1、I .4 -_I_ . NIL-S-29633A 8i.I 9999906 048890i.I O - INCH-POUNDS MIL-S-29633A(CG) 10 September 1991 SUPERSEDING MIL-S-29633(CG) 29 June 1990 MILITARY SPECIFICATION SHIRT, WOMANS, DRESS, SHORT AND LONG SLEEVE (COACT RIAFUI) This specification is approved for use by the United States Coast Guard, Depat
2、trnent of Transportation, and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE . This specification covers the requirements for a womans short sleeve lo1 E= ue shirt, long sleeve blue shirt, and a long sleeve white shirt made of a polyester and cotton mater
3、ial. and sizes (see 6.2). 1.2 Classification. The shirt shall be of the following types, classes, 1.2.1 Type I - Long sleeve, w/epaulets Type II - Short sleeve, w/epaulets a 1.2.2 Class 1 - Blue Class 2 -White 1.2.3 Sizes. The womanfs shirt, short and long sleeve, shall be furnished in the fomng siz
4、es (see 6.2). 1.2.3.1 Neck sizes. 13, 13-1/2, 14, 14-1/2, 15, 15-1/2, 16, 16-1/2, and 17 1.2.3.2 Long sleeve sizes. 31 and 33 Beneficial comments (reconnnendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Officer in Charge,
5、Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, P.O. Box 59, Natick, M distribution is unlimited. I Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-29633A 84 m 9999906 0488905 2 m MIL-S-296 33A( CG) 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 Government documents
6、. 2.1.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Spe
7、cifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL A-A-501 3 5 - Cloth, interlining, Polyester A-A-50199 V-B-871 NN-P-71 DDD-L-20 - Label; for Clothing, Equipage and Tentage (General PPP-B-676 - Boxes, Setup - Thread, Polyester Core
8、, Cotton- or Polyester-covered - Button, Sewing Hole and Button, Staple (Plastic) - Pallet, Material Handling, Wood, Stringer Construction 2 Way and 4 Way (Partial) Use ) MILITARY MIL-P-15011 MIL-B-17757 MIL-C-21881 MIL-C-43992 MIL-P-55010 STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-SID-7 51 - Pallet, Material.Handling,
9、Wood, Post Construction, - Boxes, Shipping, Fiberboard (Modular Sizes) - Cloth, Poplin, Polyester and Cotton - Cloth, Broadcloth, Polyester/Cotton, Durable Press - Plastic Sheet, Polyethylene Terephthalate 4 Way Entry - Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings MILITARY MIL-STD-129 MIL-STD-105 - Sampling Proc
10、edures and Tables For Inspection by Attributes MIL-SID-147 - Palletized Unit Loads MIL-STD-2073-1 - DOD Materials Procedures For Development and Applications of Packaging Requirements MIL-SID-2073-2 - Packaging Requirement Codes - Marking for Shipment and Storage (Unless otherwise indicated, copies
11、of federal and military specifications, standards and handbooks are available from Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 4D, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.) 2 t Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-NIL-S-27633A 84 9
12、777706 0488706 4- rn MIL-S-29633A(CG) r. 2.1.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solic
13、itation. e 4 t U.S. Postal Manual (Copies of the manual may be obtained from the Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402-0001.) 2.2 Non-Government publications. The following document(s) form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless ot
14、herwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DoD adopted shall be those listed in the issue of the DoDISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DoDISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). NATIONAL
15、“YXIR FREIGHT TRAFFIC ASSOCIATION, INC. , AGENT National Motor Freight Classification (Applications for copies should be addressed to the American Trucking Association, ATM: Traffic Department, 1616 P Street, N.W., Washington, DC 20036-1404.) UNIFORM CLASSIFICATION COMMITICEE, AGEN“ Uniform Freight
16、Classification (Applications for copies should be addressed to the Uniform Classification Committee, Room 1106, 222 South Riverside Plaza, Chicago, Illinois 60606-5808.) (Non-Goverrinrent standards and other publications are normally available ,from the organizations that prepare or distribute the d
17、ocuments. These documents also may be available in or through libraries or other informational services.) In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document shall take precedence. Nothing in this document hawever, supersedes applic
18、able laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 2.3 Order of precedence. L 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-29633A 84 9999906 0488907 b m MIL-S-29633A(CG) 3.1 Guide s Samples, when furnished, are solely
19、 for guidance and information 4. to t e contractor (see 6.3). Variations from this specification may appear in the sample in which case this specification shall govern. unit(s) tor first article inspection and approval (see 4.3 and 6.2). 3.2 First article. When specified, the contractor shall furnis
20、h sample 3.3 Material. 3.3.1 Basic material. 3.3.1.1 Class 1. The basic material for the types I and II class 1 shirts shall be a polyester/cotton broadcloth, shade blue 1550 conforming to class 4 Of MIL-C-43992. 3.3.1.2 Class 2. The basic material for the type I, class 2 shirt shall be a polyester/
21、cotton poplin, 4.1 to 4.6 oz., shade White 3013 conforming to type II, class 2 of MIL-C-21881. 3.3.2 Interlinin . The material for interlining the collar, collrstand, pocket f I-q aps, epau ets and cuffs (type I shirts) shall be polyester fiber cloth conforming to A-A-50135. The color shall be white
22、. 3.3.3 Thread. The thread for seaming, stitching, buttonholes, and button sewing sh5TJ36 a cotton-covered polyester core thread, ticket Nos. 50 or 70, conforming to type I of A-A-50199. The thread shall be dyed to match White AH, Cable No. 66050. 3.3.3.1 Colorfastness of thread. The finished thread
23、 shall show a minimum of llgoodl colorfastness to laundering, perspiration and light as specified and - tested in A-A-50199. - 3.3.4 Buttons. The buttons used for the fronts and cuffs shall be type II, 19 line, m, style 25 of V-B-871. The buttons shall match Shade White BA, Cable NO. 62031. The coll
24、ar stay shall be of polyethylene terephthalate - + 0.001 inch, the color shall be natural (clear or opaque) and the transparency and optical properties shall not apply. The stay shall measure 3/8 (+ 1/32) inch wide and 3 to 3-1/2 inches in length. The stay shall have two slots 1-1/8 (+ 1/32) inch lo
25、ng, centered along the length of the stay. Each slot shall be-1/8 (+ 1/32) inch wide and spaced an equal distance across the width of the stay whin tested as specified in 4.4.1. Both ends shall be round, pointed, cut on an angle or any combination thereof. When other than round, points shall be roun
26、ded. 3.3.5 Collar Sta . plastic s r;-?y eet con orming to MIL-P-55010, except the thickness shall be 0.014 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-29b33A 84 777770b 0488708 8 3.3.6 Labels. 3.3.6.1 Combination label. Each shirt shall h
27、ave a combination personal- /identification/instmction label conforming to type VI, classes 10 and 15 of DDD-L-2. The marking shall show colorfastness to laundering. The inscription and format shall be as follows: NAME: SERVICE NO: NAME OF I=: SHIRT, WOMANS, DRESS, LONG SLEEVE (CG) (EXAMPLE) TYPE I,
28、 CLASS 1 (EWWPLE) FIBER CONTENT: 65% POLYESTER / 35% COTTON CoNTRACp No: DLA 100-00-O-0000 (EXAMPLE) NAME OF CoNTRAcrOR: NAME OF MA“RER: (IF OTHER THAN CONTRACTOR) LALINDERING INSTRUCTIONS MACHINE WASH - WARM WATER, - NO BLEACH TUMBLE DRY - MEDIUM HEAT - REMOVE PROMPTLY 3.3.6.2 Size label. Each shir
29、t shall have a size label conf-rming IV or VI, class 2 of DDD-L-20. The inscription shall be as follows: 15N - 31s (Example) to tup- STOCK NUMBER - 8410-00-000-0000 (Example) 8 Note: The neck and sleeve length may be abbreviated as lllN1l and “S1 as shown above. Note: The type II shirt will not have
30、 the sleeve lengths listed on thelabel, 3.4 Design. The type I shirt shall have long sleeves, underarm front dart, shoulder epaulets, with 6 button front closure and one button neck closure. The fronts shall have breast patch pockets with button down flaps. The collar shall have a collar leaf, colla
31、rstand and collar stays. The collar leaf, collarstand, cuffs, pocket flaps and shoulder epaulets are interlined. The cuff opening shall have 2 buttons on each cuff for adjustment. (See figures 1 and 2). The typ II shirt is the same as the type I shirt except it shall have short sleeves. 3.4.1 FiFres
32、. Figures are furnished for information purposes only. When inconsistencies exist between the written specification and the figures, the written specification shall govern. 5 I Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-29b33A 84 7799906 0
33、488709 T 3.5 Patterns. Standard patterns to be used to cut working patterns will be furnishmhe Government (see 6.3). The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns. Neither the Government patterns nor the working patterns shall be altered in any way, except that additional notche
34、s for use during coristruction are allowed on the working patterns. Also, minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability or appearance requirements cited in the specification. The standard patterns
35、 provide an allowance of 1/4 inch for all seams except for the sleeve binding seam, pocket attachment, and attachment of cuff (type I only). Unless otherwise indicated in Table II, seams shall be in accordance with these seam allowances. a 3.5.1 List of pattern parts. The component parts od the shir
36、t shall be cut from the materials as specified and in accordance with the number of parts required for the manufacturing process as follows: Table I - List of pattern parts Material Nomenclature of Pattern Parts CutParts -sic material Back 1 Front Sleeves (type i) Sleeves (type II) Collar leaf Colla
37、rstand Pocket Pocket flap Shoulder epaulets Cuff (type I) 2 2 2 2 2 2 4 4 4 i/ Interlining cloth Collar leaf interlining 1 ?/ Collarstand interlining 1 Cuff interlining (type I) 2 Pocket flap interlining 2 Shoulder epaulets interlining 2 Templates Template finished pocket - Template finished. pocket
38、 flap - 1/ When optional cuff setting operation is used (see operation 14f), 1/8 inch may be added to the patterns. However, finished cuff measurements shall be maintained; Seam allowance at collar point may be trimmed to facilitate collar point shaping operation. - 2/ 6 Provided by IHSNot for Resal
39、eNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-29b33A 84 W 9999906 0488910 b m MIL-S-296 3 3A( CG ) 3.6 Construction. 3.6.1 Stitches, seams and stitchings. Stitch, seam and stitching types, as specifies in Table II shall conform to the requirements of Fn-STD-751. Wheneve
40、r two or more methds for seams or stitchings are given for the same operation, any one of them may be used. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, runoffs, twists, pleats, puckers or open seams result. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall b
41、e maintained so that there is no tight or loose stitching. Where stitch type 401 is used, the looper (underthread) shall be on the inside of the shirt. Ends of all seams produced by stitch type 401 shall be caught in other seams or stitching. Unless otherwise specified, edgestitching shall be 1/16 i
42、nch and topstitching shall be 1/4 inch from folded edge. The bight of the overedge stitching shall be 3/16 inch. Ends of all seams produced by stitch type 401 safety stitch machine shall be set to trim only the ravelled ends of the fabric. Buttonholes shall be clean cut and the stitching shall be se
43、curely operations may be performed in two separate operations. II shall be caught in other seams or stitchings. The guides and knives on the a caught in the fabric. Where stitch type 515, 516 or 519. is called for, the 3.6.2 Thread breaks and ends of seams. Ends of all seams and stitching, when not
44、cauqht in other seams or stitchings, shall be backtacked not less than 3/8 inch. The ends of a continuous line of stitching (except label) shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch. The ends of label stitching shall be overlapped not less than 3 stitches. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be s
45、ecured by stitching back of break not less than 1/2 inch. Skipped stitches or thread breaks (401 stitch type) may be repaired by using 301 stitch type. When ends of overedge stitching are not caught in other seams or stitching; the ends shall be tacked. inch shal be as specifie in Table II. - 3.6.3
46、Ttitches per. :n$. The minimum and maximum number of stitches per 3.6.4 Buttonholes. The buttonholes shall be straight style with both ends securelybarred. The finished cut length shall be 1/2 to 9/16 inch. 3.7 Manufacturing operations requirements. The shirt shall be manufactured in accordance with
47、 operation requirements specified in Table II. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations provided the finished shirt is identical to that produced by following the sequence as listed in Table II. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automatic e
48、quipment. These modifications shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability or appearance requirements cited in the specification. 3.7.1 Shade and size marking. The component parts of the shirt shall be marked or ticketed to insure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. my method may be
49、used except: (1) Corrosive metal fastening devices (2) CeMn shade tickets (3) Adhesive type tickets which discolor or adhere to the material upon removal of tickets. 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-29633A 84 = 9999906 0488911 8 =I MILrS-2963%( CG) NOTE: The use of ink pad numbering machine, rubber stamp, or pencil is allowed, provided the numbering does
