1、 INCH POUND MIL-DTL- 85040D October 14, 2004 SUPERSEDING MIL-D-85040C 23 January 2004 DETAIL SPECIFICATION DRAWERS AND UNDERSHIRTS, FLYERS, ANTI-EXPOSURE, ARAMID, HIGH TEMPERATURE RESISTANT, CWU-43/P AND CWU-44/P This specification is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Departmen
2、t of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for two types and five sizes of a high temperature resistant, aramid, anti-exposure, flyers drawers and undershirts designated CWU-43/P for the drawers and CWU-44/P for the undershirts. 1.2 Classification. The CWU-43/P draw
3、ers and the CWU-44/P undershirts, as applicable, will be furnished in the following types; Type I - Drawers, Type II Undershirts; and sizes, as specified (see 6.2 (b): SIZE X-SMALL SMALL MEDIUM LARGE X-LARGE Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to: Defense Supply
4、Center Philadelphia, Clothing and Textiles Directorate, Attn: DSCP-COCT (Bldg 6), 700 Robbins Ave., Philadelphia, PA 19111-5092 or e-mailed to henry.jansendla.mil. Since contract information can change, you may want to verify the currency of this address information using the ASSIST Online database
5、at www.dodssp.daps.mil. AMSC N/A FSC 8415 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-85040D 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section d
6、oes not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements documents cited in s
7、ections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed. 2.2 Government documents.2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues o
8、f these documents are those listed in the solicitation or contract. FEDERAL JJ-W-155 Webbing, Textile, (Cotton, Elastic) COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTION A-A-55217 Thread, Aramid, Spun Staple DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS MIL-DTL-32075 Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Use) MIL-
9、C-85038 Cloth, Knitted, Aramid, High Temperature Resistant DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE STANDARDS MIL-STD-1916 DOD Preferred Method for Acceptance of Product (Copies of these documents are available online at http:/assist.daps.dla.mil/quicksearch/ or www.dodssp.daps.mil or from the Standardization Document
10、s Order Desk, Bldg. 4D, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.) 2.3 Non-Government publications. The following document(s) form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.
11、 ASTM International ASTM D 6193 Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams (Copies of these documents are available from www.astm.org or American Society For Testing and Materials, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428.) 2Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitte
12、d without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-85040D (Non-Government standards and other publications are normally available from the organizations that prepare or distribute the documents. These documents also may be available in or through libraries or other informational services.) 2.4 Order of preceden
13、ce. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1 First article.
14、 When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection, in accordance with 4.2 3.2 Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible provided that the ma
15、terial meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs. 3.2.1 Materials and components. The materials and components shall conform to the applicable specifications, purchase description, and standards as listed or required herein
16、. 3.2.1.1 Basic Cloth. 3.2.1.1.1 Body. The body of the drawers and the undershirts shall be fabricated from the aramid, high temperature resistant cloth conforming to MIL-C-85038, Type I. The color shall be natural (see 6.3.1). 3.2.1.1.2 Cuffs. The cuffs, for the drawers and the undershirts, shall b
17、e fabricated from the aramid, high temperature resistant cloth conforming to MIL-C-85038, Type II. The color shall be natural. 3.2.1.1.3 Collarette. The collarette (mock turtleneck), for the undershirts, shall be fabricated from the aramid, high temperature resistant cloth conforming to MIL-C-85038,
18、 Type II. The color shall be natural. 3.2.1.1.4 Binding and reinforcement. The binding and reinforcement, for the fly area of the drawers and for the collarette and shoulder seam of the undershirt, shall be fabricated from flat high temperature resistant aramid jersey. The cut width of the binding a
19、nd reinforcement shall be sufficient to provide for a finished width of ( 1/8) inch. 3.2.2 Elastic webbing. 3.2.2.1 Waistband. The elastic webbing, for the waistband, shall conform to JJ-W-155, Type I, Class 9, color unbleached. The cut lengths, for the various sizes, shall be compatible with 3.5 an
20、d Table II. 3.2.2.2 Stirrups. The elastic webbing, for the stirrups, shall conform to JJ-W-155, Type I, Class 3 color optional. The cut lengths, for the various sizes, shall be minimum 13 inches (see Figure 1). 3.2.3 Sewing thread. The sewing thread for the various seams and stitch types shall confo
21、rm to A-A-55217. The color shall approximate the basic cloth. 3Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-85040D 3.3 Design The CWU-43/P drawers and the CWU-44/P undershirts shall conform in appearance to figures 1 through 5, as applicab
22、le. 3.4 Construction The construction of the drawers and undershirts, as applicable, shall conform to Figures 1 through 12. 3.4.1 Patterns and cutting. The Government will furnish a complete set of patterns for drawers or undershirt, as applicable. The Government pattern shall be used to create the
23、contractors working patterns. Minor modifications to the working patterns are permitted to accommodate automatic equipment and a manufacturers production process. When the pattern is modified these modifications shall not alter the final dimensional, serviceability or appearance requirements cited i
24、n this document. The wales of the body and the cuffs shall be in length (vertical) direction. The wales of the mock turtle collarette shall be , in the direction, perpendicular to the seam. 3.4.1.1 List of pattern parts. The pattern parts required for the manufacture of the drawers and undershirts,
25、as applicable, are as follows: CWU-43/P Drawers -Type I: Piece Nomenclature Computer Nomenclature Cut # Size Front Fly Panel FRTFLYPNL 2 Each Back Crotch Panel BKCRTCHPNL 1 Each Leg Gusset LEG-GUSSET 1 All Cuf CUF 2 Al Leg Section LEGSECTION 2 Each CWU-44/P Undershirt Type II: Piece Nomenclature Com
26、puter Nomenclature Cut # Size Sleeve SLEEVE 2 Each Collarette COLLARETTE 1 All Cuf CUF 2 Al Body Section BODY 1 Each 3.4.2 Size marking. The component parts of the drawers or undershirts, as applicable, shall be marked or ticketed, by any commercial method, for the proper assembly of the drawers or
27、undershirts, as applicable. No metal fastening device or sewn-on ticket shall be used. The size markings shall be accomplished by the use of an ink pad numbering machine, rubber stamp, or pencil, provided the markings do not show through to the outside of the drawers or undershirts, as applicable, a
28、nd are not deleterious to the cloth. The markings, which are placed on the seam allowance, shall not be visible on the outer side. The adhesive type size marking tickets may be used for the size markings, provided they conform to 3.4.2.1. The assembled drawers or undershirts, as applicable, shall no
29、t contain any size marking tickets. 3.4.2.1 Adhesive size marking tickets. The adhesive size marking tickets shall be fabricated from paper with a thermo-activated adhesive applied on one side. The adhesive shall not discolor or damage the cloth and the adhesive mass shall not adhere to the cloth, u
30、pon removal of the tickets. The heat used to attach the thermo-activated adhesive tickets shall not stiffen, harden, scorch, or damage the cloth in any manner. 4Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-85040D 3.4.3 Seams and stitching.
31、 All the seams and stitching used in the fabrication of the drawers and the undershirts shall conform to Figures 1 through 12, as applicable. The seam and stitch types, specified in Figures 6 through 12, shall conform to ASTM D 6193. The width of the stitches and stitches per inch, for the various t
32、ypes of the stitching, shall conform to Table I. Unless otherwise specified, width of seam stitching shall be ()1/16 inch. TABLE I. Stitching characteristics Stitch type Width (Inches) Stitches per inch 101 - 12-16 301 - 8-10 402 7/32 12-16 407 8/32 14-18 503 5/32 12-16 504 5/32 14-18 605 9/32 14-18
33、 606 8/32 12-16 606 modified 8/32 12-16 3.4.3.1 Sewing. Each row of stitching shall be straight and parallel to the seam edge. The straightness of the stitching, in any row, shall be maintained within a tolerance of plus or minus 1/32 inch. The ends of the Stitch Type 301 stitching shall be backstit
34、ched, by overlapping on themselves, a minimum of inch. Thread breaks, skips, and run-off shall be overstitched with Stitch Type 301 stitching not less than one inch. The thread tension shall be maintained so that there shall not be any loose or tight stitching and the lock shall be embedded in the m
35、aterials sewn together. No seam or component shall be twisted, puckered, or pleated and no part of the drawers or the undershirts, as applicable, shall be caught in an unrelated operation or seam. All the thread ends, or threads beginning or terminating a row of stitching, shall be trimmed to a maxi
36、mum length of 3/8 inch. No raw or cut cloth edge shall be visible. All the seam edges shall be properly forced out and shall not contain any folds. 3.4.3.2 Bartacking. 3.4.3.2.1 Cuff seams. A inch bartack shall be positioned and centered across each cuff seam see (Figures 1 and 4). Each bartack shal
37、l contain a minimum of 14 stitches. 3.4.3.2.2 Stirrup attachments. Three inch bartacks may be used on the stirrup attachments in lieu of a crossboxstitch (see Figure 9). Each bartack shall contain a minimum of 26 stitches. 3.5 Finished dimensions. The dimensions, for the various sizes of the drawers
38、 and the undershirts, as applicable, shall conform to Table II, when determined as specified in 4.2 through 4.3 and Figures 13 and 14, as applicable. The variation in length between the left and right legs, or left and right sleeves shall not exceed inch in any drawers or undershirts, as applicable.
39、 5Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-85040D TABLE II. Drawers and undershirts dimensions in inches. Location X- Small Medium Large Extra Tolerances Smal Large Drawers a. Waist 10 12 14 16 18 1/2 b. Back Rise 14-1/2 15 15-1/2 16 1
40、6-1/2 1 c. Length 37-1/8 38-1/2 39-7/8 41-1/4 42-5/8 1 d. Width of 5-3/4 6-1/4 6-3/4 7-1/4 7-3/4 1/2 calf e. Length of 4 4-1/2 4-1/2 5 5 1/2 fly opening f. Length of 4-3/4 4-3/4 4-3/4 4-3/4 4-3/4 1/4 cuff g. Width of 4 4 4 4 4 1/4 cuff Undershirts h. Body 24-1/2 26 27-1/2 29-1/2 31 1 Length i. Body
41、13-1/2 15 16-1/2 18 19 1 Width j. Armhole 7-7/8 8-1/2 9-1/8 9-3/4 10-1/2 1/2 Opening k. Neck 7-1/2 7-1/2 7-1/2 7-3/4 7-3/4 1/2 Opening l. Sleeve 21 21-1/2 22 22-1/2 23 1 Inseam m. Shoulder 3-1/4 4 5 5-1/2 5-3/4 1/2 Width n. Length of 2-3/4 2-3/4 2-3/4 2-3/4 2-3/4 1/4 Cuff 6Provided by IHSNot for Res
42、aleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-85040D Location X- Small Medium Large Extra Tolerances Small o. Width of 2-3/4 2-3/4 2-3/4 3 3 1/4 the Cuff p. Length of 2-1/2 2-1/2 2-1/2 2-1/2 2-1/2 1/4 the mock turtleneck 3.6 Procedure of measurement. The drawers of
43、the undershirt, as applicable, to be measured shall be laid flat, face up, without tension, on a smooth, flat surface so that any creases or wrinkles shall not affect the measurement. 3.6.1 Drawers. The drawers shall be measured in accordance with Figure 13, as follows: a. Waist. Measure the width o
44、f the waist along the top edge of the relaxed elastic waistband. b. Back rise. Measure the back rise, along the seat, from the top of the waistband, at the back, to the bottom folded edge at the crotch. c. Length. Measure the length of each leg in a straight line, from the top edge of the waist to t
45、he bottom edge of the cuff along the outer side of the leg. d. Calf. Measure the width of each calf, at a point 10 inches up from the cuff attaching seam, from side fold to side fold. e. Fly opening. Measure the length of the fly opening f. Cuff length. Measure the length of each cuff, from the atta
46、ching seam to the end of the cuff. g. Cuff width. Measure the width of the cuff, at the unattached end, from side fold to side fold. 3.6.2 Undershirts. The undershirts shall be measured in accordance with Figure 14 as follows: h. Body length. Measure the body length on the front, from the collarette
47、 seam, at the shoulder, to the bottom edge of the undershirt i. Body width. Measure the body width, one inch below the armhole seam, from side fold to side fold, or from side seam to side seam, whichever is applicable. j. Armhole. Measure the width of the armhole, from the sleeve inseam to the fold
48、at the shoulder. k. Neck opening. Measure the width of the neck opening at the collarette attaching seam from the side fold to the side fold of the collarette. 7Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-85040D l. Sleeve inseam. Measure the length of each sleeve inseam, from the armhole seam to the bottom of the cuff. m. Shoulder width. Measure the distance, on each shoulder, from the collarette attaching seam to the armhole seam. n. Cuff length. M
