DLA A-A-55108-1992 HAT SERVICE (WHITE)《白色服务帽》.pdf

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1、A-A-55108 m 711 01211211 T85 m I INCH-POUND I 16 December 1992 A-A-5 5 1 O 8 COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTION HAT, SERVICE (WHITE) The General Services Administration has authorized the use of this Commercial Item Description in preference to MIL-H-87041. Abstract. This Commercial Item Description covers

2、 the requirements for the Type I hat which is intended for wear by Navy enlisted men and the Type II hat which is intended for wear by Navel Academy Midshipmen and NROTC Midshipmen. Classification. The service hats shall be in the following types: Type I - Hat, Enlisted Mans Type II - Hat, Midshipma

3、ns Schedule of Sizes 6-1/2, 6-3/4, 7, 7-1/4, 7-1/2, 7-3/4, 8, 8-1/4, and 8-1/2 Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Defense Personnel Support Center, Clothing and Textiles Directorate

4、, Attn: DPSC-FSSD, 2800 South 20th Street, Philadelphia, PA 19101-8419, by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. AMSC N/A DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. FSC 8405 Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. Pr

5、ovided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55108 m 7777774 0121L25 911 A-A-5 5 10 8 Salient Characteristics. Type I and Type II hats shall be made of a white cotton twill fabric and shall have a 6 piece dome shaped crown, a flared, stitched tu

6、rned up brim and self fabric sweatband. The crown seams shall be covered with bias cut strips of the basic white cotton twill fabric on the inside of the hat. The strips shall finish 5/8 (2 1/16) inch wide, centered over the seam, with sides folded under and stitched on both sides approximately 1/16

7、 inch from folded edges. There shall be no more than 1 splice per strip. A hanger loop shall be securely sewn into one of the seam covering strips, midway between top and bottom of crown, towards the back of the hat. The bottom edge of the crown shall be finished on the outside with a bias strip of

8、the basic white twill fabric, finishing 1/4 to 1/2 inch wide. The distance from the outer edge of the brim to the bound edge of the crown shall be 2-13/16 to 2-15/16 inches. The brim of the hat shall be interlined with buckram and interlining, with the twill cloth folded over the outer edge and seam

9、ed to the inside of brim. The hat shall have 70 to 75 rows of continuous, evenly spaced and parallel lock stitching over the entire circumference of the brim; 1/4 to 3/8 from the folded outer edge to the sweatband. The brim stitching shall have 10 to 12 stitches per inch, and the brim shall measure

10、2-1/2 to 2-7/8 inches in width from the folded edge to the breakline at bottom. The center of the diagonal joining seam on brim shall finish 2 1 inch from back of finished hat. The sweatband shall be cut from the basic white cotton twill on the straight of grain, finishing 7/8 to 1-1/8 inches wide,

11、stitched 1/16 to 1/8 from folded edges, and with 8 to 10 rows of uniformly spaced lockstitch. The joining seam of the sweatband shall finish approximately 1 inch from back crown seam, and the bottom folded edge of the sweatband shall measure 2-13/16 to 2- 15/16 inches from folded edge of brim. The h

12、at shall be neatly blocked on the correct size heated block using live steam. As an alternate, dry heat hydraulic blocking is permitted. Type II Midshipmens hat shall be bound with the basic cotton twill fabric dyed shade Blue 3362. The binding shall be cut on the bias, one piece per hat, and shall

13、not be spliced. The binding shall extend 7/8 to 1-1/8 inches on each side of brim, with a fold under edge on the outside of the brim, and the joining seam at the back of hat. Stitching on binding shall consist of 5 to 7 rows with black thread, evenly spaced across binding width, through all plies. 2

14、 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-I a A-A-55LO m 999997q OL2LL2b 858 m A-A-55 108 Material. Basic material. The basic material for the Types I and II hats shall be 3/1 twill, consisting of combed cotton singles or 2 ply yarn, and the c

15、olor shall be White, shade 3035. The cloth used for binding the brim of the Type II hat shall be the basic material, dyed to match shade Blue 3362. The dyed cloth shall show colorfastness to laundering (after 3 cycles), perspiration, crocking and light equal to or better than the standard sample. Wh

16、en no standard sample. When no standard sample is established, or is not referenced for colorfastness, the dyed cloth, unless otherwise specified, shall conform to the requirements specified in Table I, when tested as specified Table I. Physical requirements and test methods Characteristic Requireme

17、nt Test method Yarns/inch (min) 100 ends/inch Weight (min) Shrinkage or elongation 54 picks/inch 7.2 oz./sq. yd. ASTM-D 3775 ASTM-D 3776 Option C Shall not exceed an ave- AATCC 135 rage of 2% in either the warp or filling directions, with no individual unit greater than 2.5% Breaking strength (lbs)

18、Warp 160 Filling 95 Discoloration - 4/ 5/ (bleached) Colorfastness to: Laundering Class 4 ASTM-D 5034 ASTM-D 5034 AATCC 16 AATCC 61 L/ Perspiration Class 4 AATCC 15 Light Class 4 AATCC 16 2/ Option A a 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-

19、,-A-A-55108 Characteristic Requirement Test method Dyed Fabric Only Colorfastness to: Combined laundering and bleaching Crocking Good Grade 3 5605 A/ AATCC a - i/ cycle. - 2/ 40 Standard fading hours. - 3/ Federal Test Method Std. No. 191A. - 4/ One determination shall be made from each sample unit

20、and the result reported as “pass“ or “fail“. - 5/ TM AATCC 16, Option A shall be used, except that exposure of specimen shall be for 20 standard fading hours. Discoloration of the specimen shall be considered satisfactory if it is not worse than the rating of “fair“ indicated in TM AATCC 16, Option

21、A. Launder for 3 full cycles, drying test specimens after each Fiqures. only. specification and the figure, the written specification shall govern. Interlininq of the hat brim. of the hat brim shall be a plain weave cotton duck and shall conform to the physical requirements in Table carded cotton sh

22、all be used for both warp and filling. Figure 1 and 2 is furnished for information purposes When inconsistencies exist between the written The cloth used for the interlining II. Flied yarns of Table II. Phvsical requirements and test method Characteristic Requirements Test method Breaking strength W

23、arp (pounds) Filling (pounds) Weight 285 (Min) 190 (Min) ASTM-D 5034 ASTM-D 5034 17.6 oz./sq. yd. ASTM-D 3776 (min ) Option C 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55108 9994974 OL2LL28 b20 A-A-5 5 1 O 8 Reinforcement of the brim. The

24、 cloth used for the reinforcement of the brim interlining shall be cotton buckram bleached white and shall conform to Type III of A-A-50186, except that the shrinkage requirement shall not apply. Cloth, nonwoven, polyester and rayon. As an alternate to the cotton buckram and the cotton duck interlin

25、ing, a 70% polyester/30% rayon nonwoven material, conforming to the requirements in Table III may be used. The material shall conform to Pellon style number 3790 or equal. When this fabric is used, cut 4 parts using the cotton duck pattern piece. The pattern piece for the cotton buckram will not be

26、used. Table III. Physical requirements and test method Characteristic Requirements Test method Weight per square yard, oz. 4.7 (+ 0.4) ASTM-D 3776 Option C Breaking strength, lbs. Warp 45 (Min) ASTM-D 5034 Filling 45 (Min) ASTM-D 5034 Tape. woven. The tape used for the hanger loops shall be cotton,

27、1/2 or 5/8 inch wide, bleached white with a 2/2 herringbone twill weave and a woven edge on both sides. The minimum requirement for yarns/inch shall be 74 ends/inch of 60/2 yarn, and 55 picks/inch of 30/1 or 60/2 yarn, when tested as specified in Test Method ASTM-D 3775. A 2 5% tolerance will be all

28、owed for yarns/inch requirements Thread. The thread used for general seaming and stitching shall be cotton, shade White AH, Cable No. 66050, 3 ply, Ticket No. 70, conforming to Type I of A-A-52094. The cotton thread used for stitching the blue binding to the brim of the Type II hat shall be 3 ply, T

29、icket No. 70, shade Black, AA, Cable No. 66043, Type I of A-A-52094. As an alternate to the cotton thread, a cotton covered polyester thread, Ticket No. 70, 2 ply, conforming to Type I of A-A-50199 may be used. 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license fr

30、om IHS-,-,-A-A-55L08 7979974 OL2LL27 567 W DLAlOO-00-0-0000 HAND OR MACHINE WASH WARM WITH MILD DETERGENT A-A-55 1 O 8 S TUMBLE DRY LOW I OR HANG DRY z E Label/markinq. The contract number, applicable hat size and laundering instructions shall legibly marked on the sweatband by be heat transfer (dec

31、alcomania), direct printing, stamping, or stenciling, approximately 3/8 inch to the left or right of the back joining seam. As an option, the hat size and contract number may be marked on one side of the hanger loop, with the laundering instructions on the opposite side (see Figure 2). The finished

32、length of the label shall be 2 to 2-1/8 inches. The labels or marking shall show a minimum of Class 4 colorfastness to accelerated laundering when tested as specified in Test Method AATCC No. 61, Test IVA. The contents of the inscription shall be as follows: (Sweatband only) DLAlOO-00-O-0000 Size 7

33、1/4 (Example) HAND OR MACHINE WASH WARM WITH MID DETERGENT. TUMBLE DRY LOW OR HANG DRY (Hanger loop only) Patterns. The government shall furnish a single size pattern. The contractor is responsible for grading patterns for additional sizes. The pattern generally provides for a seam allowance of l/4

34、inch. The government patterns shall not be altered in any way. The working patterns may be modified to accommodate automation; however, if the working patterns are modified the design and measurements must be maintained as intended by government patterns. the government patterns provided they are ap

35、proved for use by the government and conform to the cited design and finished measurements. Commercial patterns may be used in lieu of 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-. . A-A-5510 9999374 OL2LL30 289 A-A-5 5 1 O 8 Sizes and Measurem

36、ents. The finished hats shall conform to the measurements below. Finished Sizes and Measurements Hat (marked) Head circumference size inches 6 1/2 6 3/4 7 7 1/4 20 1/2 21 1/4 22 22 3/4 Kat (marked) Head circumference inches size 7 1/2 7 3/4 8 8 1/4 8 1/2 23 1/2 24 1/4 25 25 3/4 26 1/2 Tolerance + 3/

37、8 - 1/4 inch Tolerance + 3/8 - 1/4 inch Workmanship. After completion, the finished hats shall be thoroughly clean, and all loose thread, lint, and foreign matter removed. Product Demonstration Model. When required, of ferers shall submit samples of their intended production. The Product Demonstrati

38、on Model will consist of units independently developed. Product Demonstration Models will be analyzed and evaluated by the government. Evaluation criteria and basis for award are contained in the solicitation. Product Demonstration Models will be retained by the government. One (1) Product Demonstra

39、tion Model approved by DPSC under the resultant contract will serve as a manufacturing standard for the corresponding production items delivered under this contract. Offerers are advised that the Product Demonstration Model does not relieve the successful offerer of his responsibility to perform in

40、accordance with the Commercial Item Description specified above. Quality Assurance Certification. The contractor shall certify that the product offered meets the salient characteristics of this description and that the product conforms to the producers own drawings, specifications, standards and qua

41、lity assurance practices. The government reserves the right to require proof of such conformance prior to the first delivery and thereafter as may be otherwise provided for, under the provisions of the contract. Reliance on contractor QA systems shall not relieve the contractor of the responsibility

42、 of ensuring that all products or supplies submitted to the government for acceptance comply with all requirements of the contract. 0 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55LO 9999974 OL2LL3L 115 . A-A-5 5 1 O 8 Examination. Hat lots

43、 shall be inspected in accordance with “Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes“, ANSI/ASQC 21.4, published by the American Society for Quality Control. Visual Examination. The hats shall be examined for the defects listed below. The lot size shall be expressed in units of hats.

44、The sample unit is one hat. The inspection level shall be II and the acceptable quality level (AQL), expressed in terms of defects per hundred units, shall be 4.0. Defects. The hats shall be examined for the following defects: Any size hole, cut, tear, smash, misweave, needle chews, visible mend or

45、burn; marked variation in shade between brim and crown; any spot or stain clearly noticeable; open seams skipped or broken stitches,; brim puckered, twisted or distorted; any crown piece sewn in reverse or seam cover omitted; sweatband irregular in width, joining seam of sweatband superimposed on an

46、y crown seam covering; size omitted, incorrect or illegible, size and/or contract marking improperly placed; rows of continuous stitching not evenly spaced or irregular, and the hat not fabricated in accordance with the product demonstration model Dimensional Examination. The finished hats shall con

47、form to the dimensions specified. Any dimension that is not within the established tolerance shall be classified as a defect. The sample unit shall be one hat; the inspection level shall be S-3 and the AQL, expressed in terms of defects per hundred units, shall be 2.5. Packaaina Examination. The ful

48、ly packaged shipping containers shall be examined in accordance with defects listed below. The lot size shall be the number of shipping containers in the inspection lot. The inspection level shall be 5-2 and AQL, expressed in terms of ,defects per hundred units, shall be 1.5. EXAMINE Marking Omitted

49、; incorrect; illegible; (exterior and interior) of improper size, location, or method of application Ma teria 1 s Any component missing, damaged, or not as specified 8 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-I A-A-55108 9999974 DL2LL32 051 * A-A-55108 EXAMINE DEFECT cont. Workmanship Content Palletization Inadequate application of components, such as: incom