DLA A-A-55110 A-1993 COAT ALL-WEATHER MAN-S W REMOVABLE LINER《男式W 可拆卸衬垫全天候外套》.pdf

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1、A-A-5533OA m 9999974 0356234 Obb m A-A-5511OA November 18, 1993 SUPERSEDING December 28, 1992 A-A-55 11 O COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTION COAT, ALL-WEATHER, MANS, w/REMOVABLE LINER The General Services Administration has authorized the use of this commercial item description in preference to MIL-C-24918

2、. Abstract. This commercial item description covers the requirements for a mans all-weather coat, made of water- repellant-treated polyester/cotton poplin, with a removable insulated liner. Classification. The coat shall be one type in the following sizes and lengths: Sizes: 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44,

3、46, 48 Lengths: Short, Regular, Long, Extra-Long Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Defense Personnel Support Center, Clothing and Textiles Directorate, Attn: DPSC-FSSD, 2800 South

4、20th Street, Philadelphia, PA 19101-8419, by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. FSC 8405 AMSC N/A DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. Licensed by Information Handling

5、 ServicesA-A-5533OA 9999974 0356235 TT2 A-A-5511OA Description. The all-weather coat shall be double-breasted with a four-button closure, one-piece front, two-piece back, a lined back yoke, two-piece sleeve with a set-in front, and raglan back. Each sleeve shall have a two-piece buckled strap at the

6、 bottom. The coat shall have a half-lining of self fabric, a hanger loop at the center back neck, semi-stand-up collar with pointed ends, buttoned loop shoulder epaulets, two vertical pass-through welted pockets, and a detachable 2 inch wide, minus 1/8 inch tolerance only waistline belt with a buckl

7、e. The belt shall be secured by a single loop at the right side seam and a double loop at the left side seam. The belt shall have a buttoned belt anchor on the left side only, and a belt loop keeper on the front of the belt, 5 inches from the buckle. The coat shall have a zippered, removable, quilte

8、d, insulated liner with sleeves and pass through bound pocket slits (See Figures 1 and 2). All seams shall have 8-10 stitches per inch. Front edges, lapels, collar, epaulets, sleeve strap, belt, pocket welts, bottom edge of storm yolk, and lapped seams shall be topstitched 5/16 inch. The bottom hem

9、shall be topstitched 1 inch. All lapped seams shall contain fused seam web material. Sleeve underarm seams (lining and basic fabric) shall be tacked together on the seam allowance for 4 inches, starting 5 inches from the bottom of the cuff. The lining shall be tacked to the shell fabric on the side

10、seam at the hem edge of the lining. The coat shall have ten 40-line buttons (4 on each front, 1 as a reinforcement under the second button from the top on the left front, 1 on inside right facing below combination label) and five 30 line-buttons (one on each epaulet, one on gun flap, one on right fr

11、ont corresponding with top buttonhole on left front, and one on inside left facing below the 40 line-button). Buttons on the right front and inside left front shall be shank wrapped. All front buttons shall have an 18-line reinforcement button sewn underneath, except for the second button from the t

12、op on left front as noted. Each sleeve bottom shall have an 18-line button sewn through the lining only to correspond with a loop or buttonhole on the removable liner sleeve bottom. The belt anchor shall have a 18-line button sewn through all plies. All front and epaulet buttonholes shall be the cut

13、-first, square- or tapered end type, worked-over gimp, with ends of gimp pulled through the underside. As indicated by the template, five 1-1/4 inch horizontal buttonholes shall be on the left front and one on the right front. The belt anchor shall have a 3/4-inch cut- first, square-end buttonhole.

14、Material. The basic material for the body of the coat shall be water-repellant-treated 65% polyester/35% cotton poplin conforming to A-A-50531. The color shall match Blue 3376. 2 Licensed by Information Handling Servicesr A-A-55LLOA 9999974 035b23b 939 A-A-5511OA The material for the removable liner

15、s outer layers, the sleeve binding, the pass-through pockets, and the edge binding shall be a nylon taffeta, CG Blue 3376, continuous filament, 70 denier, weighing 1.9 (2 0.15) oz./sq. yd. The material shall have 100 yarns per inch (min.) in the warp direction and 80 yarns per inch (min.) in the fil

16、ling direction, a minimum breaking strength of 110 lbs. (warp) and 85 lbs. (filling), and a minimum tearing strength of 5.0 lbs. (warp) and 3.5 lbs. (filling). The finished material shall show “good“ fastness to perspiration, dry cleaning, and laundering with a wet/dry crocking rating not lower than

17、 3.0 when tested as specified in AATCC Test Methods 15, 132, 61, and 8 respectively. The batting material for the body and the sleeves of the removable insulated liner shall be a thin, lightweight, double- scrim batting composed of 65% polyolefin/35% polyester, quilted in 5 (+ 1/2) inch wide vertica

18、l channels between two layers of plain weave nylon taffeta. The batting for the body of the liner shall weigh 4.6 oz./sq. yd. (min.)* and shall be 0.4 inch (min.) thick. The batting for the sleeves of the liner shall weigh 3.1 oz./sq. yd. (min.)* and shall be 0.3 inch (min.) thick. (* Weight exclude

19、s scrim.) Fusible interlininq non-woven). The top collar, pocket welts, facing, sleeve strap (long), epaulets, sleeve hem (cuff), and belt shall be fused with a non-woven web, made of mechanically entangled fibers, thermally bonded together, and shall be binder free. The fusible cloth may be compose

20、d of 100% polyester fibers or a combination of polyester with nylon or rayon fibers with not less than 50% polyester fibers. The fusible adhesive shall be applied to one side of the web in a uniforni dot pattern in accordance with good commercial practice. The color shall be black and shall show “fa

21、ir“ colorfastness to dry cleaning (3 cycles). The finished weight of the fusible material shall be a minimum of 1.5 oz./sq. yd. For optimum results, specific fuse time and settings should be obtained from the manufacturer of the non-woven fusible interlining. The fused sample, consisting of fusible

22、interlining and base fabric, shall show no evidence of bubbling, delamination, change of color, or strike through both initially and after 5 dry cleanings. It shall show a bond strength of 22 ounces per inch of width initially and 17 ounces per inch of width after 5 dry cleanings. (Test results will

23、 be considered acceptable if the fusible either splits from itself rather than separates from the outershell material, or if it begins to separate from the outershell material higher than the minimum bond strength and splits from itself.) It shall not shrink or elongate more than 2% after 1 dry clea

24、ning. Licensed by Information Handling Services- A-A-55LLOA 9999974 OL5b237 875 D A-A-55110A Fusible interlininq (woven). The fusible interlining for the collar stand shall be 100% cotton, plain weave cloth. The color shall be black and shall show “fair“ colorfastness to dry cleaning (3 cycles). The

25、 fusible adhesive shall be applied to one side of the fabric in uniform dot pattern in accordance with good commercial practice. The finished fusible shall weigh from between 5.5 - 6.5 oz./sq. yd. For optimum results, specific fuse time and settings should be obtained from the manufacturer of the in

26、terlining. The fused sample, consisting of fusible interlining and basic material, shall show no evidence of bubbling, delamination, color change or strike through after 5 dry cleanings. It shall not shrink or elongate more than 2% after 5 dry cleanings. It shall show bond strength of 22 ounces per

27、inch of width initially and 17 ounces per inch after 5 dry cleanings. Seam web. The tape for topstitched seams shall be a polyamide fusible web, 3/8 (2 1/16) inch in width, and shall weigh 1.0 (2 0.2) oz./sq. yd. The color shall be natural and shall show “fair“ colorfastness to dry cleaning (3 cycle

28、s). For optimum results, fuse time and settings should be obtained from the manufacturer of the fusible tape. Thread. The thread for seaming and stitching shall be a polyester-core thread conforming to type I, sizes 50 or 70 of A-A-50199. Machine tacking shall use size 30. The color shall be shade B

29、lue AB, CA 66044, and shall show a “good“ colorfastness to wet dry cleaning and light. Gimp. The gimp for reinforcing buttonholes shall be cotton, Blue AB, CA 66044, conforming to size No. 8, type 1 or II of A-A-50198, and shall show colorfastness to dry cleaning. Buttons. The buttons shall conform

30、to type II, style 20/21, class K, 30 and 40 lines, of V-B-871 or equal. The color shall be blue BU, Cable No. 62002, with a raised, glossy outer edge and a dull, recessed center. The reinforcement buttons shall be 18-line, type II, style 15, shade Black of V-B-871 or equal. Buckles. The belt and sle

31、eve strap buckles shall be rectangular with rounded corners and a vertical center bar. The buckle shall be of nylon construction with a simulated stitch edge. The color shall be dark Navy, approximating the color of the basic material, with a matte finish. The dimensions shall be inches as specified

32、 below: Belt Sleeve strap 2 1 7/8 5/8 1/4 1/8 Length (inside) Width (inside) Center bar width 4 Licensed by Information Handling ServicesA-A-5511OA = 9999974 015b238 701 A-A-5511OA Frame width Center bar thickness - Frame thickness Tolerance: 1/4 3/16 1/8 1/8 3/16 3/32 (+ 1/32) (+ 1/32) Slide fasten

33、er. The s ide fastener for the coat and remova-le liner shall be Type IV, style 1, size L, short tab pull and aluminum chain, conforming to V-F-106. The tape shall approximate shade Blue 3376 and may be 7/16 or 9/16 inch wide. The ends of the slide fastener shall be equidistant from the bottom edge

34、of the coat. Labels. Both the coat and removable liner shall have a combination identification personal and instruction label. The coat label shall be sewn on all 4 sides, centered on the right facing approximately 10 inches from the finished bottom edge. The label for the liner shall be sewn on all

35、 4 sides, centered on the back 2 (+ 1/2) inches below the neck edge. In addition, both coat and removable liner shall have a size label. The combination identification personal and instruction label for the coat shall show fastness to dry cleaning and bear the following inscription: NAME : COAT, ALL

36、-WEATHER, MANS, w/REMOVABLE LINER CONTRACT NO: DLA 100-00-0-0000 (Example) NAME OF CONTRACTOR: CARE INSTRUCTIONS: DRY CLEAN ONLY The combination identification personal and instruction label for the Liner shall be the same as for the coat, except it shall show fastness to laundering and have the fol

37、lowing care instructions: CARE INSTRUCTIONS Machine Wash Warm, Delicate Cycle, No Chlorine Bleach Tumble Dry Low Heat Steam ONLY or Use Cool Iron OR Professionally Dry Clean Tumble Dry Warm and Steam ONLY The size label shall be centered at the neck, caught in the stitching so it faces the wearer, a

38、nd shall bear the following inscription: Size: 40R (Example) Stock No: 8405-00-000-0000 (Example) 5 Licensed by Information Handling Services- A-A-SSLLOA 9999774 035b239 b48 A-A-5511OA NOTE: Abbreviations to be used for the applicable lengths shall e be “S“ for Short, IR“ for Regular, “L“ for Long,

39、“XL“ for Extra Long. Label/taq. Each item shall be individually bar-coded with the type VIII, class 17 label/tag of DDD-L-20. This label/tag shall be located so that it is completely visible on the item when it is folded and/or packaged as specified and causes no damage to the item. Pressinq. Press

40、collar, fronts, backs, fold of back vent and hems solid, smooth, and flat. Sleeves shall be roll pressed. All wrinkles, creases, or pressing impressions shall be removed. There shall be no excess gloss or scorching. Patterns. The Government shall furnish a single size pattern. The contractor is resp

41、onsible for grading patterns for additional sizes. The pattern generally provides for a seam allowance of 1/2 inch for outer shell and pocket welt joining seams, and 1/4 inch for other stitched seams. The Government patterns shall be used to make the contractors working patterns. The Government patt

42、erns shall not be altered in any way. The working patterns may be modified to accommodate automation. However, if the working patterns are modified, the design and measurements must be maintained as intended by Government patterns. Measurements. The finished coats shall conform to the following meas

43、urements, which are expressed in inches: Size Chest Sleeve Center Back Liner Back Belt Inseam Length Length Length (A) (BI (Cl (D) (E) 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 SHORT 17 39-1/4 17 39-1/2 17 39-3/4 17 40 17 40-1/4 17 40-1/2 17 40-3

44、/4 17 41 REGULAR 18 41-1/4 18 41-1/2 18 41-3/4 18 42-1/4 18 42-1/2 18 42-3/4 18 43 18 42 29-1/4 46-1/2 29-1/2 48-1/2 29-3/4 50-1/2 30 52-1/2 30-1/4 54-1/2 30-1/2 56-1/2 30-3/4 58-1/2 31 60-1/2 31-1/4 46-1/2 31-1/2 48-1/2 31-3/4 50-1/2 32 52-1/2 32-1/4 54-1/2 32-1/2 56-1/2 32-3/4 58-1/2 33 60-1/2 6 L

45、icensed by Information Handling ServicesSize Chest A-A-5511OA = 9999974 0156240 3bT A-A-5511OA Sleeve Center Back Liner Back Belt 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 LONG 19-1/4 19-1/4 19-1/4 19-1/4 19-1/4 19-1/4 19-1/4 19-1/4 43-1/4 43-1/2

46、 43-3/4 44 44-1/4 44-1/2 44-3/4 45 EXTRA-LONG 20 45-1/4 20 45-1/2 20 45-3/4 20 46 20 46-1/4 20 46-1/2 20 46-3/4 20 47 Tolerance (i 3/4) (- + 1/2) (- + 1/2) 33-1/4 33-1/2 33-3/4 34 34-1/4 34-1/2 34-3/4 3 5. 35-1/4 35-1/2 35-3/4 36 36-1/4 36-1/2 36-3/4 37 46-1/2 48-1/2 50-1/2 52-1/2 54-1/2 56-1/2 58-1

47、/2 60-1/2 46-1/2 48-1/2 50-1/2 52-1/2 54-1/2 56-1/2 58-1/2 60-1/2 (- + 1/2) (- + 1/2) NOTE: Refer to Figure 1 for A, B, C, and E measurements and Figure 2 for D measurements. All measurements shall be taken with coat fully buttoned, placed smooth and flat. (A) Chest - Twice the measurement shall be

48、taken across front at base of armholes from folded edge to folded edge. (B) Sleeve Inseam - Measurement shall be taken along sleeve inseam from base of armhole to bottom of sleeve. (C) Center Back Length - Measurement shall be taken from the neckline seam to bottom edge of coat. (D) Liner Back Lengt

49、h - Measurement shall be taken from the top edge of neckline to bottom edge of liner. (E) Belt Length - With belt flat, measure from center of buckle to pointed end of belt. Workmanship. The finished coats and liners shall be thoroughly cleaned, with all loose threads, lint, and foreign matter removed. The liners shall be matched to the proper size coats, and shall be assembled together. All seams shall be constructed free of puckering and twists. 7 Licensed by Information Handling ServicesA-A-5511OA Product demonstration model. When required, offerers shall submit samples coats of