ASTM D6321-1998(2004) Standard Practice for the Evaluation of Machine Washable T-Shirts《可机洗的T恤衫评价的标准操作规程》.pdf

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1、Designation: D 6321 98 (Reapproved 2004)Standard Practice forthe Evaluation of Machine Washable T-Shirts1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 6321; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last r

2、evision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This practice covers test methods and procedures usedto evaluate important characteristics of machine washableT-shirts. T-s

3、hirts may be made of knitted fabric composed ofany textile fiber(s) or blend of fibers and intended to be used asunderwear or as an outer garment.1.2 T-shirts characteristics may be assessed either as a finalproduct or at any intermediate processing stage.1.3 This practice excludes T-shirts intended

4、 for hand wash-ing or dry cleaning care.1.4 The values in SI units are to be regarded as the standard.The values given in parentheses are provided for informationonly.1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of thesafety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is theresponsibility of

5、the user of this standards to establish appro-priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D 123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD 1776 Practice for Conditioning Textiles for TestingD 3786 Test M

6、ethod for Hydraulic Brushing Strength ofKnitted Goods and Nonwoven Fabrics Diaphragm Burst-ing Strength Tester MethodD 3787 Test Method for Bursting Strength of KnittedGoods: Constant-Rate-of-Transverse (CRT), Ball BurstTestD 3887 Specifications for Tolerances for Knitted FabricsD 3940 Test Method f

7、or Bursting Strength and Elongationof Sewn Seams of Knit or Woven Textile Fabrics3D 4154 Performance Specification for Mens and BoysKnitted and Woven Beachwear and Sports Shirt FabricsD 4156 Performance Specification for Womens and GirlsKnitted Sportswear Fabrics2.2 AATCC Test Methods:4Evaluation Pr

8、ocedure 1, Gray Scale for Color ChangeEvaluation Procedure 2, Gray Scale for StainingEvaluation Procedure 7, Instrumental Assessment of theChange in Color of a Textile SpecimenMethod 107, Colorfastness to WaterMethod 150, Dimensional Changes in Automatic HomeLaundering of GarmentsMethod 172, Colorfa

9、stness to Non-Chlorine Bleach inHome LaunderingMethod 179, Skewness Change and Garment Twist inFabrics and Garments After Automatic Home Laundering2.3 Other Documents:A Glossary of AATCC Standard Terminology4Standardization of Home Laundry Text Conditions43. Terminology3.1 Definitions:3.1.1 T-shirt,

10、 na knitted garment, typically constructed ofjersey or 1 by 1 rib fabric, used as either an undergarment or asan outer casual top with a rib collar, hemmed sleeves andbottom, and a body configuration that resembles the letter “T”.3.1.1.1 DiscussionT-shirts may have either crew orv-neck styles; short

11、 or long sleeve lengths, and be adorned withappliques, embroidery, or garment printing or combinations ofadornments. Henley and polo-styles shirts are excluded.3.1.2 For definitions of other textile terms used in thisstandard, refer to terminology in Terminology D 123 andGlossary of AATCC Standard T

12、erminology.4. Significance and Use4.1 This practice may be used to evaluate pertinent charac-teristics of washable T-shirts.4.2 T-shirts may be subject to extra processes such asgarment dyeing, garment washing, printing, application ofembroidery or trims. An individual process or combination orproce

13、sses may affect the performance of the final product.1This practice is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textiles ,and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on Apparel.Current edition approved Oct. 1, 2004. Published November 2004. Originallyapproved in 1998. Last previou

14、s edition approved in 1998 as D 6321 98.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3Withdrawn.4Available

15、 from AATCC, PO Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709.1Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.4.3 This practice may be used by mutual agreement betweenthe purchaser and the supplier to establish purchasing specifi-catio

16、ns.5. Sampling, Selection, and Number of Specimens5.1 Lot SampleTake a lot sample as directed in anapplicable material specification or as agreed between pur-chaser and supplier, such as an agreement to take at randomsome fixed number of shipping containers or garments fromeach lot.5.2 Laboratory Sa

17、mpleFrom each lot sampling unit, takefive T-shirts to be used as the laboratory sample.5.3 Test SpecimenFrom each laboratory sample, twoT-shirts are to be tested as-received and two T-shirts that are tobe laundered. The fifth T-shirt is to be retained as a controlspecimen and not tested.6. Fabric Pe

18、rformance Characteristics6.1 Evaluate fabric designated for T-shirt manufacture usingSpecification D 3887, Performance Specification D 4154, orPerformance Specification D 4156 as appropriate.7. Garment Performance Characteristics7.1 Assessments Prior to Machine Laundering (As-ReceivedState):7.1.1 Co

19、ndition T-shirts in standard atmospheres for testing20 6 3C (70 6 2F) and 65 6 2 % RH according to PracticeD 1776 for 4 hrs.7.1.2 Shade DifferenceExamine each of the four T-shirtsfor shade difference, garment panel-to-panel, using AATCCEvaluation Procedure 1 or 7.NOTE 1Difference results may be obta

20、ined when using the subjectingassessment in AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 when using the instrumen-tal assessment in AATCC Evaluation Procedure 7.7.1.3 DefectsExamine the four T-shirts for needle cutting,seam appearance, surface irregularities, or any other defect andrecord the information.7.1.4 Seam

21、 PerformanceDetermine seam performancefor the two as-received T-shirts as directed in Test MethodD 3940.7.1.5 Bursting ForceIf the fabric is not available for 6.1,determine bursting strength on the as-received T-shirts usingD 3787 or D 3786.7.2 Specimen Preparation Prior to Laundering:7.2.1 Conditio

22、n T-shirts to the standard atmospheres of 206 3C (70 6 2F) and 65 % RH as specified in PracticeD 1776 for at least 4 h.7.2.2 Lay the two T-shirts designated for laundering on a flatsurface without tension, aligning sides and sleeves and smooth-ing to minimize folds and wrinkles.7.2.3 Mark the dimens

23、ions to be measured with an indeliblemarking pen.7.2.3.1 For garment dimensional change, mark the locationsaccording to AATCC TM 150 and as shown in Fig. 1 using aplastic or metal tape graduated in increments of millimetres(116 in.):7.2.3.2 Chest WidthPlace marks “A1” and “A2” 125 mm(5.0 in) below e

24、ach armhole seam. This is Distance “A”.Measure and record the distance across the chest to the nearestmm (116 in.).7.2.3.3 Front LengthFold the T-shirts in half lengthwise,back-to-back, matching shoulder and neck band seams. Lay thefolded T-shirts flat on a smooth surface. Place marks “B1” and“B2” 2

25、5 mm (1 in.) below the center neck band and 25 mm (1in.) above the bottom hem. This is Distance “B”. Measure andrecord the distance between the upper and lower marks to thenearest mm (116 in.).7.2.3.4 Sleeve LengthPlace two T-shirts flat on a smoothsurface. Mark the distance between the upper should

26、er joiningto the lower edge of the sleeve hem. This is Distance “C”.Measure and record the distance between the marked shoulderseam and the hem edge to the measure mm (116).7.2.3.5 Sleeve SeamPlace T-shirts flat on a smooth sur-face. Measure and record the distance between the uppershoulder joining

27、and the underarm seam intersection to thenearest mm (116 in.). This measurement is Distance “D”.7.2.3.6 Sleeve OpeningPlace T-shirts flat with the sleevesfolded. Measure and record the distance between the upperedge of the sleeve hem to the lower edge of the sleeve on theouter edge to the nearest mm

28、 (116 in.). This is Distance “E”.The measured distance should be doubled and recorded.7.2.3.7 Neck OpeningGrasp the neck band at the centerback and the center front, forming a folded edge. Measureacross the folded band. This is Distance “F”. The measureddistance should be doubled and recorded.7.2.4

29、Skewness ChangeMark the T-shirts according toAATCC Test Method 179, marking Option 3. See Fig. 2.7.2.5 Colorfastness to WaterFor dyed or printed T-shirts,prepare specimens for colorfastness to water according toAATCC Test Method 107.7.3 Laundering Conditions:7.3.1 Wash and dry the two T-shirts desig

30、nated for launder-ing using the information on the care label and the applicableprocedure in AATCC Test Method 150. Use washing anddrying conditions that conform to those given in the AATCCmonograph (see 2.3).NOTE 1Refer to AATCC Test Method 150.FIG. 1 Dimensional Change Marking LocationD 6321 98 (2

31、004)27.3.2 If colorfastness to non-chlorine bleach is specified onthe care label, use AATCC Test Method 172. For chlorinebleach colorfastness, follow bleach manufacturers recommen-dations for volume of use and the sequence of addition and thecare label instructions on the T-shirt or requirements agr

32、eedupon between the purchaser and supplier.7.4 Assessment after Machine Laundering:7.4.1 Dimensional ChangeMeasure the dimensionalchange distances after laundering and calculate percent dimen-sional change as directed in AATCC Test Method 150.7.4.2 Skewness ChangeMeasure the marked distancesafter la

33、undering and calculate percent skewness change accord-ing to the AATCC Test Method 179, Option 3.7.4.3 StainingGrade staining of a dyed or printed T-shirtsby using AATCC Test Method 107 and Evaluation Procedure 2.If multifiber or crock square swatches were sewn on theT-shirts before laundering, eval

34、uate the staining performanceusing AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2.7.4.4 Shade DifferenceDetermine shade differences. Ratechange of color on dyed or printed T-shirts from panel to paneland against the original T-shirt. Rate staining using AATCCEvaluation Procedure 2.7.4.5 DefectsExamine T-shirts for de

35、fect agreed upon bythe purchaser and the supplier.7.4.6 Seam PerformanceAssess seam failure as directedin Test Method D 3940.8. Report8.1 State that the specimens were tested as directed inPractice D 6321. Describe the identification of the T-shirtmaterial and the method of sampling used.8.2 Report

36、the following information:8.2.1 The number of T-shirts tested, and8.2.2 The performance characteristics assessed and the re-sults of each.9. Conformance9.1 When the purchaser and supplier have agreed uponspecific requirements for the characteristics assessed, theT-shirts that fail to meet the requir

37、ements may be rejected.10. Keywords10.1 T-shirtsASTM International takes no position respecting the validity of any patent rights asserted in connection with any item mentionedin this standard. Users of this standard are expressly advised that determination of the validity of any such patent rights,

38、 and the riskof infringement of such rights, are entirely their own responsibility.This standard is subject to revision at any time by the responsible technical committee and must be reviewed every five years andif not revised, either reapproved or withdrawn. Your comments are invited either for rev

39、ision of this standard or for additional standardsand should be addressed to ASTM International Headquarters. Your comments will receive careful consideration at a meeting of theresponsible technical committee, which you may attend. If you feel that your comments have not received a fair hearing you

40、 shouldmake your views known to the ASTM Committee on Standards, at the address shown below.This standard is copyrighted by ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959,United States. Individual reprints (single or multiple copies) of this standard may be

41、obtained by contacting ASTM at the aboveaddress or at 610-832-9585 (phone), 610-832-9555 (fax), or serviceastm.org (e-mail); or through the ASTM website(www.astm.org).Refer to AATCC Test Method, 179 Marking, Option 2: AB = Before Launderingand A8BorA9B = After laundering.FIG. 2 T-Shirt Skewness Change, Marking LocationsD 6321 98 (2004)3