Methods (Applications for copies should be addressed to American Society For Testing and Materials, 1916 Race Street, Philadelphia, PA 19103-1187.) AATCC Test Methods (Applications for copies should be addressed to American Association of Textile

43、 Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), P. O. Box 12215, Triangle Park, NC 27709-2215.) Custodian: Air Force - 45 Review Activity: Air Force - 82, 32 Civil Agency Coordinating Activity : GSA - FSS Preparing Activity: DLA - CT Project No. 8415-0894 7 Licensed by Information Handling ServicesA-A-55265 FIGURE -. 2. CO- PATCH Licensed by Information Handling ServicesA-A-55265 A-A-33L O 3 9999974 0366274 439 . CHAPS I - .- c . - .* 1. FIG1 TRE 3. NAME PLATE -. 2-3/8 (-1/8, +O) lXCHES 4-3/8 (-1/8, +O) INCHES BY SHOULDER Loop JACKET,&YERS, A-2 LEATHER Licensed by Information Handling Services