1、BRITISH STANDARD BS 5523:1977 ISO 3572:1976 Glossary of terms for Textiles Weaves Definitions of general terms and basic weaves UDC 677.074.162:001.4BS5523:1977 This British Standard, having been prepared under the directionof the Fibres, Yarns andFabrics Standards Committee, was published underthe
2、authority of the Executive Board on 31 October 1977 BSI 11-1999 The following BSI references relate to the work on this standard: Committee reference FBT/16 Draft for comment 74/35927 DC ISBN 0 580 09517 7 Cooperating organizations The Fibres, Yarns and Fabrics Standards Committee, under whose direc
3、tion this British Standard was prepared, consists of representatives from the following organizations: Association of Jute Spinners and Manufacturers British Man-made Fibres Federation* British Nonwoven Manufacturers Association British Railways Board British Textile Employers Association* Central C
4、ouncil of the Irish Linen Industry Ltd. Consumer Standards Advisory Committee of BSI Department of Industry International Wool Secretariat Knitting Industries Federation Manchester Chamber of Commerce and Industry Ministry of Defence* Narrow Fabrics Federation Retail Trading Standards Association In
5、c. Textile Institute* Warp Knitters Association Wool Textile Delegation* The organizations marked with an asterisk in the above list, together with the following, were directly represented on the committee entrusted with the preparation of this British Standard: Soap and Detergent Industries Associa
6、tion Society of Dyers and Colourists Textile Research Council Amendments issued since publication Amd. No. Date of issue CommentsBS5523:1977 BSI 11-1999 i Contents Page Cooperating organizations Inside front cover Foreword ii 1 Scope and field of application 1 2 General terms 1 3 Basic weaves 2 Figu
7、re 1 Plain weave 2 Figure 2a Weft-faced “Z” twill weave 2 Figure 2b Warp-faced “Z” twill weave 2 Figure 3a Weft-faced “S” twill weave 2 Figure 3b Warp-faced “S” twill weave 2 Figure 4a Sateen weave (weft faced) 2 Figure 4b Satin weave (warp faced) 2 Figure 5a Sateen weave (weft faced) 2 Figure 5b Sa
8、tin weave (warp faced) 2BS5523:1977 ii BSI 11-1999 Foreword This British Standard is identical withISO3572 “Textiles Weaves Definitions of general terms and basic weaves”. Terminology. The text of the International Standard has been accepted as suitable for publication, without deviation, as a Briti
9、sh Standard. Certain terminology is used, however, that is not strictly appropriate in a British Standard. Attention is therefore drawn to the following. Where the words “International Standard”, relating to this publication, appear, they should be interpreted as “British Standard”. Additional infor
10、mation. Attention is drawn toBS2861 “Methods for the presentation of a weave diagram and plans for drafting, denting and lifting” 1) , which deals with the recording of fabric weaves and is a useful companion to this standard. A British Standard does not purport to include all the necessary provisio
11、ns of a contract. Users of British Standards are responsible for their correct application. Compliance with a British Standard does not of itself confer immunity from legal obligations. Summary of pages This document comprises a front cover, an inside front cover, pages i and ii, pages1and 2 and a b
12、ack cover. This standard has been updated (see copyright date) and may have had amendments incorporated. This will be indicated in the amendment table on the inside front cover. 1) BS 2861 is part ofBS286166 “Methods for the analysis of woven fabric construction”.BS5523:1977 BSI 11-1999 1 1 Scope an
13、d field of application This International Standard gives definitions of general terms for describing weaves, and defines the three basic weaves. 2 General terms 2.1 woven fabric a fabric produced by interlacing (by weaving on a loom or a weaving machine) a set of warp threads and a set of weft threa
14、ds normally at right angles to each other 2.2 warp threads running in the direction of the length of a fabric as produced NOTEAn individual warp thread is known in English as an “end”. 2.3 weft; filling threads running in the direction of the width of a fabric as produced 2.4 pick a weft thread or a
15、 group of weft threads inserted in a fabric by one traverse of the picking mechanism between two consecutive beat-ups, i.e. during one cycle of weaving NOTEThe terms end and pick are often connected with a reference length, for example15picks per centimetre,15ends per centimetre. 2.5 face the surfac
16、e of a fabric that is intended to be seen NOTEIf both surfaces of a fabric are intended to be seen, either can be regarded as the face. 2.6 back the surface of a fabric opposite to the face 2.7 interlacing the crossing of warp and weft threads over and under each other 2.8 weave the pattern of inter
17、lacing of warp and weft in a woven fabric NOTEThere are three basic weaves, plain, twill and sateen (see clause3). 2.9 weave repeat the smallest number of warp and weft threads required for the pattern of a weave 2.10 first warp thread the first warp thread on the left in a weave repeat 2.11 first w
18、eft thread the bottom weft thread in a weave repeat 2.12 float a length of thread between adjacent interlacings NOTEThe length of a float is defined by the number of warp threads over which a weft thread goes, or the number of weft threads over which a warp thread goes, as relevant. 2.13 stitch; bin
19、der; binding point an interlacing whose purpose is: a) to bind long floats in a single structure, or b) to bind together different layers, or c) to bind backing threads to the face weave in a multiple structure. 2.14 twill line a diagonal line formed by the weave NOTEThe letter S or Z (as appropriat
20、e) may be used to designate the direction of the slope of the twill line. 2.15 design paper paper having vertical and horizontal ruled lines that are suitable for illustrating weaves and designs NOTEUsually each space between vertical lines represents one warp thread, and each space between horizont
21、al lines represents one weft thread. The design paper commonly used has equally spaced fine ruling, with heavy overruling in blocks of convenient size. 2.16 weave diagram the representation of the interlacing of a weave on design paper NOTEAn end lifted over a pick is usually illustrated by insertin
22、g a symbol in a small rectangle of the design paper, i.e. such a mark indicates “warp up” and an unfilled square indicates “weft up”.BS5523:1977 2 BSI 11-1999 2.17 weave cross-section diagram a drawing showing the interlacing of one warp or weft thread as seen from the side of the fabric Examples: N
23、OTEWhen used, the cross-section in the warp direction shall be shown on the left-hand side and the cross-section in the weft direction on the bottom of the weave diagram. Relevant warp or weft threads must be marked or numbered. The face of the fabric shall be shown on the left of the warpwise cross
24、-section and on the top of the weftwise cross-section. 2.18 step number; move number the number of picks by which a warp thread interlacing in a weave moves relative to the preceding warp thread 2.19 drafting plan a plan indicating the order in which warp yarns are drawn through the eyes of the heal
25、ds on the heald shafts 2.20 lifting plan a plan indicating the order of lifting heald shafts on successive picks in order to weave a pattern 3 Basic weaves There are three basic weaves, namely: plain weave, twill weave, and sateen weave, defined as follows. 3.1 plain weave: A weave in which each wef
26、t thread passes alternately over and under a warp thread, and each warp thread passes alternately over and under a weft thread. 3.2 twill weave: A weave having a weave repeat of at least three weft threads and which produces twill lines. 3.3 sateen weave: A weave having a weave repeat of at least fi
27、ve weft threads and five warp threads in which each end interlaces once only and the step number is greater than one. It should be noted that the number of threads in a weave repeat and the step number may not have a common divisor. Cross-section Cross-section Warpwise Weftwise Figure 1 Plain weave
28、Figure 2a Weft-faced “Z” twill weave Figure 2b Warp-faced “Z” twill weave Figure 3a Weft-faced “S” twill weave Figure 3b Warp-faced “S” twill weave Figure 4a Sateen weave (weft faced) Figure 4b Satin weave (warp faced) Figure 5a Sateen weave (weft faced) Figure 5b Satin weave (warp faced)blankBS 552
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