1、INCH-POUND MIL-DTL-82156D (MC) SUPERSEDING MIL-C-82 156C (MC) 13 June 1995 21 October 1997 DETAIL SPECIFICATION COAT, MANS - SCARLET, DRUM AND BUGLE CORPS, MUSICIANS This specification is approved for use by U.S. Marine Corps, Department of the Navy, and is available for use by all Departments and A
2、gencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1. Scope. This specification covers requirements for musicians scarlet wool drum and bugle corps coats. 1.2. Classification. The coats will be one type in the following sizes as specified (see 6.2): Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, del
3、etions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to the Commander (PSE-D), Marine Corps Systems Command, Quantico, VA 22134-5010 by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by lntt
4、nr AMSC N/A FSC 8405 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-IID W 9999906 2058380 O79 Schedule of sizes (Short, Reqular, Lonq, Extra Lonq) 34 35 36 37
5、38 39 40 41 42 44 46 1.3. Individual orders. When the coat is custom tailored to an individual order, this specification will govern except that the detail requirements of Section 3, Table I, may be modified to the extent necessary for good custom tailoring practices. 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1. Ge
6、neral, The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the complete
7、ness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed. 2.2. Government documents. 2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards
8、, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DoDISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2)
9、 . S PECI FI CATIONS FEDERAL A-A-501 96 A-A- 5 O 198 A-A-50 19 9 A-A-52 07 1 A-A-52 O 94 A-A-52 0 91 A-A-52 10 6 - Thread, Silk - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester - Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose - Thread, Cotton - Cloth, Wigan, Cotton - Cloth, T
10、will or Plain Weave, Polyester and Covered (Unbleached, Bleached, or Dyed) Polyester Blend 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-NIL-DTL-fl2LSbD W 9999906 2058383 TOS W I MIL-DTL-8215 6D (MC) DDD-L-20 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and
11、Tentage (General Use) DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE MIL-C-368 - Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cloth, Twill, Rayon MIL-DTL-3461 - Button, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Cap MIL-P-15064 - Pads, Shoulder and Sleeve-Head MIL-E-20652 - Eyelets, Metallic, Eyelet Washers (General Specification For) MIL-C-21115 - Cloth, Tr
12、opical: Wool, Polyester/Wool MIL-DTL-82114 - Coat Front - For Coats, Musicians STAN DARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-191 - Textile Test Methods FED-STD-751 - Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of the above specifications, standards, handbooks are available from the Standardizat
13、ion Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094. ) 2.3. Non-Government publications. The following document(s) form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DoD adopted are those li
14、sted in the issue of the DoDISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DoDISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). ASTM E1282 - Standard Guide for Specifying the Chemical Compositions and Selecting Sampling Pra
15、ctices and Quantitative Analysis Methods for Metals and Alloys (Application for copies should be addressed to American Society for Testing and Materials, 1916 Race Street, Philadelphia, PA 19103.) ANSI/ASQC 21.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes 3 Provided by IHSNot for R
16、esaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-8215bD W 97997Ob 2058382 941 W MIL-DTL-82 156D (MC) (Application for copies should be addressed to The American National Standards Institute, 11 West 42nd Street, New York, NY 10036. ) Department of Defense (DoD) Stand
17、ard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968 (Application for copies should be addressed to the Color Association of Che United States, Inc., 409 W. 44th Street, New York, NY 10016-0927.) 2.4. Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document
18、 and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1. Standard sample. Standard samples are furnished solely for guidance and info
19、rmation to the contractor (see 6.3). Variation from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case the specification shall govern. 3.2. First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.3. 3.3. Materials. 3.3.1 Basic mat
20、erial. The basic material shall be cloth, wool, tropical, scarlet, shade 2502 (see 6.3), 10.5 ounces, conforming to type I, class 1 of MIL-C-21115. 3.3.2 Lining. The material for lining the coat and collar and for making the underarm shields, collar eyelet covers, coat hanger, straps to secure the l
21、ining to the bottom edge of the coat, and the front eyelet cover shall be cloth, satin rayon twill, scarlet, shade 2506 (see 6.3), conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-368. 3.3.3 Cloth, twill or plain weave. The stays for the armhole and shoulder seams; the reinforcement pieces for the collar eyelets; and
22、 the binding for the neck edge of the coat front interlining and the lower edge of the collar interlining shall be cut from cloth, twill or plain weave, polyester or polyester 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-82LSbD = 99999Ob
23、 2058383 888 MIL- DTL- 8 2 15 6D (MC) blend conforming to A-A-52106, except the requirement for non-fibrous material and seam efficiency shall not apply. The color of the cloth shall be natural, for the armhole and shoulder seam stays, the collar eyelet reinforcement pieces, and the binding for the
24、neck edge of the coat front interlining; and black for the binding for the lower edge of the collar interlining. 3.3.4 Collar interlininq. The material for interlining the collar shall be cloth, cotton buckram, double texture, laminated starch finish, natural color, conforming to type IV of A-A-5018
25、6. The weight of the laminated cloth shall be 21 to 23 ounces per square yard. 3.3.5 Reinforcement discs. The reinforcement discs for the buttons secured to the back side seam, with ring toggles, shall be punched from cloth, cotton, buckram specified in 3.3.4. The reinforcement discs shall be 7/8 in
26、ch in diameter with a 1/8 inch diameter hole at the center. 3.3.6 Paddinq for collar. The material for padding the collar shall be suitable cotton felt, white, weight 4.25 to 4.75 ounces per square yard. 3.3.7 Coat fronts. The coat fronts shall conform to class 1 of MIL-DTL-82114. 3.3.8 Shoulder pad
27、s. The shoulder pad shall conform to the requirements of type I, class 2 of MIL-P-15064. 3.3.9 Sleeve-head pads. The sleeve-head pads shall conform to type IV of MIL-P-15064. 3.3.10 Stay tape. The stay tape for armholes shall be cotton, unbleached 1/4 inch wide, conforming to type II, class 1 of A-A
28、-52071, except the requirements for non-fibrous material shall not apply. 3.3.11 Pipinq. The material for piping shall be cloth, polyester/wool blend, black, shade 2607 (see 6.3), conforming to type III of MIL-C-21115, cut 5/8 to 3/4 inch wide for the piping for shoulder straps, lower edge of collar
29、, and ornamental sleeve patches; and 1 inch wide for piping the front and bottom edges of the coat. 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-8215bD Ob 2058384 714 W MIL-DTL-82 156D (MC) 3.3.11.1.Vinyl piping. The white vinyl piping f
30、or the upper edge of the collar shall be tubular, with 7/16 inch wide weltand serrated edges. 3.3.12 Bias bindinq. The binding for the underarm shields shall be bias cut out of the material specified in 3.3.2. The binding shall be 5/8 to 7/8 inch wide and have sized edges. 3.3.13 Wiqan. The material
31、 for reinforcing the bottom edge of the sleeves shall be cloth, cotton wigan, 2.5 ounces, conforming to type I of A-A-52097. 3.3.14 Thread. 3.3.14.1.Silk thread. The silk thread shall conform to A-A-50196 as follows, except the requirements for extractable matter shall not apply. Use Type Class Tick
32、et No. Ply - A O - Bartackc and all outside I Machine felling. - - Making buttonholes in coat. I - B and F 3 Hand felling and hand III 3 C 2 seaming and stitching. - sellinq. 3.3.14.2.Cotton thread. The cotton thread shall conform to A-A-52094 as follows: Use Type Ticket No. Ply All inside seaming a
33、nd stitching. III A 3 Serging and overedge stitching. I 70 2 Machine tackina armholes. I 40 3 The thread for basting shall be good commercial grade cotton. As an alternate to the cotton thread, a polyester core, cotton or polyester covered thread conforming to A-A-50199, ticket No. 70, 2-ply or tick
34、et No. 50, 2-ply may be used. 3.3.14.3.Color and colorfastness. All thread shall be dyed scarlet, shade W, cable No. 66040, except the cotton thread for basting and machine tacking armholes may be white, and the cotton thread for overedge stitch the piping at the bottom edge of the - 6 Provided by I
35、HSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-2L5bD 9999906 2058385 650 MIL-DTL-82 15 6D (MC) coats shall be black. The colored threads shall show the following colorfastness when tested as specified in the applicable thread specification: Thread Color
36、Wet (dry) Cleaninq Liqht Cotton Scarlet Good Silk Scarlet Fair Silk Black Good - Fair Good NOTE: See DoD Standard Color Card of Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968. 3.3.15 Gimp. The buttonhole gimp shall be cotton, ticket No. 8, soft or glazed finish, conforming to type I or II of A-A-50198.
37、 The color of the gimp shall be scarlet, shade W, cable No. 66040, and shall show good fastness to wet (dry) cleaning. 3.3.16 Buttons. 3.3.16.1.Insiqnia buttons. The insignia buttons shall be metal, gold plated, 27-line for shoulders, belt loops and ornamental sleeve patches and 40-line for fronts,
38、conforming to type I, style 3, class A, subclass 1 of MIL-DTL-3461. 3.3.16.2.Rinq toqqles. Ring toggles for securing the 27-line insignia buttons to the belt loops, ornamental sleeve patches and shoulder straps shall conform to MIL-DTL-3461. 3.3.17 Collar closure hook and eye. The hook and eye for c
39、losing the collar shall be brass, black, japanned finish or black chemical finish, followed by a clear lacquer coating and conform to the requirements of Figure 6. 3.3.17.1.Eyelets. The eyelets for the collar shall be brass, rolled flange type, with the barrel scored with six to eight scores. The ey
40、elets shall conform to MIL-E-20652, sheet 1A-BE108 and be enameled a black shade. 3.3.18 Labels. Each coat shall have a combination identification/instruction label and size label conforming to DDD-L-20. The coats are intended to be wet (dry) cleaned and the label shall show fastness to wet (dry) cl
41、eaning. 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-82L5bD m 9999906 2058386 597 m MIL-DTL-8 2 15 6D (MC) 3.3.18.1.Combination identification/instruction label. The combination identification/instruction label shall conform to type VI,
42、classes 1 and 3 (combined) of DDD-L-20, except all printing and the space between lines of printing shall be minimum 10 point (approximately 1/8 inch). The content and format shall be as follows: Nomenclature: Contract number: Name of contractor: Wool Products Act information: DRY CLEAN ONLY 3.3.18.
43、2.Size label. The size label shall be type VI, class 2 of DDD-L-20. The label shall consist of the numerical size designation specified in 1.2 followed by the letter S (short), R (regular), L (long), or XL (extra long) as shown by the following example : 40R 3.4. Desiqn. The coat shall be the U.S. M
44、arine Corps design shown on Figures 1 through 4. The coat shall be seven button, single breasted, form-fitting, fully lined having a one-piece front; waist and chest darts; a four-piece back without a center vent; belt loops to button; ornamented at sleeve ends; shoulder straps to button; and a stan
45、d up collar with hook and eye for front closure and a metal eyelet at each end for removable branch of service insignia. The top and bottom edges of the collar; the front and bottom edges of the coat; the top, bottom, and scalloped back edges of the ornamental sleeve patches; and the edges of the sh
46、oulder straps shall be piped with the material specified in 3.3.11. 3.5. Patterns. Standard patterns will be furnished to the contractor by the Government. The standard patterns shall not be altered in any way and shall be used only as a guide for cutting the contractors working patterns. The contra
47、ctors working patterns shall be identical to the standard pattern. The standard patterns shall provide 5/8 inch allowance for center back, 3/4 inch allowance for side seams, and 3/8 inch allowance for all other seams except as otherwise specified in Table I. Standard patterns show size and are marke
48、d and notched for proper cutting, placement and assembly-of component parts. a Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-8215bD m 999990b 2058387 423 m Collar interlining MIL-DTL-82 15 6D (MC) 1 3.5.1 List of-pattern parts. Coats shall
49、be cut from the materials specified herein in accordance with the pattern parts indicated below: Sleeve turnup and sleeve ornamentation marker 1 ITEM - I 24 21 PATTERN NOMENCLATURE I NO. OF CUT PARTS I qaterial basic: Cloth, wool, tropical Front Front facing, right Front facing, left Side back :enter back Top sleeve Under sleeve Collar, outer ply Shoulder straps, top ply Shoulder straps, under ply Ornamental sle
