DLA A-A-55260-1994 COAT ALL-WEATHER MEN-S《男式全天候外套》.pdf

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1、A - A-55 2 b O 9999974 03b5382 700 I INCH-POUND I A-A-55260 tober 12. 1994 COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTION COAT, ALL-WEATHER, MENS The General Services Administration has authorized the use of this commercial item description for all Federal agencies. 1. SCOPE. This commercial item description covers th

2、e requirements for mens all- weather coats made of water-repellent-treated polyester/cotton poplin with a removable liner. 2. CLASSIFICATION. The coat shall be in the following classes: Class 1 - Marine Corps Pewter 2246 Class 2 - Army Black 385 3. SALIENT CHARACTERISTICS 3.1 DescriDtion. The coat s

3、hall be as shown in Figures 1 through 7. The coat shall have a double-breasted front with six (6) buttons and a button throat closure, interlined collar; front and back yoke lining; bound front facing; set-in sleeves; and interlined, pointed, button-down shoulder and sleeve straps. The coat shall ha

4、ve a right front flap (gun patch), two vertical welt pockets with pass-through slits, center back box pleated vent, and a half cape back. The coats shall be well pressed throughout. All wrinkles, creases, or pressing impressions shall be removed, and there shall be no excess gloss or scorching. 3.1.

5、1 The coat shall have four (4) belt loops to support a pointed belt. The belt shall have a buttoned belt anchor on the left side with a belt-loop keeper, fused interlining, and a buckle. 3.1.2 Each shoulder strap shall be positioned with the back finished edge approximately 1/2 inch behind and in li

6、ne with the shoulder seam and with the point end even with the collar setting seam. Beneficial comments, recommendations, additions, deletions, clarifications, etc. and any data which may improve this document should be sent to: Defense Personnel Support Center, Attn: DPSC-FQSD, 2800 South 20th Stre

7、et, Philadelphia, PA 19145-0530. AMSC N/A FSC 8405 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55260 m 9999974 0165383 b47 m A- A-552 60 3.1.3 The coat shall ha

8、ve eight 45-line buttons: three buttons for each front, one shank- wrapped button on the inside left front to properly engage buttonhole on the right front lapel, one button on the upper right front to correspond with the left lapel buttonhole to provide a smooth closure with the ends of the collar

9、meeting at the neck and not overlapping or spread apart more than 1/2 inch. The buttons on the right front only shall be set on a stand, attached to an 18-line stay button inside, and then shank-wrapped. The buttons on the left front shall not be shanked wrapped, but will have a stay button and shal

10、l be sewn with a normal tight stitch. The coat shall have four 30-line buttons (one on each sleeve, and one on each shoulder- slightly forward of the shoulder seam for proper alignment with the shoulder strap buttonhole. There shall be one 24-line button sewn on each sleeve lining to correspond with

11、 a loop or buttonhole on the removable liner sleeve bottom, and one on the belt for the fastener. The class 2 coats shall have one extra 30-line and one extra 45-line button sewn on the lower inside right facing. 3.1.4 The buttonholes shall be a horizontal eyelet and square-bar type of worked- over

12、gimp with ends of gimp pulled through the underside. As indicated by the marker, three 1-1/4 inch horizontal buttonholes shall be on the left front, one on the right front, and one on each lapel. Each epaulet and sleeve tab shall also have a 7/8-inch, eyelet- end, square-bar type buttonhole in accor

13、dance with pattern marks. 3.1.5 The coat shall have a removable, zip-out liner. The liner shall have bound edges, set-in sleeves, two bound pass-through pocket slits and a center vent. The liners sleeve bottom shall also be bound, forming a button loop on the underarm sleeve seam. 3.1.6 Seams and st

14、itches. All seams shall have 10-12 stitches per inch, with the exception of overedge stitching, which shall have 6-12 stitches per inch. The following seams shall be overedge stitched: raw edge of turned sleeve strap, yoke lining joining seams, sleeve lining seams, coat shoulder seams, coat sleeve u

15、nder arm sleeve, liner joining seams, and coat armhole seams. Hem top stitching shall be as follows: coat bottom hem 7/8 inch from edge, yoke lining hem 1/2 inch from edge. Center back and side seams of the coat shall be lapped, utilizing fused seam webbing. The shoulder straps, sleeve straps, colla

16、r pocket welt, chest (gun) patch, back yoke, back seam, side seams, belt, top and front edges of the lapel, and front edges of the coat and sleeve seams shall be double-stitched 1/16 inch from the edge with a 1/4-inch gage. The following components shall be bartacked: one end of belt anchor to belt,

17、 belt keeper to inside of belt, top and bottom edges of belt loops to coat, and lower edge of front yoke linings to side seam of coat. The coat shall have a triangle of topstitching on center back, centered immediately above the back vent, extending the full width of the pleat. 3.2 Material. The bas

18、ic material for the body and body lining of the coat shall be water- repellent-treated 65 percent polyester/35 percent cotton poplin cloth conforming to A-A-50531. The color shall match Pewter 2246 for class 1 or Black 385 for class 2. 3.2.1 The material for the bias cut binding for the back edge of

19、 the facing, edges of liner, bottom edges of sleeve liner, and lining for the sleeves shall be a nylon taffeta, Pewter 2246 for class 1 and Black 385 for class 2, continuous filament 70 denier 1.9 (+O. 15) oz./sq. yd. when tested in accordance with ASTM D-3776. The material shall have a minimum of 1

20、00 yarns per inch in the warp direction and 68 yarns per inch in the filling direction when tested in accordance with ASTM D-3775. 3.2.2 The hanger loop shall be made of the basic fabric specified, or shall be cotton or rayon braid 1/8 to 3/16 inch wide, flat (minimum breaking strength, 50 lbs. when

21、 tested in accordance with ASTM D-5034). The hanger loop shall match the basic fabric shade. 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55260 9999974 OLb5384 583 3.2.3 The material fur the liner shall be rayon- or cotton-backed satin cloth

22、 conforming to type I of A-A-52074. The color shall be Marine Corps pewter shade to approximate the shade of the basic fabric for class 1 coats, and shall be black for class 2 coats. 3.2.4 Fusible interlining 3.2.4.1 Non-woven. The interlining for the front facing, front flaps, topcollar, collar sta

23、nd, pocket welts, shoulder straps, sleeve straps, sleeve tumup, and belt shall be a nonwoven fusible cloth of 85 percent polyester, 15 percent polyamide or 100 percent polyester, 1.75 ounces to 2.0 ounces per square yard, polyamide dot equal to or better than Pellon Style 8416, 8335 or Handler Style

24、 No. 71915. The color shall be charcoal for class 1 and charcoal or black for class 2, and shall show a colorfastness to dry cleaning (3 cycles) rating of 3.0 when tested in accordance with AATCC 132. For optimum results, specific fuse times and settings should be obtained from the manufacturer of t

25、he non-woven fusible. stand shall be 100 percent cotton, plain weave cloth. The color shall be charcoal or black, and shall show a colorfastness to dry cleaning (3 cycles) rating of 3.0 when tested in accordance with AATCC 132. The fusible adhesive shall be applied to one side in uniform dot pattern

26、 in accordance with good commercial practice. The finished fusible shall weigh from 5.5 to 6.5 oz./sq. yd. when tested in accordance with ASTM D-3776. For optimum results, specific fuse times and settings should be obtained from the manufacturer of the interlining. 3.2.4.2 Alternate woven (Class 2 o

27、nly). The alternate fusible interlining for the collar 3.2.5 Seam tape. The tape for topstitched seams shall conform to type IX, style A, class 1 or 2 of MIL-C-44296. The color shall be natural. For optimum results, specific fuse times and settings should be obtained from the manufacturer of the fus

28、ible web. thread conforming to type I, size 50 for needle and 50 or 70 for bobbin or looper in A-A-50199. Size 30 shall be used for button sewing. The color shall be shade Taupe A CA 66030 for class 1, and shade Black AA, CA 66043 for class 2. The thread shall be treated with an approved “Quarpel ty

29、pe“ water repellent. 3.2.6 Thread. The thread for seaming and stitching shall be cotton wrap polyester core 3.2.7 Ginip. The gimp for reinforcing buttonholes shall be cotton, Taupe A CA 66030 for class 1, and Black AA CA 66043 for class 2 coats, conforming to size No. 8, type I or II of A-A-50198. T

30、he gimp shall show “good“ colorfastness to dry cleaning when tested as specified in A-A-50198. 3.2.8 Buttons. The buttons shall have a glossy finish and shall be Green AF CA 62017 for class 1, and Black CA, CT 62001 for class 2 coats. The buttons shall be sewing-hole buttons of a melamine formaldehy

31、de composition conforming to type II, class D of V-B-871 in the following styles and sizes: 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55260 = 9999974 0165385 41T = A-A-55260 Front, inside anchor Sleeve, shoulder strap Sleeve liner and bel

32、t Stay Extra buttons (class 2 only) Style Sizes 20 or 21 45 20 or21 30 20 or 21 24 15 18 20 or 21 30 and 45 3.2.9 Buckles. The plastic buckle for the belt shall be a 2-1/4 inch general purpose (melamine) buckle conforming to class 2 of MIL-B-1860. The color shall be Green AF, CA 62017 for class 1, a

33、nd Black CA, CT 62001 for class 2 coats. 3.2.10 Slide fastener. The slide fastener for the coat and removable liner shall be a separating, non-reversible, right-hand, light size, short tab pull and aluminum or brass chain of V-F-106. The tape shall approximate shade Sage Green AH, CA 66533 for class

34、 1 and Black G, CA 66507 for class 2 coats, and may be 7/16 or 3/4 inch wide. The ends of the slide fastener shall be equidistant from the bottom edge of the coat. The lengths of the slide fasteners shall conform to the size coat and shall range from 77 to 87 inches long for extra short to extra lon

35、g sizes. 3.3 Labels. A commercial-type label is acceptable, provided that an additional printed cloth label containing the contractors name, contract number, size and National Stock Number (NSN) is caught on the stitching of the commercial label. The commercial label shall include fiber content and

36、the following laundering information: Cleaning Instructions Dry Clean Only Special Instructions: After each dry cleaning, professionally retreat coat for water repellency 3.4 Label/tag. Each item shall be individually bar-coded with the type VIII, class 17 label/tag of DDD-L-20. This labelhag shall

37、be located so that it is completely visible on the item when it is folded and/or packaged as specified and so that it causes no damage to the item. 3.5 Measurements. The finished coats shall conform to the following measurements, which are expressed in inches: 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo repro

38、duction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A- A-55260 = 999997 0165386 356 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55260 - 999997q 0165387 292 W A- A-55260 - 1 Chest measurement taken with coat buttoned from folded edg

39、e in line with pit of armhole and multiplied by two. - 21 Back length measurement taken along center back seam from lower edge of undercollar to bottom edge of coat. - 31 Sleeve length measurement taken along forearm seams from pit of armhole to bottom end of sleeve. - 41 Belt length measurement sha

40、ll be taken along the center from end to end. 3.5.1 Liner measurements. The liner shall conform to the following measurements, Back Sleeve Size Chest Length Length expressed in inches: EXTRA SHORT 32 34 36 38 40 42 SHORT 30 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 30 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 REGULAR 6 4 LONG 32 34

41、 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 33 35 37 39 41 43 31 33 35 37 39 41 43 45 47 31 33 35 37 39 41 43 45 47 49 33 35 37 39 41 43 45 47 49 33 33- 1 I4 33-112 33-314 34 34- 114 34-314 35 35-114 35-112 35-314 36 36- 114 36-112 36-3/4 36-314 37 37- 1 I4 37-112 37-314 38 38-114 38-112 38-314 39 39-112 39-314 40 40- 11

42、4 40- 112 40-314 41-114 41-112 41 14 14 14 14 14 14 15 15 15 15 15 15 15 15 15 16 16 16 16 16 16 16 16 16 16 17 17 17 17 17 17 17 17 17 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55260 9999974 0165388 129 A-A-55260 Size EXTRA LONG 34 36 38

43、 40 42 44 46 48 Chest 35 37 39 41 43 45 47 49 Back length 42-114 42-112 42-314 43 43-114 43-112 43-314 44 Sleeve length 17-314 17-314 17-314 17-314 17-3/4 17-314 17-314 17-3/4 Tolerance 314 112 1 /2 NOTE: The liner shall be placed flat on a table and measured as listed below: 11 Chest measurement ta

44、ken with liner folded in half (down center back) and measured from front bound edge to back folded edge in line with pit of armhole and multiplied by two. - 21 Back length taken along the center back neck edge to bottom of liner. 3 I Sleeve length measurement taken along the underarm seams from pit

45、of armhole tothe bottom of sleeve. 3.6 Workmanship. The finished coats shall conform to the quality of product established by this document. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the contractors own quality assurance standards and the quality assurance standards defined by the technical data in

46、 the bid package. 3.7 Patterns. The Government shall furnish a single size pattern. The contractor is responsible for grading patterns for additional sizes. The pattern generally provides for a seam allowance of 1/4 inch for seams at the edge of shoulder strap, collar, sleeve straps, belt, and facin

47、g to front , 3/8 inch for safety stitched seams and 1/2 inch seam allowance for double lapped, double stitched seams. 4. REGULATORY REQUIREMENTS. The offerorlcontractor is encouraged to use recovered materials to the maximum extent practicable, in accordance with Public Law 94-580 and paragraph 23.4

48、03 of the Federal Acquisition Regulation (FAR). 5. QUALITY ASSURANCE 5.1 Certification. The contractor shall certify and maintain substantiating evidence that the product offered meets the salient characteristics of this commercial item description, and that the product conforms to the producers own

49、 drawings, specifications, standards and quality assurance practices and is the same product offered for sale in the commercial marketplace. The Government reserves the right to require proof of such conformance prior to the first delivery and thereafter as may be otherwise provided for under the provisions of the contract. 5.2 Visual examination. Each coat shall be examined for the defects listed in section 5.3 in accordance with ANSIIASQC 21.4. 7 Provided by I