SANS 50892-2007 Mountaineering equipment - Dynamic mountaineering ropes - Safety requirements and test methods《登山设备 动力登山绳索 安全要求及测试方法》.pdf

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1、 Collection of SANS standards in electronic format (PDF) 1. Copyright This standard is available to staff members of companies that have subscribed to the complete collection of SANS standards in accordance with a formal copyright agreement. This document may reside on a CENTRAL FILE SERVER or INTRA

2、NET SYSTEM only. Unless specific permission has been granted, this document MAY NOT be sent or given to staff members from other companies or organizations. Doing so would constitute a VIOLATION of SABS copyright rules. 2. Indemnity The South African Bureau of Standards accepts no liability for any

3、damage whatsoever than may result from the use of this material or the information contain therein, irrespective of the cause and quantum thereof. ISBN 978-0-626-20145-6 SANS 50892:2007Edition 2 EN 892: 2004Edition 2 SOUTH AFRICAN NATIONAL STANDARD Mountaineering equipment Dynamic mountaineering rop

4、es Safety requirements and test methods This national standard is the identical implementation of EN 892:2004 and is adopted with the permission of CEN, rue de Stassart 36, B-1050 Brussels. Published by Standards South Africa 1 dr lategan road groenkloof private bag x191 pretoria 0001 tel: 012 428 7

5、911 fax: 012 344 1568 international code + 27 12 www.stansa.co.za Standards South Africa SANS 50892:2007 Edition 2 EN 892:2004 Edition 2 Table of changes Change No. Date Scope National foreword This South African standard was approved by National Committee StanSA SC 5120.11A, Personal protective equ

6、ipment Industrial safety belts, fall arrest systems and industrial rope access, in accordance with procedures of Standards South Africa, in compliance with annex 3 of the WTO/TBT agreement. This SANS document was published in August 2007. This SANS document supersedes SABS EN 892:1996 (first edition

7、). EUROPEAN STANDARD NORME EUROPENNE EUROPISCHE NORM EN 892 November 2004 ICS 97.220.40 Supersedes EN 892:1996 English version Mountaineering equipment - Dynamic mountaineering ropes - Safety requirements and test methods quipement dalpinisme et descalade - Cordes dynamiques - Exigences de scurit et

8、 mthodes dessai Bergsteigerausrstung - Dynamische Bergseile - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prfverfahren This European Standard was approved by CEN on 23 September 2004. CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this

9、 European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references concerning such national standards may be obtained on application to the Central Secretariat or to any CEN member. This European Standard exists in three official versions (En

10、glish, French, German). A version in any other language made by translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the Central Secretariat has the same status as the official versions. CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Cyprus,

11、Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and United Kingdom. EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION COMIT EUROPEN D

12、E NORMALISATION EUROPISCHES KOMITEE FR NORMUNG Management Centre: rue de Stassart, 36 B-1050 Brussels 2004 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved worldwide for CEN national Members. Ref. No. EN 892:2004: EEN 892:2004 (E) 2 Contents Foreword3 Introduction .4 1 Scope 5 2

13、Normative references 5 3 Terms and definitions .5 4 Safety requirements 7 4.1 Construction.7 4.2 Sheath slippage .7 4.3 Static elongation7 4.4 Dynamic elongation.8 4.5 Peak force during fall arrest, number of drops 8 5 Test methods8 5.1 Test samples 8 5.2 Conditioning and test conditions.8 5.3 Const

14、ruction, diameter, and mass per unit length.9 5.4 Sheath slippage .9 5.5 Determination of static elongation.13 5.6 Drop test for determination of peak force, dynamic elongation, and number of drops.13 6 Information to be supplied by the manufacturer18 7 Marking .19 Annex A (informative) List of stan

15、dards for mountaineering equipment .25 Annex ZA (informative) Relationship between this European Standard and the Essential Requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC.26 EN 892:2004 (E) 3 Foreword This document (EN 892:2004) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136 “Sports, playground and ot

16、her recreational equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by DIN. This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an identical text or by endorsement, at the latest by May 2005, and conflicting national standards shall be withdrawn at the latest

17、by May 2005. This document supersedes EN 892:1996. This European Standard has been prepared under a mandate given to CEN by the European Commission and the European Free Trade Association to support Essential Requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC. For relationship with EU directives, see informati

18、ve annex ZA, which is an integral part of this document. According to the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organizations of the following coun-tries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Esto-nia, Finland, France, Ge

19、rmany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and United Kingdom. EN 892:2004 (E) 4 Introduction The text is based on UIAA-Standard B (Union Internationale des Associations

20、dAlpinisme), which has been pre-pared with international participation. This document is one of a package of standards for mountaineering equipment, see annex A. EN 892:2004 (E) 5 1 Scope This document specifies safety requirements and test methods for dynamic ropes (single, half and twin ropes) in

21、kernmantel construction for use in mountaineering including climbing. 2 Normative references The following referenced documents are indispensable for the application of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced d

22、ocument (including any amendments) applies. ISO 6487, Road vehicles Measurement techniques in impact tests Instrumentation. 3 Terms and definitions For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply. 3.1 dynamic mountaineering rope rope, which is capable, when used as a com

23、ponent in the safety chain, of arresting the free fall of a person en-gaged in mountaineering or climbing with a limited peak force 3.2 single rope dynamic mountaineering rope, capable of being used singly, as a link in the safety chain, to arrest a persons fall 3.3 half rope dynamic mountaineering

24、rope, which is capable, when used in pairs, as a link in the safety chain to arrest the leaders fall (see Figure 1) 3.4 twin rope dynamic mountaineering rope, which is capable, when used in pairs and parallel, as a link in the safety chain to arrest a persons fall (see Figure 2) EN 892:2004 (E) 6 Fi

25、gure 1 Examples of use of half ropes Figure 2 Use of twin rope EN 892:2004 (E) 7 3.5 kernmantel rope rope composed of a core and a sheath 4 Safety requirements 4.1 Construction Dynamic ropes in accordance with this document shall be made in a kernmantel construction. If the properties of the rope ch

26、ange along its length, for example: diameter, strength, markings, samples from each section shall be submitted for testing. The information to be supplied shall all correspond to the lowest performance section of the rope. 4.2 Sheath slippage When tested in accordance with 5.4, the sheath slippage i

27、n a longitudinal direction relative to the core (in positive or negative direction) shall not exceed 20 mm (see Figure 3). Key 1 Sheath 2 Core aPositive sheath slippage 20 mm bNegative sheath slippage 20 mm Figure 3 Sheath slippage 4.3 Static elongation When tested in accordance with 5.5, the static

28、 elongation shall not exceed: 10 % in single ropes (single strand of rope); 12 % in half ropes (single strand of rope); 10 % in twin ropes (double strand of rope). EN 892:2004 (E) 8 4.4 Dynamic elongation When tested in accordance with 5.6, the dynamic elongation shall not exceed 40 % during the fir

29、st drop for each test sample. 4.5 Peak force during fall arrest, number of drops 4.5.1 Peak force in the rope When tested in accordance with 5.6, the peak force in the rope, during the first drop, for each test sample, shall not exceed: 12 kN in single ropes (single strand of rope); 8 kN in half rop

30、es (single strand of rope); 12 kN in twin ropes (double strand of rope). 4.5.2 Number of drops When tested in accordance with 5.6, each rope sample shall withstand at least 5, for twin ropes at least 12, con-secutive drop tests without breaking. 5 Test methods 5.1 Test samples A test sample with a l

31、ength of: 40 m for single and half ropes; 80 m or 2 40 m for twin ropes shall be available for the tests. Carry out the tests in accordance with 5.3 on an unused test sample. Carry out the tests in accordance with 5.4 on two unused test samples with a length of (2 250 10) mm. Carry out the test in a

32、ccordance with 5.5 on two unused test samples with a length of at least 1 500 mm. Carry out the tests in accordance with 5.6 on three unused test samples with a minimum length of 5 m for single and half ropes, and 10 m for twin ropes, cut out of the available test sample. 5.2 Conditioning and test c

33、onditions Dry the test samples for at least 24 h in an atmosphere of (50 5) C and less than 10 % relative humidity. Subsequently, cool the samples in an atmosphere of (20 2) C and not more than 65 % relative humidity for 2 h. Then condition these test samples in an atmosphere of (20 2) C and (65 2)

34、% relative humidity for at least 72 h. Then test these samples at a temperature of (23 5) C. EN 892:2004 (E) 9 5.3 Construction, diameter, and mass per unit length 5.3.1 Procedure Clamp the test sample at one end. Load the test sample without shock with a mass1)of: (10 0,1) kg for single ropes; (6 0

35、,1) kg for half ropes; (5 0,1) kg for twin ropes at a distance of at least 1 200 mm from the clamp. After applying the load for 60 s mark within the next 10 s a reference length of (1 000 1) mm on the test sample. The distance of the marking from the clamp or attachment for the test sample shall be

36、at least 50 mm. Within a further 3 min measure the diameter in two directions around the diameter starting at points 90 apart at each of three levels approximately 100 mm apart. The length of the contact areas of the measuring instrument shall be (50 1) mm. The rope cross-sectional area shall not be

37、 subject to any compression during the measurement. Then cut out the marked portion of the test sample and determine the mass to the nearest 0,1 g. Check that the construction of the rope is a kernmantel construction. 5.3.2 Expression of results Express the diameter as the arithmetic mean of the six

38、 measurements to the nearest 0,1 mm. Express the mass per unit length in ktex or g/m to the nearest 1 g. 5.4 Sheath slippage 5.4.1 Principle The rope is drawn through the apparatus illustrated in Figure 4, where the movement is restricted by radial forces. The resulting frictional force on the sheat

39、h causes slippage of the sheath relative to the core. The extent of this slippage is measured. 1) The mass can be introduced by a corresponding force. EN 892:2004 (E) 10 Dimensions in millimetres Key a3 moving plates bSpacers c4 fixed plates Figure 4 Apparatus for testing the sheath slippage 5.4.2 P

40、reparation of the test samples Fuse one end of the sheath and core of each test sample together. Before cutting the other end of each test sam-ple to size, apply a short length of sticky tape around the rope, where it is to be cut, at right angles to the axis of the rope. The sticky tape shall be at

41、 least 12 mm wide, and the angle of wrap around the rope, , shall be 150 180. After affixing the sticky tape, cut the sample to a length of (2 250 10) mm with a sharp knife, within the width of the tape, at right angles to the axis of the rope (see Figure 5) such that the sticky tape remaining on th

42、e test sample has a width of (8 3) mm. The characteristics of the sticky tape and the method of application should be such as to reduce the extent to which the cut end of the sheath unravels during the test, whilst not inter-fering with the slippage taking place between the core and the sheath of th

43、e rope sample. EN 892:2004 (E) 11 Dimensions in millimetres Key 1 Sticky tape at least 12 mm wide before cutting Figure 5 Sheath slippage test Cutting the test sample to length 5.4.3 Apparatus The apparatus shall consist of a frame made out of four steel plates each 10 mm thick, kept equal distances

44、 apart by three spacers. These spacers shall have rectangular slots in which three inserted steel plates are able to slide in a radial direction. The spacers shall be arranged in such a way as to allow each of the three inserted plates to slide at an angle of 120 (see Figure 4). Each of the seven pl

45、ates shall have an opening with a diameter of 12 mm; their internal surfaces shall be semitoroidal and have a radius of 5 mm. The polished surfaces of the semi-torus shall show an arithmetical mean deviation of the profile of Ra= 0,4 m and a surface roughness of Rmax 4 m (see Figure 6). Dimensions i

46、n millimetres Figure 6 Section through one of the plates The moving plates shall have a locked position in which the openings in the fixed plates and the openings in the moving plates all lie in line along a central axis. When not in their locked position each of the moving plates shall apply a radi

47、al force of (50 0,5) N to the test sample in the direction in which the plate moves. The test apparatus shall be rigidly mounted with its axis horizontal. Means shall be provided to support, on a smooth surface, the test sample in a horizontal position in line with the axis of the test apparatus, in

48、 both directions of travel. EN 892:2004 (E) 12 5.4.4 Procedure 5.4.4.1 At the start of the test the moving plates shall be in their locked position. 5.4.4.2 Introduce the fused end of the test sample into the apparatus and pull to a length of (200 10) mm through the test apparatus (see Figure 7). En

49、sure that the remainder of the test sample is not subjected to any load and lies in a horizontal position in a straight line. Dimensions in millimetres Key aSliding plates Figure 7 Layout of the test sample before and after the sheath slippage test 5.4.4.3 Release the moving plates from their locked position and apply a force of (50 0,5) N to the test sample via each of the three moving plates and pull the test sample through the apparatus at a rate of (0,5