AIR FORCE MIL-C-363 A-1973 CLOTH WOOL KNITTED《针织羊毛布匹》.pdf

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1、4f . MIL-C-A(USAF) SUPERSEDING 24 SePtenber 1973 JAN-E363 28 June 1946 MILITARY CPECIFICATIOIJ 1. SCOPE 1.1 This specification covers the requirements for one type knitted wool fabric. 2. APPLICABLE mcUMEIpTs 2.1 The foliowing documents of the issue in effect on Cotton) Fabrics Military MIL-C-43665

2、Cloth Wool: Mothproofing Treatment Of STANDARDS Federal Fn-s!rD-ig1 Textile Test Methods Military 1tsm-105 ML-STD-1491 Glossary of Knitting Imperfections Sampling Procedures And Table For inspection & Attributes (Copies of specifications, standards , drawings , and publications required %y suppliers

3、 in connection with specific procurement functions should be obtained from the procuring activity or 8s directed by the contracting officer.) 2.2 Other ublications. cation to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise indicated, the issue in effect on date of invitation for bids or request for pr

4、oposal shall apply. The folloking documents form a part of this specifi- FFC e.305 M Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- .- - I 1 MIL-C-3b3A 83 m 777770b 0370780 7 m MIL-G363A(USAF) 4 U.S. Department of Agriculture Methods of Test for Gr

5、ade of Wool (Application for copies should be addressed to the U.S. Department of Agriculture , Agriculture Marketing Service, Washington D.C. 20402. Rules and Regulations Under the Wool Products Labeling Act of 1939 (Application for copies should be addressed to the Superintendent of Documents, Gov

6、ernment Printing Office, Washington D.C. 20402.) 3. REQUIREh?!TS * 3.1 Standard sample. The finished cloth shall match the standard sample for shade and shall be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to ail characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced (see 6.3). * 3

7、.2 First article approval. Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), before production is commenced, 3-1/2 continuous yards full width of the finished cloth shall be submitted to or made ready for the contracting officer or his 8UthOriZed representative for inspection as specified in 4.2,. The approval

8、of the first article authorizes the commencement of production but does not relieve the supplier of the responsibility for compliance with.all applicable provisions of this specification. The first article shall be manufactured by the supplier in the same facilities to be used for the manufacture of

9、 the production items. * 3.3 kterials. * 3.3.1 m. The wool shall be fleece or pulled wool, or any combination thereof, not lower in grade than 56s U.S. Department of Agriculture standard. The use of noils, card fly, card strippings, reused or reprocessed wool is prohibited. 95 percen+, wool based on

10、 the dry weight of the specimen when tested as speci- fied in 4.4. Garnets of any kind are prohibited. * 3.3.1.1 Wool content. The finished knitted cloth shall contain not less than * 3.3.2 m. The wool shall be well carded and evenly spun on the woolen system into a single yarn. * 3.4 Color. * 3.4.1

11、 Matchinq. The color of the finished cloth shall match the standard The color shall be sage green USAF color No. i525 and shall match the standard smle (see 6.3). sample under natural (North Sky) darlight or artificial daylight having a color temperature of 7500 Kelvin and shall be a good approximat

12、ion to the standard sample under incandescent laniplight of. 2800 Kelvin. * 3.4.2 Colorfastness. The finished cloth shall show fastness to wet dryclean- inc, :erssiration, and crocking equal to or better than the standard sample. When a standard sarple is not available, the finished cloth shall show

13、 good fastness to wet drycleaning, peycpiration, and crocking. A Munsell Value for crocking shall not be lover than 8.5 when tested as specified in 4.4. 2 I Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-! Width (Excluding Selvage, Inches Minimum) 5

14、4 MIL-C-363A 83 7779706 037078L 7 a m-C-363( WAF) 3.4.3 kthnroofing. piece dyeing is permitted, shall be mothproofed in accordance with KIL-C-43665. 3.5 Physical rewirements, requirements specified in Table I when tested as specified in 4.4. n the dyeing operation, the stock, topor cloth, when The f

15、inished cloth shall conform to the physical Weight (Based on of 54 In) Per Per Bursting Shrinkage Ounces Inch inch Strength (Maximum) Thickness Shrinkage (Minimum) Minimum Minimum (lbs) Length (Inches) Width Linear Yd wales Courses tanimum 22.5 15 17 60 5.0 0.1 psi To not less percent (min) than 54

16、3.5-1 Knittinp, the requirements of this specification. prior to napping. 3.6 Finish. (carbonized if necessary) sufficiently fulled and napped to produce a degree of finish equal to the standard sample. sides. single acting napper shall be linited to the breaker operation. finishing or loading mater

17、ials to increase the weight or bursting strength will not be permitted. fibers to offer resistance to lifting with a needle equal to or better than the standard sample. 3.6.1 pH. be lower than 4.0 or higher than 8.0 when tested as specified in 4.4. 3.7 Lennth and Put UP. be furnished in continuous l

18、engths, each not less than 50 yards. shall be put up in 8 full width roll as specified in PPP-P-1132. 3.8 Labels. accordance with the Wool Products Labeling Act of 1939. 3.9 WorkmanshiP. by this specification. The demerit points per 100 square yards when calculated as specified in Section 4 shall no

19、t exceed the established mRximum point value. The fabric shall be either warp or circular (tubular) knit to Circular (tubular) knit shall be slit The finished meterial shall be free from vegetable matter The cloth shall be napped on both The napping process may be started either wet or &y. ”he use o

20、f a The use of The character of nap shall be such as will cause the napped The pH value of the water extract of the finished cloth shall not Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), the cloth shall Each length Cloth manufactured under the specification shall be labeled in The finished cloth shall confo

21、rm to the quality established 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-I MIL-C-3b3A 83 W 9997906 0370782 O - MIL-C-A(CAF) 4. QUALITY AScuRAncE PROVISIONS 4.1 ResDonsibility for insDection. Unless otherwise specified in the contract or purcha

22、se order, the supplier is responsible for the performance of ell inspection requirements as specified herein. the contract or order, the suppliir may use his own or any other facilities suitable for the performance of the hspection?requirements specified herein, unless disapproved by the Government.

23、 The Government reserves the right to perform any of the inspections set forth in the specification where such inspections are deemed necessary to assure supplies and services conform to prescribed requirements. 4.1.1 Certificate of compliance. Where certificates of compliance are sub- mikted, the G

24、overnment reserves the right to check test such items to determine the validity of the certification. 4.2 InsDection. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with MIL-STD-105, except where otherwise indicated hereinafter. 4.2.1 Comvonent and material inswction. In accordance with 4.

25、1 above, components and materials shall be inspected and tested in accordance Kith all. the requirements of referenced specifications and st,andards unless other- wise excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this specification or applicable purchase document. 4.2.1.1 u. the scoured form (prior t

26、o picking, carding or dyeing) by comparison with the applicable U.S. Standard. comparison, the wool grade shall be determined by a width method (wedge). The examination for grade shall be performed on a composite sample of one pound of scoured wool for each 10,000 pounds or fraction thereof in the l

27、ot. camposite sample shall be selected from not less than 10 percent of the bales or bags in the lot. conform to the requirements of 3.3.1. ? 4 Except as otherwise specified in The -01 shall be visually examined for grade (see 3.3,l) in In the event of dispute, resulting from this The The lot shall

28、be unacceptable if the sm.ple does not 4.2.2 Inprocess inspection. any phase of the manafacturing process to assure that only approved wools are wed (see 3.3.1) and that the dyeing requirements have been adhered to (see 3.4). acceptance any material for which inprocess inspection has indicated nonco

29、n- formance. 4.2.3 Examination of the end item. accordance with .4.2,3.1 through 4.2.3.3. 4.2.3.1 Yard-by-yard examination. on the face side (however the side shall be alternated on every other roll). The yardage examined shall be in consecutive order. the roll does not exceed 100 yards, the entire

30、yardage in the roll shall be shall be examined. Inspection shall be made at any point during The Goverment reserves the right to exclude from consideration for . Examination of the .end item shall be in Each roll in the sample shall be examined When the total yardage in . examined. When the total ya

31、rdage in the roll exceeds 100 yards, only 100 yards 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-* 4.2.3.1.1 Sample size. Lot size (Yards) 3200 or less 3201 up to and including 10,000 10,001 and over MIL-C-363A(UEAF) I 4 Smle Size (Iios) 8 13 20

32、 - i/ No more than one roll shall be taken from any shipping container unless the number of shipping containers in the lot is less than the required number of rolls. * 8.2.3.1.2 Defect scoring. All defects, as defined in MIL-STD-1491, which are Defects on the selvage shall clearly noticeable at norm

33、al inspection distance (3 feet) shall be scored and assigned demerit points, as listed in 4.2.3.1.3. not be scored unless the body of the cloth is affected. (increments of 1 yard on the measuring device of the inspection machine) from any one roll within the sample shall be penalized more than 4 poi

34、nts. shall be unacceptable if the points per 100 square yards of two or more individual rolls exceed 15.0 points. be taken from a different roll. rolls in the second sample exceed 15.0 points per 100 square yards. computation for lot quality and individual roll quality shall be as follows: No linear

35、eyard The lot If the lot fails, a second sample shall “he lot shall be unacceptable if one or more Point Total mints scored in samvle X 3600 Points per 100 Contracted width of cloth (inches) X Total yards inspected * 4.2.3.1.3 Demerit points. Demerit points shall be assigned as follows: square yards

36、 For defects 3 inches or less in any dimension For defects exceeding 3 inches, but not For defects exceeding 6 inches, but not For defects exceeding 9 inches in any dimension - one point exceeding 6 inches in any dimension - two points exceeding 9 inches in any dimension - three points - four points

37、 The following defects, when present, shall be scored four points for each yard in wich they occur: Degree and character of finish on the face, the back, or both sides, not equal to standard sample. Width less than specified. 4.2.3.2 Examination for lenpth. * 4.2.3.2.1 Individual rolls. During the y

38、ard-by-yard exarrdnation each roll in the sample shall be examined for length. the minimum specified or more than two yards less than the len&h marked on the ticket shall be considered a defect with respect to len&h. be unacceptable if two or mre rolls in the saxple are defective ir. respect to leng

39、th. Any lend& found to be less than !%e lot shall 5 -=- Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-1 MIL-C-363A 83 7777906 0370989 4 MIL-E363A(USAF) * 4.2.3.2.2 Total yardMe in sample. The lot shall be unacceptable i4 the total of Wie actual len

40、gths of rolls in the sample is less than the totalof the lengths marked on the roll tickets. selected for the examination of individual rolls. The rolls examined shall be those 4.2.3.3 Examination for compliance with Wool Products Labelinct Act. During the yard-by-yard examination, each roll in the

41、sample shall be examined for conformance to the Wool Products Labeling Act. Each roll not labeled in accordance with this act shall tu0 or more of these defects occur. a defect. The lot shRll be unacceptable if 4.3 Examination of meparation for delivery reauirements. Examination shall be de in accor

42、dance with the provisions of PPP-P-1132 to determine that packaging, packing and marking requiremcnts of Section 5 of this specification nre complied with. * 4.4 Tests. The methods of testing specified in FED-STD-191, wherever spplicable, and as listed in Table II shall be followed. chernicd value6

43、specified in Section 3 apply to the tesuits of the determina- tions made on a sample unit for test purposes as specified in the applicable test methods. cloth. meet any requirement specified. The lot size shall be expressed in units of 1 yard. expressing the final result, The sample size (number of

44、sample wits) shall be in accordance with the following: The physical and The sample unit shall be 3-1/2 yards full width of the finished The lot shd be unacceptable if one or more sample units fail to All test reports shall contain the individual values utilized in Lot Size (Yards) Sample Size 800 o

45、r less 801 up to and including 22,000 22,001 and over 2 3 5 5. PREPARATION FOR DELIVERY 5.1 Packaging. Packaging shall be level A or C as spcified (see 6.2). *- 5.1.1 Levels A and C. The cloth, put up as specified, shall be packaged in accordance with the applicable requirements of PPP-P-1132. 5.2 P

46、ackinq. . Packing shall be level A, B, or C as specified (see 6.2). * 5.2.1 Levels A, B and C. The cloth shall be packed in accordance with the applicable requirements of PPP-P-1132. * 5.3 thrking. In addition. to any special marking required in the contract or order, shipments shall &-marked in acc

47、ordance with -the requirements of PPP-P-1132. 6. DOTES * 6.1 Intended use. !?he cloth is intended for use as linings for cold weather clothing. 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-TABU II. TES“ MGPHODS -. Characteristic - Yarn ply-singl

48、e Colorfastness to: Perspi rat ion Wet drycleaning Crocking Weight Yarns per inch: Wales Courses Thickness Breaking strength Shrinkage Acidity (pH) Fiber content (finished . cloth ) Requirement Paragraph 3.3.2 3.4.2 3.4.2 3.4.2 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.6.1 3.3.1 Test Method visual I/ 5680 5622 5651

49、 5041 5070 5070 5030 5120 5580 2811 2101 r/ One determination per sample unit and the result reported as “pass“ or “fail.“ 6.2 Ordering data. Procurement documents should specify the following: a. Title, number and date of this specification. b. When flrst article sample is not required (see 3.2). c. Length, if other than specified (see 3.7). d. Levels of packaging and packing required (see 5.1 and 5.2). * 6.3 Stand