DLA A-A-55221-1993 TUNIC MATERNITY《产妇中山装》.pdf

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1、A-A-55221 9999974 OL552b0 2b0 A-A-55 2 2 1 September 10, 1993 COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTION TUNIC, MATERNITY The General Services Administration has authorized the use of this commercial item description in preference to MIL-T-29375. Abstract. polyester wool maternity tunic to be worn by female person

2、nel in the U.S. Marine Corps. Salient characteristics. sleeveless, with a front pleat insert, center back slide closure, two back darts, one bust dart on each side, and no collar. The front shall have a center pleat insert with ornamental stitching (see Figure 2). The pleat shall start 3-1/8 1/16 in

3、ches below the neckline. The tabs shall have two buttons with reinforced 18-line stay buttons on the inside. The second button shall be 1-1/2 inches from the center of the first button. Each button shall be shank wrapped. The buttonholes shall be horizontal eyelet-end-taper- bar type, well-worked-ov

4、er gimp, with the gimp purling pulled through to the underside, and centered on each tab 3/4 inch from the pointed end of the tab. All raw edges of the tunic shall be overedged. The neck and arm openings, and waist adjustment tabs shall be topstitched 1/4 inch from the edge. The finished tunic shall

5、 be pressed smooth with a heated pressing iron or pressing machine. This commercial item description covers a green The tunic shall be hip length, 0 There shall be two back waist adjustment tabs. Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use i

6、n improving this document should be addressed to: Defense Personnel Support Center, Clothing and Textiles Directorate, Attn: DPSC-FSSD, 2800 South 20th Street, Philadelphia, PA 19101-8419, by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document

7、 or by letter. AMSC N/A FSC 8410 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-14-55221 = 9999974 01552bL 1T7 A-A-55 2 2 1 Materials. The basic material of the tuni

8、c shall be cloth, serge, two up-two down right hand twill weave, using a single spun yarn blended of 77% to 83% polyester fiber and 17% wool fiber of 62s U.S. standard or finer grade, and woven with 100% continuous filament texturizing polyester yarn into an end and end, pick and pick arrangement in

9、 both warp and filling directions. The minimum width shall be not less than 60 inches exclusive of the selvages. The basic material shall conform to the requirements in Table I. TABLE I. Basic Material Physical Requirements Characteristic Requirement Test method Weight (ounces per linear yard (56 in

10、ches wide) Colorfastness to: Laundering Crocking Light Yarns per inch (minimum) Warp Filling Breaking strength, pounds (minimum) Warp Filling Tearing strength (pounds) Warp Filling 10.5 - 11.0 Class 4 Grade 3 I good “ 65 55 160 140 6.0 6.0 Dimensional stability + 2.5 % in either direction - Pilling

11、Class 4-slight pilling ASTM D-3776 (option C) AATCC 61 Test 1A 2/ AATCC 8 AATCC 16 l-/ ASTM D-3775 ASTM D-3775 ASTM D-5034 ASTM D-5034 ASTM D-1424 ASTM D-1424 AATCC 99 ASTM C-3511 - i/ The time of exposure shall be 40 standard fading hours. - 2/ For yarn use 2 to 6 grams of the applicable material,

12、so held together to form a unit for testing unless otherwise specified in the procurement document. 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55221 W 9999974 0155262 033 = A-A- 5 5 2 2 1 Interlininq. The interlining for the front neck and

13、 armhole facings, back neck and armhole facings and waist adjustment tabs shall be a nonwoven web, thermally bonded by heat activated fibers or powders. The web shall be either flat or print bonded substrate with polyamide adhesive. The color shall be oxford grey. The interlining shall conform to th

14、e following requirements in Table II: TABLE II. Interlininq Physical Requirements Characteristic Requirement Test method Weight (ounces per square yard) Minimum Maximum Breaking strength, pounds (minimum) Machine direction Crosswise direction Shrinkage (maximum) After 20 launderings Bond strength (p

15、er inch of width) minimum Initial After 20 launderings 1.7 2.6 3.0 2.0 1% 22/splits 18/ splits ASTM D-3776 ASTM D-3776 ASTM D-5034 ASTM D-5034 AATCC 96 opt. vc 2/ 3/ A/ - Federal Standard 191 5951 i/ 5951 f/ - i/ Splits means that during the test, the fusible material cannot be removed from the oute

16、r shell. This will cause the fusible material to split from itself than separate from the outershell. - 2/ Sample size shall be 22 inches by 22 inches with 18-inch benchmarks, 6 inches apart. - 3/ Use drying procedure (D), or samples may be dried using a thermostatically controlled circulating oven

17、221 - 230 F until dried. The sample shall be allowed to cool for 5 minutes, sprinkled with water to permit damp pressing, and allowed to stand in this condition for 5 minutes. - 4/ The dampened specimens shall be pressed with a flatbed press as described in AATCC 96 Section 5.2, or a hand iron as de

18、scribed in AATCC 96 Section 5.10 at a temperature of 275O - 300 F. Section 7.4 of AATCC 96 shall not apply. 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-5522L m 9999974 0155263 T7T m. A-A-55 2 2 1 Buttons. The sewing-hole buttons for the wai

19、st adjustment tab shall be melamine formaldehyde composition, flat, with a 4-hole center, recessed ring, and a glossy finish. The buttons shall be 30-line, and the color shall match Green Shade AF, Cable No. 62017. The stay button shall be a sewing-hole button, with a melamine formaldehyde compositi

20、on, flat and with four holes. The stay button shall be 18-line, and the color shall match Green Shade AF, Cable No. 62017. Slide fasteners. The slide fastener shall be non-separating, non-reversible, automatic or cam lock size LS (commercial No. 4). The slide fastener shall have a short pull tab. Al

21、l the components of the slide fastener shall be brass and furnished by the same supplier. The tape shall be cotton, synthetic, or a combination of both. The length of the slide fastener shall be 20 inches for all sizes. The color of the slide fastener shall be Green shade, Cable No. 66531 (see quart

22、ermaster Standard Shades of Slide Fastener Tapes). The dyed slide fastener tape shall show “good“ colorfastness (Class 4) when tested in accordance with AATCC 61. As an alternate, a plastic coil fastener shall be used. The slide fastener shall be made of polyester or nylon consisting of an automatic

23、 or cam lock, and shall be equal to commercial size No. 2. The tape shall be a blend of nylon and cotton, polyester and cotton, or polyester, and shall have a minimum width (one side) of 7/16 2 1/8 inch. O Thread. A cotton or cotton-covered polyester thread shall be used and shall conform to the fol

24、lowing requirements in Table III: TABLE III. Thread Phvsical Requirements I Operation TYPe Tex Breaking strength Buttonholes mercerized 40 2.6 pounds Seams and stitchings soft finish 40 1.8 pounds Overedging soft finish 30 1.5 pounds Buttons glazed 105 5.3 pounds Sizes. The tunic shall be provided i

25、n the following sizes: Extra-small Sma 11 Medium Large Extra-large 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55221 = 9777774 0lt552b4 906 A-A- 5 5 2 2 1 NOTE: Extra-small, Small, Medium, Large and Extra-large may be abbreviated as XSM, SM

26、, MED, LG, and XLG. Label/markinq Combination label. The tunic shall have a combination- identification and instruction label conforming to Type VI, class 10 and 14 of DDD-L-20. The colorfastness to laundering requirements shall apply. The label shall have the following inscription: TUNIC, WOMEN, MA

27、TERNITY FIBER CONTENT: Polyester (80%) and Wool (20%) (Example) SIZE: Small (Example) STOCK NO.: 8415-00-000-0000 (Example) CONTRACT NO.: DIA-CG-00000-0 (Example) NAME OF CONTRACTOR: IS DESIRED, USE COOL IRON. WASH DARKS SEPARATELY. DO NOT BLEACH. MACHINE WASH: WARM. LINE OR TUMBLE DRY. IF TOUCH-UP

28、Size label. The label for the tunic shall conform to Type VI, class 2 of DDD-L-20, and shall read as follows: Size: Small (Example) Label/taq. Each tunic shall be individually bar-coded with the type VIII, class 17 label/tag of DDD-L-20. This label/tag shall be located so that it is completely visib

29、le on each tunic and causes no damage to the tunic. Patterns. The Government shall furnish a single size pattern. The contractor is responsible for grading patterns for additional sizes. The pattern generally provides for a seam allowance of 1-1/2 inches for hemming the bottom of the tunic, 5/8 inch

30、 seam allowance for joining the side seams and 3/8 inch seam allowance for all other seams. Commercial patterns may be used in lieu of the Government-furnished pattern provided they conform to the cited design and finished measurements. Sizes and measurements. The finished tunics shall conform to th

31、e measurements shown in Table IV. 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55221 9999974 OL552b5 842 W A-A-55221 TABLE IV. Finished Measurements Size A Half bust B Back length Extra-small Small Medium Large Extra-large 17-1/2 18-1/2 20 2

32、1-3/4 23-1/2 25-1/2 26 26-1/2 27 27-1/2 I Tolerance + 1/2 + 1/2 NOTE: All measurements shall be taken with the tunic laid smooth and flat. A and B refers to Figure 1. A. Bust. Measurement shall be taken with tunic back closure closed, across front of tunic from folded edge to folded edge at pit of a

33、rmhole. B. a Back lenqth. Measurement shall be taken from the top of neckline to bottom edge of tunic. Workmanship. The finished tunics shall conform to the quality of product established by this document. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the contractors own quality assurance standards and

34、 the quality assurance standards defined by the technical data in the bid package. Product demonstration model. When required, offerers shall submit samples of their intended production. The product demonstration model will consist of units independently developed. evaluated by the Government. Evalu

35、ation criteria and basis for award are contained in the solicitation. Product demonstration models will be retained by the Government. One (1) product demonstration model approved by DPSC under the resultant contract will serve as a manufacturing standard for the corresponding production items deliv

36、ered under this contract. Offerers are advised that the product demonstration model does not relieve the successful offerer of his responsibility to perform in accordance with the commercial item description specified above. Recrulatorv reauirements. The offeror/contractor is encouraged to use recov

37、ered materials in accordance with Public Law 94-580 to the maximum extent practicable. Product demonstration models will be analyzed and 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55221 9999974 O1552bb 787 A-A-55 2 2 1 ualitv assurance O -

38、 Certification. offered meets the salient characteristics of this description and that the product conforms to the producers own drawings, specifications, standards and quality assurance practices. The Government reserves the right to require proof of such conformance prior to the first delivery and

39、 thereafter as may be otherwise provided for under the provisions of the contract. Reliance on contractor quality assurance systems shall not relieve the contractor of the responsibility of ensuring that all products or supplies submitted to the Government for acceptance comply with all requirements

40、 of the contract. The contractor shall certify that the product Examination Visual examination. The tunics shall be examined for the defects listed below. The lot size shall be expressed in units of tunics. The sample unit is one tunic. Defects. The tunics shall be examined for the following defects

41、: Pressing Omitted, burned, scorched, gloss, wrinkles or creases, bulky edges Mat er ia 1 Any hole, cut, tear, needle chew, burn, mend, multiple float, loose or unslightly club or shade bar color not as specified; any spot or stain (outside), shaded parts, overall uncleanness, color not as specified

42、 Component Any component part misplaced, omitted, or not assembly securely affixed; any component part twisted, distorted, pleated, damaged or otherwise defective Seam and Seam irregular, unevenly gaged, missing, stitching weak, broken, loose or tight tension, skipped, puckered, twisted, pleated or

43、wavy, ends of stitching bartacked or overlapped by another seam less than 1/2 inch Buttonholes Not corresponding to size of button, slanted, positioned vertically, loose tension, stitches broken or skipped, not shank wrapped Buttons Missing, incorrect or illegible, not securely sewn 7 Provided by IH

44、SNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55221 = 9999974 0355267 bL5 A-A- 5 5 2 2 1 Labels Missing, incorrect or illegible, not positioned Label/tag or stitched as specified Bar code omitted or not readable by scanner; human-readable interpretation (HRI

45、) omitted or illegible; bar-coded type not as specified; code density not as specified. Cleaninq. After completion, the finished tunics shall be cleaned, and all loose thread, lint, and foreign matter removed. Dimensional examination. The finished tunics shall conform to the dimensions specified. An

46、y dimension that is not within the established tolerance shall be classified as a defect. The sample unit shall be one tunic. Packaqinq examination. The fully packaged shipping containers shall be examined in accordance with the defects listed below. The lot size shall be the number of shipping cont

47、ainers in the inspection lot. EXAMINE DEFECT Marking Omitted, incorrect, illegible; (exterior and interior) of improper size, location, or method of application Mat er ia 1 s Workmanship Content Any component missing, damaged, Inadequate application of or not as specified components, such as: incomp

48、lete closure of container flaps, loose strapping, improper taping, or inadequate stapling Number of items in container is more or less than required NSN shown on one or more items is not as specified on shipping container 8 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without

49、 license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55221 m 9999974 0155268 555 m A-A-55 2 2 1 EXAMINE DEFECT O Palletization Length, width, or height exceeds specified maximum requirements Pallet type not as specified Load not bonded as specified Preservation, packinq, and markinq. The preservation, packing, and marking shall be as specified in the contract or order. Source of Government documents. Copies of military and Federal documen