DLA A-A-55246-1993 DRAWERS COLD WEATHER UNDERSHIRT COLD WEATHER POLYPROPYLENE《聚丙烯保暖汗衫抽屉》.pdf

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1、 . Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Defense Personnel Support Center, Clothing and Textiles Directorate, Attn: DPSC-FSSD, 2800 South 20th Street, Philadelphia, PA 19101-8419, by u

2、sing the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 11426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. A-A-55 2 4 b = 9999974 0356252 O81 = I INCH-POUND I A-A- 5 5 2 4 6 22 NOVEMBER 1993 COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTION DRAWERS, COLD WEATHER; UNDERSHIRT, COLD WEATHER: POLYPROPYLENE Th

3、e General Services Administration has authorized the use of this Commercial Item Description in preference to MIL-D-44165, Drawers, and MIL-U-44164, Undershirt. ABSTRACT Abstract. This document covers the technical requirements for polypropylene underwear. The underwear is intended for servicemen as

4、 a component of the extended cold weather clothing system. Classification. The underwear shall be of one class provided in the following types: Type I Drawers Type II Undershirt - Sizes. The underwear shall be provided in the following sizes: x-SMALL SMALL MEDIUM LARGE X-LARGE NOTE: The sizes above

5、may be abbreviated as XSM, SM, MED, LG, and XLG. AMSC N/A FSC 8415 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55246 9 9999474 0356253 TL8 A-A-55 24 6 CHARACTER

6、ISTIC Weight (oz. per Wales per inch Courses per inch Bursting strength (lbs.) square yard) SALIENT CHARACTERISTICS REQUIREMENT TEST METHOD 5.9 minimum ASTM-D 3887 24 minimum ASTM-D 3887 22 minimum ASTM-D 3887 80 minimum ASTM-D 3787 Type I (Drawers). The drawers shall be constructed of knitted polyp

7、ropylene cloth for the two ankle length legs and the fly parts, and constructed of 1x1 rib knit polypropylene cloth for the ankle cuffs of double thickness and constructed of elastic polyester webbing for the waistband. See Figure 1 for illustration. The in-seams, fly reinforcement parts, and leg cu

8、ff fabrication and attachment shall be accomplished by means of SSa-1 seam using a 503 or 504 stitch with 12-16 stitches per inch (s.p.i.1. The left fly reinforcement piece is additionally topstitched using 12-16 s.p.i. The fly shall be bartacked at top and bottom perpendicular to crotch, the openin

9、g shall finish 5-1/8 2 1/4 inches long and the raw edge of the right fly shall be overedged. The elastic webbing shall be stitched to the drawers using a LSa-1 seam and one of the following stitches: 303, 605, or 607. Type II (UndershirtL. The knitted polypropylene undershirt shall have a front and

10、back body, two long raglan sleeves, a one piece collar that converts to a turtle neck when the center front nylon slide fastener is closed to the top of the collar, and two sleeve cuffs of double thickness. The undershirt shall have a 12 1/8 inch hem at the bottom of the body. See Figure 2 for illus

11、tration. The side and underarm sleeve seams, sleeve attachment, collar attachment, and sleeve cuff attachment, shall be accomplished by means of SSa-1 seam using a 503 or 504 stitch with 12-16 stitches per inch (s.p.i.). Material. Basic fabric (Types I and 11). The basic material for the drawers and

12、 undershirt shall be a circular or warp knit terry loop fabric of 100% textured or non-textured multifilament polypropylene for both the face and terry-loop backing. The terry-loop backing shall be brushed and shall be on the inside of the drawers and undershirt. The color shall be Brown 436 and be

13、obtained by use of melt-spun solution dyed fibers. The fabric shall conform to the following requirements: 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-5 5 24 6 A-A-5524b = 9999974 015b254 954 Dimensional Change Type 1 Wales Courses Type II

14、Wales Courses Laundering Perspiration Colorfastness to: (after 3 cycles) Crocking pH Value 4% maximum 4% maximum 3% maximum 3% maximum Equal to Standard or Grade 4 minimum Equal to Standard or Grade 4 minimum Equal to Standard or Grade 4 minimum 5.0 to 8.5 AATCC 96, (Test IC, A) AATCC 61 (Test 1A) A

15、ATCC 15 AATCC 8 L/ 2811 2/ - i/ AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale Rating. - 2/ Test Method shall be as specified in FED-STD-191 - Textile Test Methods. Cuffs - Type I (Drawers). The cuff fabric for the drawers shall be a 1x1 rib knit from a 140 denier (nominal) multifilament 100 percent polypropyle

16、ne yarn. As an alternative, up to 10 percent nylon may be used with the remaining percentage being polypropylene. The color shall be Brown 436 and shall be obtained by solution dyeing. The cuff fabric shall conform to the following requirements: CHARACTERISTIC Weight (oz. per square yard) Wales per

17、inch Courses per inch Dimensional Stability Wales Courses Laundering Perspiration Colorfastness to: (after 3 cycles) Crocking pH Value REQUIREMENT 5.3 (-0.5, +1.5) 19 minimum 32 minimum 3% maximum 3% maximum Equal to Standard or Grade 4 minimum Equal to Standard or Grade 4 minimum Equal to Standard

18、or Grade 4 minimum 5.0 to 8.5 TEST METHOD ASTM-D 3776 (Option C) ASTM-D 3887 ASTM-D 3887 AATCC 135 l-/ AATCC 61 (Test 1A) AATCC 15 AATCC 8 2/ 2811 A/ Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55246 9999974 0356255 a90 W A-A-5524 6 - i/ AATC

19、C Method 135, Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home Laundering of Durable gress,Woven or Knit Fabrics - Machine Wash Condition II (120 2 50 F) Drying Procedure B (TumbLe) except that the drying temperature shall not exceed 120 F. - 2/ AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale rating. - 3/ Test method shall

20、 be as specified in FED-STD-191 - Textile Test Methods. Cuffs - Tvpe II (Undershirt). The cuff fabric shall consist of the same basic material as all other pattern parts. Waistband - Tvpe I (Drawers). The elastic webbing for the waistband shall be a woven polyester webbing or a knitted polyester web

21、bing matching Brown Shade 436. The webbing shall meet the following requirements: CHARACTERISTIC Width, inches Weight, oz./linear yard (minimum) Tension, (pounds) Initial After Accelerate Aging Laundering Perspiration Colorfastness to: (after 3 cycles) Crocking REQUIREMENT L/ WOVEN 1-1/4 2 1/16 O-.

22、62 1.9 +- 0.3 1.6 It 0.5 Equal to Standard or Grade 4 minimum Equal to Standard or Grade 4 minimum Equal to Standard or Grade 4 minimum KNITTED 1-1/4 2 1/16 0.55 1.70 2 0.25 80% of initial value minimum AATCC 61 (Test 1A) 2/ AATCC 15 AATCC 8 2/ - i/ Unless otherwise specified, a certificate of compl

23、iance shall be submitted and will be acceptable for the stated requirements. - 2/ Omit pressing. - 3/ AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale Rating. Slide fastener - Type II (Undershirt). The slide fastener shall be a commercial grade continuous element of coil or ladder configuration, size LS, automati

24、c lock, non-separating chain, nonreversible, open top stop, closed bottom stop. The basic material shall be nylon and the color shall approximate the color of the basic fabric of the undershirt. 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-5

25、524b 9999974 OL5b25b 727 = A-A-5 5 2 4 6 TYPE I DRAWER One half waist L/ Thread (TvDe I and 11L. The thread for the undershirts and drawers shall be spun polyester, with a soft, natural, non-luster finish, 2 ply, approximate Tex 25, with a minimum breaking force of 1.7 pounds, and 20% maximum elonga

26、tion when tested as specified according to Test Method ASTM-D 2256. The color shall be Brown 436 and shall show colorfastness to laundering (after 3 cycles) and colorfastness to perspiration equal to standard or shall show a minimum of Grade 4 when tested as specified according to test methods AATCC

27、 16, (Test 1A) for Laundering; and AATCC 15 for Perspiration. xs S M L 11-1/4 12-1/4 13-1/4 14-1/4 Sizes and measurements. The finished measurements shall conform to the following Table I for Type I Drawers and Table II for Type II Undershirt: XL TABLE I - FINISHED MEASUREMENTS Tolerance ( inches )

28、15-1/4 +3/4, -1/2 Inseam 2/ 28-1/4 One half cuff width A/ 3-1/4 Cuff length A/ 2-3/4 - 29-1/4 30-1/4 31-1/4 3-1/4 3-3/4 3-3/4 2-3/4 2-3/4 2-3/4 32-1/41 2 3/4 4-1/4 +3/4, -1/2 2-3/4 - i/ Measure along center of waistband from folded edge to folded edge. +3/4, -i/2 - 2/ Measure inseam of drawers from

29、crotch seam to bottom edge of drawers leg cuff. - 3/ Measure width of cuff from folded edge to folded edge at center of cuff. - 4/ Measure length of cuff from seam edge of ribbing to bottom edge of hem. NOTE: All measurements shall be taken with the garment laid out flat with no smoothing of the fab

30、ric and under no tension. 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-552 4 b m 9999974 OL5b257 663 m A-A-55 24 6 TYPE II UNDERSHIRT One half chest l-/ Back length 2/ Sleeve length 31 One half neck A/ One half cuff width 5/ Cuff length 6/ .

31、 Tolerance for all measurements is +3/4, -1/2 xs S M L XL 18 3/4 20 3/4 22 3/4 24 3/4 26 3/4 25 26 27 28 29 18 3/4 19 3/4 20 3/4 21 3/4 22 3/4 7 1/4 7 1/2 7 3/4 8 8 1/4 3 1/4 3 1/4 3 3/4 3 3/4 4 1/4 2 1/4 2 1/4 2 1/4 2 1/4 2 1/4 TABLE II - FINISHED MEASUREMENTS - 3/ Measure along underarm seam from

32、bottom of cuff to armhole seam. - 4/ Measure collar with slide fastener closed, from folded edge to folded edge. - 5/ Measure cuff width at center of cuff from folded edge to - 61 Measure from base of sleeve to bottom of cuff. folded edge. NOTE: All measurements shall be taken with the garment laid

33、out flat with no smoothing of the fabric and under no tension. Label - Type I (Drawers). The drawers shall have a label sewn on the inside center of the back elastic just below the top edge of the waistband. The labels shall be securely stitched with a lockstitch on all sides 1/16 to 1/8 inch from t

34、he edges of the labels. The label shall be printed on a durable non-woven fabric with commercial grade, colorfast, black ink. The instruction/identification label legend shall contain the following information: 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license fr

35、om IHS-,-,-A-A-55 24 6 DRAWERS, COLD WEATHER, POLYPROPYLENE FIXED LAUNDRY: The polypropylene drawers should be laundered utilizing “Natick Formula IV“. NOTE: DO NOT STARCH, BLEACH OR PRESS FIELD LAUNDRY: The polypropylene drawers should be laundered utilizing “Formula II“ of TM 10-280. NOTE: DO NOT

36、STARCH, BLEACH OR PRESS. DRYING: The polypropylene drawers should be finished in a tumble-dryer, loaded not more than 263 of rated capacity at low heat cycle (Do not exceed 100 F). Remove immediately from dryer. Avoid over-drying. MACHINE/HAND LAUNDERING: hand in cold water (85 F) and cold water det

37、ergent. Rinse in clean cold water. DO NOT BLEACH OR STARCH. DRYING (HOME): Tumble dry permanent press cycle (100 F) for 30 minutes. Remove immediately. DO NOT OVER-DRY. DO NOT PRESS. Use delicate wash cycle or wash by O Label - Type II (Undershirt). The undershirt shall have an instruction label cau

38、ght in the stitching of the side seam at the center and an identification/size label caught in the stitching, of the collar to body and sleeves, at the center back. The labels shall be printed on a durable non-woven fabric with commercial grade, colorfast, black ink. The instruction/identification l

39、abel legend shall contain the following information: UNDERSHIRT, COLD WEATHER, POLYPROPYLENE FIXED LAUNDRY: The polypropylene undershirt should be laundered utilizing “Natick Formula IV“. NOTE: DO NOT STARCH, BLEACH OR PRESS. FIELD LAUNDRY: The polypropylene undershirt should be laundered utilizing

40、“Formula II“ of TM 10-280. NOTE: DO NOT STARCH, BLEACH OR PRESS. DRYING: The polypropylene drawers should be finished in a tumble-dryer, loaded not more thag 2/3 of rated capacity at low heat cycle (Do not exceed 100 F). Remove immediately from dryer. Avoid over-drying. MACHINE/HA.ND LAUNDERING: han

41、d in cold water (85 F) and cold water detergent. Rinse in clean cold water. DO NOT BLEACH OR STARCH. DRYING (HOME) Tumble dry permanent press cycle (100 F) for 30 minutes. Remove immediately. DO NOT OVER-DRY. DO NOT PRESS. Use delicate wash cycle or wash by O 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reprod

42、uction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-5 5 24 6 A-A-55246 m 9999974 OL5b259 436 m Label/taq. Each item shall be individually bar-coded with the type VIII, class 17 label/tag of DDD-L-20 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, And Tentage, (General Use). This label/tag shall be loca

43、ted so that it is completely visible on each item and causes no damage to the item. Patterns. The government shall furnish a single size pattern. The contractor is responsible for grading patterns for additional sizes. The pattern generally provides for a seam allowance of 1/4 inch for joining seams

44、. Commercial patterns may be used in lieu of the government furnished pattern, provided they conform to the cited design and finished measurements. Workmanship. The finished drawers and undershirts shall conform to the quality of product established by this document. The occurrence of defects shall

45、not exceed the contractors own quality assurance standards and the quality assurance standards defined by the technical data in the bid package. Product demonstration model. When required, offerors shall submit samples of their intended production. The Product demonstration model will consist of uni

46、ts independently developed. Product demonstration models will be analyzed and evaluated by the government. Evaluation criteria and basis for award are contained in the solicitation. Product demonstration models will be retained by the government. One (1) Product demonstration model approved by DPSC

47、under the resultant contract will serve as a manufacturing standard for the corresponding production items delivered under this contract. Offerors are advised that the Product demonstration model does not relieve the successful offeror of his responsibility to perform in accordance with the commerci

48、al item description specified above. Requlatory requirements. The offeror/contractor is encouraged to use recovered materials in accordance with Public Law 94-580 to the maximum extent practicable. QUALITY ASSURANCE Certification. The contractor shall certify that the product offered meets the salie

49、nt characteristics of this description and that the product conforms to the producers own drawings, specifications, standards and quality assurance practices. The government reserves the right to require proof of such conformance prior to the first delivery, and thereafter, as may be otherwise provided for under the provisions of the contract. Reliance on contractor quality assurance systems shall not relieve the contractor of the respons