1、NIL-DTL-82372D m 9Ob 2055370 696 m MIL-DTL-82 172D (MC) 8 October 1997 SUPERSEDING MIL-C-82172C (MC) 21 June 1995 DETAIL SPECIFICATION COAT, MANS - SUMMER AND WINTER, SCARLET, DRUM AND BUGLE CORPS, DRUM MAJOR AND DIRECTOR This specification is approved for use by U.S. Marine Corps, Department of the
2、 Navy, and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1. Scope. This specification covers wool, drum and bugle corps coats. requirements for scarlet, Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deleticris) and any pertinent data which may be of
3、 use in improving this document should be addressed to the Commander (PSE-D), Marine Corps Systems Command, Quantico, VA 22134-5010 by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. I I AMSC N/A I FSC 8405 DISTRIBUTION STATE
4、MENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- _ - MIL-DTL-82172D m 9Ob 2055171 522 W MIL- DTL- 8 2 17 2 D ( MC ) 1.2. Classification. The coats shall be of one type in the following c
5、lasses and sizes as specified (see 6.2): Class 1 - Drum Major Class 2 - Director Schedule of sizes (Short, Reqular, Lonq, Extra Lonq) 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 44 46 1.3. Individual orders. When the coat is custom tailored to an individual order, this specification shall govern, except that the det
6、ailed requirements of Section 3, Table I, may be modified to the extent necessary for good custom tailoring practice. 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1. General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this Specification. This section does not include documents cited in o
7、ther sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specificatio
8、n, whether or not they are 1is.ted. 2.2. Government documents. 2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those liste
9、d in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DoDISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2) . SPECIFICATIONS . FEDERAL A-A-50186 - Cloth, Cotton, Buckram A-A-50196 - Thread, Silk A-A-50198 - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole 2 Provided by IHS
10、Not for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-DTL-82172D 9999906 2055172 469 A-A-50199 - A-A-52071 - A-A-52094 - A-A-52097 - A-A-52106 - DDD-L-20 V-B-871 - MIL-DTL-82172D (MC) Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester Covered Tape, Textile, Cotton, General
11、 Purpose (Unbleached, Bleached or Dyed) Thread, Cotton Cloth, Wigan, Cotton Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave Polyester and Polyester Blend Label: For Clothing, Equipage and Tentage (General Use) Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple (Plastic) DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE MIL-C-3 68 -Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cl
12、oth, Twill, Rayon MIL-DTL-3461 -Button, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Cap MIL-P-15064 -Pads, Shoulder and Sleeve-Head MIL-L-17507 -Lace, Ornamental MIL-E-17568 -Embroidery Materials, Metallic and Synthetic MIL-C-21115 -Cloth, Tropical: Wool, Polyester/Wool MIL-E-29652 -Eyelets, Metallic and Eyelet Wa
13、shers, MIL-DTL-82114 -Coat Front - For Coats, Musicians MIL-DTL-82194 -Ornamentation - For Jacket, Mans Evening Metallic Dress STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-751 - Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of the above specifications, standards, handbooks are available from the
14、Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094. ) 2.3. Non-Government publications. The following document(s) form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DoD adopted
15、are those listed in the issue of the DoDISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DoDISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without lice
16、nse from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-82 172D (MC) ANSI/ASQC 21.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection By Attributes (Application for copies should be addressed to the American National Standards Institute, Inc., 11 West 42nd Street, New York, NY 10036.) ASTM E1282 - Standard Guide for Specifying the
17、Chemical Compositions and Selecting Sampling Practices and Quantitative Analysis Methods for Metals and Alloys (Application for copies should be addressed to American Society for Testing and Materials, 1916 Race Street, Philadelphia, PA 19103.) Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Color Card of Offi
18、cial Standardized Shades of Sewing Threads 1968 (Application for copies should be addressed to the Color Association of the United States, Inc., 409 W. 44thStreet, New York, NY 10016-0927. ) 2.4. Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cit
19、ed herein, the text of this document takes precedence. however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. Nothing in this document, 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1. Standard sample. Standard samples are furnished solely for guidance and information to the contract
20、or (see 6.3). Variation from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case the specification shall govern. 3.2. First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.3. 3.3. Materials. 3.3.1 Basic material. The basic materi
21、al shall be cloth, wool, tropical, scarlet, shade 2502 (see 6.31, 10.5 ounce, conforming to type I, class 1 of MIL-C-21115. 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-DTL-82172D m 7779906 20551174 2311 m MIL-DTL-82172D (MC) 3.3.2 Lininq.
22、The material for lining the coats and collar and for making the underarm shields, collar eyelet covers, coat hanger and straps to secure the lining to the bottom edge of the coat shall be cloth, rayon twill, scarlet, shade 2506 (see 6.3), conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-368. 3.3.3 Cloth, twill or pla
23、in weave polyester or polyester blend. The stays for the armhole and shoulder seams, reinforcement pieces for the collar eyelets, bindings for the lower edge of the collar, and neck edge of the coat front interlining shall be cut from cloth, polyester or polyester blend, conforming to A-A-52106, exc
24、ept the requirement for nonfibrous material and seam efficiency shall not apply. blend shall be khaki, shade 3707 for the armhole and shoulder seam stays, the collar eyelet reinforcement pieces and the binding for the neck edge of front interlining; and black for the binding for the lower edge of th
25、e collar interlining. The polyester or polyester 3.3.4 Collar interlininq. The material for the collar interlining shall be cloth, cotton, buckram, double texture, laminated, starch finish, natural color, conforming to type IV of A-A-50186. The weight of the laminated cloth shall be 21 to 23 ounces
26、per square yard. 3.3.4.1. Plastic. The plastic strip used in the collar interlining shall be clear plastic stock, 0.020 inch thick. It shall be cut using the cotton buckram pattern. 3.3.4.2. Plastic interlininq. The plastic interlining must withstand wet (dry) cleaning. It must not melt or become di
27、storted under wet (dry) cleaning or pressing. 3,.3.5 Reinforcement disc. The reinforcement discs for buttons secured to the side seam, with ring toggles, shall be punched from the cloth, cotton, buckram specified in 3.3.4. The reinforcement discs shall be 7/8 inch in diameter with 1/8 inch diameter
28、hole at the center. 3.3.6 Paddinq for collar. The material for padding the collar shall be suitable cotton felt, white, weighing 4.25 to 4.75 ounces per square yard. 3.3.7 Coat fronts. The coat fronts shall conform to the requirements of class 1 of MIL-DTL-82114. 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo re
29、production or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-82172D (MC) 3.3.8 Shoulder pads. The shoulder pads shall conform to the requirements of type I, class 2 of MIL-P-15064. 3.3.9 Sleeve-head pads. The sleeve-head pads shall conform to the requirements of type IV of MIL-I?-15064. 3
30、.3.10 Stay tape. The stay tape for the armhole shall be cotton, unbleached, 1/4 inch wide, conforming to type II, class 1 of A-A-52071, except the requirement for nonfibrous material shall not apply. 3.3.11 Pipinq. The piping material shall be cloth, polyester/wool blend, black, shade 2607, conformi
31、ng to type III of MIL-C-21115, cut 5/8 to 3/4 inch wide for piping the shoulder straps, collar, or ornamental sleeve patches (class 1 only); and 1 inch wide for piping the front and bottom edges of the coat. 3.3.12 Bindinq. The binding for the collar interlining shall be cut 1 inch wide from the fol
32、lowing materials: a. Upper edge of collar interlining - cloth, polyester/ wool blend as specified in 3.3.11. b. Lower edge of collar interlining - cloth, polyester and cotton as specified in 3.3.3. 3.3.13 Wiqan. The material for reinforcing the bottom edge of the sleeves shall be cloth, cotton, wiga
33、n, 2.5 ounces, conforming to A-A-52097. 3.3.14 Threads. 3.3.14.1. Silk thread. The silk thread shall conform to A-A-50196 as follows; except the requirements for extractable material shall not apply: Use Type Ticket No. Ply Bartacks and all outside seaming I A - Machine felling - Making buttonholes
34、in coat. I B and F 3 Hand felling; and hand sewing. III C 2 and stitching. - O 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-82172D W 99999Ob 205517b 004 MIL-DTL-82172D (MC) 3.3.14.2. Cotton thread. The cotton thread shall conform to A-A-
35、52094 as follows: Use Type Ticket No. Ply All inside seaming and stitching. III A 3 Serging and overedge stitching. I 70 2 Machine tacking armholes and II 24 4 sewing on buttons. The thread for basting shall be good commercial grade cotton. As an alternate to the cotton thread, a polyester core, cot
36、ton or polyester covered thread conforming to A-A-50199, ticket No. 50, 2 ply or ticket No. 70, 2 ply may be used. 3.3.14.3. Color and colorfastness. All thread shall be scarlet, shade W, cable No. 66040, except the cotton thread for basting and machine tacking armholes may be white. The cotton thre
37、ad for overedge stitching the piping at the bottom edge of the coat shall be black. The colored thread shall show the following colorfastness when tested as specified in the applicable thread specification (see DoD Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968). Thread
38、Color Wet (dry) cleaninq Liaht Cotton Scarlet Silk Scarlet Silk Black Good Fair Good - Fair Good 3.3.15 Gimp. The buttonhole gimp shall be cotton, ticket No. 8, soft or glazed finish, conforming to type I or II of A-A-50198. The color of the gimp shall be scarlet, shade W, cable No. 66040, and shall
39、 show good fastness to wet (dry) cleaning. 3.3.16 Ornamental braid. The ornamental braid for the coat fronts shall conform to the following requirements: Cover Material (covering) Color of wire Metal wire (undercoating) Plating material Winding thread Metal thread Light gold Silver and copper Gold T
40、wo ply white or yellow cotton thread 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-Core (stuffer) Material Number of threads Ply of thread ColorGold NIL-DTL-82372D 9999906 2055377 T40 MIL-DTL-82172D (MC) WeavePlain braided Number of carrier Ends/
41、carriers ShapeTubular Width Weight/linear yard Metal content (%) Gold Silver Copper Fastness to WaterGood Wet (dry) cleaning Cotton thread (soft) 7 minimum 2 minimum 12 minimum 6-8 (total 79) 3/8 + 1/16 inch minimum 154.5 grams 0.3 minimum O. 6 minimum Remainder (traces of nickel and zinc) Good 3.3.
42、16.1.Collar sold lace. conform to type II, class 1, style A of MIL-L-17507. The gold lace for the collar shall 3.3.17 Buttons. 3.3.17.1. Insiqnia button. gold plated, 27-line for shoulders, belt loops, and ornamental sleeve patches; and 40-line for fronts, conforming to type I, style 3, class A, sub
43、class 2 of MIL-DTL-3461. The insignia buttons shall be metal, 3.3.17.2. Rinq toqqle. Ring toggles for securing the 27-line buttons to shoulder straps, belt loops and ornamental sleeve patches shall conform to MIL-DTL-3461. 3.3.17.3.Sewinq button. The lower button on the coat front shall conform to t
44、ype II, class D, style 20, 40-line of V-B-871 and match the shade of the basic fabric. 3.3.18 Collar closure hook and eye. closing the collar shall be brass, black, japanned finish, or The hook and eye for 8 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IH
45、S-,-,-MIL-DTL-82172D m 9999906 2055178 987 m MIL-DTL-8 2 17 2D (MC) black chemical finish, followed by a clear lacquer coating and conform to the requirements of Figure 9. 3.3.18.1.Eyelets. The eyelets for the collar shall be brass, rolled flange type, with the barrel scored six to eight scores. The
46、 eyelets shall conform to MIL-E-29652, sheet 1A-BE108 and be enameled a black shade. 3.3.19 Labels. Each coat shall have a combination instruction/ identification label and a size label as follows. intended to be wet (dry) cleaned and the labels shall show fastness to wet (dry) cleaning. The coat is
47、 3.3.19.1. Combination instruction/identification label. The combination instruction/identification label shall conform to type V, classes 2 and 14 (combined) of DDD-L-20 except all printing and the space between the lines of printing shall be minimum 10 point (approximately 1/8 inch). The content a
48、nd format shall be as follows: Collar size: Nomenclature: Contract number: Wool Products Act information: DRY CLEAN ONLY 3.3.19.2. Size label. The size label shall conform to type V, class 2 of DDD-L-20. The label shall consist of the numerical size designation specified in 1.2 followed by the lette
49、rs S (short), R (regular), L (large), or XL (extra large), as shown by the following example: 40 R 3.3.20 Vinyl pipinq. The white vinyl cord for piping the upper edge of the collar shall be tubular, with 7/16 inch-wide welt and serrated edges (see 6.5). 3.3.21 Sleeve ornamentation. The sleeve ornamentation for the class 2 coat shall conform to type III, class 2 of MIL-DTL-82194 except that the embroi
