ARMY MIL-STD-1490 G-1992 PROVISIONS FOR EVALUATING QUALITY OF COATS MEN'S DRESS《男式礼服质量评价条款》.pdf

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1、MIGSTD-149G 26 AU CI 1992 sxJPmsmING MIGSTD-1490F 17 April 1989 FSC 8405 AKC N/A DISRBVI?ON STATEMENT A. Appraved for Wlic rel-; distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-STD-1490G m 9999933 034b783 TbT m i. Agmci

2、es of the Departnient of Defence. ?his military standard is qmed for use by ail Departnients and 2. Benef iciai canaiientc (recapmierdations, awtions, deletions) and any pertinent data which my be used in impmhq this document should be addresced to: Center, Natick, MA 01760-5019, by ushg the SYandar

3、dization Docxrment Impmemmt praposal (D Form 1426) appear- at the emi of this doc=urrwt or by letter. U.S. Army Natick Research, Bveioysnent, and Ehgheerhg 3. dress coats proaired by the Departnient of ikfense. standard are to: ?his staridard pmides a standanli zed prxxxiiwe for evaluating quality o

4、f The abjectives of this . a. b. Star mre than 1/4 inch (largest dimension in any direction) on outside c. permanent fold, pleat, or crease in cloth (when camt in Ceaming or stitching) on outside b. 3 9 2 3 2 3 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license fr

5、om IHS-,-,-MIL-STD-1470G 7777711 O346773 707 = MIGm149G TABLE III. Classification of defects I/ (contd) l_lll_ -I-I Defect point value I. MATERIAL DE!“ AND WRKMANSHIP DAMAGE (contd) d. Visible needle hole(s) (no thread present) or needle chew, ie, pretence of scuffed or broken yri3nic cause by stitc

6、hing: i. Onoutside: (a) (b) More than 1/4 inch (a) (b) More than 1/2 inch p to 1/4 inch inclusive p to 1/2 inch isdusive (limy 67nd Navy 2. ninside: only 1 e. W by two stitches (WW) (b) By three or mre stitches Johtir seam - use open ceam classification h. Run-off, skim, or broken stitch: 1. 2. Edge

7、, top, or raised stitching (mre than Bartack, tack, or tacking (except buttonhole 1. Missing, inceaire, misplaced, not serving 2. bese stitch tension 3. (See VIIC) 1/4 inch) i. bartack) : intelIE a. Unitted, broken, or defective (see 3.6) b. Cut of horizontal or vertical alimt by: 1. 3/16 to 3/8 inc

8、h 2. More than 3/8 inch c. Misplaced, loose, not attached as specified, or d. Tacking stitches dtted or inceCure (hard sewn) incecnirely sewn 2 3 1 12 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-STD-L490G = 9999933 0346798 490 MIGs“E149oG TAB

9、ZE III. Classification of defects I/ (contd) Defect Point value Ix. EW“ OR TGGL3 (cantd) e. Eutton sewn with wings of eagle or shield in other than upright position (front and flap buttons) or Shaulder loop buttons sewn to coat with the spread wings of the eagle, or shield not in specified position

10、incecurely wram (tug at looce erd of the thread when a-ible to determine whether it will ravel) f. g. shank wrapping (when required) Qmitted, loose, or Stitching on button not locked at end of cycle X. SNAP FASTENER (when applicable) a. b. c. d. Sti- of stud visible on outside of flap Kissing, loose

11、, broken, defective, or mismatal Misplaced or not positioned as specified Tacking stitches dtted or insecUre on one or more handcewn factenerc XI. ALIGNME“0FF“WL“OREUIKNIWLE a. Tbp front button or buttonhole of Group A coat (see page ii) aut of horizontal alignrent with bmt pocket flap buttons: 1. 2

12、. 1. Ely mre than 1/2 inch By more than 3/8 inch but not mre than 1/2 incha For Gq A Army and Air Force coats, bottan front button or buttonhole varies from 7/8 inch (Army coats) or 3/4 inch (Air Force coats) above top edge of lwer pocket flap by: (a) (b) Top front button or buttonhole of Group B co

13、at or 1- front button or buttonhole (all coats) misplaced: (a) (b) b. Button or buttonhole misplaced: More than 1/8 inch up to 1/4 inch More than 1/4 inch up to 3/8 inch (Army coats) 2. By more than 3/8 inch but I= stitching joining flap to front not caught through twill cloth stay piece or flap not

14、 ccpnpletely mer- ingpocketapenirig 4. 5. 6. Misplaced, not positioned as specified Raw edge beneath top edge of flap: comer of Wittonhole out of alicjnnrmt with point at flap not securely Isackstitched center of flap by more than 1/8 inch or not psitioned as cpecified 7. overedge stitching canitted

15、 e. Breact pocket flap: GraupA coat 1. Point at center of flap fm center of pocket pleat: (a) More than 1/8 inch up to 1/4 inch inclusive 2 3 (b) More than 1/4 inch LrxJer side edge of flap awerhq side of pocket less than 1/16 or more than 3/16 inch When pocket flaps are tacke at ea or pleat set on

16、crookedly or slanted by 1/8 inch or more miil cloth exposed on pocket edge (when lined pocket construction is used or twill cloth tight or short causing fullness or puclers in Pleat not stitched closed; width of pleat not as specified; or edge stitching not catching Stitching at end of pocket openin

17、g not securely stitched thnxaFpi stay piece; or end of stitch- ing at end of pocket not backtack tacking inseaire or tacking canitted 6. or more (measure frm collar breakline to erd of gorge seam notABLE III. Classification of defects 1/ (contd) Defect point value XIV. Al?EL OR COJAR (contd) d. Coll

18、ar: (contd) 8. Top collar full, having pcker or folds 1/8 inch or more fm edge of undercollar Interlining pleated, affecting smoothness of txlp collar Center seam more than 1/4 inch froan center back seam; width of undercollar stanti at center back seam not as specified Interlining or undercollar ti

19、ght causing pleat or puckers on undercollar of neck of coat Lm=r raw edge of undescollar not mclosed within felling stitches for more than 3/4 inch Blind tacking at comer of collar and lapel exposed on outside of coat Battan edge of undercollar exposed beyond collar edge e. Undercollar: i. 2. 3. 4.

20、5. 6. f. Lapel: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. Gap between top edge of lapel and end of collar on one side of coat not Uniform with other side of coat by: More than 1/8 inch up to 1/4 inch (all (a) (b) More than 1/4 up to 3/8 inch (Army, Navy (c) mre than 3/8 inch (Army, Navy and (d) More than 1/4 imh (Mar

21、k Coqs) Tap edge of lapel ard end of collar gaping more than 1/4 inch (Army and Navy peak lapel coats) except Air Force) and Air Force) Air Force) Fuckers or pleat -pel edge irregular or wavy -pel edge not fully foroed out (i.e., having folds of more than 1/8 inch), or front part exposal on lapel ed

22、ge Bridle tape not held taut, causing points of lapel or collar to roll outwar and not finish flat or to be misplaced (i.e., tape exten=iing beyond breakline on lapel side) Nlnecc (not 91100th and flat) Bridle tape misplaced: (Army, Navy and (a) At gorge: (1) Marine corps) More than 3/8 inch behind

23、lapel breakline 2 2 2 3 * * 3 3 2 2 3 2 3 18 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-STD-1470G LL 0346804 514 TABLE III. Classification of defects I/ (contd) Defect mint due f. Lapel: (contd) XIV. LAPEL OR 3LTAR (contd) (2) (3) At 1-1/2 i

24、nches fm lapel battan: (i) (2) (3) Bridle tape end not within 1 to 1-1/2 ridle lapel baste onto or extending More than 5/8 inch behind lapel beyond breakline on lapel side * breakline * (b) ore than 5/8 inch behind lapel Bridle tape baste onto or extending Bridle tape more than 7/8 inch behind break

25、line beyorid breakline on lapel side lapel breakline * * (c) inches fm bottcmn of lapel 2 xv. s1.KxTLDERcoNsTTncrIoN a. Improperly joined or set, causing choulder or b. Shoulder seam curved tawards back frcan noml 1. More than 3/8 inch 2. 1/4 inch up to 3/8 inch, inclusive back to twist position at

26、armhole erd by: 3 2 1 XVI. SHOUIDERPAD Not ccpnpletely caught in armhole tacking; or mis- placed, not serving intemled purpose, i.e., too far back or too far forward 3 XVII. EZIOULDRLIXIP a. Not Uniform in size or shape - any point varying: 1. 2. More than 3/8 inch with correcponding point on 1/4 in

27、ch up to 3/8 inch (inclusive) with b. Misplaced, i.e., shoulder seam exposd or loop will c. Button not aligned with buttonhole causing bulge or matchingpart 3 correcponding point on iMtChing part 2 2 2 not lay flat when buttone causing bulge or twist twist on loop or pcker on shoulder d. Foint of lo

28、op extending beyond collar -line 1 not as specified 1 not Uniformly set by more than 1/4 inch e. Width of loop at sleevehead or at base of point f. Buttonhole 1/4 inch or more off center, or buttons 1 19 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-

29、,-MIL-STD-14SOG = 9999911 0346805 450 MIL-STD- 149OG TABLE III. Classification of defects J/ (contd) Defect Point value XVII. SHCULDER IXP (contd) g. Back edge of loop more than 3/4 inch from shoulder seam at armhole; point of loop back of shoulder seam or point of loop more than 1/2 inch forward Po

30、sition of shoulder loop button from collar edge 1. 2. of shoulder seam 1 not as specified: h. Less than 1/8 inch but not covered by collar Partially covered by collar edge (half of edge or more than 1/2 inch button or less) 1 3. Button more than half covered by collar edge 1 i. Interlining not caugh

31、t in seaming of loop 1 j. other than one piece construction 1 1 * k. 1. Set upside down exposing underside seam Back edge of loop more than 1/2 inch from shoulder seam (Group A Marine Corps coats only) 2 XVIII. ARMHOLE OR SHOULDER a. locations : Fullness or puckering in any of the follming 1. 2. 3.

32、b. mickering on front or back of coat around armhole from back seam to forearm seam c. Stretched, affecting appearance d. Crooked seam; armhole not completely tacked; Over shoulder in back area In collar or shoulder area Between lapel and sleeve seam sleevehead pad not completely tacked; or sleeve-

33、head pad misplaced, not serving intended purpose XIX. SLEEVE a. Setting and hang: 1. Break or twist on sleeve, or top sleevehead too short 2. Sleeve fullness misplaced or concentrated in one area 3. Sleeve tight, i.e., front or back part of sleeve not having roll effect at armhole 4. Sleeve too far

34、front or back, i.e., front edge of sleeve away frcan center of lwer flap button or center of pocket: (a) Front creased edge of sleeve more than 2-1/2 inches or less than 1 inch behind 20 3 3 3 3 3 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL

35、-STD-L4DG LL 0346806 397 . T.ABLi3 III. Classification of defects 1/ (contd) XIX. * 3 2 Defect point value SLEEVE (contd) a. Setting and hang: (contld) center of lwer flap button or forward of button (Group A Marine Corps Coats only) (b) Wre than 2 inches6/ (c) More than 1 illdl up to 2 inChecl Slee

36、ve lining too lorig, causing lining to inclusive 6/ 5. sag belm bottcnn edge of sleeve by mre than 1/4 inch b. nstruction of sleeve: Wigan twisted, tight, or pleated, caushq ridge i. or puckering on outside of sleeve edge of sleeve by mre than i/a inch, or tacking on bottom tum up to wigan omitted o

37、r insecme Sleeve 1ini.n seam cut of alignment more than 3/4 in or sti-ed loosely causirq pckers or pleat on braid 2. Battaan edge of wigan not extending tobottcan 1 3. f 1 4. 5. 1 3 6. fullness or twist on cutside of sleeve c. Sleeve braid: 1. 2. d. Sleeve cuffs: 1. Height of cuffs at front and back

38、 edges: (a) More than 3-5/8 inches or less than (b) More than 3-1/2 inchec or less than Height of cuffs at pokt on top sleeve more than 6-1/4 inches or less than 5-3/4 inches Tap edge on top sleeve part poorly sham, affecting appearance 3-1/8 inches at front 3 inches at back 2. 3. 1 2 2 2 21 Provide

39、d by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-STD-1470G 9999911 034b807 223 MIGST- 14 9 G TABLE III. Classification of defects iJ (contd) Defect point value XIX. sEEVE (contd) d. Sleeve cuffs: (contd) 4. ?he point of cuff not ntered between lmer cuffs

40、 not uniform in size or shape with backarm and forearm creased edges of sleeves by more than 3/16 indi 2 5. * correspmtbq points by more than 1/4 inch xx. l?rITmG a. Fitting of body and yoke 1h.b: tight, short, b. Fitting of front interlining: or twisted causing fullness or twist on outside of coat

41、i. 2. Tight or short, caucbq fullness on outside Too full, causing coat front to have a wavy of coat appearance or not lie smothly 3 3 3 XXI. 3 mANDEorIW4EDsE a. b. Front rolling outwani below bottan button Flront edge stretched, puckered or folded more than 1/8 inch on front or bottan edge, front e

42、dge irregular, or bottcw corner of left front miss- Left front belw bottan button swings to right or hapn or distorted 2 left of the perpendicular by more than 1/2 inch c. 1 XI. VENT OPENING a. b. eft vent edge stretch or right vent lining tight, short, or twisted, causing fullness on or felling at

43、bottan corner of facings anitted or incec=ure m11. INsIrn POCKET a. peningnotextembq into facing or exkdirg b. Tacking along front edge of twill cloth Ixcket 1. *ttd or inseare 2. into amhole through facing ary1 interlining (hard): Extenahg for a distance of less than 5 inches c. Staypiecenot exbrdu

44、y toamholeseam, stay piece not stitdied to inbq, pocket opening badly gapped, width of opening or depth of pocket not as specified Tackhq on back upper comer to hterlinirq dtW or jnseare d. O XXXIV. IABEL a. Missing, im=orrect, or illegible: 1. Size, label, instruction label, or ccanbination 2. Iden

45、tification label Not atta- as specified, misplaced, or stitching label b. through the printing xxxv. CARDBQARD-wmmER Missing, incorrect, or illegible XXXVI. SIZE TICUEI a. Missing, incorrect, or illegible b. Not se-;irely tacked to right front sleeve XXXVII. BACK YOKE a. Width of center pleat less t

46、han specified, center Felling at 1- edge of yoke lining to side pleat dtted, or width of bottcan hem not as specified seam outlet anitted or inseairely felled on om or both sides b. 1 1 1 1 1 3 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 25 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from

47、 IHS-,-,-MIL-STD-3490G 9999933 0346811 754 I 1 i O l i 1 04 I MIGS!i-l490G TABLE III. Classification of defects lJ (mntd) Defect Point value XMNIII. FRCW BODY Il“G a. Pleat mittT. BINDING ON CAT (when applicable) a. b. c. Not caught on fabric, caucirq binding to pl1 away Binding tight, causing edge

48、of seam to curl and not Back folded ege of body lining not covering end of froan fabric easily lie flat binding XLTI. E!cnlnMHEMANDIuEwup 1/4 inch or mo= inceaire a. b. Hem and back parts twisted or irregular in width by Tacking on turnup of front to front omitted or m11. LEFT m FLY a. unitted b. c.

49、 Rai& stitching along front &ge dtted Width of fly stitchirig fm apen ege less than 2 inches or mm than 2-3/4 inches w. SWEATSHIELD a. Plad CO that front ege covers inside pccket opening 1/4 in& or more, or 1/2 inch or more back of forearm seam of sleeve lining 26 2 2 1 2 1 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 3 2 1 1 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reprod