ARMY CCC-C-461 C-1972 CLOTH TWILL UNIFORM COTTON《制服呢多经丝筛布》.pdf

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1、Fed. Spec. CCC-C-461B January 23, 1968 FEDERAL SPECIFICATION CLOTH, TWILL, UNIFORM COTTON This specification was approved by.the Commissioner, Federal Supply Service, General Services Administration, for the use of all .Federal agencies , 1. SCOPE AND CLASSIFICATION 1.1 Scope. This specification cov

2、ers the requirement for uniform cotton twill cloth, 1.2 Classification. Nominal weight Yarn oz. per PlY Type sq. yd. warp-filling Yarn I II III IV V 8.2 8.2 8.0 7.5 7.5 2x2 2x1 1x1 1x1 1x1 Comb ed Combed Combed Combed Carded VI 8.4 1x1 Carded FSC 8305 Licensed by Information Handling ServicesCCC-C-4

3、61C 2. APPLICABLE WCUMENTS 2.1 The following documents, of the issues in effect on date of invitation for bids or request for proposal, form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Federal Specifications: V-T-276 - Thread, Cotton. PPP-P-1134 - Packaging and Packing of Cotton and

4、 Cotton- Synthetic Fiber Blend Fabrics (Excluding Duck Fabrics). Federal Standards: Fed. Std. No, 4 - Glossary of Fabric Imperfections. Fed. Std. No. 191 - Textile Test Methods. (Activities outside the Federal Government may obtain copies of Federal Specifications, Standards, and Handbooks as outlin

5、ed under General Information in the Index of Federal Specifications and Standards and at the prices in- dicated in the Index. The Index, which includes cumulative monthly supple- ments as issued is for sale on a subscription basis by the Superintendent of Documents, U. S. Government Printing Office,

6、 Washington, D.C. 20402. (Single copies of this specification and other Federal Specifications re- quired by activities outside the Federal Government for bidding purposes are available without charge at the General Services Administration Regional Offices in Boston, New York, Washington, D.C., Atla

7、nta, Chicago, Kansas City, Mo., Fort Worth, Denver, San Francisco, Los Angeles, and Seattle, Washington. (Federal Government activities may obtain copies of Federal Specifications, Standards, and Handbooks and the Index of Federal Specifications and Stand- ards from established distribution points i

8、n their agencies.) Military Standard: MIL-STD-105 - Sampling Procedures and Tables or Inspection by Attributes. (Copies of Mllitary Specifications and Standards required by suppliers in connection with specific procurement functions should be obtained from the procuring activity or as directed by th

9、e contracting officer.) 2 Licensed by Information Handling ServicesCCC-C-463C 83 m 7777774 0053758 B m CCC-C-461C Laws and Regulations: Federal Trade Commission Publication: Rules and Regulations under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act (16 CFR 303). 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1 Standard sample. I

10、dhen a standard sample is established, the cloth shall match the standard sample for shade and shall be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced (see 6,3). 3.2 Material. 3.2.1 Yarn. The yarn shall be made from clean c

11、otton, and shall be - carded or combed, and single or plied, as specified in table I. Licensed by Information Handling ServicesI H i H 4 u u O hl rl O rl FI O rl rl O rl 4 O O rl Co O W N O O N rl rlrl rl rl 4rl rl O 9 ? ? W U W Co Co Co l- l- Co 6 . ? ? h hl N N I- l- l- l- l- Co . . . Licensed by

12、Information Handling ServicesCCC-C-9bLC 83 7797779 0053960 b M CCC-C-461C 3.3 Color. 3.3.1 Dyed cloth. The color of the dyed cloth shall be as specified (see 6 -2) and shall match the available standard sample. The use of dyes or substances containing elementary sulfur or compounds capable of oxidat

13、ion to sulfuric acid is prohibited. The dyed and finished cloth shall contain no more labile sulfur than that shown by the standard sample when tested as specified in 4.4. When a standard sample is not available, the dyed and finished cloth shall show no more than a slight trace of labile sulfur as

14、defined in the test method when tested as specified in 4.4. 3.3.2 White cloth. When white is specified, the.cloth shall be bleached white to match the standard sample (see 6.3). The cloth shall be fully bleached and may be supplemented with fluorescent optical brightener with a resulting peak emissi

15、on in the blue violet. The white finished cloth shall not discolor to a degree greater than that shown by the standard sample when tested as specified in 4.4. When no standard sample is available the dis- coloration shall be no worse than the rating of “fair“ when tested as speci- fied in 4.4. 3.3.3

16、 Matching. When a standard sample is established, the color shall match the standard sample under natural (north sky) daylight or artificial daylight having a -color temperature of 7500 Kelvin and shall be a good approximation to the standard sample under incandescent lamplight at 2800O Kelvin. 3.3.

17、4 Colorfastness. 3.3.4.1 Dyed cloth. The dyed cloth shall Shaw colorfastness to laundering (after 3 cycles), perspiration, crocking and light equal to or better than the standard sample (see 6.3). When no standard sample is established, or is not referenced for colorfastness, the dyed cloth, unless

18、otherwise speci- fied (see 6.2). shall Shaw “good“ colorfastness to laundering (after 3 cycles), perspiration, light and no more crocking than Munsell Value 8.5 . when tested as specified in 4.4. 3.4 Physical requirements. The finished cloth shall conform to the requirements shown in table I when te

19、sted as specified in 4.4. 3 . 4.1 Width. The minimum width .of the finished cloth, inclusive of selvages, shall be as specified (see 6.2). 5 Licensed by Information Handling ServicesCCC-C-461C 3.5 Finish. The cloth shall be closely singed, desized, and mercerized, When white is specified, the cloth

20、shall be closely singed, desized, mer- cerized and bleached. The weave shall be uniform, clear and prominent, 3.5.1 Nonfibrous materials. The st.arch and protein content including chloroform-soluble and water-soluble material of the finished cloth shall not exceed 2.0 percent when tested as specifie

21、d in 4.4. 3,6 pH. The pH value of the water extract of dyed and finished cloth shall be not lower than 5.5 or higher than 8,5 when tested as specified in 44, 3.7 Shrinkage. The cloth shall be preshrunk so that the residual shrink- age shall be not more than 1.0 percent in either the warp or filling

22、direc- tion of the cloth when tested as specified in 4.4. The preshrinking process used shall not be identified on the cloth, the ticket, or on the package. 3.8 Seam efficiency. The finished cloth-for all types shall have a seam efficiency of not less than 80 percent when tested as specified in 4.4

23、. 3.9 Length and put-up. Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), the cloth shall 6e furnished in continuous lengths each not less than 40 yards, The cloth shall be put up in flat folds as specified in PPP-P-1134.- 3.10 Fiber identification. Each piece of cloth shall be labeled, ticketed, or invoiced f

24、or fiber content in accordance with the Rules and Regulations Under the Yextile Fiber Products Identification Act (see 2,1) 3.11 Face marking. The face side of the cloth shall be identified by applying a stamping on that side of the cloth with the word “Face“ at each end of. the piece. 3.12 Workmans

25、hip. The finished cloth shall conform to the quality es- tablished by this specification. The demerit points per 100 square yards, when calculated as specified in section 4, shall not exceed the established maximum point value, 4, QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS 4.1 Responsibility for inspection. Unles

26、s otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, the supplier is responsible for the performance Of all inspection requirements as specified herein. Except as otherwise specified in the contract or order, the supplier may use his own or any other facilities suitable for the performance of th

27、e inspection requirements specified herein, unless disapproved by the Government. The Government reserves the right to perform any of the inspections set forth in the speci- fication where such inspections are deemed necessary to assure that spplies and services conform to prescribed requirements. !

28、 Licensed by Information Handling ServicesCCC-C-461C 4.1.1 Certificate of compliance. Where certificates of compliance are submitted, the Government reserves the right to check test such items to determine the validity of the certification. 4.2 Inspection. Sampling- for inspection shall be performed

29、 in accordance with MIL-STD-105, except where otherwise indicated hereinafter . 4.2.1 .Component and material inspection. In accordance with 4.1, com- ponents and materials shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced specifications, drawings and standards unless otherwise e

30、x- cluded,.amended, or qualified in this specification or applicable procurement documents, 4.2-2 Examination of the end tem. Examination of the end item shall be in accordance with 4,2.2.1 through 4.2,5, 4.2.2,l Yard-by-yard examination. Each piece in the sample. shali be examined on the face side

31、only. When the total-yardage in the piece does not exceed 100 yards, the entire yardage in the piece shall be examined. When the total yardage in the piece exceeds 100 yards,. only 100 yardishall be examined. All defects as defined in section 1 of Fed, Std. No. 4 which are clearly noticeable at norm

32、al inspection distance (3 feet) shall be scored and assigned demerit points as listed in 4.2.2.1.1 except that only those slubs and knots which exceed the limits shown .in figure 1 of Fed. Std, No. 4 shall be scored. No linear yard shall be penalized more than 4 points. The sample size shall be 20 p

33、ieces selected from 20 containers. The lot. shall be unacceptable if the points per 100 square yards of the total yardage examined exceeds the following point values: 25.0 points for dyed cloth. 30.0 points for white cloth, The lot shall be unacceptable if the points per 100 square yards of two or m

34、ore individual pieces exceed the following value: 38.0 points for dyed cloth. 45.0 points for white cloth. If one piece exceeds the point level, a second sample of 20 pieces shall be selected for individual piece quality examination only. The lot shall be unacceptable if one or more pieces in the se

35、cond sample exceeds the point level. Point computation for lot quality and fndividual piece quality shall be as follows: Total points scored in sample size x 3600 = Points per 100 Contracted width of cloth (inches) x total yards inspected square yards. 7 Licensed by Information Handling ServicesCCC-

36、C-461C 4.2.2.1.1 Demerit points. Demerit points shall be assigned as follows: For defects 3 inches or less in any For defects exceeding 3 inches, but not For defects exceeding 6 inches, but not For defects exceeding 9 inches in any di- dimension - one point. exceeding 6 inches in any dimension - two

37、 points, exceeding 9 inches in any dimension - three points. mension - four points, The following defects, when present, shall be scored four points for each yard in which they occur: Baggy, ridgy, or wavy cloth. Overall uncleanness. Width less than specified, Poor dye penetration, mottled, streaky

38、or cloudy. 4.2.3 Examination for length. 4.2.3.1 Individual pieces. During the yard-by-yard examination, each piece in the sample shall be examined for length, Any length found to be less than the minimum kpecified or more than two yards less than the length marked on the ticket shall be considered

39、a defect with respect to length. The lot shall be unacceptable if two or more pieces in the sample are defec- tive in respect to length. 4.2.3.2 Total yardage in sample, The lot shall be unacceptable if the total of the actual lengths of pieces in the sample is less than the total of the lengths mar

40、ked on the tickets. 4.2.4 Examination for shade. During the yard-by-yard examination each piece in the sample shall be examined for shade. Any piece in the sample off shade, shaded side to side, side to center, or end to end shall be cause for rejection of the entire lot represented by the sample, 4

41、.2.5 Examination for face markings, identification of preshrinkage process and compliance with the Rules and Regulations Under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act. During the yard-by-yard examination, 8 Licensed by Information Handling ServicesCCC-C-461C each piece in the sample shall be e

42、xamined for defects listed below. The lot shall be unacceptable if two or more of the following defects are present in the sample: Face stamping missing from either or both ends. Face stamping on wrong side. Preshrinkage process identified by name or trademark on cloth or ticket. Not labeled, ticket

43、ed or invoiced in accordance with the Rules and Regulations Under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act. 4.3 Examination of preparation or delivery requirements. An examination shall be made in accordance with the provisions of PPP-P-1134 to determine whether packaging, packing, and marking

44、complies with section 5 requirements. 4.4 Testino of the end item, The methods of testing specified in Fed. Std. No. 191, wherever applicable, and as listed in table II shall be followed, The physical and chemical values specified in section 3 apply to the average of the determinations made on a sam

45、ple unit for test purposes as specified in the applicable test method. The sample unit shall be 5 con- tinuous yards, full width of the finished cloth. The sample size (number or sample units), shall be as shown in the list below. The lot size shall be expressed in units of 1 yard. The lot shall be

46、unacceptable if one or more sample units fail to meet any test requirements specified. All test reports shall contain the individual value utilized in expressing the final results, Lot size (yards) Sample size 800 or less 2 801 up to and including 22,000 22,001 and over 3 5 TABLE II. Test methods Re

47、quirement Test Characteristic paragraph method Cotton Combed Carded identification 3.2.1 and 3.4 cotton (types I, II, III and IV) 3.2.1 and 3.4 cotton (types V and VI) 3.2.1 and 3.4 9 Licensed by Information Handling ServicesCCC-C-461C TABLE II .- Test methods (cont dl Characteristic Yarn ply Labile

48、 sulfur Discoloration (bleached) Colorfastness to: Laundering (after 3 cycles) Perspiration Light Crocking Weight Yarns per inch : I Warp Filling Breaking strength: I Warp Filling Weave Singed Identification of mercerization Nonfibrous material content Requirement Test paragraph method 3.2,l and 3.4

49、 3.3 I 2020 3.3.2 3e3e4e1 3.3.4.1 3.3.4.1 3,3.4.1 3*4 3 *4 3 e4 3.4 3.4 3*4 3*5 3.5 3.5.1 5660 2/ L/ 5610 i/ I/ 5680 5660 k/ 5651 I 5041 5050 5050 5 100 I 5100 I Plicroscopic examination for swelling of cotton fiber L/ g/ 2611 10 Licensed by Information Handling ServicesCCC-C-461C- TABLE II .- Test methods (cont d) Characteris tic Shrinkage in laundering: Warp Filling Seam efficiency PH Requirement paragraph 3.7 3.7 3.8 3.6 l Test. method 5550 5550 5110 5/ 2811 - - 1/ Unless otherwise specified, a certificate of compliance is required and will be acceptable for the requirement